TexasSkyPilot
Posts: 3599
Score: 438 Joined: 2/2/2004 Last Login: 5/17/2013 From: San Antonio,
TX, USA Status: offline
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Hey, Paul. The Tru-Turn spinner that looks the most like the Decathlon is the Standard, but they don't offer it in a 3.5 inch. At least, not in the RED color plating. I opted for the : TT-3502 3-1/2" P-51 2-BLADE Aluminum Spinner I think its shape will compliment the SD, and it saved some money over some of the other shapes, which were also "close" but not perfect. Plus, the lower price of the P-51 style spinner allowed me to get mine cut for the Xoar propeller and get the Red color and still save some money. The 'Base' number I put above can be added to, for custom prop cuts and colors. Dan at RC Guys said that a Blue could also work well, because the striping on the side is blue, and it points right at the spinner. Makes sense. Black, of course, is always the new black, and the straight aluminum color is always a winner. The DuBro or Sullivan fuel dots both work well. If you're planning on flying at a giant scale meet, you'll want to have an IBEC for shutting the engine off from a switch on the radio. For a charging switch, pretty much any charging switch will work, but I prefer the double-pole switches, which add that extra margin of safety and functionality. I'm lucky on the smoke system, as the Syssas come with smoke taps built into the muffler. I keep a set of banjo bolts pieces on hand, should I decide to add smoke at any time. It's always some extra hassle, but at least the muffler hookups would be easy, should I decide to go ahead at some point. Because I held my everything-must-go, wheeling-and-dealing sale this past week, I ended up with two of my JR ST126MG servos back in hand, so I'll be using JR servos all around, for elevators and for ailerons. Plus, I've still got the JR 8611A for the rudder, and I found I had a beautiful 3" servo arm I got from Wild Hare that'll make a great rudder bar for that servo. Like you, I'm opting for the pull-pull setup. I'm hoping to cross my pull-pull wires to minimize any tendency to go slack. As for throttle linkage, my Syssa comes with a tiny (2mm?) ball link for the throttle, and I used some plastic tubing and inner plastic slide-rod, much like a Sullivan Gold-N-rod setup, with a threaded bit screwed into the plastic rod, and into the ball link near the engine. Back by the servo, I have a small piece of linkage wire with a threaded end, threaded part screwed into the plastic rod, and the smooth part goes through a set-screw linkage mounted to the servo arm (and that is the ONLY place I will use those set-screw linkages). I checked, and mine has no idle stop screw in it. I think it boils down to setting it up the way you want to. I like being able to trim it down to a stop, but the IBEC gives me an easy kill-option from a switch. If you have an IBEC, you can leave it in. If you don't have an IBEC, you can't kill it remotely if you have an idle stop screw in place. I probably mentioned this already. I have positively decided that I am going ahead with the videos for the build. I'm going to try and incorporate some of my earlier videos to supplement it. It took three videos just to cover installing the Robart Pin Hinges. That was a lot of work. I don't think there's any need for me to do a remake of those. What do you think? Dan has been responsive to all of my questions so far, so I feel good about going ahead with the video series. ~ Jim ~
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J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC, and T.I.T.O.R. - In July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .
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