RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 3 4 [5] 6 7 8   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/6/2008 8:07:59 PM   
Big_Chuck_Ousley


 

Posts: 21
Joined: 12/2/2007
From: Roswell, NM, USA
Status: offline 		Rob It wasnt so much about just the reciever being bad but what I was so itched about was that there is a problem with the recievers they knew about. The product is said to have been flown before it leaves the factory. Upon my first flight my Eagle 50 wasnt as promised so they are false advertising!


They say everyone gets a lemon every now and then. I made my lemonade and drank it. Good luck to those who get their Eagle 50 or whatever similar.

(in reply to RobBeach)
       Post #: 101

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 2:00:47 AM   
rparn2



Posts: 94
Joined: 12/28/2007
From: Tulsa, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Rob the info was very helpful think my main motor is gone have ordered a new one hope to be up and running in a few days still have not got my helicopter of the ground hope to very soon thanks again rick

_____________________________

Honey Bee FP, Eagle 50
Belt CP I am a crash dummy

(in reply to RobBeach)
       Post #: 102

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 2:34:17 PM   
rparn2



Posts: 94
Joined: 12/28/2007
From: Tulsa, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Stupied question can anyone tell me how to tell if the mainblades are on upside down replaced my mainblades not sure if I got them on in the correct side coplete newbie or idiot thanks for the help in advanced Rick

_____________________________

Honey Bee FP, Eagle 50
Belt CP I am a crash dummy

(in reply to rparn2)
       Post #: 103

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 5:04:33 PM   
RobBeach


 

Posts: 134
Joined: 11/14/2007
From: Ocean City - Kensington, MD, USA
Status: offline 		The blades should be symmetrical.... the blades spin clockwise...
But you can buy blades that are not symmetrical but the ones that came with
the helicopter are.
You probably already figured out that by now.

A little hint I discovered when trying to trim the blades out.. ie tracking one above the other.
Put a piece of tape... farther out than the other... for tracking.
When you buy new blades get the plastic ones.. they last forever...
and on these you will need to put your own tracking tape on.

So with one piece of tape farther out than the other... it is easy to see if that
blade is higher or lower than the other.

and to Chuck... I understand your frustration...
not to mention (or repeat your supplier), but I have some doubts about those
guys... although some people say they are Ok..

R.

(in reply to rparn2)
       Post #: 104

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 5:29:44 PM   
jtspin


 

Posts: 614
Joined: 5/3/2006
From: Reno, NV, USA
Status: offline 		The fat edge of the blades and the paddles is the leading edge and is the edge that should cut into the air as the rotor spins.

-JT

(in reply to RobBeach)
       Post #: 105

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 7:46:09 PM   
RobBeach


 

Posts: 134
Joined: 11/14/2007
From: Ocean City - Kensington, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Also... to mention... that the batteries have memories.. so if you constantly recharge them
every time you come inside you are shortening their life.
And you definitely will not have enough power for lift with a 1/10th life battery.
I usually fly a bunch... with crashes and then come back to the backyard for some test
hops and trims and the battery is down so I'm not getting the power to lift substantially ...
I recharge...

To lengthen the life of the motor... it's probably not a good idea just let the motors spin to drain the battery
out... it probably starts working the motor more, with low battery, against the friction of the
components. The motors are most likely made to run at a specific power/battery/spin rate range
for endurance. Again.. I will stand corrected.


(in reply to rparn2)
       Post #: 106

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 8:11:58 PM   
GTX SlotCar



Posts: 2064
Joined: 10/7/2005
From: Gorham, ME, USA
Status: offline 		Memory effect in batteries is a popular belief, but mostly only a myth. What most people refer to as memory effect is actually "voltage depression".
LiPo and Li-Ion batteries, and NiMH batteries don't have a memory. To some extent, NiCad batteries do, but not in practical use. For a NiCad battery to develop a "memory", it would have to be continuously charged to the exact same voltage and discharged to the exact same voltage (like to the 1000th of a volt) several times. The only practical way to do this and ensure success would be in a lab. It would have to be done intentionally.



_____________________________

Gary
SuperSkids® www.super-skids.com

(in reply to RobBeach)
       Post #: 107

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 8:27:23 PM   
RobBeach


 

Posts: 134
Joined: 11/14/2007
From: Ocean City - Kensington, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Cool thanks GTX... I use a lot of NimH's... and they become dead.
Maybe it's just the life of the recharging ability of those that I have
my experience with... as a newbie... to this hobby.. and thus Lipo's
I thank you for the info. Thusly... what you are saying...
"go a head and recharge" the lipo's without worry that multiple
recharging won't shorten their life. Which works for me !
I'd rather be charged than die in mid air !!!
thanks again... !!

R.


And as we are talking batteries (power) what are your comments on
running the motors on low battery power ie motors running on low battery
and thusly wearing the motors out quickly....

Basically... as newbies we spend a lot of time on the ground... jittering
around at low power getting the feel of things.
As compared to the motor running at say 80% power in flight.
For me... it seems lots more flight time "flying" then powering around at
low "power" on the ground.
Maybe it's more "friction" jittering on the ground than flying that wears
the motors out.

Thanks GTX !!!

< Message edited by RobBeach -- 1/7/2008 9:06:50 PM >

(in reply to GTX SlotCar)
       Post #: 108

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/7/2008 10:36:28 PM   
GTX SlotCar



Posts: 2064
Joined: 10/7/2005
From: Gorham, ME, USA
Status: offline 		The properties of NiMH and LiPos are very different. I think a lot of the problem with short lifespans on NiMH batteries has to do with using a cheap charger. It's hard to know when the charge is done, so we easily undercharge them or overcharge them and get them hot. Plus, most of them have 650mAh cells, which saves on weight, but doesn't give much flight time. I haven't done a comparison with 10 cell NiMH packs and 3S LiPos, but an 8 cell NiMH pack of 650mAh is about the same weight as a 2S 1300mAh LiPo.

Scooting around on the ground is not as efficient as hovering, and hovering is not as efficient as forward flight. But, actually flying your heli will come with time. The learning process only seems long while you're going through it.

Running the power low is not a good thing to do. With a LiPo pack, running a cell below 2.6v can pretty much kill it. To be safe, not going under 3v per cell is common. With NiMH packs, a cell is pretty much powerless once it gets to .9v. Doing this won't kill the cell, but if you can manage to get it close to 0, bad things can happen. Not all your cells will draw down equally, so if one cell gets very low, the other cells in the pack will "backcharge" it. This is very bad (also happens with LiPos). Basically, it's an unregulated charge, and it can harm your cell, and therefore the pack.
I've generally found that a stock heli with stock motor, gearing and blades, will lose the ability to lift out of ground effects before the battery gets dangerously low. But, it's a good idea to check your voltage when the battery is low to be sure your heli isn't the exception. Any "hot" or "fast" aftermarket motor, and almost all brushless motors, are an exception and probably will have the power,even at low voltage, to lift. That's why brushless ESCs have a low voltage cut-off built in. In most cases, though, with the stock stuff, just stop flying when the heli won't lift out of ground effects anymore. But, check it.

_____________________________

Gary
SuperSkids® www.super-skids.com

(in reply to RobBeach)
       Post #: 109

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/8/2008 12:42:33 AM   
raven1245


 

Posts: 5
Joined: 1/8/2008
From: Provo, UT, USA
Status: offline 		So I've been lurking around a bit, soaking in all the info here, but I knew my time would come to ask some questions.

1. I replaced the flybar, and can't remember exactly how tight it was. I have it so the paddles are connected to the bar and can't move, but the bar itself rotates around (the paddles rotating with it). Is this how it was before? I'm thinking it would just correct itself in flight anyways, but just wanted to make sure.

2. The reason I had to replace the flybar. I was out trying to fly, but when I would power up it would wobble around (I think it was just a little unbalanced with a repair I had done). So I had taken it inside on the kitchen table and taken off the main blades, and was testing some things. Then it all of a sudden powered up to full power (My controller was on, but I hadn't touched anything), jumped up and hit my hand (close to needing stitches), then fell to the floor. Then today while I was replacing the flybar, I had powered it on without the bar or blades and it seemed fine. Then a little later it just went to full throttle again. This second time the remote was on, but I didn't have the antenna on it. So is the problem just the heli losing the signal from the remote or something else? I'm a little scared to fly it not knowing if it's just going to power up and fly away!

(in reply to Big_Chuck_Ousley)
       Post #: 110

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/8/2008 4:23:31 AM   
jtspin


 

Posts: 614
Joined: 5/3/2006
From: Reno, NV, USA
Status: offline 		raven1245,

Welcome!

1) The flybar should not rotate. It won't fly properly if it does. More than likely, the two "ears" on the ends of the flybar tray have broken off. (See the attached photo) The fix is to drill a small hole parallel to the flybar through the metal collar into the flybar tray and then insert a paper clip to keep the collar from rotating.

2) Sorry to hear that. These things can be pretty touchy. Make sure your Tx is always on (with the antenna at least partially extended) anytime you connect the battery to the heli. It's a good idea to disconnect the motors anytime you're adjusting anything with the battery connected.

-JT

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to raven1245)
       Post #: 111

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/8/2008 4:28:13 AM   
jtspin


 

Posts: 614
Joined: 5/3/2006
From: Reno, NV, USA
Status: offline 		There's more battery information than you ever wanted to know here:
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/

-JT

(in reply to jtspin)
       Post #: 112

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/8/2008 4:30:38 AM   
jtspin


 

Posts: 614
Joined: 5/3/2006
From: Reno, NV, USA
Status: offline 		Hey guys!

I just noticed that eBoyzToyz has all their Venom NR3D parts on closeout (same heli as the Eagle 50 and Walkera 22E). I've never ordered from them, but a quick search didn't turn up anything negative. The Venom parts start here:
http://www.eboyztoyz.net/index.php?op=showcloseouts&page=15

-JT

(in reply to jtspin)
       Post #: 113

RE: Exceed RC Eagle 50 - 1/8/2008 5:14:02 AM   
rparn2



Posts: 94
Joined: 12/28/2007
From: Tulsa, OK, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for all the help on the main rotor blades did have then on backwards. waiting on parts I am having trouble with the reciever keeps burning out is there an up grade to the stock one also lost main blade motor is the brushless more durable. If so what all is needed to run the brushless moror. Thanks again all and happy flying Rick

_____________________________

Honey Bee FP, Eagle 50
Belt CP I am a crash dummy

(in reply to jtspin)
       Post #: 114