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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/14/2007 3:46:17 PM   
wyd



Posts: 389
Joined: 2/16/2003
From: PA
Status: offline 		New update. I did rebuild the shocks as mentioned and they are smooth but with the 70wt rear and 50wt front it was way too springy. It was all spring tension and not enough dampening.

Here is what I did to make it feel alot better. I drained all the oils again and went with Mugen 5000wt diff oil in the rear and stock prings with the shock retainer down about 3/16th or so. Rear suspension feels great. Not too fast and not too slow.. In the front I used Mugen 3000wt diff oil and cut 2 coils off the springs. This allowed me to get the front suspension lower and I can now keep the front and rear ride height level. Before the front would sit at the top of the suspension travel even with the shock retainer up as far as it will go. Front suspension is quicker than the rear and feels excellent.

I will run it later today but it is better than it was from day one and zero leaks. If I do anything else it will be to possibly go to 5000wt in the front but will know after I run it today. Might need to slow the front up a little more but will see. If nothing else it is 100% better than stock setup ever was.


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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/14/2007 10:54:11 PM   
csp1971



Posts: 310
Joined: 8/5/2006
From: Blue Springs, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Wyd - good information. I'm going to rebuild the shocks on my Firehammer MT and am going to go with the 5000 weight diff oil all the way around. By the way, Tower now has the alloy diff housing for the Firehammer in.

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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/14/2007 11:42:26 PM   
NitroBurn1


 

Posts: 437
Joined: 11/5/2006
From: , CO, USA
Status: offline 		As for the diff housing on the Firehammer. Do you guys have a problem with rocks getting stuck between the diff, and the chassis causing the alloy sleeve to spin around the diff? Mine does, and that is why grease was leaking out. I am now working on a solution to this, and if it works ill post pics.

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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/15/2007 2:42:22 AM   
csp1971



Posts: 310
Joined: 8/5/2006
From: Blue Springs, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Leave the diff installed on the car to do this. Use silicone. First clean the chassis in front and behind the alloy sleeve (yes, you will probably have to remove the engine or move it out of the way). Smear a light coating of grease around the alloy sleeve, over the ENTIRE sleeve. This will prevent the silicone from sticking to it. Squeeze a bead of silicone between the sleeve and chassis, with care NOT to get it on the diff teeth. Let it dry overnight. Spin the diff and clean the sleeve off with a rag. Pretty simple solution. See pics. There are other ways to do it, but I chose this way.



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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/15/2007 3:28:16 AM   
wyd



Posts: 389
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quote:

ORIGINAL: csp1971

Wyd - good information. I'm going to rebuild the shocks on my Firehammer MT and am going to go with the 5000 weight diff oil all the way around. By the way, Tower now has the alloy diff housing for the Firehammer in.
Thanks. I will check into the alloy diff housing. THe 5000wt did make the car so much better. After you run it you might be able to go to 7000. I will be running Sunday for about 1/2 hour so I will know by then if I will go to heavier than I have now.



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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/15/2007 3:59:17 AM   
NitroBurn1


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: csp1971

Leave the diff installed on the car to do this. Use silicone. First clean the chassis in front and behind the alloy sleeve (yes, you will probably have to remove the engine or move it out of the way). Smear a light coating of grease around the alloy sleeve, over the ENTIRE sleeve. This will prevent the silicone from sticking to it. Squeeze a bead of silicone between the sleeve and chassis, with care NOT to get it on the diff teeth. Let it dry overnight. Spin the diff and clean the sleeve off with a rag. Pretty simple solution. See pics. There are other ways to do it, but I chose this way.




Thats a pretty good fix. I already have the materials to make a fiberglass cover, so I will still try and make one any way.

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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/15/2007 4:37:35 AM   
csp1971



Posts: 310
Joined: 8/5/2006
From: Blue Springs, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Post some pics and let us know how it works. I would love to try something else!

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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/15/2007 7:13:51 PM   
wyd



Posts: 389
Joined: 2/16/2003
From: PA
Status: offline 		I read and saw pics on this thread that some guys with the FG Marders raised the diff housings up with spacers and this allows more area for debris to fall out.


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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/17/2007 1:49:01 PM   
csp1971



Posts: 310
Joined: 8/5/2006
From: Blue Springs, MO, USA
Status: offline 		I saw that, I think that is something I would screw up pretty badly if I attempted it!

I hope to replace the shock fluid in my FHMT shocks tonight. 5000 in the front and 7000 in the rear. I guess I'll see how that goes.

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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/18/2007 2:14:45 AM   
wyd



Posts: 389
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From: PA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: csp1971

I saw that, I think that is something I would screw up pretty badly if I attempted it!

I hope to replace the shock fluid in my FHMT shocks tonight. 5000 in the front and 7000 in the rear. I guess I'll see how that goes.

I have 5k in the rear and 3 up front now. Did some jumping Sunday (nothing rediculios but about 2 to 3 ft with nice flat landings. My feeling is I will be going to 7k rear and 5k front. Then I will run it at the same place doing the same things and see what happens.

I did break my first part..........pinion gear is stripped but the main spur gear is fine. Time to order the steel pinion gear for my my Firehammer. Not a huge deal though. Very minor problem. Need to go over the car and tighten any loose srews and stuff like that to.


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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/18/2007 3:01:00 AM   
csp1971



Posts: 310
Joined: 8/5/2006
From: Blue Springs, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Sounds like you jump yours like I jump mine, pretty carefully and not 10 feet in the air. I don't tear mine up (at least on purpose). I have a steel pinion and it is awesome. That was one of the first items I replaced. I lucked out a few weeks ago and found a slightly used steel spur gear with alloy gear holder on fleabay. It was 28 bucks so I went ahead and bought it. Worked out perfectly.

And the pinion doesn't count as a broken part!

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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/18/2007 10:22:59 AM   
wyd



Posts: 389
Joined: 2/16/2003
From: PA
Status: offline 		I'm not into jumping a 20lb plus car to high into the air. I just enjoy a little air and ripping thru the grass and dirt some. I want air I will race 1/10th offroad buggies or 1/8th buggies.

Yeah I will order the steel pinion and keep my eyes open for some other stuff. My local shop ordered in a few blue alum. parts for me. I think I have the rear shock tower, front steering knuckles, and rear hubs awaiting my pickup. Didn't need them as it is mainly for a little bling eye candy.

Steel spur gear.............which brand/one did you end up going with? FOr the steel pinion did you stay with the standard 19 tooth like the stock plastic one?




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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/18/2007 1:00:12 PM   
csp1971



Posts: 310
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From: Blue Springs, MO, USA
Status: offline 		I stayed with the 19 tooth pinion only because I wasn't sure which combinations of pinion/spur will work on the Firehammer. As for the 48 tooth spur, I'm guessing it is an FG 48 tooth spur gear, but since it didn't come in a package, I'm not 100%. But it meshes perfectly with the pinion gear and is exactly the same as the plastic spur.

I need to eventually get that alloy stuff for mine.

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RE: duruatrax firehammer - 7/19/2007 3:10:45 AM   
wyd



Posts: 389
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From: PA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: csp1971

I stayed with the 19 tooth pinion only because I wasn't sure which combinations of pinion/spur will work on the Firehammer. As for the 48 tooth spur, I'm guessing it is an FG 48 tooth spur gear, but since it didn't come in a package, I'm not 100%. But it meshes perfectly with the pinion gear and is exactly the same as the plastic spur.

I need to eventually get that alloy stuff for mine.

Well I took my stock stripped pinion gear off tonight. I have a new steel pinion that fits on nicely but now the gear mesh is off a little bit. Need to move the motor a little closer to the spur to get the gear mesh correct. Never messed with moving the motor so to be honest I don't know if they can move or not. I will have to check other threads and see if I find some info. If not I will just have to experiment when I get some time this weekend.


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