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Posts: 951
Joined: 4/8/2003 From: tomball,
TX, USA Status: offline
One of the changes from the beta kits will include working out a stab support system. I want to provide a setup that will work with the standard gator stab tube and adjuster assembly. This assembly also would allow the builder to set the height of the stab by selecting their favorite set of holes to run the tube and adjuster rod through.
The tabs you see here will slot into the top and bottom fusebox pieces when I get the rest of the changes made.
I am still working on trying to make an anhedral assembly that can be locked into place accurately during construction.....this of course presents all sorts of issues and in the end, the anhedral setup/kit may only be available as a solid stab setup. Airfoiled cutouts would be provided on the fuse sides and doublers if this becomes the anhedral reality.
-Mark
< Message edited by flyintexan -- 11/25/2006 3:51:06 AM >
Posts: 951
Joined: 4/8/2003 From: tomball,
TX, USA Status: offline
Looking for some help here.....I don't have a YS on hand in my shop right now....I am looking for the preferred linkage setup when connecting a servo to the YS throttle barrel arm. I have shown the arm upward in this model, but would it be better if rotated down? In the up position, the throttle cable will exit very close to the iso mount. If rotated down it would exit very low on the firewall. I could provide a pilot hole on the firewall for the throttle cable if I could figure this out correctly.
Posts: 517
Joined: 10/17/2003 From: DHanis,
TX, USA Status: offline
Mark,
I set up my throttle exactly the same way. Also, you are correct, only one fuel line coming through for a DZ. The other is just a vent. Love the look of the new plane.
Posts: 951
Joined: 4/8/2003 From: tomball,
TX, USA Status: offline
Thank you Arch!
I actually got a good deal of little things done over this holiday weekend.
The kits will be available in a flat stab or the anhedral versions. My prototype has balanced just right with a 5cell Nimh right behind the firewall and servos in the stabs. After considering this, I moved the wing back about 5/8" which involved moving a former and all its interlocking structure. The builder should still be able to run servos in the stab without a serious balance issue. I will also include some lite ply crossbars marked for each rear former which will have lasered holes with proper spacing for DEPS tubing. The height they are set at will be up to the builder since the stab can be placed at several different heights (up to the builder). My prototype has small ears that carry my servo wires back to the stabs. I replaced these with a large loop in the top of each former to house a paper tube. This will make servo wire install and removal much easier. I shaved some ply from most of the fusebox pieces. This should save about 1-1/2oz. from the basic lite ply structure. I also removed a cross piece just in front of the canopy. This will allow very good access to the front inside section of the fuse. There is still a former close by located at the back of the gear plate. I added pilot holes for the landing gear as well.
There will be quite a few useful little laser cut parts that aided my installation of the servos, wing adjusters, tank, wing tube donuts, motor mount donut, oval washers (wing studs), various size ply washers for those little spacing jobs, etc., etc. I have been asked to make these parts available as a separate package for use on any pattern kit or arf. I will do so as soon as I get the kit layout completed.
Posts: 951
Joined: 4/8/2003 From: tomball,
TX, USA Status: offline
I am in need of more help.... ...my wife would surely agree...
I have a 16oz tettra modeled fairly accurately, but I would like to test fit a 20oz tettra as well without waiting a couple days to ship one in....can anyone out there with a 20oz tank fill in the blanks ("A", "B", "C" for me? The tank support former at the stopper for the 16oz will unfortunately set nearly in line with the front wing studs (shown in blue - aluminum hex bolts to be included in the kit)....making the process of getting the wing nuts on and off most unpleasant. I thought about including a second tank support former that would sit further back and clear the wing attachment nuts. I think this will be the way to go...especially if the width and height of the 20oz is the same as the 16oz...hoping that just the length is different.
I have also modeled a set of optional crossbars that would support a deps system if that is chosen over two stab servos. These braces are laid out such that if placed on the face of each former, the bend of the deps rods will be a continuous, constant radius all the way to the elevator horn. The height placement of these would be up to the builder so servo height, stab height can all be accomodated.
This whole process albeit slow, I think will be well worth the wait. All these items are things I would like to have in a kit if I were to build another Pentathlon for myself. I am actually getting close to finishing the modeling part of the process. After that comes the laser layout work....and once that is complete, we all start building.
Any help on the tank dimensions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again, mark
< Message edited by flyintexan -- 11/29/2006 3:04:57 AM >
Posts: 951
Joined: 4/8/2003 From: tomball,
TX, USA Status: offline
Many thanks for the tank dimensions....I received PM's and a phone call! I think the best way to go will be to accomodate a 20oz. tank.
With this setup, the front support former for the stopper will be ahead of the front wing studs. I also added (colored in red) a high tech tank strapping device. It will be a piece of 3/8" thick balsa cut to sit under the tank and allow a velcrostrap to go through and around the top of the tank. I also included a cutout to steal some support from the wing tube sleeve. The tank will sit on the stopper and the wing tube (I use a piece of wing saddle tape where the tank rests on the wing tube sleeve). There will be two large half donuts (to be lightened later) cut to fit the wing tube sleeve, which will prevent side to side movement of the tank.
Posts: 951
Joined: 4/8/2003 From: tomball,
TX, USA Status: offline
I've actually been working (a bit) on the model and now just starting on the new laser layout....
I got a call from one of the two other prototype Pentathlon builders....it looks as though it may end up being electric powered....so I did a quick firewall for that particular setup. After I get the new laser layout completed, I would like to properly design in firewalls for an outrunner and perhaps a hacker that would tab into the framework just like the IC version. The stock firewall could be lightened out or cut to help hold the front end of the battery packs....??? Anyway, I will not forget the E-flyers...just need a little more time.
Posts: 594
Joined: 1/25/2002 From: Lubbock, TX, USA Status: offline
Hey Mark looking good.
Am already missing pattern season. 3" snow yesterday so Lubbock is temporarily shut down for flying (I'm not that diehard
Good to see other kits/planes available.
On our YS's here in Lubbock we all turn the throttle arm 180 degrees so the linkage will easily clear a hyde mount. Is easy to fix with a long drill bit though.
Ed
< Message edited by Divesplat -- 12/1/2006 10:50:47 AM >
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pattern Flying >> RE: Pentathlon 
RE: Pentathlon - 
...my wife would surely agree... 
for me? The tank support former at the stopper for the 16oz will unfortunately set nearly in line with the front wing studs (shown in blue - aluminum hex bolts to be included in the kit)....making the process of getting the wing nuts on and off most unpleasant. I thought about including a second tank support former that would sit further back and clear the wing attachment nuts. I think this will be the way to go...especially if the width and height of the 20oz is the same as the 16oz...hoping that just the length is different. 
