RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (Full Version)

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gfdengine204 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (4/27/2007 4:27 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: cwharper

When the rebate from Hobbico comes back.....


Rebate? What rebate? I never heard about a rebate...... LOL





gfdengine204 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (4/29/2007 12:56 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: ro347

THANKS GUYS....I TRIED THE 12X6 PROP...THRUST WAS GREAT. THIS IS MY FIRST PLANE...NOW I AM OFFICIALLY HOOOOKKKKEEEEDDD. NEXT PROP WILL BE THE 12X7; HAS ANYONE TRIED THIS YET?



ro,

I just picked up a 12x6E prop, and am in the process of training on this plane with an instructor. Any benefit to changing it out now, or should I wait til I am more proficient?

Thanks!




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (4/29/2007 6:27 AM)

GFD : prop will have you flying at slower speed with increase thrust ....I see it as more reaction time. (12x6 = Static thrust x distance per revolution)
See link:

http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/choosing_propeller.htm




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (4/29/2007 6:31 AM)

*




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (4/29/2007 6:33 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: cwharper

To everyone, better not plan on crashing your Electristar anytime soon. The replacement fuselage has made a disappearing act until June. Must be a lot of folks out there who have crashed theirs.



Check around online...I think i got the last one at Tower Hobbies ( Sorry)......but I have seen other retailers that carry it on the web and have stock.




cwharper -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/1/2007 12:29 AM)

Ok, just got the 12x6E and 13x6.5E APC props today and have already tested them. Lets start with the stock 11x7, it draws 28 amps at full throttle with freshly charged batteries (x2 3000mah nimh). The 12x6 draws 27 amps at full throttle and seems to have considerable more thrust. The 13x6.5 draws 33 amps at steady full throttle and seems to have more thrust than the 12x6. I was standing in the backwash holding onto the tail and it sure felt good in this 90 degree heat. I needed the standard size prop reamer to install these props and used one of the included spacers for a snug fit. So I left the 13x6.5 on and will try it tomorrow morning if the wind cooperates.

The 13x6.5 seemed to give it more power on land just taxing around. Just a couple of questions for someone who has flown the 13x6.5 on the Electristar. Does it seem to lift off sooner or more aggressively than with the stock prop? When it does lift off does it climb more steeply than with the stock prop?




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/1/2007 5:18 AM)

Carefull with that ground clearance using the 13" prop.




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/1/2007 5:19 AM)

Can anyone recommend a replacement for the main landing gear? I want something more solid than the OEM wire gear.




spacestout -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/1/2007 7:41 AM)

I agree with what ro347 says about props. Ultimately, you want to keep your amps under the limits for your motor, ESC. You have two main prop parameters; pitch and diameter. Increasing either one can move more air, and require more current/power/torque to do so. Leaving diameter fixed, increasing the pitch is like going with a taller gear. I believe it increases pitch speed. You won't accelerate as fast from a stop or climb steep hills as well, unless your speed is already up. So, it benefits your top-end speed. Holding pitch fixed and increasing diameter increases thrust (this is all relevant to the extent you have the motor power). Often, you have to go to a flatter pitch when you increase diameter to not go over on the amps. This is basically a lower gear. The motor winds up faster, you accelerate faster from a stop and climb steeper. Your top end will be slower. So, thrust vs. pitch speed. High gear vs. low gear.

I am running the 13x6.5 APC Electric on my Electristar now. I've never tried to see how short I could get off. And I haven't tested to see how long I can go straight up. But it is impressive. I've climbed out on takeoff at well over 60degrees. The pros at the field are amazed to see it doing crisp stall turns. I can even hold a knife edge pass and turn it. I can't wait to get to the field and see what else it will do.

I draw 35 amps full throttle. That's about 500 watts. Guessing 5.5 lbs. That ratio is over 90. 100 to 150 is used for 3D flying. We just have to be careful to not overheat things, being on the edge with the current. So, after takeoff and climb, back off the throttle to let things cool, the full throttle for a manuever, then back off to cool again. Known as throttle management.

Yes, the prop is closer to the ground. I raised my nose wheel as much as I dared. It's best to land on the mains and gently set the nose down. Wish I could do that more

As far as gear, I've been pleased with what comes on the plane. It takes a lot of abuse, absorbs shock, and is easy to bend straight.

Someone gave me a spare plane minus hardware. Glad to know I have that if parts are hard to find.




farmerhome -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/1/2007 6:24 PM)

What about a 3 Bladed Prop and what Size




cwharper -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/1/2007 6:25 PM)

Just tried the 13x6.5e this morning. Wow! what a difference! It leaps off the ground much more aggresively and has much more reserve now for very tight turns or for getting out of trouble. It flies about the same at cruise speed and has about the same battery life or maybe just a tad bit longer. This is a low cost performance upgrade.




cwharper -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/1/2007 6:27 PM)

It my understanding that three blades are less efficient than two blades and draw more current. People use them to get that scale look.




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/2/2007 1:05 AM)

13x6.5? Was that an APC prop?




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/2/2007 1:06 AM)

So would you give it "two thumbs up" over the 12x6 for those still gaining experience?




cwharper -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/2/2007 2:16 AM)

Yes, the 13x6.5e is an APC prop. Being a beginner myself I would definitely recommend the 13x6.5e now that I've tried it. Spacetout is correct though you will to use throttle management and not run it at full throttle all the time. What I've found is that it flies about the same at 3/4 throttle as the stock prop did at full throttle. The motor can handle the extra amps but the ESC might not. I keep forgetting that I don't have the stock ESC anymore. I have a CC 80 amp ESC now. The prop was balanced perfectly right out of the plastic (probably a rare thing) I have about an inch of ground clearance with this prop, maybe a tad more. This might become an issue if you're trying to take off from grass an inch or so high. But right now I'm flying at a harvested sod farm so a majority of the area is hard flat bare smooth land which works just fine. As I said before, a very cheap performance upgrade.

Well gotta go and get the batteries ready for another round tomorrow.





cwharper -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/2/2007 2:24 AM)

Spacetout, if you are using the lithium battery and I'm still using the nimh batteries then would you say that is the cause of the differences in our amperage measurements? 35 vs 33 amps at full throttle with the 13" prop? With the lithium batteries being able to dump their charge better than the nimh?

I'm going to spring for a lithium battery soon.




spacestout -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/4/2007 5:50 PM)

There could be a lot of reasons for 33 vs 35A. Inaccuracies in watt meters, differences in density altitude (airplanes don't care about the absolute altitude, they care about the air density presented to the prop and wings. Density is usually lower at high altitudes and is affected by temperature and humidity. When I fly my full scale plane I have to realize that the instruments can be in error and can tell a different story than absolute altitude and speed). The only way you'd know the reason for our difference for sure is to test them side by side with the same equipment. With that all said, I wouldn't be surprised if the battery types made a big difference. I'm no expert. I just started R/C in January and have most experience with LiPos. I am an electrical engineer so that helps some with the V and A. And I'm a private pilot so that helps and hurts.

I think the stock prop is great. I'd still have it on the plane if I hadn't broken it. I was pulling 28A with it (and that can vary depending on if your battery is peaked or not). It was the 11x7, so I tried that in an APC. What a surprise to find it only pulled 22A. Lesson number 1: All props are not created equal. Some of the calculation programs out there such as Aveox and Motocalc base their work on theoretical, but then test actual props to refine the model. I like to use such programs to get me in the ball park, but ultimately you have to experiment. The APC 12x6 gave me 28 amps and better (over stock) climb. The 13x6.5 APC has been the best. Full throttle on takeoff. Back off, set up for another manuever, then full throttle in the climb, then back off in descent. I land and all components are warm but not hot.

The bottom line is not burning out your components. Our problem has been that the specs for our motor have been hard to find. I noticed on my Great Planes Realflight simulator that the electristar specs said the motor was an electrifly Rimfire 42-50-600 Outrunner. 42mm diameter, 50mm length, and 600Kv (RPM per volt). I looked that motor up at http://electrifly.com/powersystem/motors/motors-rimfire-42-50.htm. There is a table with all the things you need to (such as internal resistance, no load current, etc) to enter into these calculation programs such as Aveox.com. It seems likely that our motor is this Rimfire motor. The simulator is made by Great Planes, who owns Electrifly, so it all ties together. My test data supports the specs as well.

So, our motor rating appears to be 35A continuous and 50A surge. That means with proper cooling you can run the motor at 35A, with occasional bursts up to 50A (then back off for cooling - throttle management). The ESC is rated at 45A continuous and 50A burst. So, drawing 35A with my prop at full throttle seems to be safe. Warm, not hot, components seem to bear this out. The Rimfire table shows using even larger props with this motor, all with current near 35A. Of course, it will all vary depending on battery, density altitude, humidity. Some day I may try a prop with more thrust as I get bored with trainer flight. I'll experiment on the ground to know the current draws at various throttle settings, then use full throttle for vertical manuevers and back off to safe settings.

A single blade prop is most efficient. It requires a counterweight. There are always tradeoffs in which parameter you are trying to maximize.




cwharper -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/8/2007 12:53 AM)

If you have an Electristar and your wings are in good to excellent condition, the next time you play with it would you see if the wings balance by themselves unattached to the fuselage? Use the same finger from each hand and lift the wings assembled at the midline.

Ok, and here's the reason I ask. Since I've crashed my Electristar and then completed some repairs on one wing half to the point where I think it's flyable again, my wing set does not balance at the midline, but I don't know if it ever did "out-of-the-box."

I can add 0.25 oz of weight to the tip of the light side to make it balance, but instead of adding weight can't I just shift the wing set toward the light side when mounting it on the plane to make it balance?




ro347 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/8/2007 3:18 AM)

Ummm I dont know if moving it over sounds like a good idea.




spacestout -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/8/2007 9:07 AM)

Hey Mr cwharper.

My wings also arrived out of the box unbalanced. I believe they tipped right, even when mounted to the plane. I wanted some color on the bottom so I could tell better when the plane was inverted. So, I put a band of yellow tape/monocoat on the bottom left outboard. Didn't do much. Some people advocate putting a screw in to the wingtip. I found that the unbalance wasn't a problem. There are so many imperfections (vertical tail alignment, control surface irregularities, etc) that on the maiden flight you will need to add some trim to get it to fly straight and level at a mid throttle setting. Lump the wing imbalance in and trim it out.

When checking COG or balance you always put your center of mass to the bottom. That way, it acts like a pendulum and the heavier weight pulls down and seeks a steady state of balance. If you get the center of mass above, you may be unstable with a tetter totter effect. That is why you balance your high wings with fingers under the wing, and low wings with your fingers on the top surface.

So, you may want to set your wing right side up on a table. It may be marginally stable, sometimes tipping to one side, or always tipping to the other. Then invert the wing and hold it along the center line. Does one side tip lower? Or is it more stable that way?

I've been fooled before thinking a plane was out of balance, but when checking properly it was correct.

One key is to mark the center of the fuse in front and back of the wing. Then, when putting the rubber bands on, make sure your marks line up. If you're careless here, you can have more wing hanging out on one side than the other and handling won't be consistent.




gfdengine204 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/9/2007 3:29 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: ro347

GFD : prop will have you flying at slower speed with increase thrust ....I see it as more reaction time. (12x6 = Static thrust x distance per revolution)
See link:

http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/choosing_propeller.htm


ro347,

Thanks for the link. I agree with you in seeing the positive as more reaction time. I am also looking for more thrust on the ground for takeoffs from our grass runway.




gfdengine204 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/9/2007 3:33 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: ro347

Carefull with that ground clearance using the 13" prop.


One way to get around the ground clearance with the 13" prop might be what I did; I installed some Great Planes 3 1/4" diameter treadless wheels replacing the 2 3/4" foam wheels that are stock. Perhaps this would lift the nose enough to clear the prop?




gfdengine204 -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/9/2007 3:37 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: spacestout
One key is to mark the center of the fuse in front and back of the wing. Then, when putting the rubber bands on, make sure your marks line up. If you're careless here, you can have more wing hanging out on one side than the other and handling won't be consistent.


spacestout,

I did a similar thing with my craft, where I marked the center of the fuse fore and aft of the wing saddle, so the centerline of the wing assembly can be lined up upon installation. Makes setup a snap. :)

(Also, I did the same thing with markings on the sides of the fuse just under the wing saddle to mark the COG location for easy reference. Using a matching color Sharpie and a small mark, you can't even notice.)




cwharper -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/12/2007 2:50 AM)

He He. Today my 5-cell lipo arrived. Made a shorting plug for one of the battery connectors and plugged the battery right in to the other connector. My Phoenix-80 controller beeped 5 times for 5 cells. Ok, now with the amp clamp meter attached and the 13x6.5 prop on, I made it about one click passed the half throttle point before it went over 35 amps. I throttled back down immediately let it run at low speed for a couple of seconds and then off. Tried the 12x6 prop next and it made it about three clicks passed the halfway point before it went over 35 amps. I guess if I want to continue to use this battery I'm going to have figure out how to set the throttle endpoint at the maximum 35 amps for whichever prop I'm using.


The lipo is about 6 oz lighter than the two stock nimh batteries. That makes the plane now 5.5 lbs. So with 18.5 volts at 35 amps I have broken the 100 watt per lb record on the Electristar. Can't wait to fly it with this setup




spacestout -> RE: Hobbico Electristar Select EP Trainer RTF (5/12/2007 9:11 PM)

Only your 18.5V LiPo is actually 21V when charged. The Rimfire specs show input voltage at 11.1V to 18.5V. Maybe they are talking the 18.5V class battery. The specs show prop sizes for 3,4 and 5 cell packs.

I hope you put a watt meter in line so we can the the V, A and P you measure.

Remember, the 35A is continuous current. You can make brief excursions to the surge current (I don't know for how long. I comes down to heat) max of 50A. So, I would use that power for vertical manuevers, then throttle back on the downhill and flats. You may be able to have a thrust ratio greater than 1. Wouldn't that be fun?

Keeping your components from overheating is one thing. The other is not overstressing the airframe. So, I'd be careful in going too fast.

Keep us abreast.




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