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Hi, Philip. I used music wire and brass tubing for the turnbuckles.I cut a small peice of tubing and turned the ends down by rolling them on a dremel wheel. Then I put the music wire through, and bent the ends round with round nosed pliers. I ran a little thin CA glue down the ends of the tubes to hold them in place. As for the controls, I decided not to make them operational. At this small of a scale, I was afraid they might bind or interfeer with the real controls. When I finish this project, I want to build a 1/4 or 1/3 scale. Then I can make a whole bunch of stuff work. Maybe Steve
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P.S. The rigging for the rudder goes through some small holes in a peice of balsa, mounted behind the pilots seat. I pulled them tight, and held them in place with toothpicks and medium CA. The elevator rigging is attached to springs under the seat. The wires holding the springs rotate with the stick.
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Here's a shot of what I have finished so far. the landing gear and tail section are ready to cover and paint. I made the stab adjustable, like the full scale. The tail post has an outer tube and an inner rod. The inner rod ,on the full scale, is threaded with a sprocket and chain. The ends of the chain are connected to cables which wrap around a wheel just to the lower left side of the pilots seat. By turning the wheel, the sprocket would move the inner rod up or down as needed, so the pilot could adjust the trim for chainging weight.(useing fuel, dropping bombs, etc) The stab pivoted at the spar, with the trailimg edge moving up or down. The rigging attatched to the trailing edge is also attached to the inner rod, so it moves up and down with the trailing edge. Since I couldn't make a chain that small, I cheated. I put a 4-40 socket head bolt in the bottom of the post,held in place with small rings soldered above and below the head. Teh bolt is threaded into the inner rod. Turning the bolt moves the inner rod from 0 deg to + 5 deg.
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Here's the rest of the tial feathers. The front spar will pivot with a music wire through a carbon fiber bushing in the fuse. The trailing edge will be joined with music wire and will fit through the adjusting bracket on the tail post. Control for the elevators will be done with double control horns conected to a split push rod. The pictures are of the bottom, to show the scale conection points. Hinges are scale and are made of brass strips.
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The landing gear is built the same way as the full scale. I used clear hickory, wrapped with aluminum, and riveted with brass tubing. The cross bars have 2-56 threaded rod epoxied into the ends, and bolt through the legs. The bottom fairing is solid and is attached to the front and rear cross bars. the top fairing is hinged along the leading edge, and is not attached to the rear bar. As the axle moves up, stretching the bungee cords, the top fairing moves up with it. Gravity and wind hold it in place when airborne. I made the top fairing/hinge by bending the aluminum around the wire hinge pin. I then marked both pieces and cut out alternate spaces with a dremel cutoff wheel. The bungee cord in the pictures will be replaced with a larger diameter cord, after painting.
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Here's a couple of shots of the tank. I used the same method to find the shape for decking as Abufletcher does. I make a pattern out of card stock and cut and adjust it until I have a good fit. Then I import it into model Cad, and add the details. I print that drawing out as a mirror image, tape it to the back of my aluminum sheet, and punched the rivets with a piece of music wire, rounded on the end. Then I bend the parts and epoxy them to the sheeting.
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The radiator is made with a plywood back plate. On that i made two balsa boxes the shape of the cores. I put a slightly smaller piece of 1/64 ply on the sides to match th shape of the full size. I got some brass mesh foil at a craft store.and inset it into the boxes to complete the effect of leaded cores. The bottom and top are made of balsa. The center top cover is hinged aluminum,as on the full scale. It is held closed by the toe engine cowling. After shaping the cover, I cut out the center of the top balsa block and added the brass cap. The shutters are made of aluminum strips. I cut a notch in each end of each strip. then I made brass caps for the ends by cutting a slot in pieces of 1/16 tubing, and sliding them over the slots in the shutters. This forms a small cavity to recieve the brass pin which holds them in the aluminum frame.I put the shutter in place, fill the cavity with epoxy in a small syringe, and insert the brass pins. The bracket on the sides are 1/64 Ply and the !QUOT!rivets!QUOT! are small pins. The velocity stack for the carb air intake is carved balsa. Total Pieces? 721!
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Well, folks, that brings the project up to date. I've just about finished setting up my new shop, and I'm ready to get started on the engine compartment. I'm using a RCV .91 on a Dubro isolation mount. It worked out great in the test plane. BTW if anyone wants a copy of the rad drawings, let me know and I'll e-mail you a copy. Steve
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I'm getting ready for our club meeting, so I put everything together for show and tell.We have several scale guys, and it's always good to get feedback up close. I forgot to mention that I made an operational Cooper Bomb Rack. Four 20 pounders. Bombs away! Steve
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Don, you're right. A few words about the rack are in order. I had read that some SE5as were equipped with four 20# Cooper bombs. So I thought, Great. I'll add bombs. Not so fast! I found pics of bomb release handles. I found pics of the mounting tabs under the fuse. I found pics of bombs. But no bomb racks. Then Mark Miller posted his
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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale - 
