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I'm just about finished with the engine compartment. I decided to put the servos up front for the throttle and bomb drop.I put a baffle behind the engine, slanted down to the scale baffle. This should help direct the air flow down and out. It also forms a compartment for the servos. I put the on off switch,the charge jack,and the remote glow plug conection in the radio compartment behind the cockpit. I still have to find out what size tank to use. It shouldn't take too much for a 9 min flight. Steve
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Not a whole lot of time for building, between the move and the holidays. I did finish the engine compartment, and started on the bottom panels. I made the parts from aluminum and attached the baffles with straight pin rivets. Steve
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I finished a couple of cockpit details. The trigger cables for the Vickers & Lewis guns are black phone wire, attached to the triggers with 1/16 aluminum tubing. The copper "tubing" for the synchronizing gear is 14 gage copper wire. The bomb release and shutter lever are patterned from pics of the French #3 cockpit. Now all that's left are the magneto, and mag switches, and the cockpit will be finished.
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Progress has been slow lately. I'm still waiting for accurate three views of the wings. I'm ready for a building binge Since I had to move two servos to the area in front of the tank, I lost some of the room needed for fuel. The largest pre-made tank I could fit in was only six oz. Not enough for the .91 RCV. So I made a metal clunk tank to fit the space inside the scale tank. It came out to a little over 9 oz. That should be plenty for a competition flight. Now, all I have to do is make the catch tank for the crank case breather, and the enging comp. will be finished. Hopefully by then I'll have the drawings I need to start on the wings. Steve
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I got the new three views from WWI Aero. Very detailed, and the wings match my photos. So, I've redrawn my wing plans, and am back in business. I am using Carbon fiber tubes for spars,carbon fiber trailing edge, and 1/8" dowel for leading edgd. I stack the 1/16 balsa for the ribs, drill for the spars and leading edge, and cut them with a band saw, notching out for the trailing edge. With this method, the wings are straight, strong and light.The end of the rear spar fits into a hole about 1" in a hard balsa extension for hingeing the aileron. Tips are 3/32 plt. cap strips are 1/33 balsa. The wide ribs are actually two ribs sheated with 1/32 Balsa.
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I finished up the top wing this morning. The cabane is sheeted with two layers of 1/64 ply. The sections are joined with 1/8 music wire, bent to 5deg. for dihedral. The brackets on the bottom go around, and are soldered to the brass spars. Steve
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Steve :
Ive been looking at your build and it is absolutly amazing, I cant think of words that will do it justice. When you posted on my build thread, I think you had me confused with someone else but Im glad you did because I wouldnt have found your thread.
I am going to enjoy seeing how you do this stuff.
I thought my bomb racks looked great until I seen yours. I just cant believe them and everything else too. Your Fuselage detail is incredible.
I think I know how we might have met, It might have been one of my questions I post once in a while. When ever I cant figure something out Ill post it out where everyone see's it.
I hope you dont mind if I post a link on my thread to yours so my other friends can see your build. They would like to see it too Im sure.
SEEYA, TIM
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Hi, Tim. Thanks . If you go to the R/C Scale forum, You'll find a more in depth thread on the build. There's a lot more interest in the R/C side. Today I did the " wing tank". The leading edge of the cabane is a tank on the full size. It's divided so that about two thirds holds gas, and one third is the expansion tank for the radiator. I simulated this by punching " rivets" into a peice of .005 soft aluminum, and laminating it to the sheeting with contact cement. I'll post a thread on how to do the rivets under R/C Scale How to's. Steve
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Joined: 11/20/2005 From: Houston,
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Man, that looks great. Its probably just the picture but is your center section sheeting going to show ? Because it looks like you stained it.
I wish I had tried putting some sheet metal on my plane but I will on the next.
Ill check out the R/C Forum, I thought we were in it here. See what I did to find this was I did a search for SE5a and then looked for your avatar.
Im going to learn a lot from you !!
Ive learned quite a bit from the guys on my build thread. See my plane is my first attempt at building something scale and after seeing other planes and especially yours I realize that mine is more like simiscale. I think I have descovered that there really isnt no end, You can go for about like mine or you can really go for it and build like yours and some other guys Ive seen. And even then I bet you guys finnaly say, "OK thats enough".
What Forum are we in here ? Is it "Radios, Batteries, Clubhouse and more >> Control Line" ?
Im not to great at navigating these forums.
SEEYA, TIM
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The sheeting is two layers of 1/64 ply. It's just that color to start with. After the fabric goes on, the rest of the ply gets it's own peice of aluminum. The nice thing about this hobby is you can do just as much as YOU want. No more ,No less! It's all good. And you're right about reaching a point where "That's good enough!" I mean, just look at this shot. There's "Details dripping off on the grass! You gotta stop somewhere Steve
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Joined: 11/20/2005 From: Houston,
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Steve :
In that picture it shows the wire, cable, or rod what ever it is that goes to the trigger of the machinegun. Do you have a clearer picture of that ? I dont fully understand how the cable or what ever it is pulls the trigger or attaches to the trigger.
Yes and that picture just flat looks like a real plane.
SEEYA, TIM
< Message edited by timfarrar -- 1/30/2007 12:46:04 AM >
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Build light to fly, not strong to crash. http://home.earthlink.net/~timothyfarrar/index.html