Posts: 131
Joined: 11/14/2007 From: Ocean City - Kensington,
MD, USA Status: offline
Copied from my notes from #22 thread (personally this message board could be split up better but oh well)
You seem to be on the right track with the plt, and the pzt dials. But just for a little more input on them I will share what I know. As you already know you cant change them without switching the #8 switch on the back to unlock. (to the left) The plt (pitch limit trim) Will adjust the range of the servos, If you turn to the left the range of the servos decrease, and to the right increases the range, This will affect the lift, and if you make the range too big it will be hard to control your height, a slight movement of your throttle will send your heli up way too fast and when you chop the throttle it will slam down. Another thing to remember is if you make the angle of the blades too aggressive too fast than it will over work the motor, and will not get your blades up to the proper rpm, and cause it not to climb. It will also cause the heli to spin harder to the left because the blades have too much restriction with a lot of pitch and are not cutting through the air smooth. The pzt ( pitch zero trim) is important to set right also. You want your heli to began lift around 60-70% throttle, you can do this by your pzt knob by turning it to the left to increase pitch, and to the right to decrease pitch. Something to know is if you make your heli lift at too low rpm it will cause it not to get up to rpm and cause it to fly heavy, and when you try to increase the throttle it will actually loose rpm, and altitude, and because the pitch will increase and the rpm will decrease the heli will began to spin more to the left and you will have to correct more with the left stick. The speed of the blades also helps create a gyro affect, and the faster they spin will make the heli more stable, if your blades do not get up to speed, flight will be more unstable. If the blades spin too fast before lift off it will cause the tail motor not to keep up with the blades, and cause your heli to spin to the left also. Try to adjust it around 60-70% is about perfect for smooth flight.
Posts: 131
Joined: 11/14/2007 From: Ocean City - Kensington,
MD, USA Status: offline
Ok group while I am definitely new to this hobby...
Apparently an inherent problem is with the arms and the ball pivot joint as you go up to the top near the blades. Usually solved by replacing with HM-22E-Z-38 .
As a possible fix.... I have this solution... although I did see on the thread make one out of brass of sorts.
I have used this technique on other plastic parts that a weak post or pinion... and obviously the little ball on the arm falls into that category.
Soooo.... what we do once the ball has broken off, usually left in the figure eight piece is insert a wire brace into the ball, push the ball and wire brace through the arm, and secure them.
Suggestion 1.) when trying to remove the broken ball from the figure eight put a large white sheet on the ground, so you will be able to find it if you lose control over it.
Now... what we use as a wire brace is a thin small sewing needle. First nip off the fat end where you would put the thread. Clean and sand (roughen up) the needle. Hold the plastic ball in a device that is secure but doesn't squeeze it to death. Put the needle in some thing... a vice, you third hand device or what ever that can take some heat. Make sure you have most of the needle... cut off end that has been roughened up out.
Now heat up the needle in the middle, shove into the ARM, not the ball, where the ball was broken off. You are essentially drilling a hole with the hot needle. DON'T twist the hot needle around, go in and out quickly, so you keep a tight fit.
Now the hard part. is you are going to do the same thing with the ball, but you will now leave the needle in the ball. Clean the needle if it has soot on the end. If it has melted plastic on it, that might be ok.
Secure the needle in a device, and the ball into another device. The trick is heating up the needle and then moving quickly it into the broken end of the ball fast enough that you can penetrate deep into the ball before the needle goes cold, and loses it's drilling by heat process.
The idea is heat the needle, stick, it into the ball, and leave it in. With the heat, it will fuse into the ball. You don't have to be dead on... you will see from the picture mine is crooked.
Clean (sand) any soot off the need in preparation for gluing. Sand BOTH sides of the arm where the ball used to be, where you heat drilled the hole previously so the glue will stick.
Stick the ball with it's now fused in needle through the arm, halfway. Put some glue on the needle on the side of the ball so when you push it completely through hopefully some glue will go into the hole. Push the ball down snuggly on the arm, add some more glue around the base of the ball (I used toothpicks) Place some glue on the opposite side of the arm so the needle sticking out will have "cap" of glue. Snip off the excess of needle once glue has completely dried
I used 5 minute epoxy because it wouldn't drip too much, and as it dries you can work it around the joint. Obviously don't work the unit too much because the initial set up is important. When you snip off the excess needle wait until it's all fully cured. Although it is 5 minute expoxy, I would give it over night to fully cure. The longer the better.
Well I haven't tested it yet.... but it really isn't too hard to do. And as long as the glue cements well the needle post should be quite strong, and relatively light weight.
Here's the picture... it's not pretty but my experience on other plastic projects using the heat needle fusing process has worked without glue.
Wish me luck as I fly tomorrow and I let you know the end result. If you could find a way to heat the needle up, as in a soldering iron, you could insert the needle into the arm backside, before use of a fresh unit, and a fresh unit would now be steel reinforced.
Some filing off of the glue around the ball so the figure eight connector fits properly might need to be done once the glue has dried completely.
Posts: 614
Joined: 5/3/2006 From: Reno, NV, USA Status: offline
Rob,
If you haven't heard before, a lot of us use LOSI ball studs to replace broken off balls. The part number is LOSB1051 and you can usually find them pretty cheap on ebay (I got some from RCBOYZ) or just do a Google search. A pack of 10 will really come in handy.
Posts: 131
Joined: 11/14/2007 From: Ocean City - Kensington,
MD, USA Status: offline
Oh.... so now you tell me... I like your idea much better
My local hobby shop may have them but I found a bunch on the net.
OK.. so now I've gotten to really fiddling around...
The plastic arm that connects directly to the servers, has three holes in it. Factory has the linkage connected to the center hole. I move it to the inside hole which makes the heliocopter less sensitive to control, ie easier to fly and less over correction. I found it impossible to reinsert the miniature brass connector, so I inserted a paper clip that fit snugly, using my heat drilling technique as the paper clip was fatter than the original hole. Bending over the paper clip on the ends so it wouldn't fall out. You may have to readjust (increase) the pitch of the blades. For a beginner it makes a big difference, and I like it. I would suggest ordering a couple of sets of the ball linkages HM-22E-Z-06 keeping your originals intact. I got this idea from here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8t-YHE18rs
Im sure some of you already know of this. I like the modification a lot... at least until I can control the helicopter for aerobatics.. which may be never
Posts: 131
Joined: 11/14/2007 From: Ocean City - Kensington,
MD, USA Status: offline
I have burned out two stock brush motors this week... I have heat sinks installed, and with heat sink paste. I took off the stickers on the motors to install the heat sink, which even exposes an extra air hole on the motor.
Maybe this is a bad lot on the motors. I could have installed the motors too tightly, and I did notice on the second burned motor (ie my second Exceed Eagle 50) I had the screw rubbing some what on the main gear. I am thinking this is the cause of the second motor burn out, but it flew great with no apparent loss of lift and speed. Although hand turning the main gear had been noticeable before I readjusted the motor, unfortunately after it burned out.
As another note for some of you that make your own "home page" to use on your computers, or design webpages... this will help you search without go to a site. It is coded for rcuniverse.com and google. Insert the form in your webpage or homepage. You will get a "box" to enter your search and a button for rcuniverse.com or all of the Web on google.
Posts: 51
Joined: 11/23/2007 From: Hudson,
FL, USA Status: offline
Some questions from an old Newbie All help greatfully appreciated..
Brand new Eagle 50 owner here. Totally inexperienced in RC of any kind.
1. Blade tracking.. Can anyone detail how this is done? What specific control rod needs to be adjusted and how? Do you really have to look this thing in the eye while the rotors are spinning at like 40%???, Or is there a better way LOL
2. Front to rear balance.. Has anyone gotten this thing to balance front to rear, while leaving the LiPobattery where it's supposed to be? Is adding weight inside the canopy the right option?
3. Flybar paddles... I've read in other forums that the paddles should be flat and level. My heli came with the flybar paddles set at exact opposite pitches.. That is, one tilted up and the other tilted down.. Any Help there?
Thanks in advace to all that take the time to help.. Any other hints and tips would also be greatfully appreciated.
Posts: 131
Joined: 11/14/2007 From: Ocean City - Kensington,
MD, USA Status: offline
ALWAYS turn on the Transmitter (Tx) first.. then plug the helicopter battery in. Reverse order to power down. Make sure you use the training balls. With electric tape or duck tape, tape the toggle switch top right to the NORMAL position. NOT 3d.
Blade tracking see picture below. You can tape the helicopter to the table, then stand back. You don't have to spin the blades too fast to get an idea of tracking, at least not fast until you figure out the throttle control control and when it lifts off. What look from the side to see if they are parallel, then look for the color tape which is tracking low. Adjust that side up.
Front to rear balance. They are tail heavy... some say two to three quarters (coin) in the nose taped securely.. you can tape outside in the beginning. Start with one quarter first.
Start off on a flat hard surface so the helicopter can slide around. You will be doing a lot of sliding around the first week or two.. yes that's right week or two. Get used to the controls, get a flight simulator, you can get them for $20 US. Don't even think about flying in a tight closed space at first, a large garage, may be ok. Outside don't even think about flying if there is any wind, fly in the morning or evening. Its good if you can take off on a hard surface and land on the grass... the helicopter will want to slide left... so maybe on a basketball court that has grass on the side to the left. Don't try to go to high... head high in the beginning is huge. AS SOON as you are crashing throttle off.
Posts: 51
Joined: 11/23/2007 From: Hudson,
FL, USA Status: offline
RobBeach:
Thanks so very much for your quick reply and all the great info.. Its very much appreciated.. The videos were also a great help.
I do have a flight simulator, in fact, two of them which I've spent a lot of time with.. FMS and PreFlight, and while neither have the Eagle 50, the PreFlight does have the Raptor and seems much more realistic. I just feel its time to get the real thing up and running properly and take it all outside and give it a try without doing major damage . I do have the training gear as well which will certainly go on before first flightsl
Posts: 614
Joined: 5/3/2006 From: Reno, NV, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: finchase4
1. Blade tracking.. Can anyone detail how this is done? What specific control rod needs to be adjusted and how? Do you really have to look this thing in the eye while the rotors are spinning at like 40%???, Or is there a better way LOL
2. Front to rear balance.. Has anyone gotten this thing to balance front to rear, while leaving the LiPobattery where it's supposed to be? Is adding weight inside the canopy the right option?
3. Flybar paddles... I've read in other forums that the paddles should be flat and level. My heli came with the flybar paddles set at exact opposite pitches.. That is, one tilted up and the other tilted down.. Any Help there?
Thanks in advace to all that take the time to help.. Any other hints and tips would also be greatfully appreciated.
finchase4,
Welcome to the madness!
Rob has some pretty good info there, but I'll just add my 2 cents...
1. Both the long linkage from the swash plate to the upper head and the short linkage to the blade grip affect tracking. Adjusting the length of the long linkage gives a fine adjustment and the adjusting the length of the short linkage gives a more coarse adjustment. The links are really made to go onto the balls one way, so you should really use full turns of the linkages. Of course this assumes they were put on correctly from the factory. If it seems really hard to pop the linkage on the ball, try giving it a half turn and see if it's easier.
2. Most of us on the 22E thread turn our battery sideways and push it up against the motor. I don't use the rubber O-rings provided. I have a rubberband wrapped around each end of my Lipo that I hook on the "hooks" of the metal plate so the ends of the Lipo stick out the sides and each rubberband is hooked on one front hook and one rear hook. Turning the battery will help with the tail heaviness. Another thing is to look at the tail boom where it attaches to the main frame. See if you can slide it forwards into the main frame any farther. I never liked the idea of adding weight to anything that flies. If your heli is still a little tail heavy, I have mine setup so that with the Tx sticks centered my swash plate has a very small tilt forwards to correct for the aft CG and a little tilt to the right to account for the thrust of the tail rotor.
3. The paddles should have no pitch and should be at an equal distance from the flybar tray.
Posts: 51
Joined: 11/23/2007 From: Hudson,
FL, USA Status: offline
JT:
Thanks so much for your info as well.. I'm learning very quickly that every little bit helps. Your info on the links from the swashplate was something I didnt realize.. Blade tracking is the next major step for me so it will come in very helpful. Any thoughts on the ball joint pliers I've seen on several sites for removal and re-attachment of those links?
I'll also try turning the battery sideways with the elastic bands and see what that does for CG.. Will also check the tail boom.. (another thing I wouldnt have thought of . I did try quarters taped to the nose and did achieve a level CG, but it took 5 quarters to do it which equaled 34.5 grams to get the job done.
I've tried to read as many of the posts on the 22e thread as I've had time for that seem relevant as well, but like all new things I'm at the point where I'm not sure what it is that I even need to know, or understand. I'm confident that I'll get there sooner or later, just dont want to bend too many parts along the way from being stupid
Posts: 614
Joined: 5/3/2006 From: Reno, NV, USA Status: offline
I haven't seen any ball link pliers that are small enough. I usually try to "roll" the link off between my thumb and forefinger. If they're really tight, I use a small pair of needle-nose pliers with one tip on the ball and the other on the back of the link. I haven't had any trouble getting them back on.
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 
RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 
I like your idea much better 
All help greatfully appreciated.. 
