Posts: 406
Joined: 8/6/2005 From: kaneohe,
HI, USA Status: offline
That is probably the best set up yet in a classic Pattern plane. I love the plug in and adj. wings and stab. I defifinately will have to do that!! Nice organized set up!
Posts: 338
Joined: 1/13/2005 From: Columbus,
OH, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Bootalini
For those wondering, I've not completely abandoned my project. Work and other competing interests have made it difficult. The radio installation and retract rigging is pretty much done and I'll be taking everything out soon so I can continue with applying the finish. I anticipate good progress between now and the end of the X-Mas holiday.
As an aside, any of you following the indoor pattern F3P stuff?.....it looks plenty challenging and fun. I just purchased a 'Clik' pattern foamy and will be flying this winter with the indoor crowd here in Ottawa.
Jeff
Nice installation on your Aurora. Yup, the Clik is one of the hot F3P planes at the moment.
Posts: 146
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: online
Folks, an update on the finishing phase as I continue to whittle away at this fun project.
I'm really enjoying working with the Polycrylic finish as described earlier. The fuselage will soon be ready for paint and the process has been rather painless....say as compared to the cloth/resin method which I often employed in the past. A few things learned on my part using the Polycrylic: -don't sand until you've applied at least 4 coats (apply it un-cut right out of the can) -wet sanding is a must. Dry sanding clogs the paper rather quickly. I'm using #320 paper and it's dead easy with the Polycrylic medium breaking down nicely and not clogging the paper at all. -I'll likely need only 1 or 2 more final coats and I'll be left with a super smooth surface to prime. I'll likely use #400 or finer for the final wet sanding.
So far, I'm absolutely impressed...and sold on this finishing method, for an electric anyway. I'm wondering about the effect that nitro might have on such a finish even though the finish will be sealed with automotive clear-coat.??
Posts: 146
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: online
Dave, I'm glad to hear that someone is picking up useful tidbits from my thread.
DM, you're indeed correct about my holiday time having evaporated. In all fairness though, I did channel some time to finish my Clik (photo attached) which is now ready to fly. It should be a real blast as I hear it's an exceptional flyer.
Ref the Aurora, I'm guessing no more than 10 hours total work until she's ready for primer. Seeing as I can't spray the automotive clear coat until spring when the warm weather returns, there's no hurry really.
Posts: 1219
Joined: 8/28/2006 From: Roswell,
GA, USA Status: online
considering the results for the 10 hrs of work it is well worth it (in my opinion) to use the polycrylic and 3/4 oz cloth. can't weait to see yours primered.
Posts: 146
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: online
Well, I'm back at it after focusing mostly on the indoor pattern (F3P) stuff. F3P is harder than it looks but it's sure a lot of fun! I recommend it for those of you out there looking for a challenge, but be forewarned, it's humbling....the walls aproach quickly.
Back to the Aurora. I've sanded the entire airplane and for the most part, it's ready for one last coat of Poly and then a final wet sand. The one exception is the front of the fuselage where I've yet to fit the canopy. That's next and in preparation, I just airbrushed the cockpit interior a medium grey. I prefer grey over black. Next will be gluing the canopy on.
Posts: 146
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: online
The canopy is now permanently in place. I'll be applying filler next and will hopefully be able to acheive a perfect blend with the fuselage.
As you can see from the photos, I used my Dremel to cut a groove into the fuse so that the canopy could be countersunk. That's pretty much required on the Aurora given the way the canopy meets the fuselage. In 8178's Blue Angel build, he didn't have to do that given the angles that the canopy intersect the fuse at. On the Aurora, for much of the canopy, the transition from fuselage to canopy is pretty much along the same line...if that makes any sense.
Anyhow, I spent a good 30 minutes getting the groove just right. I used 15 minute epoxy to apply the canopy and it turned out pretty good. I should be able to acheive a somewhat seamless blend with minimal work. I've applied extra thick masking tape to the canopy to protect it from the next step which involves filling and sanding.
Posts: 146
Joined: 9/5/2006 From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA Status: online
Nothing like being reminded of how long it's been since my last post. It shamed me into doing some work today and after a few hours this afternoon, I'm very close to being ready for primer. I only have to re-sand 2 small spots that need touching up with one last coat of Poly.
It's now homework time given that I'm unfamiliar with the water-based paint system that I plan to try. Because I plan to airbrush all lettering on the plane, I also have to produce templates for lettering the wings and fuselage. I've attached a scan of the 'Aurora' logo from the MK plans. I'll use Photoshop to manipulate to the 2 different sizes required. I'd like to use the same font for my name, MAAC #, JR and Hyperion logos, etc.
Can anybody help with identifying the font in the attachment so I can make my own logos? I've searched the font catalogues within Microsoft Word and Powerpoint and I can't seem to fing anything close.
Jeff
< Message edited by Bootalini -- 5/19/2008 2:24:01 AM >
Posts: 5178
Joined: 7/21/2005 From: Greensboro,
NC, USA Status: offline
Good to see you back at it.
Google "free fonts" and you will find several sites that let you download fonts. You have to install them into Windows. You should find one very close.
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RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power - 
