Posts: 173
Joined: 6/21/2004 From: Hudson,
MA, USA Status: offline
Hello all Welcome to my winter project. I have decided to tackle Glenn Torrance Models Hanriot HD1 this winter. My dream goal is to have it done for Dawn Patrol 2007 in Dayton. This is my first build along that I have posted on line so please bear with me.
This is my first GTM plane kit, I have built his cockpit kit before. I have to say that I’m very impressed with the detail of the kit there is over 1,400 parts that come in the kit. This kit comes with just about everything that you will need to put it together including the scale features like turn buckles.
The plane I plane #6252 belonging to Alessandro Resch of 70a squadriglis.
Posts: 173
Joined: 6/21/2004 From: Hudson,
MA, USA Status: offline
Well I’m jumping right in and starting to stain and glue. I have the sides together and the headrest and seat done so far. I used ¼ inch foam for the seat and headrest instead of the cotton balls. I was worried that I could not get them in and keep them there while I glue the leather to the back of the seat and head rest. For the sides it’s just your typical lay and pin to the building board over the prints. Glenn doses a great job of calling everything out with part numbers that relate to the BOM. For the other side I just laid the next side over the top and glue, this should produce identical sides.
Posts: 4311
Joined: 4/1/2003 From: Springfield, VA, Status: offline
Looking foward to your build. As you probably already know there was another GTM Hanriot build on this site this past year. Randy did a really good job and the plane is a solid flyer.
Posts: 173
Joined: 6/21/2004 From: Hudson,
MA, USA Status: offline
Hey Bob Yes I fallowed Randy’s build along very close and I learned many little things along the way. I going to try to do some of the little extra that Randy did on mine. I’m looking forward to all the different ideas that I’m going to hear for some of my upcoming questions.
Posts: 173
Joined: 6/21/2004 From: Hudson,
MA, USA Status: offline
Well today is fuselage day. I had the sides done yesterday and today it’s time to box it all together. I started off with the dashboard and the landing gear mounts. Once the epoxy had dried I then added the top and bottom supports to the fuselage. I did leave the tail open at this point so I can finish it up last and let the epoxy dry over night. I liked putting the remaining formers on from the headrest back to get ride of that box look and start to have it take shape. Last it’s time to close the tail up, there is a lot of force here pulling the tail open so I plan on using 5-minute epoxy to get some extra holding power.
Posts: 173
Joined: 6/21/2004 From: Hudson,
MA, USA Status: offline
I put the seat together the other day when I did the headrest. I'm using the stain that Glenn calls out in the instructions it’s called Behlen’s Solar-Lux the color is Golden Fruit. I plan on staining the fuselage this color. The mounting for the seat is pretty simple, two alum tubes running along the side and two wooded dowels running across under the seat. The alum side rails are cut to length and then the ends are pinched. I think I must have been just a little too close for this picture. The alum tubes are then marked and holes are drilled into one side of the tubes for the dowels to slide into. The frame is mounted with four screw & nuts. I will remove the frame later and paint it black to match the cockpit area. Once everything is back in I will glue on the seat itself.
Posts: 173
Joined: 6/21/2004 From: Hudson,
MA, USA Status: offline
I changed up the side cabling a little. Glenn provides .028 dia braded steel wire, I plan on using .038 dia Kevlar thread. The .038 dia Kevlar has a tensile strength of 130 lbs. That should be a fine replacement for the steel wire. The Kevlar comes in a nice yellow color that will need to be stained black. I drilled the holes in the side with a .050 dia drill bit using a small finger drill. I used a piece of scrap brass (.010 thk) as a shield so I would not dig into the frame as I angled and flex the drill to go thru the side post and not down into it. I then passed the Kevlar thru the holes and glued it in place after pulling it tight.
Posts: 173
Joined: 6/21/2004 From: Hudson,
MA, USA Status: offline
The bellcrank is made up two piece of I think fr4. The one on the left is after sanding and the one on the right is right off the laser. These two parts get glued together and then the alum tube gets glued in the center of the of them. There is a wooded dowel that is cut down and sanded to left the bellcrank slide on easy and rotate freely. I will paint the bellcrank black when I find my black jar of Testors black paint that is not dried rock solid. The last picture is of the side cables glued in place.