RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM THREAD=-
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RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/29/2008 3:15:51 PM

buggymangp

Posts: 625
Joined: 2/1/2006
From: ny ny, USA
Status: offline

hey tom
i have been keeping up with your posts here and see you got hold of the linkage problem.
sorry i can`t take any pictures like the other guy did. but now you know how to do adjust linkages.
check on hpi web site. they might have something on how to install clutch springs and shoes.
or just look on how the old ones come off. but be careful. those clutch springs like to go south as you try to install them.
i must have a bunch behind my work bench. LOL

(in reply to tomcannon05)

Post #: 1801

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/29/2008 4:30:28 PM

tomcannon05

Posts: 19
Joined: 4/23/2008
From: Cardiff, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: buggymangp

hey tom
i have been keeping up with your posts here and see you got hold of the linkage problem.
sorry i can`t take any pictures like the other guy did. but now you know how to do adjust linkages.
check on hpi web site. they might have something on how to install clutch springs and shoes.
or just look on how the old ones come off. but be careful. those clutch springs like to go south as you try to install them.
i must have a bunch behind my work bench. LOL

Thanks again buggyman, i did have a quick look on HPI but couldnt find any tutorials on it! This is a total beginner question but i dont have a clue where they go! i bought it as a recommendation and thought it would have instructions, oh well! I'l keep looking round but if anyone knows please stick it on here, cheers, Tom.

(in reply to buggymangp)

Post #: 1802

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM T... - 4/29/2008 7:33:21 PM

supersound99ss

Posts: 98
Joined: 7/8/2007
From: Dudley, NC, USA
Status: offline

Hey just got done breaking in my new firestorm and got a couple of questions. Where are you guys setting the HSN, im running a lil over a 1/4 from flush right now and the temps are in the 230's. Also how tight can the slipper clutch be set before you run the risk of hurting something. Oh and do your pull-starts making a metal clanking sound from time to time. Thx guys

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Rustler XL-5 venom 19t fireball, BB, Ram lite Redcat Tornado XL stock HPI Firestorm stock

(in reply to tomcannon05)

Post #: 1803

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/29/2008 8:35:46 PM

P Bear

Posts: 50
Joined: 1/5/2008
From: Yelm, WA, USA
Status: offline

First off Tom, I'm no expert on clutches. I ran my Thunder Tiger ST-1 with it's new LRP z.28 for about an hour before I realized I had lost half my front clutch bearing. Did something wrong there. I thought it was loose when I put it together. So I bought a pack of ten standard clutch bearings form A Main for $10 yesterday. Point is everyone makes mistakes but if you screw up it's not that expensive to fix considering how much fun these things are.

Page 39 of the Storm manual that comes with the car has an exploded view of the clutch assembly. I don't remember there being that many washers but there are more than the average number on the Storm. What I sometimes do is take pictures of every step of disassembly so if I forget how it went together I can refer to the pics.

The springs have a short leg and a long leg. Turns out after putting it together I read somewhere I did it exactly opposite to what I was supposed to and it works fine. So no big deal there.

I use two pieces of copy paper between the clutch bell gear and the spur gear when I tighten the engine down. Make sure it doesn't bind between gears.

You will need some strong needle nose pliers or flat nose pliers to install the springs.

Other than that just take your time. Once you do this stuff you will know and it will be much easier.

Be sure you have plenty of tools. Both plain end and ball nose end hex drivers in L shape and with handles. Large pliers to grip the flywheel. Small box end and open end spanners to hold nuts. Small flat and phillips screw drivers. Get a Dremmel and some cutting wheels to turn stripped phillips and hex bolts into flat blade screws, or maybe cut the bad boy off altogether.

< Message edited by P Bear -- 4/29/2008 8:47:01 PM >

(in reply to tomcannon05)

Post #: 1804

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/30/2008 12:36:11 AM

experimental_pilot

Posts: 509
Joined: 2/3/2005
From: Toronto, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Well, I mucked me engine up guys.
I was having trouble starting it up, so I opened it up to find this.
Something got into it somehow.

I can either Rebuild or Replace?

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(in reply to P Bear)

Post #: 1805

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/30/2008 2:39:36 AM

tokenring

Posts: 304
Joined: 11/27/2007
From: Burlington, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

... I think I might have done the same thing. Without opening my engine, what can you do to trouble shoot starting problems. Which way do you turn the throttle to increase it? My car, if it starts tried to rip away from me... now it's hard to start.

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*** Eclectic Powered Trucks ***

(in reply to experimental_pilot)

Post #: 1806

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/30/2008 3:05:26 AM

kordasn

Posts: 33
Joined: 4/30/2008
From: , ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Hi there guys, I just bought a firestorm, I live in Ontario Canada, I purchased it from Hobby Hobby in streetsville, I'm a 23 year old recently graduated Computer Engineer.

I hope to be browsing these forums commonly. I recently leased an '08 Nissan Versa as my primary vehicular transport, other cars are a '05 Yukon XL, '03 Buick Century and '95 Honda Civic, my brother also owns a '89 5L Mustang. My motorcycle is an '84 XJ750 Maxim. If anyone needs help with stuff like that, I can at least try.

At any rate, I read through about 10 pages, then the last page of this thread, and as much as I'd like to say I read the whole thing, it would be a lie. I have a couple of questions about my Firestorm. I've run it through about 10 tanks or so, but it's been REALLY hard to start, given that I had a 'bad' glowplug 'illuminator,' I actually bought a power-panel, which really helped quite a bit. However, sometimes it takes > 20 pulls to get the car to kick. Once it kicks it's max say... 5 pulls until it starts. So, would you figure a rotostart?

The car's been 'tuned' a bit by me, and by the guys at the hobby store, it was running horribly rich from stock, and now it's not bad, it has "about 6" of smoke when at full throttle." I have some other problems, I have to keep it faster-than-idle to keep it from stalling. I can adjust the idler screw, but I don't believe that it will achieve the goal I'm looking for. The guys at the hobby store suspect it's because it's a new engine. The main problem with this, is that the wheels are always turning > the car is always moving, or it has stalled. If I put the break on, the car stalls. How do I rectify this? I'm new to the R/C car business, I'd respect and desire any suspicions. I also broke the antenna 'straw'-thing when I launched it over a pile of rocks by accident, fortunately it didn't break anything else.

-Matt

Also I am up very late after this, and having a hard time forming cohesive thoughts, please forgive any mistakes. Enjoy!

(in reply to buggymangp)

Post #: 1807

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/30/2008 8:46:16 AM

P Bear

Posts: 50
Joined: 1/5/2008
From: Yelm, WA, USA
Status: offline

Kordasn, your clutch spring is off.

"The guys at the hobby store suspect it's because it's a new engine." I would refrain from taking any more advise from this hobby store.

I made a box to hold four "D" batteries in parallel. It simply has a strip of industrial steel banding sanded down on each side with the batteries in the middle. Same 1.5-1.6 volts but much more power. You will need a little steel shim on the negative side to make contact. I built the box with screws so I can adjust the pressure of the banding against the batteries. Use alligator clips on the banding for your glow plug igniter. Guaranteed easier starting. My own idea here to so kind of proud of that.

< Message edited by P Bear -- 4/30/2008 8:57:12 AM >

(in reply to kordasn)

Post #: 1808

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM TH... - 4/30/2008 12:24:40 PM

tokenring

Posts: 304
Joined: 11/27/2007
From: Burlington, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: kordasn

Hi there guys, I just bought a firestorm, I live in Ontario Canada, I purchased it from Hobby Hobby in streetsville, I'm a 23 year old recently graduated Computer Engineer.

I hope to be browsing these forums commonly. I recently leased an '08 Nissan Versa as my primary vehicular transport, other cars are a '05 Yukon XL, '03 Buick Century and '95 Honda Civic, my brother also owns a '89 5L Mustang. My motorcycle is an '84 XJ750 Maxim. If anyone needs help with stuff like that, I can at least try.

At any rate, I read through about 10 pages, then the last page of this thread, and as much as I'd like to say I read the whole thing, it would be a lie. I have a couple of questions about my Firestorm. I've run it through about 10 tanks or so, but it's been REALLY hard to start, given that I had a 'bad' glowplug 'illuminator,' I actually bought a power-panel, which really helped quite a bit. However, sometimes it takes > 20 pulls to get the car to kick. Once it kicks it's max say... 5 pulls until it starts. So, would you figure a rotostart?

The car's been 'tuned' a bit by me, and by the guys at the hobby store, it was running horribly rich from stock, and now it's not bad, it has "about 6" of smoke when at full throttle." I have some other problems, I have to keep it faster-than-idle to keep it from stalling. I can adjust the idler screw, but I don't believe that it will achieve the goal I'm looking for. The guys at the hobby store suspect it's because it's a new engine. The main problem with this, is that the wheels are always turning > the car is always moving, or it has stalled. If I put the break on, the car stalls. How do I rectify this? I'm new to the R/C car business, I'd respect and desire any suspicions. I also broke the antenna 'straw'-thing when I launched it over a pile of rocks by accident, fortunately it didn't break anything else.

-Matt

Also I am up very late after this, and having a hard time forming cohesive thoughts, please forgive any mistakes. Enjoy!

Hey Kordasn!!!

I'm in the same area and bought the same truck from the same store as you! Aren't they the best there or what!!! I'm having the exact same issue as you appear to be having. I don't think my engine is gone as I never ran it too lean. I always had a bunch of smoke coming out of the exhaust during each run. Are we supposed to prime it each time we try and start it??? Whenever I attempt to start it now, I always get a lot of gas in the exhaust... so when I lean it on the side for a second, it pours out!

... and if it starts, it tries to rip away like a mad truck. I heard this means that the LSN is set to lean so it's trying to accelerate so it doesn't choke. How do you know where the factory default is for the idle screw? Which way is LOW and which way is HIGH? Can someone please help us out and give some tips. I LOVE MY FIRESTORM WHEN IT RUNS

AB

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*** Eclectic Powered Trucks ***

(in reply to kordasn)

Post #: 1809

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM T... - 4/30/2008 2:47:27 PM

windowlicker

Posts: 297
Joined: 2/21/2008
From: Barton, North Lincolnshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

I highly recommend you read your manuals! Its all written there about which way to turn any screws to have a desired effect on tuning. If you don't have the manual, go on HPIs website and download it, print it out, or keep in on your hard drive, read and re read it until you understand the basics of the car, and then if you don't understand after that, then ask. Sorry, but asking how to 'return the engine to stock settings' on a forum is pure laziness!

Basically, if the engine is accellerating away when the controls are not being touched. You need to turn your engine off, and be prepared to take about an hour out, checking the linkages from the throttle servo to the engine and brake. As it says in the manual, you need the throttle servo arm to be perfectly in line with the servo body when the cars electrics are on. Centre that servo arm whilst your transmitters trim is set to the centre also.

Now you have the servo arm centred, with the electronics on, you need to adjust the linkage so that the carb is always opened by 1mm even when the brake is applied, that way you're not having to 'accelerate' just to keep and idle, and braking will no longer cause the carb to shut and the engine die.

All this has been covered in the last few pages by another member who took the time to take photos on how to centre the servo arm and check the linkages. Basically, don't trust the settings of the truck straight out of the box, even the manual says that you should check and adjust various parts before you even run in the engine. Be patient, do it by the manual, and you should be fine and not have to resort to asking the same questions that are raised again and again on this thread.

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Hellfire SS - GO .25 - DX3R - 5955TG - 5645MG - Speedtech Carbon

(in reply to tokenring)

Post #: 1810

RE: -=OFFICIAL HPI FIRESTORM T... - 4/30/2008 2:54:04 PM

windowlicker

Posts: 297
Joined: 2/21/2008
From: Barton, North Lincolnshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

tokenring, yes you have to prime the engine every time you start it. That 'fuel' that you say is coming out the exhaust is more likely to be oil from the burnt fuel, possibly from an over rich setting.

youtube has some great (traxxas) set up videos if you search for them. The tips all apply to any nitro engine though. Try things like the pinch test, where after you have the engine warmed up, pinch the fuel line and watch what the engine does. if it takes a while to build up revs (more than 4-5 seconds and revs high) then you probably have a rich setting that needs leaning out. If the