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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/1/2007 10:44:12 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		engine (cont)

pic 1:
The Great Planes (GPMQ4115) 32 oz tank fits perfectly into the engine box.
It just occurred to me that the tank location will create a problem for the choke/throttle servos:
I was going to mount the servos in the back of the box and run them up to the carb through the center of the engine box.
mmmm: I'll have to 'work' on that problem!

Finish:

pic 2/3:
Went out today and got some H2O base paint: red, black, white and two shades of blue.
All ensignia's will be painted on.
I plan on sealing everything with Minwax water base poycrylic protective finish (clean satin).
Haven't seen where anyone has used this so I'll have to experiement first!
Seems like this should work.
The 100 acrylic paint should be durable enough against just gasoline but I thought a polycrylic finish would 'insure that'!

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/1/2007 10:49:37 PM >

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/1/2007 11:05:48 PM   
fockewulf37


 

Posts: 1286
Joined: 3/19/2002
From: kannapolis, NC, USA
Status: offline 		Sam,
I use the poly to fiberglass all the time. I have tried to spray it before and did not like the way it sprayed. I would not use it myself to seal up a paint job. If you are wanting a clear. I use either Polyurethane or the monokote spray clear...I Have the Skyshark P-40 and have a very large nose art and I plan on using the Lustercoat flat clear to seal it with....

Ty

< Message edited by fockewulf37 -- 2/1/2007 11:06:05 PM >

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/1/2007 11:35:30 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		I wasn't aware that you could mix solvent base paints over water base paints.
I've had some problems with the lusterkote clear spray where it has actually turned brown.
This has happened on two planes: over monokote and over their own base colors.
I may have screwed something up but I'm 'shying' away from something that has given me problems.
I'm sure their product is good: I've just haven't developed the skill set for it.
There is so much prep work for painting that it's a lot of work to redo a problem.
If it comes to a clear finish, I'd rather use my auto 2-part epoxy clear finish, but I'm concern about solvent base over a water base.
This water base finish is pretty new to me: For years, I've used enamels and laquers and 2-part finishes.





< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/2/2007 1:02:10 AM >

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 12:57:43 AM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		Access hatches

pic 1:
monokote over two access hatches and first layer of FG cloth put on with Zap finishing resin.

pic 2:
Rear hatch for air fill and gauge, two receiver battery switches and voltwatch.

pic 3:
Forward hatch for engine battery switch and voltwatch.

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 1:33:24 AM   
fockewulf37


 

Posts: 1286
Joined: 3/19/2002
From: kannapolis, NC, USA
Status: offline 		I use Spar urethane (minwax) right out of the can myself directly over the latex . Yes it may yellow just a little (very little), but it looks weathered. People just don't realize how fast paints weather in everyday conditions back then. so a little discoloration doesn't bother me...I have use the Lustercoat too. You have to put a couple light coats before you spray anything heavy....

Ty

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 1:59:13 AM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		Thanks for the info.
I'll have to try that out.
I agree with ya' on paint weathering.
Colors vary just by the amount of light, and then leave a painted plane out in the sun even after a month, no two planes painted with the same colors are going to look alike. And planes in a war, the color variation will not even look like the same paint was used.

< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/2/2007 2:04:02 AM >

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 4:12:02 AM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		Access hatches (cont)

pic 1/2:
Second layer of FG cloth (0.5 oz) added.

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 4:20:39 AM   
US185Damiani



Posts: 824
Joined: 3/29/2002
From: Danville, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Can't say as I blame you on the Tailwheel doors Sam,
The build looks great!

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 4:38:22 AM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		thanks for your interest.

Hatches (cont).

pic 1:
just added another hatch.
May not use the one on top of the fuse that is just in front of the canopy and, instead, use this new one for the 'ignition' hatch.
The new one is just behind the fire wall and before the 2nd former: this location will put the ignition system farther from the main servo tray.
Plus, it's not much trouble to make an addition optional hatch while doing the other two.

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 4:49:03 AM   
drdenny


 

Posts: 169
Joined: 1/4/2004
From: Hudson, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Sam:
Fantastic Build! I'm really enjoying what you and George are doing!!!
drdenny


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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/2/2007 11:28:19 PM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		Engine (cont)

pic 1:
Went to ACE hardware and got some socket head 1/4X20 thread X 1 1/4" long bolts to hold the engine stand offs to the fire wall.
Also got flat and locking washers plus put locktite on the threads.
ACE carries a lot of small hardware parts (#4 and up).

hatches (cont)

pic 2:
Got six layers of 0.5 oz FG cloth on: that should be enough.
My idea of that third hatch "ain't goin' to fly": Since I had it between two formers, there's no way to get to it from the inside (at least there's no damage done!)

SBD Dauntless:
My cowl came in today from fiberglass specialties.
It's for a F4U but at least I'll have a cowl for flying this Spring.
I had to cut off 2 3/4" off the back so the cowl will 'kind of look' like an SBD cowl!
The dealer that has a SBD cowl is delayed several months due to an outside supplier so at least I'll have a 'cowl' on my plane until the 'real' one comes in.
I damaged the original in a 'mis-hap' last Fall.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- 2/2/2007 11:29:20 PM >

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/3/2007 12:34:09 AM   
Baldeagle


 

Posts: 1473
Joined: 2/2/2002
From: Lakeside, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Sam what Dauntles do you have? I have been thinking about the Bates Dauntles for next year.

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Rich

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/3/2007 12:49:18 AM   
samparfitt


 

Posts: 1941
Joined: 9/1/2002
From: West Chester, OH, USA
Status: online 		I've got the Bates Dauntless (85" ), FG fuse.
Real nice flyer:

http://www.scaleaero.com/jerrybates.htm

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RE: Yellow P-40 build thread - 2/3/2007 2:40:51 PM   
Baldeagle


 

Posts: 1473
Joined: 2/2/2002
From: Lakeside, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Sam The 85 in is the right size for me also. I don't think the fg fushlage is avalible anymore. But that is allright I don't mind building . I have a G45 that needs a home. Your P40 looks like a really nice kit to work with. Rich

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