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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 2:45 AM   
    Gryphon


     

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    From: Charlotte, NC, USA
    Status: offline     		I.C.O.N. ,

    It looks like that (3700-3S) battery would be good for 110MPH easy if not more depending on your future motor.
    From the specs that I read here ( http://www.vampowerpro.com/ ) you should be able to fit it in a 3S or 4S after cutting enough foam.

    With 4S the weight of wooden Elevons would be mandatory for C.G. and you should get to 120-125+ with the right combination.

    Although the 3700-5S could also fit, I would not go bigger than 3300-5S due to weight.

    _______________


    eeeclaire69,
    V-tail and Delta are not the same. To find out more about your Heli radio you may want to place a post in the Radio forum ( http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_157/tt.htm )and let them know that you need to know if it works with DELTA configuration for ELEVONs.


    Have a great weekend everyone.

    Gryphon

    < Message edited by Gryphon -- 5/27/2007 2:48 AM >

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 5:53 AM   
    Stryker_Viking



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    From: Alameda, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		Catastrophe stricken Stryker_Viking regret he didn't buy that homing device someone mention a couple of weeks ago...

    I'll never start flying again without the glasses on my nose...

    Was out flying from the top of that hill where Gryphon and I were a while ago, but this time I actually managed to fly beyond my old eyes capacity...
    All of a sudden my Stryker was impossible to see in the sky...
    Turned co-pilot on, attempted to turn left + up elevator... throttled up... could here that Medusa scream for a second or two – then silence...
    Spent two days searching and putting up posters, no luck so far...
    Why didn't I get that device, would have paid off now...
    I'm soo bummed...
    Anyone know the source for that device?

    Stryker_Viking

    PS. Gryphon: Hope you are doing well over there buddy. Hey, I think you mixed it up my friend; V-tail and Delta works the same way, same settings (mix) as we use...

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 5:58 AM   
    I.C.O.N.



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    Status: offline     		Gryphon,

    Would I be better off (or just as well off) to put 2 DNpower 3S 2150's in series?

    They Weigh 167g each. So I would have a 4300 3S at around 435g. They are 20C too. They have a deal going on those 2 for $80!!!

    I am currently using those on all my planes (Extra,Typhoon and Stryker) They are very handy and I would love to prop up for speed or just prop down and throw one batt in for some relaxing glide time.

    What do you thinks?

    Thanks!
    Andy

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 9:46 AM   
    Gryphon


     

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    Status: offline     		Stryker_Viking,

    I am so sorry my friend that is truly sad news. At least I wished that you could find the wreck and get partial credit for parts replacement. I hope you didn't have the Castle Creations ESC in there. Which battery was in there?
    Be glad you didn't do that extra 10 hours of work you had planned for the fuse, but you must of still had an extra 10 hours compared to me.

    Take that new fuse that I gave you before leaving California and get back in the air ASAP. Make sure the wings are fully straight before you do your C.F. work. Go with C.F. rods this time to get back in the air ASAP. Then take your time for the Ultimate Fuse work on the next one.

    I know how you feel, for a reminder read my MEGA-Zilla thread on page 18 or 19 of park flier forum. My feelings were well documented.

    I must go now.
    _______________


    I.C.O.N., (2) 3S in series will make 6S, but (2) 3S in parallel will give you 3S but twice capacity and amp rating. One of the Stryker gods was not so happy with me after my wreck and I was using (2) 5S-2100 in parallel for 5S. If you are not pushing the batteries to the max you'll be O.K. Also one of my best friends pushed (2) 2100-3S (15C) in parallel well into their burst rating and he had no issues. So I don't know what to say.

    To be safe I will not go cheap with the battery, but I know it is a lot safer to use (2) batteries in series if it fits the application compared to (2) batteries in parallel.
    _____________

    As I recall my trans has a setting for V-tail and also a setting for Delta. So I'm not so sure that they are the same. I must admit that I have not had a V-tail plane in the past.
    See what others with more experience in this area say; that is why I gave the link for the Radio forum on RCUniverse.

    Gryphon

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 2:04 PM   
    eeeclaire69


     

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    Status: offline     		Hi, thanks for your reply and advise. The transmitter that i have is just the basic 6 chanel e-fly set that comes with the minipred 3d heli, it does have a v-tail mode! is v-tail suitable for the Stryker? or does it have to be delta? or are they the same?
    Cheers Ian.

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 2:31 PM   
    tam popo


     

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    Status: offline     		Not sure, you need tomake some more enquiries. Another alternative to keep price down a lot, still golipo but use stock 480motor,(brushed esc as well)- will save about £45. Going on hols to Spain in 2 hours solast post for 2 weeks. Hasta la vista mi amigos, I'll be back!!

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 3:51 PM   
    I.C.O.N.



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    Status: offline     		The V-tail mixing still uses Ailerons and mixes the rudder and elevator.

    Elevon mixing mixes the elevator and ailerons.

    You need elevon mixing for the Stryker. There may be a way to make it work... but not without some work.

    When you think about it though CCPM mixing is very close to elevon mixing on the two aileron servos. When you push forward they both go one direction and when you pull back they go the other way. So really all you would need to is use those two channels and the throttle channel for elevon mixing. You would need to work out the throws for the elevator though. Your Pitch curve would have to be set and 50% across the board. That way the elevator would not move with the throttle. The throttle curve would be a 0-100.

    I think the problem would come in when you try and get more elevator throw and keep the same aileron throw... I don't believe it will support that.

    I thought about this when I was tinkering with a Heli 4-in-1 unit and was going to put it in a foamy for the fun of it. Never actully got around to that one though. Although people have succfully used Blade CX 4-in-1 units for elevon foamies. So I know it can be done.

    Your best bet would be to get a radio that supports both helis and all the standard mixes. But if you do try and get the mixing to work with your current radio(an I know I would have to try... ) Let us know how it turns out!

    Good Luck!
    Andy

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/27/2007 11:27 PM   
    tims880


     

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    Status: offline     		I am using a 6 channel radio. As long as it has v tail mixing it will work.
    I had a 4 channel radio with no v tail mixing and it would not work.

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/28/2007 8:13 AM   
    Mr. Mugen



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    Status: offline     		Does anyone know for sure (or close) what the stock BL motor's KV rating is? I want to replace my stock one and keep it slower for training my kids on a speedier plane. The stock shaft bent a bit on my last outting.

    Gryphon- I am still waiting for some parts from Randy and fuses to get back in stock. I missed the last opportunity by hours. Hoping to get this built soon but everything is working against me right now.

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/28/2007 8:29 AM   
    Gryphon


     

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    Status: offline     		Mr. Mugen,

    If you look on the right column of the link below, you'll see 1880KV.

    http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PKZ4200

    I'll send you a PM
    _____________________

    www.parkzone.com I see some new planes on there.

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    < Message edited by Gryphon -- 5/28/2007 8:43 AM >

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/28/2007 8:36 AM   
    Mr. Mugen



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    Status: offline     		TY. How's the new job?

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/29/2007 9:59 PM   
    critterhunter



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    Status: offline     		Hey all, haven't been on much lately. Wanted to post this great review of the $32 3500 k/v motor I was talking about a while back.

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691342#post7536847

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/30/2007 3:56 AM   
    jeraldjcook


     

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    Status: offline     		I'm looking for a bit more cheap speed on my stock (except for a Spektrum AR6100 ) F27c. Does anyone have any idea how many amps a 5x5 or a 6x5.5 would pull? I'm using hexTronik 2200 mAh 20/30c 3s lipos and have mounted the esc with its heatsink sticking though the fuselage cover so I'm willing to push the amps a little.

    I had planned on some major motor, battery, and esc upgrades the but bought a DX7 and new charger instead.

    < Message edited by jeraldjcook -- 5/30/2007 7:01 AM >

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/30/2007 7:09 AM   
    Mr. Mugen



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    Status: offline     		I just put a 2200 20c in mine with a 5x5 and it drew 17.6AP and 195WP.

    I just put the 6x5.5 on and came up with this....277WP and 26.05 AP WOuld need to dial it down a bit or get better esc to handle it for any duration and still be safe.

    < Message edited by Mr. Mugen -- 5/30/2007 7:14 AM >

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/30/2007 1:06 PM   
    robertdownes25


     

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    Status: offline     		Hi guys. Gorilla Glue or CA? Which one is best? Also, I've just done a beer can mod on my Stryker on the motor mount area, and was wondering should I glue all of the metal down or just a bit of it? At the momemnt I'm thinking just glue the edges of the cans down, but that would mean the main support is still coming from the four screws going through the tin can plating and the fuse.

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/30/2007 5:35 PM   
    jeraldjcook


     

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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Mr. Mugen

    I just put a 2200 20c in mine with a 5x5 and it drew 17.6AP and 195WP.

    I just put the 6x5.5 on and came up with this....277WP and 26.05 AP WOuld need to dial it down a bit or get better esc to handle it for any duration and still be safe.


    Were those static readings or taken during flight? If static, that 26.05 amp would surely unload a little during flight.

    Have you flown with either of them? If so, what improvements? How much speed was gained and thrust lost with the 5x5? 6x5.5?

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/30/2007 6:07 PM   
    critterhunter



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: robertdownes25

    Hi guys. Gorilla Glue or CA? Which one is best? Also, I've just done a beer can mod on my Stryker on the motor mount area, and was wondering should I glue all of the metal down or just a bit of it? At the momemnt I'm thinking just glue the edges of the cans down, but that would mean the main support is still coming from the four screws going through the tin can plating and the fuse.


    Gorilla glue is great for putting carbon tubes into melted channels, etc. I still use CA or epoxy for gluing my two canopies together, etc. Both have their place. Can't help on the motor mount without a picture for a better idea. However, when it comes to strength the more glue the better.


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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 1:14 AM   
    Mr. Mugen



    Posts: 8048
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    Status: offline     		Sorry..... those were static not in flight. I suppose I should have mentioned that I bet it will be around 24ish in flight.

    I have not flown with anything other than stock prop so far. I hope to tomorrow if the weather cooperates.

    Hey Gryphon....I have all the pieces in my hands now. Just need to relook at the pics you sent me and start building. This is my maiden weekend for the charter boat so I will be very busy getting it ready and doing some prefishing. Maybe next week I will get started on it....hopefully.

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 1:41 AM   
    DepronJet


     

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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Stryker_Viking


    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Mr. Mugen

    Gryphon-I have been looking for the post where you told us what connectors you used from the esc to motor. I think I remember them being 6.5mm? I am looking for some with no luck. I got the 125 esc today and the 16/25/2 mega. Thanks


    Mr. Mugen

    Allow me to answer that question for my friend Gryphon who just moved from California (temporary we hope) to the East coast yesterday, so I think it's going to take a while before he has moved in and has his computer set up.

    Gryphon and I split a batch of 100 pairs of 6 mm gold plated connectors developed and manufactured by Neu motors in San Diego, http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Connectors.html,
    We have the version for soldering to up to 10 gauge wires, (lower left on the first image)

    They also have smaller connectors as well; 5.5 mm and 4.0 mm for up to 100 Amp... though they are much longer compared to the very compact 6 mm. Total length of 4 mm is 27.35 mm/1.077" long...

    Remember that a chain isn't stronger then it's weakest link - use same type connectors on battery AND motor side of the esc...

    Good luck

    Stryker_Viking





    using common logic.. if you have 2 connections from the battery and 3 connections to the motor then the amps input will be spread over the output so you can reduce the size of the wires/connectors if you wish!
    just dont reduce it too much!

    for instance 3mm Battery Connectors.. 2mm Motor/ESC Connectors
    4mm Battery connectors.. 3mm Motor/ESC Connectors Etc..
    assuming that you use the weakest link theory i hope your flooring boards are made up using 8 inch x 4 inch thick wood

    forgive me if this sounds very precise.. i do drop in and often read !
    why put more emphasis on connectors then slap in a cheapo Lipo?
    the greatest resistance is in the Cells !



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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 5:47 AM   
    I.C.O.N.



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: critterhunter

    Hey all, haven't been on much lately. Wanted to post this great review of the $32 3500 k/v motor I was talking about a while back.

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691342#post7536847


    I just ordered one of these. Hope to get it in the air next week!

    Andy

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 7:50 AM   
    Stryker_Viking



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: DepronJet


    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Stryker_Viking


    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Mr. Mugen

    Gryphon-I have been looking for the post where you told us what connectors you used from the esc to motor. I think I remember them being 6.5mm? I am looking for some with no luck. I got the 125 esc today and the 16/25/2 mega. Thanks


    Mr. Mugen

    Allow me to answer that question for my friend Gryphon who just moved from California (temporary we hope) to the East coast yesterday, so I think it's going to take a while before he has moved in and has his computer set up.

    Gryphon and I split a batch of 100 pairs of 6 mm gold plated connectors developed and manufactured by Neu motors in San Diego, http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Connectors.html,
    We have the version for soldering to up to 10 gauge wires, (lower left on the first image)

    They also have smaller connectors as well; 5.5 mm and 4.0 mm for up to 100 Amp... though they are much longer compared to the very compact 6 mm. Total length of 4 mm is 27.35 mm/1.077" long...

    Remember that a chain isn't stronger then it's weakest link - use same type connectors on battery AND motor side of the esc...

    Good luck

    Stryker_Viking





    using common logic.. if you have 2 connections from the battery and 3 connections to the motor then the amps input will be spread over the output so you can reduce the size of the wires/connectors if you wish!
    just dont reduce it too much!

    for instance 3mm Battery Connectors.. 2mm Motor/ESC Connectors
    4mm Battery connectors.. 3mm Motor/ESC Connectors Etc..
    assuming that you use the weakest link theory i hope your flooring boards are made up using 8 inch x 4 inch thick wood

    forgive me if this sounds very precise.. i do drop in and often read !
    why put more emphasis on connectors then slap in a cheapo Lipo?
    the greatest resistance is in the Cells !





    Hello there DepronJet...

    Curiosity (as usual) drives me to ask you about your posting as it does not make sense to me...

    How did you figure that one out, that..."the amps input will be spread over the output..."

    My memory of the law of physics might be inaccurate and not very precise, but I have a hard time to understand your statement... also have to disagree with your recommendation to the folks here about reducing wires and connectors...

    There are several of us here who experienced the consequence of overloading our too small connectors, especially when using the bigger TP extreme's...

    What are you using your self (battery/motor/esc. etc.) and what is your experience with them?

    Hev a great day

    Stryker_Viking


    ***********************************************
    * PS. ~~DO NOT reduce the size of the wires/connectors~~ *
    ***********************************************




    < Message edited by Stryker_Viking -- 5/31/2007 7:52 AM >

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 5:05 PM   
    chippedprop


     

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    Status: offline     		Hey Dupron
    Please forgive viking as he doesn't know your vast backgrd.
    Be gentle oh great master!!!
    CP

    P.S.
    Viking
    D.J. started the whole Stryker craze on here. Be careful on your messages
    CP

    < Message edited by chippedprop -- 5/31/2007 5:09 PM >

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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 6:31 PM   
    critterhunter



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: I.C.O.N.


    quote:

    ORIGINAL: critterhunter

    Hey all, haven't been on much lately. Wanted to post this great review of the $32 3500 k/v motor I was talking about a while back.

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691342#post7536847


    I just ordered one of these. Hope to get it in the air next week!

    Andy


    Great, let us know how you like it. You can check out my "Build A Bullet Proof Stryker" thread for more info on this motor, somewhere in the last three or four pages or so.


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    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 10:22 PM   
    critterhunter



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    Last Login: 3/25/2013
    From: Out There, USA, PA, USA
    Status: offline     		I know this isn't exactly Stryker related but you guys have to check out this thread of hotwiring scratch built foam planes. This guy has got it going on! Printed out the thread so I can read and learn. Makes me feel like I've been working with sticks and stones.

    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93759

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    (in reply to Gryphon)
           Post #: 2324

    RE: F27 STRYKER - Way Past the Limits - Part 5 - Step i... - 5/31/2007 11:04 PM   
    Swift427



    Posts: 616
    Score: 101
    Joined: 3/15/2007
    Last Login: 5/19/2012
    From: Minneapolis, MN, USA
    Status: offline     		I read all of your repair pages on the other thread as my son had a major F27/C crash. Broke off entire motor mount from plane (weight of motor/mount) and nose of plane about 1 1/2 inches further behind the attached nose extension (weigh of Lipo battery driven into fuse nose is what caused the front nose of plane to completely break off). Partially my fault as I used some Loctite Sumo glue to more securely attach the front nose extension. Now, I understand why you only want the front nose cone secure enough for flight, but to release during a crash. Luckily, all the electronics still work. And we thought the first damage to the plane would be one of the fins, but they are still securely attached and good as new.

    I was thinking of using a 1/8" dia. hot metal rod to melt the Z-foam in a couple places (about 2 inches apart) up the rear middle interior of the tail under/through the middle of the motor mount foam (where it is thicker in the center) for about six inches total length from the rearmost of the motor mount foam into the fuse. Then insert 6" long carbon tubes into these melted 1/8" diameter openings using a sufficient amount of glue. I really like using this newer Sumo glue from Loctite on foam. Or would you still recommend Gorilla glue as the preferred glue? Being that the weight of the rear motor is likely to crack the foam around the motor mount during a major crash would you suggest any other reinforcements other then the two carbon tubes so as to prevent the motor/mount from completely breaking free of the fuse. Or would one 1/8" stiff carbon tube directly in the middle interior center of the motor mount and up the middle center interior of the fuse be sufficient?

    I was hoping "Z-foam" was more indestructible like that on the Fly Wheels XPV or the little Pico Z helicopter. Now I'll have to actually cut through the Sumo glue that is holding on the attached nose cone 'too securely ' and just use double sided tape or your magnet modification.

    < Message edited by Swift427 -- 5/31/2007 11:07 PM >

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    (in reply to critterhunter)
           Post #: 2325

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