LBRC
Posts: 126
Joined: 12/1/2006 From: , WA, USA Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Desert RC LBRC, how would you break in a new BB motor? I read on another site you posted on that you dont use water. The forum I stumbled onto was TINYrc.com I think, where I read this. Can you let me know your trick of the trade on a good break-in process on new motors out of the wrapper?? You read right, I am not a fan of even the best water break-in processes, went as far as to conduct a few side-by-side comparisons between water, lathe (no power), pulsed (Reedy and Associated) and others programmed in to many advanced chargers and motor monitors, and last but definitely not least for 130 and smaller motors a couple of good old AAA’s, measuring the results using a motor performance monitor for RPM and current on identical motors before and after break-in. In the end the Team Associated pulsed break-in procedure wins no surprise there, but a good solid close second place goes to AAA’s, where as water and surprisingly off-power break-in’s consistently fall way short, to add to that with water you risk damaging the motor. If you don’t have a charger or motor monitor with a pulsed break-in procedure my recommendation is to simply hook up the motor to a fully charged single AAA NiMH cell and let it run the battery down, that’s more than good enough but if you want to go a step farther hook it up to 2 AAA’s (2.4V) and let it run for an additional 20 minutes. In the end for a small motor there is very little measurable difference between that simple procedure and any thing else, the whole point is to simply smooth out the physical and electrical contact between the com and brushes before applying full power that can arc and pit them. However if you really want to go all out, before starting the break-in procedure put a drop of light weight oil on each bushing (not WD40 it contains a detergent/cleaner) and apply a com drop or break-in fluid sparingly to the commutator. mikemcnair Did a little playing around. The Micro-T servo wires work like this: Grey, servo power motor (–) changes with steering direction Blue, servo motor (+) changes with steering direction White to potentiometer Red to potentiometer Black to potentiometer also ground. By using the grey and white you end up with a perfect constant 3 volts for the LEDs even with a 7.4v LiPo pack. With a SR3500 DSM micro receiver I’d use a connector, along with a 100 ohm resistor on the red wire.
< Message edited by LBRC -- 7/30/2008 11:11:40 PM >
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