RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build  
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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/7/2007 2:46 AM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		Thanks again Tim. I'm glad we met too. Hope it'll be in person some day. That short fellow is my grandson Trevor. He's crazy about airplanes and thinks that they'er all "Gampa's airplane" even the big ones in the sky.
Now Don. Back to the build (this is a build thread ) Getting the rigging to look scale has been on my mind from the very begining. How to get fittings small enough to look scale but strong enough to hold the wings together. Without the rigging these wings would fold up like a cheap card table.
I cut a piece of 1/16 brass tube and silver soldered it into a short piece of 3/32. I ground the large end to length,Cut a slit with the band saw, flattened the end, and drilled a #75 pin hole. Then I slipped a piece of 1/8 aluminum rod, drilled out with a 1/16 hole over the small end to simulate the pivot. Since I wound up painting the whole fitting I could have used 1/8 dowel instead of aluminum and saved myself a lot of grief. OH,well. Maybe next time The ends are silver soldered onto the .025 music wire (.032 for the mains. Next came the fun part, setting the tension. I made the wires a slight bit longer than the gap to make it easier to insert the brass pins.Then I made a little tool that clamps onto the wire at one end and hooks into the fitting at the other end. Apply pressure to the tool, put the soldering iron on the fitting and when the solder gets hot the wire slides into the fitting. The harder you press, the tighter the wire. For the spacers I used aluminum duct tape and a small piece of card stock. Just cut a thin strip of tape, put the card stock between the wires and give it a couple of wraps with the tape. The pics I have show them to be black, so I painted them. I've also seen them natural.
Steve

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< Message edited by smcouch77 -- 8/7/2007 2:48 AM >

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/7/2007 4:41 AM   
abufletcher



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Status: online 		Steve, sorry, I don't get it. I get the "clamp on wire" part but not how pressing and soldering makes the wire tighter. Sounds ingenious -- if only I could understand. From what I can understand so far it sounds like the wires are not adjustable on the model (without resoldering).

BTW, how tight are your wires?

< Message edited by abufletcher -- 8/7/2007 3:03 PM >

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/7/2007 12:40 PM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		Don, you are correct. The tension is set on the model. If the wire in the photo needed to be tightened up I would touch the iron to the fitting while applying a little pressure. I used Stay Brite solder which has a fairly low melting point, so it only takes a couple of seconds to tighten a wire. I just couldnt find a way to make a fitting with threads at this scale.
To answer the second question, the wires are snug but not tight.
Steve

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/8/2007 7:43 PM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		Here's a shot of the finished engine compartment. Not much room for anything else in there. Everything works fine. The muffler is under the engine and the exhaust exits through the large half circle opening over the bombs. The servo on the left is for the bomb rack.
Steve


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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/8/2007 8:08 PM   
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Status: offline 		Steve did you have any over heating problems with the engine? I did until I baffeled my engine. It seemed to help.

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/8/2007 11:34 PM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		The engine seems to be cooling OK. It was pretty hot this weekend and it ran smooth and idled perfectly. I think the plywood sides being moved in restrict the airflow enough. I was concerned when I had to move the muffler inside, but it all worked out alright.
Steve

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 12:45 AM   
abufletcher



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Status: online 		Steve, you know I know nothing whatsoever about control line. But I find myself wondering how you operate servos.

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 1:28 AM   
Phlip



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Status: offline 		I believe I can answer that for you ... generally a scale C/L'er hooks a radio transmitter on his belt and operates the extra controls with the left hand (in the case of a right handed pilot, holding the handle with his right hand). Sometimes they use radio, other times they send the signals through the lines.

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 2:58 AM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		Philip is right except that you have to send the signal through the lines, at least for any type of competition. Some radios have a direct servo drive function which uses a wired conection. I use a unit which encodes a digital signal from controls at my handle to a decoder in the plane that drives the servos. Same thing as R/C except it sends over the control lines(Nylon Insulated)
Steve

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 4:28 AM   
abufletcher



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Status: online 		Wow, that is SOOO cool! I learn something everday! I guess I'm still living in the past of COX control line with blue plastic handles.

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 5:22 AM   
Airwarrior



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Status: offline 		Holy cow. I've only ever used or seen the little plastic ones. I didn't even know they have throttle control!


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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 12:18 PM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		It's a shame, but most people think that C/L is a little plastic Cox airplane.They are very difficult to fly. So you give one to a kid, he crashes it the first time he trys to fly, and that's the end of his "model" airplane experience. I wonder how many potential modelers Cox has run off over the years. Anything for a buck.
Steve

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 5:02 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Stevo.. have you ever flown RC? If not.. just something to think about

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 6:19 PM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		Yes, Bob. I have several R/C planes. My test plane can fly both C/L and R/C with about a half hour to change a few items. I wanted to do that with this plane, but with the full cockpit there just wasn't enough room. Also, I think 1/3 scale will be better for R/C. I also fly some indoor free flight in the winter. Peanut scale is a real gas.
To me modeling is modeling. If it has wings and flys I'm interested.
Steve

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 6:22 PM   
abufletcher



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Status: online 		Me, I've always wanted to try 1/3 scale free-flight! Or maybe peanut scale turbine jets.

Seriously, I wouldn't mind giving CL a go. What would be your recommendation for a good "start model" (non-scale)?

< Message edited by abufletcher -- 8/9/2007 6:23 PM >

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/9/2007 9:33 PM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		1/3 scale free flight? Turbine powered peanut scale? Don, nothing would supprise me in this hobby.
I think the SIG Banshee is a great first C/L plane. It's easy to build(and fix ).You can set it upwith little throw for a trainer, then give it full control and fly the whole pattern. It has a 48" span and uses a .35 engine. I like the OS Max, but a fox will work. If you can find anyone in your area that flys C/L, it's a lot easier to learn with help. Here's mine.
Steve

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/10/2007 12:55 AM   
timfarrar



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Status: offline 		Steve & Don :

I had the Banshee years ago and it was a great flying plane.
I cut 4" of the nose so it would be more manuverable and it was still rock steady when I went nutral.
It was without a doubt the best flying plane I had.

Mine was yellow also like on the box but your is beautiful covered the way you have yours Steve.

I was just a kid when I had mine but I could fly it inverted litterally right on the pavement steadely around the circle. The circles were right next to the park with a fence between and on a few different occations I got a crowed of people clapping
It embarrased me and my dad but we appreciated it It was because I was so small but knew how to fly pretty well and it looked cool to those adults watch a youngen do that
It could also do a half moon and just absolutely 90 deg, right on the pavement and come out level and steady. I impressed myself with that because it absolutly looked as if it were going to hit full blast into the concreate straight on.

Its last flight I was inverted about 2' off the ground and the down string or cable broke and that was it. K&B .35 and plane tottal lose Every one gathered at the fence that day was saying stuff to make me feel better because I was crying

I just wanted to share that with you guys, It was a few moments of glorry to me with that Bamshee.

SEEYA, TIM

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/11/2007 12:59 AM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		Thanks Tim. Memories like that are what it's all about.

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/13/2007 12:09 AM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		I made a little progress this weekend. First, the pitot tubes. Iused 1/16 brass tubing for the tubes and 14gage copper wireup the strut. A piece of 3/32 brass tube was partially flattened, the tubes placed inside, and then I crimped it in between the tubes. I ran the copper wire and soldered the brackets on.
Second are the boots to cover the holes where the flyingwires go through the wings. These are small pieces of cloth wrapped around the wireand tied with rigging thread. A little CA, and some paint, and there we are.
I started on the dummy engine. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
Steve


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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/13/2007 2:21 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Steve!

Great looking details! Sure look authentic. Can't wait to see you engine details.

Since I'm currently doing sone small details myself for my BUSA '5a', I'd be interested in reading about how you made your wing struct brackets (i.e. the black ones, with holes in them). I've been playing around with some brass stock but it has been tedious, and I'm sure there must be an easier way BTW, my gear assy. came out great. Thanks for your help/info you sent.

Dick

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/13/2007 11:02 PM   
TFF


 

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Status: offline 		Congratulations on your win! Did you loop it like you wanted to? I hate the thought of doing a pull test on it.

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/13/2007 11:08 PM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		Hi Dick. Someone else asked about that a while back ( I think it was Don) and I completely forgot to answer. Sorry about that.
I used this photo to make a CAD drawing for patterns. So, here are the photo and drawings. You can scale them to whatever size you need.
I form each bracket around it's own strut end. First I clamp a piece of card stock around the end. Then I cut the bottom to fit and use a pattern piece to draw the top line and to locate the holes(push lightly with a pin). Next, take it off, bend it in half, mark the hole locations to the other side, and cut the top. You should have a pattern like this. Transfer it to tin or brass(I used tin), drill the holes, clean it up with a file, and wrap it tightly around the strut. Keeping it clamped, remove it and silver solder the inside seam. Mark the tab and cut it out. I leave about 1/32" of soldered seam all the way down.
I know it sounds like alot, but it only took a couple of hours to make all eight brackets.
Steve

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< Message edited by smcouch77 -- 8/13/2007 11:16 PM >

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/14/2007 2:20 PM   
MaineBear


 

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Status: offline 		Great bracket info, Steve, Thanks! Has given me some good ideas to work with in adapting them to the kit's strut/wing attachment. Didn't think about using tin, and that should be easier, too.

Dick

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/14/2007 3:11 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Steve a question. Are your struts sectured to the wing or do they just sit on the wing or what? I had to modify my strut attachments because the kit method had them secured to the wing via a nut and threaded rod that protruded through the wing surface. I didn't like that so I chaned mine. Now they have the threaded rod that sits in a hole in in the spar but the wires keep the wings togather. Was just wondering your method.

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RE: SE5a 1/6 Scale Scratch Build - 8/15/2007 2:28 AM   
smcouch77



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Status: offline 		I made a tab from a golden rod cable end. I flattened the end,cut it off and drilled for a #1-72 bolt.I threaded it into a small hardwood block at the spar. It fits into a hole in the end of the strut and is bolted on.
You mentioned the kit bracket bolting through the wing. Here's a shot of 904 that shows the strut bracket bolts as well as the mid wing brackets.

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