RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/3/2009 10:38 PM

wileecoyote

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NATE, yep 3mm nuts for those bolts. The measurement is 3x25 Thread size is 3 length is 25. Thats not so bad it needs replaced but if it takes another shot probably will break. Im a nut so Id replace it as it would bother me every time I looked at the truck. Im weird that way. Everything has to be neat clean and straight. I know ANAL right? Haha. GLASS, thats great. Hope it doesnt continue peeling away but at least you know whats happenin, right? ROAD, ya I tried my local hardware but they dont have anything that small in stock and to order it'd be a bulk order which means like 250 bolts. What am I gonna do with 250 bolts? So I been getting them at the local hobby which isnt so local but at least I can get them, usually for a decent price. I think its great we can all BS about our trucks and can get together like you and I did to solve problems and swap parts. This is what it should be all about. So I say, keep it up ya'll. Now, go have some fun!!

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/3/2009 11:57 PM

GlassBullet

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Road Warrior

since these are 1/10 scale trucks 132 is 1/10 of a quarter mile

I thought it had something to do with that.

So I'm having some problems again (I knew I was jinxing myself last time). This time it's with starting. Here's how it usually goes when I'm trying to start it: first 5 or so pulls, nothing. then next 5 or 7 it sputters to life then the pullstart makes a "click" noise and it shuts off. After that I can get it going. This is all with the throttle trim up by the way. The needles are tuned good, but I richened up the LSN to see if it helped. Also, I set the idle so the wheels don't spin off the ground, but after a few seconds of idling it starts to rev up. I'm pretty sure its just not getting enough fuel but i haven't had time to test it yet. that's not a big problem at all, my main concern is the starting. I have yet to get it to start on the first pull and I would really like to achieve that.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 12:35 AM

nate4

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Mine does that same exact thing and my idle increases also just like yours.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 12:37 AM

nate4

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My truck likes to shut off about 3/4 through a tank and then it wont start do i need to richen it or what. Or do i just need to let it cool down.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 12:46 AM

nitro-rob

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Are you priming it enough before starting?

Stalling on the latter bit of a tank could be a half tank lean issue - all trucks can get that to a certain extent. Cooling won't do much - unless the engine is stalling because the sleeve is worn out and there is blow by that only occurs when its heated up.

< Message edited by nitro-rob -- 7/4/2009 12:49 AM >

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 12:53 AM

nate4

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So would you recommend just filling it up before it gets to that point. Ya i think the priming is good

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 12:55 AM

GlassBullet

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Yeah I'm priming it. I do have a fuel filter that makes little air bubbles in the fuel line, but there's nothing i can do about that. Should I prime it extra due to the bubbles? Also, what is that clicking noise, and why does the engine stall when that happens? I'll try to post of vid of what's going on

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 1:33 AM

nitro-rob

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I don't think the click is significant, its likely just the piston being trapped on the bottom half of its stroke - as it slows down it will hit the resistance of the taper in the sleeve and 'bounce back'.

Does it do this every time you fill or just on the first tank? I wonder if there is a lot of after run oil to burn off first before starting it. I after run mine pretty hard and it slows down starting a little. Glowplug?

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 1:48 AM

Road Warrior

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if are any time it revs up at idle your lsn is too lean if it keeps on reving after wot the high speed is too lean as far as the 3/4 tank then it wont run I'm not sure about that yet. Mine started doing that yesterday and I haven't messed with it yet. It has held a solid tune for a month now so i will tell you how to fix that tomorrow.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 1:53 AM

Road Warrior

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if are any time it revs up at idle your lsn is too lean if it keeps on reving after wot the high speed is too lean as far as the 3/4 tank then it wont run I'm not sure about that yet. Mine started doing that yesterday and I haven't messed with it yet. It has held a solid tune for a month now so i will tell you how to fix that tomorrow. Rob you are right about the clicking sound

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 2:52 AM

nitro-rob

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I have half tank lean problems with my savage but its pretty famous with that truck and as far as I know its never come up for the firestorm. I have noticed temperatures going up a little at the end of tanks on the storm when it had the G3 and in my MT2 but it was never significant. Can't argue with roadwarrior about the low speed needle. I would think that doubling the headspace with two tanks would only increase the chances of half tank lean happening.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 2:53 AM

wileecoyote

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That clicking noise is the pull starter cam that catches the lower part of the crank to spin the motor over. Has nothing to do with it shuttin down. It is the bounce back the guys have said. I would go with a new glow plug. Make sure your igniter is charged up or new battery. As far as the extra fuel filter, I dont have one on because the tank has one internally. Im not saying you dont need it but, I figure the fuel is filtered at the tank already. The 3/4 tank issue I have seen on mine. Never did figure out why but after a few runs it does it. I can only assume the fuel is being cooked off by the heated up motor. Or actually a vapor lock. Thats where the fuel is heated by the head and it turns into a vapor instead of a liquid. I would just fill up the tank as much as possible. ROADWARRIOR hit the nail on the head with his last comment about being lean. I usually pinch the fuel line right before the carb and count until it shuts down. If its six Im okay. If its longer than six its rich. Less than 4 its lean.Thats the low speed side. The high speed is adjusted after a run up and back the street and I have checked temperature with the thermo. If its 260 or higher its lean. I like about 230 or so. And I watch the exhaust smoke. The video on the cd HPI gives you shows what to look for. As for priming, it sounds odd but, I take the hose off the exhaust and blow in it to push fuel out of tank to carb. Be careful to not flood motor. Bur you will for sure get a good prime. Any air bubbles that get to the carb/motor will make it stutter and run crappy till they clear. Okay, hope this helps ya'll.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 3:01 AM

nitro-rob

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Half tank lean occurs because the head volume in the tank gets so large it becomes more difficult to pressurize so the fuel flow slows down. There are all sorts of crazy theories and explanations for it in forums.

I think this doesn't affect Road Warrior - doesn't the boost bottle pressurize the tank?

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 3:08 AM

GlassBullet

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There's a fuel filter in the tank? I didn't know that. I'll probably just go to using that one then instead of both. So HERE IS THE VIDEO of starting the car. I think the LSN is a little rich maybe? I did it before I came on here and saw what you said about the clicking not being important. I haven't run more than one tank in a row yet, but I'll let you know what happens. And I'm pretty sure I got the idle good. I'll probably go do some more testing with it tomorrow so I'll let you know then.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 3:46 AM

nitro-rob

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Does it keep running when you start it off the ground? Want to rule out the clutch sticking.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 4:02 AM

xjwellsx

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i didn't see much smoke coming out is your HSN to lean that could be causing your starting issues. Also if you've messed with the needles alot and are having problems i would recommend going to factory settings and starting over, and did you prime it before shooting the vid?

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 5:19 AM

J_Voisel

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Been a while since I've posted on here, but the 2 speed caught my attention. My Storm is still running good, away from breaking tierod ends and throwing dog bones everywhere.

Chevyguru, Is this the shaft you used with the end cut off?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJYU7&P=7

Or would you recommend the Traxxas starter shaft?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJL99&P=7

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 6:41 AM

wileecoyote

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GLASS, Both NITROROB and XJWELLSX have good points. I will say go back to standard settings and see what happens. I dont think the clutch is sticking because it sat and idled pretty fairly. I have the very same problem with starting after the truck sits for a day or two. I would start the truck up and let it sit for maybe 10 seconds with the glow plug igniter on it, rev it once or twice then take the igniter off. Could be the glow plug needs a little help staying lit for a moment or two then will keep going after it gets a little run time. Ive had to do this more and more as the motor gets older. One question, what type of fuel are you using? Did you recently switch? If so, I remember a time ago when my truck gave me fits like this until I got a full tank through it after switching to higher nitro content fuel. Never did figure out why but didnt think about it after it stopped throwing its temper tantrums.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 6:51 AM

GlassBullet

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Ok, tomorrow I'll try starting it off the ground and going back to factory settings. The fuel is XTM 20%. It's about 7 or 8 months old, but was stored sealed in the container in a cabinet in a cool garage the whole time.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 7:06 AM

Road Warrior

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I have the lean issue too. The boost bottle is only supposed to even out the positive and negative pressure that is created in the glow engine from the piston going up and down. That is why a good tune pipe will give more power. Unused fuel goes into the pipe and gets sucked back into the motor when the piston goes back down. It also works that way with the carb too. When the piston comes back down it puts pressure against the fuel coming in and the bottle is supposed to take that pressure instead of it going out of the carb in theory. If you want to get rid of the lean problem you have to get a one way valve and put it between the pipe and tank so there is always pressure on the tank instead of it cycling and getting sucked back into the motor from the exhaust scavenging. Nitro / 2 stroke motors are very complex and if you can figure out what all goes on and how they work tuning will be a easier and you will have a more powerful engine.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 8:59 AM

wileecoyote

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ROAD, yes sir. Nicely put, to the point. You taught me something...........again! J VOISEL, Integy has told me they are building new all aluminum tie rods and some other parts for the Storm. Just waiting for them to get them out now. They sell aluminum tie rod ends that should adapt to ours. Made for the Savage so I think they'll work. I have had the rods come apart and lost a dog bone or two. ROADWARRIOR has a fix for that. He puts a bolt and nut on the cup to keep them in place. Iam yet to do that. I was thinking of drilling and tapping the cup to put a set screw in them. Just an idea, his works so it may get that instead. Lots of other issuers to solve right now. Anybody got another idea? Speak up, we'd love to hear it.

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 9:37 AM

Road Warrior

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your up late wilee Yeah just put a hole in the cup and long screw and you will never loose another dog bone again. And for the motor report. Last time I ran it I went through a lot of plugs and thought I saw super tiny metal shavings on it. Yep the rear bearing went. Killed my plugs, scored the new piston, and sleeve. It was a older block and I knew it was coming the front one has been leaking for a while now but it held its tune so didn't worry about it. Glad there is a army of hypers is the closet be up and running again tomorrow. Nothing special though until I get a major shipment of goodies. Thinking about ceramics all around and a turbo head that should be balls to the wall insane after that. Glad to hear that you guys are finding my input useful. There isn't too much more to teach it's all here in the pages of this forum now. Glass it is common to have to hold the truck off the ground and let it warm up for a min before you take the igniter off. Some times it has to burn the after run and if you don't use it the old fuel gums up just a little in the bearings and it has to work a little harder till it's all gone. Which brings me to the last bit of knowledge. After run oil has pros and cons. Pros, keeps the motor from gumming up and varnishing which does not take very long at all. Cons, it has to be from a hobby shop multi purpose oils such as marvel mystery and wd-40 contain petrolium distilates that eat o rings and seals inside your engine. So don't use just anything that lubricates

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 11:14 AM

wipeout2097

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Hi there guys.

I have finally found out a shop here that can get me an OS engine and I have a question.

I want to get this engine : 18TZ-TX w/Roto Carb but it comes with a threaded shaft instead of pilot shaft.
I've seen somewhere on the forum that there is an adapter but I can't seem to find it anymore and don't know what to order.
Can someone tell me what brand and model is that adapter?

I found the adapter finally but now I was wondering if this adapter is intended to go onto a standard threaded shaft or a short one... HMMM I think it will go on standard threaded.

Thanks a lot.

< Message edited by wipeout2097 -- 7/4/2009 3:55 PM >

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 6:08 PM

wileecoyote

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HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY!!! WIPEOUT, I know somewhere here Ive seen someone with an .18 OS motor do a search and PM them. ROAD, ya up way late. I taped out and painted a new body for my Sav last night. Only thing left is stickers and striping. Nice to have all those spares isnt it? I gotta start workin on getting parts for the Axial. Ya'll be careful, have a great Fourth, and have fun!

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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=- - 7/4/2009 9:39 PM

nitro-rob

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There is a separate feed in the nitro stadium truck area on how to install a CV-R. Also look up Nitro-Nate, he did it a year or two ago.

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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Nitro Stadium Trucks >> RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
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