Enya R120GP Seller:Hobbsy Details:
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Posts: 10677
Joined: 12/2/2001 From: Colonial Beach,
VA, USA Status: offline
I broke in the new SuperTigre .90 using an exaggerated Saito style break in. SuperTigre G90 of Chinese mfr. Prop==Bolly 12.5x8 Fuel==Fox 5%/20% castor 16 oz DuBro tank Plug==Used the provided plug for 55 minutes, refilled the 16OZ tank, the engine would not start, the plug would glow but the engine would not fire a lick. Replaced with new Fox Miracle, back in business. 10 minutes at 4,000 rpm rich, glow power required. 10 minutes at 4,000 with low speed needle leaned just enough to run without glow power. 10 minutes at 5,000 10 minutes at 5,500 10 minutes at 6,000 5 minutes at 6,500 to empty tank Refilled tank and changed to Fox Miracle plug 5 minutes at 6,500 10 minutes at 7,000 Full throttle to peak high speed needle, would not hold peak for more than 15 seconds and then lost rpm. Richened HS a few clicks 7,500 for 10 minutes Full throttle to peak HS needle, holds 11,800 rpm Leaned LS needle for smooth transition, idle 2,110 This engine did not leak a drop of anything anywhere. All ready for conversion to Diesel. One thing I forgot to mention, the muffler slips on and off of the exhaust stub silky smooth, it feels like they loosened the fit a hair, the joint did not leak. I did not use the exhaust gasket, the phlange did not leak either.
< Message edited by Hobbsy -- 1/25/2007 9:47:54 PM >
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Joined: 9/4/2002 From: Bruce,
MS, USA Status: offline
Hobbsy, do you think the engine not starting could be due to the high oil content? One other thing do you ever take an engines back plate off and flush it out with fuel or methanol? I did flush my 2300 and there were contaminants in it but the 51, and 90 were clean. I believe the contaminants in the 2300 were mostly carbon form the heat treating of the crank but there were some aluminum fragments in there also. I now do this with most of my engines. I also wonder about the oil that the manufacturer places in new engines because it might be just some off the wall oil just to inhibit rust. I usuall add some ATF to a new engine just to make sure it will survive initial start up without any minute damage. I don't think this is critical buy it is only my practice. Any of you know what kind of oil Super Tiger puts in there?
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Joined: 12/2/2001 From: Colonial Beach,
VA, USA Status: offline
Buzz, occasionally a plugs coil gets contaminated with wear particles from the parts breaking in and the plug simply stops working. This engine had excellent compression before I ran it, that is rare for a SuperTigre, they usually feel pretty mushy before they are broken in. You could definitely see the oil in this one, very thin and perfectly clear, the spraybar was full of it. I do usually flush engines but not this one.
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"I have gone faster backwards, upside down and on fire than most people have gone at all" Don Garlits
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Joined: 9/4/2002 From: Bruce,
MS, USA Status: offline
Another method of mounting engies for display that I have seen is to use a large brass washer an drill a hole in it and tap and thread in a brass screw. This brass screw can be cut an adjusted to height and a brass nut can be used to hold engine. If brass is hard to get in your area you cold use steel. Most people are like me they don't display their engines but use them for what they were designed, Flying. However, I myself have 2 engine that I don't have on airplanes now that would do for mounting and displaying. If you have a better way to mount or display and engine lets hear it.
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Joined: 9/4/2002 From: Bruce,
MS, USA Status: offline
Talking of displaying engines brought to mind something I saw last summer. I was at a fly-in and noticed another man's engine muffler was pollished to a high luster shine. I asked the man how he got that muffler so shiny and he said he used a buffing wheel and buffing compound and it took a while to do it. After looking at it and thinking for a while I asked, how hard is it to keep cleand and shiny. I thought of the castor and oil that comes out of these things and how it stains or carbonizes. He said synthetic fuel and lots of clean-up at the field. I guess if you want to attract attention you have to do something different. It worked as I noticed it right away. With the shot peening or media blasting the Super Tiger engine finish has I don't think this is easily possible but what are some of the more bizzar engine alterations you have seen?
< Message edited by buzzingb -- 1/26/2007 5:15:02 PM >
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Joined: 9/4/2002 From: Bruce,
MS, USA Status: offline
I let a layer of burnt castor build up on some of my first engines but with the use of a spray bottle and pure methanol, I am hoping to keep my engines in pristine shape even with high fuel usage. Now I am in the market for a long bristle brush to aid the methanol by brushing while the methanol is on engine. My daughter has a brush that women us to brush hair dye in hair that I am going to try my next time out to the field. I believe it is the old fuel left on the engine that causes most of the black stuff to build up. Running high rpms seems to cause an engine to look messier also because of the extra heat gererated that bakes the castor on. Once I was running a fairly new Thunder Tiger 46 and it looked almost new till I attaced a tuned pipe and it wasn't long that engine was turning brown but it was inside a cowl and inverted which contributed to the problem of keeping it clean.
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Joined: 9/4/2002 From: Bruce,
MS, USA Status: offline
One thing I will be doing to the engines I display that I forgot to mention is using the foam earplugs to seal dust out of the carb intake. I found some old foam earplugs and they make the perfect protection to keep the dirt out. Now I realize not many people out there are going to be a meticulous as I with their engine that cost $69 and that is fine. But it is the little things in life that make the most difference most of the time.
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Joined: 9/4/2002 From: Bruce,
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Have any of you looked at all the old, and I mean very old engines, on ebay? Some of these engines are Super Tigers and others are Brands that I have never heard of. It is just plain intertaining to view these old engine but I have no interest in buying one. It appears that diesel was very popular years ago and I asked myself why? It probally was because the glow engines hadn't been worked out yet. There were twin diesels, radial diesel, and some engines that I don't know what they are. Some of the engine are pretty elaborate with wierd designs. Many of you may be old enought to have used them but not me I am just a young whipper snapper. If you are interested in old engines just check it out late at night when there is nothing on tv and I feel you will be well intertained and who knows you might even decide to purchase on of the little jewels.
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Joined: 1/31/2002 From: Ringgold,
GA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: buzzingb
Talking of displaying engines brought to mind something I saw last summer. I was at a fly-in and noticed another man's engine muffler was pollished to a high luster shine. I asked the man how he got that muffler so shiny and he said he used a buffing wheel and buffing compound and it took a while to do it. After looking at it and thinking for a while I asked, how hard is it to keep cleand and shiny. I thought of the castor and oil that comes out of these things and how it stains or carbonizes. He said synthetic fuel and lots of clean-up at the field. I guess if you want to attract attention you have to do something different. It worked as I noticed it right away. With the shot peening or media blasting the Super Tiger engine finish has I don't think this is easily possible but what are some of the more bizzar engine alterations you have seen?
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Being an amateur radio operator (NM2K) and having to display my call sign and name and address by law on my transmitters that utilize six meters, I had a few brass ID tags engraved with the pertinent data. Then I did the same as the other fellow did that you mentioned and used a cloth buffing wheel and some of the oxblood colored wax based polishing compound that came in a small transparent plastic tube along with my original Moto-Tool. The tags came out looking more like brilliantly polished gold than polished brass.
I left the residual polishing compound in the engraved letters and numbers (made them dark), removed the rest and then sprayed the ID tags with light dusting coats of Krylon clear spray paint. No tarnish has developed in over twenty years since I made the tags. They are still very beautiful.
Ed Cregger
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Joined: 9/4/2002 From: Bruce,
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I am glad you mentioned that Ed, because I forgot what the man said about spraying on some kind of cleaner. He said the once he sprayed some kind of cleaner on the engine to try and clean it up and it tarnished the aluminum and he had to rebuff it. As you know some of the harsh cleaners will tarnish aluminum so you have to be careful with those. Once I sprayed something on an engine that was pretty bad and it removed the black stuff but took off the nice finish that OS has on their engines. It didn't hurt the aluminum but made it dark. I normally don't take an engine apart unless it is necessary but once I tried the antifreeze method and it seemed to work pretty well for cleaning with not too much discoloration. Many say that a dirty engine will retain heat and I will agree to that but the amount of heat probally isn't that significant unless it is totally gummed over to the point that air flow is interrupte. There is probally more harm done to engines by people disassembling them to clean than the carbon will ever do. Don't get me wrong here I am not saying an engine shouldn't be cleaned but many take their engines apart on every opportunity just to look inside and prove to themselves that they know how. In those cases to me it proves what those people know about the mechanical aspects of engines. I have heard about the Dawn Disolver (what ever cleaner) and how well it works. Now that would be good if it could be brushed on and clean the fins without disassembly. I am sure if someone wants to display an engine, they want it clean and presentable as possible.