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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pylon Universe - RC Pylon Racing >> Q-500 Racing >> Paint, what are the options?
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Paint, what are the options? - 12/18/2006 2:59:01 PM   
wkevinm


 

Posts: 141
Joined: 9/17/2004
From: Sherwood Park, AB, CANADA
Status: offline 		Is there a post anywhere that describes the various types of paint that can be used. I most recently used Endura (polyurethane), it is very good paint but I do not have the right equipment (very hazardous, need a fresh air system for safe use). I would like to understand what options there are. I would like a water based paint that can be used in spraying on Mylar for a vacuum bagged wing. I also would like a water based paint that can be used on light Fiberglass cloth 1/2 oz or 3/4 oz. on a fuselage, and that will sand easily. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks
Kevin M.
       Post #: 1

RE: Paint, what are the options? - 12/18/2006 6:58:52 PM   
daven



Posts: 6911
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		The Nelson System 3 paints are water soluable, but I never liked using them. Worth checking into though. Epoxy paints aren't that bad in terms of toxicity. You could check them out at www.klasskote.com I've used them quite a bit.

_____________________________

Dave Norman

klasskote.com
supertrc.com

(in reply to wkevinm)
       Post #: 2

RE: Paint, what are the options? - 12/18/2006 7:06:20 PM   
rmenke


 

Posts: 1783
Joined: 6/25/2004
From: Merced, Ca., CA, USA
Status: offline 		Guy: Life is all too short once you pass say 30 and its nice to hit 70 as long as you function well. What I am getting at is do the safety thing first, and then evaluate the various paintilng systems. Coming up with the best that works for you is great as long as you have not killed yourself in the process. As to foam type paints for electrics, go to your local crafts (not necessarly hobby) store and look at their water based paints. I bought A BUNCH of "apple barrel colors" paint on sale and was supprised to find how good the stuff is and easy to use. Not glow fuel proof, but for the foamys, its great. You can spray which I do or hand brush with almost equal finish. If you want a outstanding paint job, go to the "Klass Coat" web site and order what you need of this epoxy paint. This stuff works easy, is very forgiving and provides a wonderful finish. Use their thinner and a cheepie for cleaning up. There is simply no substitute for quality. Like making love, it takes a while to become a outstanding producer, but the little effort is well worth the effort. If you can't afford this or that, don't try until you can have the safety tools you need. If you can't wait, get another job. Does not kill you to work 16 hrs a day, still leaves 8 or so for the rest of the stuff like sleep. By the way, have been enjoying the hobby since 1949. There are others on the net that are paint nuts and do wonderful work with krylon or other systems. Keep it simple and become good at your chosen system before moving on to something else, and above all, ENJOY.

(in reply to wkevinm)
       Post #: 3

RE: Paint, what are the options? - 12/18/2006 9:35:51 PM   
DHG


 

Posts: 896
Joined: 4/24/2002
From: Arvada, CO, USA
Status: offline 		Kevin,

The Nelson paints are nice but I couldn't make them work on Mylar. The trick with Nelson paints, I found, is to use many very light coats and allow each coat to partially set before spraying the next coat. Gently fanning it with a heat gun helps. I keep a bucket of water handy and simply submerge the spray gun (not the paint cup) in the water while I'm using the heat gun. If you don't do that, the paint will start to set in the nozzle of the spray gun and you'll have to clean it repeatedly, which is a pain.

For painting on Mylar, go with the Klass Kote. It's not terribly toxic; just use an ordinary spray mask and good ventilation and you'll be OK.

Duane Gall
RCPRO

(in reply to wkevinm)
       Post #: 4

RE: Paint, what are the options? - 12/18/2006 9:42:39 PM   
DHG


 

Posts: 896
Joined: 4/24/2002
From: Arvada, CO, USA
Status: offline 		p.s. The Nelson primer is water-based (water cleanup, anyway) and sands very well once it's thoroughly cured. A thorough cure takes at least 24 hours. To fill the weave of 3/4 oz. cloth, a good alternative would be several coats of Minwax Polycrylic wood finish, possibly with some talc, corn starch, or baby powder mixed in. Wet-sand lightly with #400 between coats.

The Minwax does require ventilation. The Nelson primer doesn't, at least not nearly as much.

D.

(in reply to wkevinm)
       Post #: 5

RE: Paint, what are the options? - 12/22/2006 10:25:07 PM   
jaka


 

Posts: 4538
Joined: 12/11/2001
From: Upplands Vasby, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		Hi!
Sikkens 2- part autocryl laquer...sprayed outside!
Very Toxic.

_____________________________

Jan Karlsson Airracing products
MVVS, Motul "Micro" all synthetic oil

(in reply to wkevinm)
       Post #: 6

RE: Paint, what are the options? - 1/5/2007 8:57:08 PM   
ptxman


 

Posts: 351
Joined: 7/31/2002
From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
Status: offline 		You might want to look into AutoAir. It is water based & is likely available in your neck of the woods, at least I know it is in Calgary. The website lists some Cdn dealers. I recently bought some of their video's showing many spray applications ranging from full size cars to bike helmets using a guns from big HVLPs to airbrushes & all forms of color/masking techniques. The final stage would have to be clearcoated much like a base-coat clear-coat system. Typically most of the good auto clears are probably similar to Endura from the nasty isocyanate standpoint, but at least you have confined that to 1 final coat.

Some other advantages Im crossing my fingers on
- a huge range of colors including candies, chamelions, semi-transparent etc starting in modeler friendly volume 4 oz bottles.
- because its water based, no problem shipping from the bigger USA retailers, its non-hazardous.
- relatively fast cure (5-ish minutes flash time & which can accelerated by a heat gun). The video very clearly demonstrated this & its impressive.

Im just about to give some a try in the next while so I can report back. I wont be doing mylar bagging but I have some handy & the necessary composite materials to do a simple patch test on (Dolphin) release wax to see how it works. The possible downside is what nitro & synthetic oils are famous for, eating inferior paints. Sometimes it can be through wear & tear scratches in the clear or leaching from the inside of the engine bay area. Im very familiar with Endura because it was one of the few systems tough enough to take 30-35% nitro we ran on pattern models. I saw too many pretty finishes turn into ugly, pimpled models using other auto paints, especially anything from a rattle can. But racers burn 15% & that seems to be the threshold where other paint chemistries can survive. The autoair website shows nascar / dragster applicatiions which burn similar alcohol/fuel (but not the pre-mixed synth oil) so Im hopeful it would meet our needs.

- Peter

http://www.autoaircolors.com/

(in reply to jaka)
       Post #: 7

RE: Paint, what are the options? - 1/6/2007 11:58:25 AM   
wkevinm


 

Posts: 141
Joined: 9/17/2004
From: Sherwood Park, AB, CANADA
Status: offline 		ptxman

Thanks for the information.

I had elected to go with Klass Kote and to accomodate built a make shift pressurised spray booth to allow painting inside. Having said that I am still interested in an alternative. Klass Kote is a nice paint to work with but is still toxic and needs a controlled environment to work with, in our climate in particular this can be an issue.

I would certainly like to understand how your product test turns out. In the application I have on mylar it would be very practicle (other than for weight) to seal with a clear coat of Klass Kote or perhaps clear water based Polyurethane?

Kevin M.

(in reply to ptxman)
       Post #: 8

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