Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread  
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread
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Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/19/2006 1:27:49 AM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Having followed a few other build threads at some other RC related sites, I couldn't resist getting my hands on the Dragonus II Elite kit.

The quoted street price for the Dragonus II Elite Standard kit is about $325. The price I paid was very close to this so I want to make certain folks know I'm not a hired gun and am proceeding with this build in as objective a manner as possible. Other than being a satisified customer, I have no other affiliation with RC-Tek and/or RCer International, the manufacturer of the Dragonus helicopter.

Some highlights of the kit:

  • 3500Kv motor and RC-Expert 35A ESC
  • Wooden & CF 325mm Main Blades
  • Fully CNC Aluminum Head & Tail
  • Silver CF Frame
  • Fiberglass Canopy
  • Detailed Instructions

Upon opening the box I was presented with a bunch of parts bags. Some may opt for ARF or RTF kits, but being the tinkerer that I am I had a big smile on face. This kit is going to take a solid 6 to 8 hours to build. As every fairly experienced RC Heli addict knows, you must break down any pre-built kits and apply loctite, otherwise stuff (typically the most critical of parts) is prone to fly off at the worst of times. This build is going to be very reminencent of my first T-Rex 450X V2 build, minus the pitfalls of the plastic parts.

Head Parts


Tail Parts & Main Gear


Frame Parts


Close Up of Frame


The Landing Gear


The Boom


Boom Supports, fin, balls, links, etc


Main Blade holder


The included instructions are clear and concise. Areas requiring loctite are marked and it differentiates between thread and sealant where appropriate. Each section corresponds to a parts bag, as noted at the top of each page.

Manual Cover


Assembly Guide


Head Assembly Example


Clearly marked when to use thread locker and when to use sealant


ooohhh... final frame assembly


The CNC parts are very nicely done. Once I progress into the build I think my macro lens is going to do them justice.

I'm a little disappointed in the quality of the canopy. There is already a crack on one of the canopy mounts that I plan to apply some CA to. The kit comes with no decals so it's left up to the builder to decide what to do color scheme wise. The caonopy molding isn't the most impressive and mine appears to be a bit off-center. It may level out once mounted so we'll see. I may reach out to jontherooster and employ his keen painting skills. I've seen some of his canopies and would love to see what he could do with this one, assuming he's up to the task.



The included carbon fiber main blades are an impressive addition to the kit. In anticipation of the build, I bought a set of Vic Campbell's V2Blades but am going to hold off on using them for the time being.

Included Carbon Fiber Main Blades






The kit also comes with a set of wooden blades. I think I'll keep these just in case as they appear to be of reasonable construction. As part of this build, I may or may not evaluate them (haven't decided yet).

Included Wooden Main Blades






I was really surprised to see an RC-Expert labeled speed controller included in the kit. I've dealt directly with RC-Expert in the past and can't say I have had any problems with them. I'm not sure if RC-Tek decided to go with the RC-Expert ESC or if this was a decision RCer International made. It offers soft start, 5V BEC for up to 3S LiPo, and governor mode. RC-Expert rates it as a 40A ESC.

RC-Expert 40A ESC


The included motor is rated for 3500Kv and reminds me of the generic JustGoFly 450TH you can get from places like HeliDirect.

3500Kv Brushless Motor


For the CCPM assembly I'll be using Hitec HS-65HB servos that I bought just for this build.

I plan on using a CSM SL420e gyro and had initially wanted to use an Airtronics 94761Z digital servo on the tail but I noticed while going through the manual that the tail servo is supposed to be mounted into the frame. I may go with an HS-50 or HS-56 as a work around, or use a couple of my spare T-Rex servo boom mounts and linkage rod.

That's it for tonight. Tomorrow I plan to tackle the head assembly and will provide updates accordingly. There's a lot to this kit for the price and I can't wait to get it in the air to compare it to my fully blinged HDE T-Rex. The price gap between the two is huge.


< Message edited by ShellDude -- 12/11/2006 6:30:02 AM >
       Post #: 1

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/19/2006 3:43:05 AM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Step 1 (M-A)

I went ahead and did step 1 tonight. Aside from the mixing arms on the each of the blade holders, the assembly of the head and blade holders is exactly the same as a T-Rex head. The o-rings are the same as is the feathering shaft and bearings. One other minor variance is that the Dragonus calls for a clear PVC spacer between each o-ring going into the head.

Even though the instructions call for loctite sealant on the bearings for the mixing arms and blade holders, they were secured at the factory. I tried to remove them but was unsuccessful. Translation: I'm satisified with their assembly.

The smaller collars go on the mixing arms and the larger ones go on the feathering shaft.










(in reply to ShellDude)
       Post #: 2

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/19/2006 4:48:56 AM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Step 2 (M-B)

Step 2 consists of adding the flybar holder, flybar, flybar mixing arms, and main shaft to the head assembly. Once again the parts requiring permanent loctite were already done for me.

A few things to call out about this step (which the manual already makes clear):

  • Flybar total length is 200mm
  • Flybar clearance on each side of main shaft is 74.5mm
  • Flybar mixing arms must be parallel to one another
  • Assemble the main shaft and jesus bolt prior to assembling the flybar









(in reply to ShellDude)
       Post #: 3

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/19/2006 6:36:50 AM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Step 3 (M-C)

Step 3 consists of adding all the balls to the swashplate and the anti rotation bar, assembling the washout base and arms, and attaching them to the swashplate.

Some things to note regarding this step:

  • Manual calls for loctite sealant between the washout base and the washout arms. Since the washout base is plastic I chose to use a drop of CA instead.
  • For the sake of safety I applied a drop of CA to the screw ends for both of the washout linkages to washout arm mounts.









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       Post #: 4

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/19/2006 6:53:56 PM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
An update from Scott over at RC-Tek:

  • The RC-Expert ESC was a fill-in item provided for sample purposes only. RC-Tek plans to use a different ESC with the product rollout.




< Message edited by ShellDude -- 11/25/2006 3:09:32 PM >

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       Post #: 5

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/19/2006 8:13:25 PM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Potential Hazard

After being urged to check the head block pin because of reports of it falling out, I heated mine up, removed it from the head block, applied some green loctite, and reinserted it.

I was unable to remove the pin without applying heat to it, but if there's one thing I've learned in this hobby, when someone calls out a potential issue, it's always best to follow through.

Pin removed


And reinserted with green loctite (sealant)




(in reply to ShellDude)
       Post #: 6

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/19/2006 10:48:07 PM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Step 4 (M-D)

Another easy step consisting of assembling the head ball linkages and attaching them. My only callout on this step is to use CA on the flybar paddles instead loctite adhesive. I blew a drop into each paddle before assembly then put a drop on the exterior of each afterwards.

Life size linkage pictures


The finished head








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       Post #: 7

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/20/2006 4:08:43 AM   
Kevinator9



Posts: 1066
Joined: 7/10/2006
From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Status: offline
That's one nice looking rotor head...

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RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/20/2006 4:40:56 AM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
It's been a great build thus far. The bling factor is really nice with this kit. Here comes the tail....

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       Post #: 9

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/20/2006 4:45:29 AM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Step 5 (T-A)

Step 5 consists of assembly of the tail unit, pitch arm & lever, idle pulley, and shaft.

Use a drop of CA for securing the tail pitch ball to the pitch arm and the tail gear and shaft

Install the tail pulley and collars before installing the rear spacer

Install the pitch arm mount to the housing using the two lower screw holes on the housing

Triflow (PTFE) oil the bearings








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       Post #: 10

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/20/2006 6:34:58 AM   
ShellDude


 

Posts: 150
Joined: 8/24/2004
From: Pottstown, PA, USA
Status: offline
Step 6 (T-B)

In Step 6 you assemble the tail blade holders to their hub, install the balls and linkages on the blade holders, slip it all onto the tail shaft, secure the shaft, then secure the tail assembly to the boom.

I installed the grip spacers as instructed but noted that the blades fit much more snug than I'm used to. I'm going to work them a bit more before flying as I'm not satisified with their fit... It seems too tight at the moment.

I found the best way to get the spacers in was to line them up with the blade holders then slip the blades into the holders, thread the screws through each side, then setup them up for the final assembly with the supplied nuts.

I used a drop of CA on each of the blade linkages where they attach to the pitch control set.

Once again, very straight-forward and smooth. The silver CF fin, CNC aluminum tail assembly, and aluminum boom have quite the shine!




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       Post #: 11

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/20/2006 6:42:32 AM   
-Inverted-



Posts: 11836
Joined: 10/5/2005
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline
..Hmm, I find it a bit strange RCer isn't using their Warp series brushless motors as the Warps are amazing motors.

_____________________________

The Living Legend

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       Post #: 12

RE: Dragonus II Elite Standard Build Thread - 11/20/2006 6:47:04 AM   
ShellDude