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Posts: 1592
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
epoxy stab to fuse (cont)
pic 1: Not a lot of room to get to the top fillets but enough through that small rectangular hole. After mixing the epoxy and microballs, I nuked the epoxy for about 5 seconds on high. That got the epoxy fluid enough to poor the epoxy into that fillet while holding the fuse on end at about a 60 degree angle so the epoxy just landed on the fillet. Once it flowed to the forward end, I laid the fuse horizontally and tilted the stab down so the epoxy will stay in that fillet until she hardens.
Posts: 1159
Joined: 3/19/2002 From: kannapolis,
NC, USA Status: offline
Samuel, Is your glazing putty a 2 part? I would use Dynaglaze or something like that. It sands easy and sticks to almost anything. It does smells bad though. Sands very easy.. I even use it straight on balsa if needed... It dries in about 15 minutes ready to sand...
Posts: 1159
Joined: 3/19/2002 From: kannapolis,
NC, USA Status: offline
Its a polyester base. Any automotive paint store will have it. It comes in a tube. I go to home depot and buy an empty quart paint can and put it all in it. If you don't it will dry out in the tube in about 6 weeks. You can thin it with acetone or MEK. you can carve it before ti get totally hard. I use it all the time....
Posts: 1592
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
epoxy stab to fuse.
pic 1/2: All four fillets have been epoxied from inside and the glazing putty has been sanded on the outside. Need some .5 oz FG on the outside and that'll be done. I think I could put a turbine on her and that stab isn't going to budge!
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/27/2007 3:41:47 AM >
Posts: 1592
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
spot painting with primer. It got all the way up into the 40's today so I thought I'd primer some of the parts out in the shop. Being a cheap SOB, I wait until it's fairly warm so when I turn on the heat out there, the heater won't have too long to run to get the temperature up to 70.
pic 1: After wet sanding the stab and wing fillets, I put more 1/32" chart tape down for panel lines. It's hard to see but there's black chart tape over the red glazing. I also put a couple of inches of chart tape into the existing panel lines so they won't get filled in by the primer.
pic 2: Chart tape on the belly pan.
pic 3: Primer on the belly pan. Again, I used the two part auto primer using an air brush. The air brush has very little overspray so no masking was needed. The wet sanding will remove all overspray.
pic 4: stab fillet.
pic 5: I also primered the balsa vertical fin stiffener since this may be seen when the rudder is moved.
pic 6: wing fillets.
pic 7: I wet sanded the fuse seam about a month ago and just finally primered it. It still has a few spots that need attention. You can see in this picture how little overspray and narrow a spray pattern is achieved with an air brush.
pic 8: Elevator and rudder and trim tabs primered.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/27/2007 11:56:59 PM >
Posts: 1592
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
Tail wheel retract (cont)
pic 1: As I mentioned about a month ago, the control arm (on the left in the picture) for the tail wheel hits and is above the surface of the fuse. I measured the distance from the fuse surface to the tail retract mounting plate and it's 1 5/8". Measuring the same surfaces in the plans (pic 2) gives me 2 1/8". If the tail retract mounting plate was indeed this distance, the control arm would be below the surface of the fuse. It appears that filing a hole for the control arm will leave a visable hole in the door as well as the fuse (not what I really want!).
pic 3: The other option is to remove the mounting plate (ply) and lower it. There's not much room in there for cutting plus there are triangular ply bracing on each side against the fuse plus moving the plate down a 1/2" will then be where the former has no ply. Debating what to do on this. If anyone has built this plane, your comments are welcomed: as well as anyone else's suggestions. This kit has been very well designed and this is my first 'snag'. Thanks.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/28/2007 4:40:34 PM >
Posts: 1592
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
tail wheel (cont).
I just put the retract in the up position and that control arm moves forward a good 3/4": this would mean about a 1" by at least a 1/2" rectangular hole in the side of the fuse next to the door. That wouldn't be a pretty sight!
pic 1: While I'm presently contemplating that retract, I figure I'd check out the canopy situation. It looks like I can take that 'C' channel I made and put part of it on top of that ledge in front, and put the remaining 'C' channel in that recess at the bottom of the rear windows. I can use those #0X3/16" screws to hold them on. This way there will be no cutting into the fuse, which may weaken the fuse.
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/28/2007 5:16:31 PM >
Posts: 1592
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
Tail wheel retract (cont)
I wanted to find out if Yellow had any solutions for my tail retract problem. I called up Yellow at 781-935-9868 and talked to Charles. It sounds like Charles knows his planes. After telling him my problem, Charles gave me a quick answer: 'remove the tail wheel landing plate and lower it'. I like that, no BS, just 'straight' talk, fast and quick to the point. After 'milling' about how to do that, and initially thinking about 'hacking' away at removing the mounting plate, I had a 'eureka' idea (not the vacuum cleaner!): HEAT! Heat works so well on removing rusted bolts in cars, why not a piece of wood with glue on it!
pic 1: It worked! I used my heat gun and it softed the glue. I literally put the end of the heat gun right on the mounting plate. It got the fuse around the area too hot to touch but the heat did not deform the fuse in any way. First I got the mounting plate farthest away from the former very hot and used some adjustable angled pliers to lift that end up. Then I heated the end by the former. I could wiggle the mounting plate but the fuse gets too narrow back there and kept me from pulling the mounting plate back away from the former.
pic 2: I ended up cutting the center of the plate with a razor saw and pulling each half out with the angled pliers. I love when 'things' work out to be easy fixes. Now, it should be a piece of cake putting in a new mounting plate!
< Message edited by samparfitt -- 1/30/2007 1:36:29 PM >
Posts: 1592
Joined: 9/1/2002 From: West Chester, OH, USA Status: offline
tail wheel retract (cont)
pic 1: Hey, I figure: why not also try this heat trick on the triangular side supports! After heaing the side supports, I gently pried them free from the fuse with a 'standard' flat screw driver. I can reuse the supports, and no damage to the carbon fiber re-inforcement along the side of the fuse. This is too easy!
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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 
