RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252   
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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/7/2007 2:10 AM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Looks great with the wings on!!.. very nice

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/7/2007 9:52 PM   
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Status: offline 		This is for all you riders out there. Who just need to have a radial.

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 2:38 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		I have been working some more on the rudder and vertical fin. The outline of the rudder is made from three laminated sections (balsa-ply-balsa). The parts fit together nicely. The control horns for the rudder are built into the bottom plywood rib. There are two control horns made from FR4 that need to be cleaned a little before they can be glued onto the rib.

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< Message edited by Babblefish7 -- 2/11/2007 9:50 PM >

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 2:40 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		humm not sure what happen there for the pic to be so big. if anyone know what I did please let me know.

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 2:50 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		I think you didn't check their size before downloading them? Any way.. you just have to love the engineering that Glenn puts into his kits. His engineering are the way kits should be made..

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 3:29 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Mark,

Another "for what it's worth..." The elevator as you remember has a couple of aluminum collars near the outboard hinges to keep it in allignment. I don't think the rudder calls for a collar, but I added one near the bottom hinge, as there really is nothing to keep the rudder from moving up and down..except for the fabric covering....I think I waited till after assembly though, and aligned everything first, I then split the collar and CA'd it in place...I might have a picture.....You can just see it at the bottom hinge location...the extra wood is there to give the fabric something to stick to...

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 3:42 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Randy on your vertical fin there is the pin that stick out from the bottom dose that get glued into the stab? on the wodden dowl just slips into the caller when the assy is together?

I will be adding a caller like you did on the rudder to keep it from sliding. I liked the idea of adding extra wood around the hinge opening for the covering to connect to.
Mark

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 3:45 PM   
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Status: offline 		Ok I’m back on to cabane struts and attaching the top wings. As I pointed out on page two I used a drill to make a small guide in the root ribs. Now is the time to see if this idea worked out. I used a small drill on the top and bottom to open the grove up to the brass rod inside. I then drilled into the top of the tube and did the same from the bottom. It worked out very well all I have to do now is step up the sizes to 3/32”. in the last picture you see the brass rod that will slide in the tube half way. I will have to drill a hole threw that later when the the wings are ready to be set in there position.

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< Message edited by Babblefish7 -- 2/11/2007 9:54 PM >

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 3:48 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Ok The pictures are on the big size in bites but they are around the same size as the all my othere posts. so not to sure whats going on.

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 4:09 PM   
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Status: offline 		Mark,

The little pin at the front part of the fin fits into a hole that you will eventually drill into the stab. In one of the hardware packs Glenn provides a short piece of brass (or aluminum) tubing. This piece of tubing will fit over your fuselage tail post, and the dowel that forms the aft outline of the fin then fits into the brass tube....the whole fin assembly is held in place with the bracing wires that will be installed..It isn't glued at all...mine is still removeable, but don't forget the bracing wires!!

Randy


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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/10/2007 4:11 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		just looking to see if i can fix the picture issue

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/12/2007 1:25 AM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Thanks Randy,
I did forget about the wires, but I did want to have a mechanical hold for that just in case.
I have been working on getting the tail feathers attached to the fuse. On the full scale the last section of tail is left exposed, so I wanted to try to make my square stick look a little bit more scale. There is still sanding to be done but that will have to be done later. The stab is mounted to the fuse by four nuts. The rear studs have screws on them to adjust the indene. The vertical fin is held in place with a pin up front and a tube at the rear. I decided to change the front pin to a threaded rod that will go threw the stab and be held in place with a nut on the bottom.


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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/12/2007 2:49 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Mark,

Looks as though you've got it all sorted out. You will be suprised at how much strength the bracing wires add to the tail section. It is never "rock solid" though...when I restrain the airplane for run-ups and range testing I run a strap through the gear legs and cross over the fuselage to a stake behind the model...I would never restrain it only by putting a strap around the stab....

Also there are those aluminium struts that go from the fuse bottom to the stab for support....it really is very secure...you could drill and pin that aluminum collar on the tail post.....

You are making excellent progress....Have you picked an engine yet? I was originally going to use a Saito 180 but just could not make it fit and leave room for the fuel tank..
The Roto may be the best choice...it fits nicely, is heavy which is good, and doesn't need a big fuel tank......I just wasn't willing to use gas...!

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/12/2007 1:40 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Hey Randy,
Yep got it all set, its coming together really good. The big box of parts is starting to get empty. I think I'm going to get the Roto-25 for the engine. Since it dose fit and that is what Glenn used for power it should be fine. I know the build is going to slow down once I hit the little scale items that I want to do.

Mark

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/13/2007 10:20 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Mark, Wow! another awsome project. Can I fly it yet? I mean since I can't seem to get you out flying. Just kidding! I can't wait until you bring it in for show and tell. Bob

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/14/2007 8:16 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Hey Bob,
Ya ya ya about the flying… its winter you stay indoors and build… build… build… I don’t care to go out and scrape the icicles off my wings before I got to start the engine every time I want to fly. Flying should be on a nice WARM sunny day not in the 40’s. We will get out and fly this spring with the new toys.

Mark

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 2:54 AM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Randy,
I have two dummy engine and some screw on order with mick reeves. thanks for the suggestion to use theres. The second engine is for a Nieuport 11 that was given to me to bring back to life after a hard landing. I will be posting pic whne this one is done.
Mark.

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 4:33 AM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Ya know that Mick's small screws are all phillips head screws. The issue has come up that those wern't invented back in WWI.. I have some of those myself and I am using some of them.. not sure if that's the right thing to do tho.?

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 6:42 AM   
mdelzer


 

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Status: offline 		Mark,

Have you looked into the Roto 35 at all? From center crank to the top fins it is 111mm and the 25 is 108mm. According to RCS the plug cap adds 23mm from the top of the fins to it's height from center crank. The only factor I see maybe being an issue is that it is 20mm longer, which may or may not work out. I know that Glen told me he still added about a pound and a half to the nose with his Roto 25 in his.

Mark

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 4:54 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Thanks Bob for the heads up on the screws. If they are going to be in a visible area I will just add a little JB-Weld to them and cut the slots back in. I don’t think I’m going to be doing too much competition with this plane but I will do a little just to get into it and see what I need to have. Tom K. (who is building the ½ scale Fokker) lives a few towns over so he is going to give me a little help on the paper work side of things.

Mark, I have looked at the Roto-35vi and went back and fourth with that one and the Roto-25. I went with the 25 due to the little bit extra nose length and the width. I wanted to make sure that the muffler didn’t run itself too far into the side wall of the fuse and the frame. The engine wall will be around one inch back from the firewall so the puts it into the wall of the front fuse frame. That is one reason for changing over from the Brison I have, but the Brison will slide into the next project a Neiuport 11.

Mark P.

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 5:10 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Randy,
Here are a few quick shots of the parts that I made on the Laser. The beam is about .010 wide. I just draw up what I want made, tell the program what side of the line the beam should be and cut. The hard part is getting the little parts out of the scrap trap usually the parts are big enough to sit on the table and not fall in the scrap.
Mark

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 5:22 PM   
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Those sure look nice, looks like that laser can save the fingertips from an errant file stroke!!

I think you will be amazed at how small Mick's #000 screws are. You can't tell if they are rivets or screws from two feet away...The dummy engine will take some modification, but its not too tough. It is a great kit to use as a starting point.

Glad you solved the engine issue. I was looking at a Moki that looked like it would work also..but gas is probably the better choice.

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 5:52 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		I’m slowly moving out of glow and into gas it seams. I like the clean and cheaper of the gas. Got tired of cleaning off red or green goupe from the side and tail of the plane. Adding some weight will be a good thing this way I can really secure the dummy engine without and worry’s of being nose heavy.
I will take a few pictures of the parts that I will be making with the laser once they are cut out. It sure dose save on the finger tips. It’s nice the detail you can do with it. I plan on doing the prop hub with the laser and then putting studs in it to hold half of the nuts on, the other half will be the bolts from the engine.

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 6:30 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Wow how cool is it having a laser ! I'd love to have one for things just like that.. Can you give me any about yours?..

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RE: GTM Hanriot HD1 #6252 - 2/16/2007 7:16 PM   
Babblefish7



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Status: offline 		Bob,
Its all about friends with the right tools.

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