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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC 1/8th Scale Buggies >> RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine
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RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/18/2007 5:52:10 PM   
Jerseyboy



Posts: 209
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: SA Buggy Racer, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline 		Yes the carbs seems to get hot on some of them I have tried the OS carb and the OS carb is the winning ticket. The OS carb is well insulated from heat and this makes the Go unbelievely stable. Idle constant, constant temps excellent run time.
Lifespan is not a problem on the Go.
With Go cabs you can get irratic idle if the bottom end is too lean. My findings is that the newer version carb still needs to be improved as heat gets this carbs hot and you tend to have idling hovering high and sometimes you can get a lean bog.
With the OS carbs the Go is a bullet.
Love my Go.

(in reply to nigrugt)
       Post #: 76

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/19/2007 12:19:17 AM   
nigrugt


 

Posts: 16
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Victoria Gozo, MALTA
Status: offline 		Another question, under the head there are 3 washers, If I remove two or one of them, will I get more power ? Also will the engine be stable if I take them off??

(in reply to Jerseyboy)
       Post #: 77

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/21/2007 6:40:09 AM   
satoch


 

Posts: 21
Joined: 9/19/2006
From: , IL, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Jerseyboy

With Go cabs you can get irratic idle if the bottom end is too lean. My findings is that the newer version carb still needs to be improved as heat gets this carbs hot and you tend to have idling hovering high and sometimes you can get a lean bog.


Interesting, I don't this problem with the new carb. Then again I don't set the low needle too lean.

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Losi 8 Pro buggy w/Go Tech 5 port .21

(in reply to Jerseyboy)
       Post #: 78

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/21/2007 7:33:36 AM   
Jerseyboy



Posts: 209
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: SA Buggy Racer, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: satoch

quote:

ORIGINAL: Jerseyboy

With Go cabs you can get irratic idle if the bottom end is too lean. My findings is that the newer version carb still needs to be improved as heat gets this carbs hot and you tend to have idling hovering high and sometimes you can get a lean bog.


Interesting, I don't this problem with the new carb. Then again I don't set the low needle too lean.


Quite correct satoch, the Go engine likes to be on the rich side for the bottom end screw. If you lean it out as per normal it lean bogs after 5 min of hard running.

(in reply to satoch)
       Post #: 79

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/22/2007 10:19:14 AM   
JamieKerr



Posts: 414
Joined: 9/25/2006
From: chichester, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Hi there i just recieved my hyper 8 pro esterday got it set up need to run my GO .21 7 PORT ENGINE there wasn't a run in procedure in the go manual?? which i thought was strange i found a website that said 10!!!!! tanks through what procedure did you use.

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       Post #: 80

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/22/2007 12:02:26 PM   
Jerseyboy



Posts: 209
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: SA Buggy Racer, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline 		The engine is abit of a b!tch to run in. If you follow this you will be on the nose.




Important information for the operation of your new GO Technology engine.

- Go engines are made to extremely tight tolerances. If you turn over the engine, it will feel as if the piston gets stuck in the liner.

- GO engines are high performance racing engines, and beginners should seek the assistance of an experienced modeler or dealer in the running-in of the engine.


Running-in procedure
- Take note of the factory needle settings and do not adjust until after about 1 litre of fuel has been run through the engine.

- Pre-heat the engine with a hairdryer to about 60-80 degree C.

- Prime the carb with fuel

- Make sure that the engine is at idle.

- Start the engine with a start-box and leave the glow warmer on for about 30sec.

- Let the engine idle for 1 tank. If the engine sounds like it wants to die, then pinch the fuel line briefly. This will increase the idle RPM

- Do not REV the engine for the first 3 tanks

- After each tank of fuel, let the engine cool down with the piston at BDC.

- Repeat the whole process for a total of 3 tanks of fuel.

- For the remainder of the fuel (about 1.5litres) start to drive the car around a track.

- Do not blip the throttle, but use smooth acceleration only briefly letting the engine be at full RPM.

- Run the engine at about 100-110 deg. Failing to run at these temperatures, will not allow the engine to run-in properly. Full run in is complete after 3 litres of fuel.

- After the first 9 litres of fuel, we suggest to change the conrod.



General Information
Due to the tight production tolerances you might find that your engine temperature rises above 145 deg C. Start by opening the LSN by ¼ turn and then the HSN by ¼ turn.

If you find that after running continuously for more than 15 min the pull away power (bottom end) seems to bog down, then there may a slight crank rub. Occasionally engines develop crank rub due to the production process. It can be seen by fine lines on the crank. This condition is easily cured by removing the crank and polishing the crank between the bearings with 400 grit water paper, used dry, and then 1000 grit water paper (used dry). Ask your dealer to assist if you are unsure. Alternatively, ask your dealer to send the engine to the importer where we will do the crank polish free of charge.



A well tuned GO engine will have power equivalent to engines that are twice the price and longevity to meet.




(in reply to JamieKerr)
       Post #: 81

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/26/2007 1:30:06 AM   
satoch


 

Posts: 21
Joined: 9/19/2006
From: , IL, USA
Status: offline 		Jerseyboy, I gotta say that I find your comment stating the Go Tech engine "is a bit of a b!tch to break in" is more than a little bit of an over statement. It's no different than any other engine.

By the way, what's the race scene like there?

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Losi 8 Pro buggy w/Go Tech 5 port .21

(in reply to Jerseyboy)
       Post #: 82

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/26/2007 2:07:35 AM   
rc_dude1



Posts: 79
Joined: 1/29/2007
From: ,, CA, USA
Status: offline 		"- After the first 9 litres of fuel, we suggest to change the conrod. "

LOL, thats only a little bit over 2 gallons. I sense a problem here....

(in reply to satoch)
       Post #: 83

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/26/2007 2:36:05 AM   
JJJEEEFFFFFF


 

Posts: 738
Joined: 1/22/2005
From: brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		That would be the same sugestion that most people who race would give to you. most wear to the rod on any engine happens during break in. so if you want a motor to last forever you replace the rod early so its not banging away on the crank at 40000rpm from day one.

I cant comment on how long these engines last, but the wear on the parts so far is the same or less compared to other racing engines i've had. My only complaint is with the erratic idle i get with the old style carb that i have. At least in my case this is not due to running lean on the bottom as it will do it also when running real rich as well and actually stop if you run it to lean. This has never affect me in a race though and does not happen while running the v-spec carb on it.

(in reply to rc_dude1)
       Post #: 84

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/26/2007 6:32:26 AM   
Jerseyboy



Posts: 209
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: SA Buggy Racer, SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: satoch

Jerseyboy, I gotta say that I find your comment stating the Go Tech engine "is a bit of a b!tch to break in" is more than a little bit of an over statement. It's no different than any other engine.

By the way, what's the race scene like there?



Satoch Hi. The race scene here is quite hectic. We have one race meeting a month and a nationals every 2 to 3 months in various parts of the country. We really have some good drivers over here. Last worlds some of our drivers competed. It wasnt our best ranked drivers. Maybe if some of you guys are interested you can come rcae the African Cup. A race we have once a year and invite any international drivers to compete. We hoping to see it grow to quite a big event one day.

About the breakin. Not many engine requires a heatgun up til tank 10 to get started. so for me its a biggy.

rc_dude1: You dont have to change the rod, all I can say is its the first time Ive done it and I could notice the difference.

The running in procedure is what we give to all who purchase the engine for the first time.

(in reply to satoch)
       Post #: 85

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/26/2007 10:30:10 PM   
JamieKerr



Posts: 414
Joined: 9/25/2006
From: chichester, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Hi there i have a GO .21 7 PORT in my new hyper 8 pro kit my lhs is running it it tonight for me when the running process is done, when i first really use it what speed shall i use slowly increasing speed after each tank or just whatever speed needed thx quick reply will be thankfull

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RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/26/2007 10:37:10 PM   
jonnymac


 

Posts: 2020
Joined: 1/3/2003
From: leicester, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		If the initial run in has been done then just keep it slighly (not very) rich and drive it fairly normaly. Avoid long periods of sustained wide open throttle and Still let it cool completely between tanks at bottom dead centre for a while. After 1/2 a gallon or so you should be ok to tune it completely although be sure you dont lean it too much (your better off it being slightly rich if your not too experienced). It is wise after use to always return it to BDC and use after-run oil. if you always empty the tank completly you can get away without oil but if there is any fuel at all in the crankcase it will draw in moisture so AR oil is a good idea.

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(in reply to JamieKerr)
       Post #: 87

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 2/26/2007 10:38:50 PM   
JamieKerr



Posts: 414
Joined: 9/25/2006
From: chichester, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		ok then thanks alot that has helped me alot cheers


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       Post #: 88

RE: Official Thread for the Go 21 Engine - 3/1/2007 2:49:05 AM   
russj


 

Posts: 19
Joined: 1/28/2007
From: camp verde, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Jerseyboy has all of his information down, Any engine NovaRossi for example will tell you to replace the rod after 3-4 gallons which is when those engines are fully broken in. The good thing about the Go is the Rod is much cheaper. I personally know of a Go engine in the hands of a pro driver that put 6 gallons thru his engine, pinched it and then put another 2 gallons thru the engine and ran the original connecting rod the whole time.

Like was stated its best to run the engine on the rich side and keep the temps in the 220-230f range. That is where the engine likes to run and also gets good mileage at that temp. If you try to run the engine too hard too soon it will run very hot because of the tight metal pinch.

This weekend we ran quite a few Go engines at the Nitro Challenege in Az. we pushed the engines very hard and they performed flawlessly. There wasn't a single GO powered driver that was underpowered or in need of more horsepower. Watching the engines run with the rest out there It was obvious that they were as fast as any engine on the market.