Yellow P-40 build thread (Full Version)

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samparfitt -> Yellow P-40 build thread (12/30/2006 3:28:30 AM)

I've had this baby sitting in my spare room for a year now and I thought I'd start building her.
My 3.2 megapixel camera broke (after only two years) so I'm back to my 1.3 for now (bear with me on these pictures!).
I may be slow on input on this thread since I'm also building two 96" P-51's at the same time.
I will be doing what ever I feel like working on so one or the other thread may not get much input for awhile.
Feel free to add your input.

Pic 1-5:
This kit is more like an ARC.
It comes in two large boxes, all very well packed.
The wings and horizontal stab is sheeted with LE blocks glued on and a FG fuse.
I will have to build up the rudder and elevators.
This is an incredible kit.
The fuse is a work of art.
Panel lines are on the fuse and the inside is carbon fiber re-inforced.
It has a real nice set of functional gear doors.
The instruction manual appears very thorough plus a picture manual comes with it that is referenced by the instruction manual.
All parts are bagged in plastic bags.
I got Yellow's spinner, retracts and wheels.
The retracts are double cylinder and will probably survive any crash.
A DA-50 will power her.

pic 6:
The first thing the instruction manual says is to sand the LE block on each wing.
I put some masking tape on the sheeted wing next to the LE block so I wouldn't accidentally sand the balsa wing sheeting.
I used my porter-cable orbital sander to aggressively take it down to the tape.
After that, I took the tape off and I used paint sticks with sand paper (120 grit) to get the LE even with the wing sheeting.
I sanding parallel to the wing so I wouldn't create any undulations or waves in the LE if I tried to sand perpendicular to the wing (not hard to do with such soft wood as balsa).
Always use the outside foam supports while sanding to protect the sheeting.
This also keeps you from putting the wing on its TE which would probably result in damaging the TE.


pic 7:
Here's all the parts for the flaps and ailerons.
I've already glued in the thin ply in the base of the flaps using epoxy that was thinned about 10%.
The ply is very thin and wide and I figured a thin epoxy mix would be best to insure no wave occurred in the ply.
I raided the kitchen and used any heavy boxes as weight to hold the ply down.
These flap and aileron parts were in different bags but the manual gives you the dimensions so they are easily found.




jeffEE -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (12/30/2006 5:56:02 AM)

I got mine and started to smile after looking at each part. The Gear are the most "WOW". After dealing with weak and floppy gears in the past, its nice to see a set done right! Even the way the wing and tail is packed is first rate. The glass work is good too. Can't wait to get it in the air. I never did like a plane that looked like all the others. So I painted mine to stand out and be easy to see. Not a real WWII paint job? whatever. Jeff



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (12/30/2006 3:40:46 PM)

pic 8:
This morning, I got the inside and leading edge pieces of the flap epoxied in.
Again, I used masking tape to protect the wing.
This works really well when sanding those two new pieces down to match the wing.
I just laid the sanding stick on the tape and sanded until all was smooth without worrying about damage to the wing sheeting.

pic 9:
I got the ailerons cut out.
The wing has about 1/2" slot all the way through the wing.
All I have to do was extend some pen lines to the outside edge and also to the flap and used an exacto blade to cut them out.

pic 10:
Ailerons cut out with those two short pieces as waste.

Well, it's going to be 60, low wind and sunny so I've got to got get ready to go fly.
In Ohio, we don't get many days like this at the end of December!
(that's probably why those builders in Minnesota, etc make such tremendous looking planes!)



YellowAircraft -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (12/30/2006 7:21:51 PM)

Hey,

I LOVE these threads! Let me know if I can be of any help!



Warbird Man -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (12/30/2006 8:16:48 PM)

I have "GOT" to get me one of these!



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (12/31/2006 1:44:42 AM)

pic 11:
All trim for the flap area has been epoxied in and sanded.

pic 12:
The TE on the wing and the aileron inside edge trim has been epoxied on.

pic 13:
Spent a little time on the fuse.
There is a small seam where the two fuse halves are joined.
I sanded this with wet/dry paper using water and 400 grit paper.
It's a very good fit but a little glazing filler will be needed.



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (12/31/2006 1:21:28 PM)

pic 14:
Before gluing the LE to the aileron, 7/16" has to be removed from the inside edge.
This 6" belt sander makes nice, smooth, quick results.

pic 15:
The LE block epoxied to the aileron.

pic 16:
An oscillating sander removes the bulk of the balsa from the LE block.

pic 17:
Using a Fein detail sander, sandpaper stick and a full sheet of sandpaper folded twice makes quick work on sanding the TE of the wing for the aileron and putting a rounded edge on the LE of the aileron.

pic 18:
Aileron's done.



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/1/2007 1:33:23 AM)

pic 19:
Hinges for flaps and ailerons were installed on one wing.
These are in the Yellow's kit.
Six small for the flaps and 4 large for the ailerons.

pic 20:
Close up of flap.
My first departure from Yellow's manual.
Yellow shows them installed as you would the ailerons: ie, straight in.
I put them in at about a 30 degree angle to both the flap and wing.
I also cut notches where the hinge pin is.

pic 21:
Another close up view.

pic 22:
The 'angled' approach allows maximum movement (in case you want air brakes!).

pic 23:
The end view of the aileron.
The triangular pieces are CA'ed in (also supplied by Yellow) on the top and bottom of the TE of the wing.
I modified the LE of the aileron so it's 'bell' shaped.
I found this to be the best curve when you have those triangular pieces overlapping the aileron.
I'm getting an inch movement which is more than enough for a warbird (the manual says 3/4" ).

pic 24:
I used a roman ogee router bit and table router to get the 'bell' curve.
Sand paper and a dowel would get you the same results.

pic 25:
Close up of aileron hinges.
A recess was cut so the hinge pin will be in line with the LE of the aileron.
Of course none of the hinges will be epoxied in until after 'glassing'.



tigertooth -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/1/2007 1:51:59 AM)

Samparfitt, thanks for sharring the info and photos. Nice job,nice! Have you picked out a paint scheme yet?



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/1/2007 2:56:42 AM)

thanks, probaby one of these:



langerl -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/1/2007 9:44:57 PM)

Samparfitt,

THANK YOU so very much for beginning this thread. It gives me all the information I need to convince myself I'm up to building a Yellow P-40. Looks pretty straight forward.

If you are concerned about accurate color schemes for your RC models, may I offer the following bits of information:
- the AVG only got the first six P-40Es at near the end of AVG existence, Mar '42. These aircraft were numbered 100-105 and may or may not have had all the markings of the earlier AVG P-40B/Cs. You may learn more in three excellent references on P40s. In order of their value: The Eagle Files #4 Tigers Over China, by Tullis $29.95, Historie & Collections Vol 3 Curtis P-40 From 1939-1945 $19.95, and Osprey #35 P-40 Warhawk Aces of the CBI, $17.95.
- If you go for the AVG scheme, Dragon Action Figures has a great 1/6 scale AVG pilot figure. He's wearing the famous AVG leather jacket with "blood chit" patch on the back. Looks kinda like Humphrey Bogart.[:)]
- Keleo Exhausts are now marketing scale, fuctional exhaust for the (Yellow) P-40E. Fits the 3W75 motor.

Thanks again. I'm subscribing to your thread and will read it with great interest.

regards and happy building,
langerl



jeffEE -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/2/2007 2:40:48 AM)

To Shaun of yellow Aircrtft. A question. the instructuins show a US. 41 as the powerplant. In your view, is this an ok choice, or should I go bigger? I see a lot of flyers with G62's and that seems like a bit more than is needed if the US. 41 is the correct size. I know you can always not run it full power with the G62, but I just thought I would ask. Thanks. Jeff.



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/2/2007 11:16:18 PM)

Yesterday (1-1-07), our club had their 'freeze' fly, then went to a party and finally watched football.
What a great Boise/Oklahoma game!
I thought the Ohio State/Michigan would be a long time being replaced as exciting but 4 weeks later!
Of course, being from Ohio, you know whom I'm rooting for next Monday!

Well, 1-2-07 and back to building.
I thought I'd cover the flaps/ailerons in more detail.
(I left a lot out).

pic 25:
package parts for flap/aileron servo tray.
(well covers in another package)

pic 26:
Note that the flap has one 90 degree angle which goes towards the inside bottom of the flap recess.
I rounded it off to prevent any binding after glassing.

pic 27:
insure the aileron has the same reveal (flush) on both sides (top/bottom) of the wing.
These are important details: if the surface of the aileron is not flush with the wing sheeting then we may need trim adjustment on our maiden flight. We want her to fly as true as possible without having to make a lot of 'trim changes'.

pic 28:
Insure the holes for the TE of the wing are exactly centered to insure the aileron will be 'flush' with the top/bottom of the wing.

pic 29/30:
insure flap is also 'flush' with the wing sheeting to, again, insure we don't have to make 'trim changes'.

pic 31:
Insure there is a large enough gap around the flaps and ailerons since we still have to glass and paint them.

pic 32:
shows the angle I used to drill holes into the flap.
I first used a 1/16" bit for accuracy and then used a 1/8" bit to enlarge it.

pic 33:
I put tape on the bit as a 'depth' marker.

pic 34:
Insure the hinge pins are 'in line' with corner of the flap.

Pic 35:
Holes in Le of flap recess with a 45 degree bevel cut for the hinge pin movement.




samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/2/2007 11:36:33 PM)

flaps/ailerons (continued)

pic 36/37:
edge of aileron wing hinge holes and notches for pin movement.

pic 38:
Also, insure aileron hinge pins are aligned with the LE of the aileron.

pic 39:
I used a dremel 'cone' shape bit to make room for the hinge pins in the TE of the wing.

pic 40:
The other wing completed.



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 12:08:34 AM)

Wing servo wells.
(Starting now, I'm renumbering the pictures starting at '1' for each 'reply' (it appears to be too hard to relate to the pictures when the picture numbers get too high).

pic 1:
Parts needed for servo wells:
covers, liners, black plastic corner supports, servo mounts and control horn hard mounts.

pic 2:
I drilled holes for the flap servo wires.
I used a dremel and metal grinders shown in the picture.
First I used the 'cone' shaped grinder to penitrate the wing spar and then the cylindrical grinder to enlarge the hole.
Try to put the hole at least a 1/4" from the top of the spar: like house joints, you should try not to notch the sides of the spar.
This will weaken the spar just as it would a house joist (round holes are best and kept in the center).

pic 3:
We need to get the hole to intersect the 'other' hole that is running from the 'gear mount' recess to the aileron well recess.

pic 4:
to cut holes in the well liner, I used a forstner bit.
The hole needs to be over from the end equal to the width of the black plastic supports.

pic 5:
Here's the 'running' wire from the flap well to the 'gear mount' recess.
This is a temporary wire to later pull the servo wires through the hole.

pic 6:
The servo well liners are epoxied in.
There are two liners per servo well: each liner must be used on adjacent sides (and not opposite sides) since the well is rectangular or you will not have enough material.

pic 7:
Servo well liners sanded flush to masking tape with a detail sander.

pic 8:
After removing the masking tape, final sanding is done with a sand paper stick.

pic 9:
I drill two 1/16" holes on each side of the black plastic corners so the holes will act as rivets when epoxy is used to hold them to the servo well liners.
The jig in the picture is used to align the corners the proper distance from the top of the wing so the servo cover will fit flush.

pic 10:
Jig in use.

pic 11:
This picture shows why we moved the hole over so the corner supports can be epoxied to the servo well liner.




samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 12:20:59 AM)

Wheel Wells.
(Not done with the servo wells but I had to work on the retracts!)

pic 1:
A 5 3/4" diameter piece of 1/16" ply is cut for the wheel wells (One of the few things not in the kit).
A scroll saw made quick work of this.

pic 2:
A sanding wheel was used to round out the edges and to make it fit.

pic 3:
Yellow's wheel and hub assembly.
note that the hub screws together.

pic 4:
The axle pin is put in from inside the hub and a wheel color is put on the outside to 1) hold the pin on and 2) keep the wheel from rubbing against the oleo (all parts in retract kit).
There are holes in the one hub so a 8X32 bolt can be put in it to screw the hubs together.
(Only need one bolt and not two as in the picture)

pic 5:
First push the hubs together until they meet (about 1/4" gap will show on the tire).

pic 6:
then use a screw driver to screw the hubs together.

pic 7:
Bottom and side well liners are epoxied in the well.
The side liners are supplied in the kit (2 per well).

pic 8:
The retract is just sitting on the mount but they sure look good!





samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 12:27:28 AM)

Future project:

Yellow AT-6 Texan.

It also came in two boxes.
Same building technique as the P-40: ie sheeting wings, FG fuse, etc.
Will be using G-62 with Robart retracts.
(this 1.3 megapixels is pretty bad!)

well, time to go eat and get ready to watch some more bowl games!



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 4:25:35 AM)

Aileron correction:

I've been so busy reading the manual and pictures that I forgot to check the two pages of plans.
On one of the plans, they show the pin hinge center of rotation right at where the LE of the aileron is epoxied to the foam/sheeting of the aileron.
Making the hinge rotate at this point allows you to keep the half radius on the LE instead of making the 'bell' shape that I used.



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 8:01:02 PM)

PILOT:

The pilot I'm making this P-40 for (LT George Taylor) heard about my error on the aileron so he came down to the shop and check up on me.

pic 1:
George: ' Hey dumb sh$t, how to cut the ailerons is right here in the manual. Can't you read!!'

pic 2:
George: 'Well, it looks like you did a good job on the wheels!'

pic 3:
George: 'what's next?'
Me: Need to work on the servo covers.
George: 'well, shy don't we tape them all together and use a 1/4" forstner bit and drill out the holes.
Me: OK

pic 4:
me: might as well put George to work. He can file those holes smooth while I take a break!

pic 5:
me: hmmmmm, not bad!

ps: what's that called when action figures start talking to ya'!!



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 8:30:16 PM)

pic 1:
George: 'let's paint up the cockpit while the weather isn't too bad out'
me: OK
We'll use the air brush to get a nice smooth finish.
We'll do the details later.
This kit is from Bob Dively and runs about a modest 25 bucks.
http://www.bobdivelymodels.com/
Yellow's got a real nice one too, all built up and just drop her in.
About 100 bucks which isn't bad considering it's all done.
George: 'hey, it looks pretty good and you're smarter than you look!'
me: thanks...I think!



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 10:29:02 PM)

Retracts:
pic 1:
George: 'Hey, I thought you said no notches in the spar?'
me: We had no choice, the oleo hits it when retracting but only an 1/8" was removed.

Servo cover mounts:
Pic 2:
George: 'I see you did that right. You isolated the servo from vibration by keeping a gap between the servo and cover and also the side mounts. We'll put the servo screws in first so the mounts won't move around while the epoxy is drying'
Me: We're using Hitec HS-645MG servos for the flaps and ailerons. 133 oz at 6 volts will be plenty of power.

pic 3:
George: 'Let's see if you got the servos in the right direction...
Right wing has the aileron servo arm in lower left of servo cover and flap servo arm in lower right of servo cover.
(pic 4) Left wing has the flap servo arm in lower right of servo cover and aileron arm in lower right of servo cover.
Both flaps oriented in the same direction so we won't need a servo reverser.
Hey, you got it right, stupid!'
Me: thanks.
Now we can epoxy the mounts to the servo covers.



vasek -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/3/2007 11:49:14 PM)

George is a nosy little bugger, eh?[;)]

nice build thread [sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/4/2007 3:40:30 AM)

Wheel axle correction.

George found another error!

pic 1:
I had the supplied axle collar on the outside of the wheel.
The collar should be on the inside between the two hubs.
(just as the manual says!)
The collar is 1/2" from the end.
I filed a flat spot and put locktite on the set screw.
This makes sense because now the axle is supporting both hubs.
There is a bearing on both hubs and, initially, I only had the inside hub supporting the wheel.
With this large of a plane, the axle could have bent on a rough field or landing if it was only supported on one hub.

pic 2:
The axle left of the collar goes into the outside hub.

pic 3:
The axle has a factory flat spot on the end that goes into the strut.
This end of the axle also has a 'loop' screw that goes into the end of the axle.
After tightening the set screw on the bottom of the strut into this flat spot, the 'loop' screw is then tightened.
The wheel had about a 1/4" play on the axle so I put another collar between the wheel and the strut.


This could have been disasterous to have the wheel come off on a landing.
I found this by accident.
I was just spinning the wheel and it came off the axle.
I didn't know the 'loop' on the end of the axle was actually a screw and it came off inside the hub while spinning the wheel.



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/4/2007 3:48:47 PM)

Flap/aileron control horn hard mount plates.

pic 1:
Align the kit provided 1/8" thick ply plates straight back from the servo arm.

pic 2:
Outline the plate with an X-acto knife.
On the flaps, the plates are 1/4" back from the flap edge.

pic 3/4/5:
Use a chisel to cut several lines across the grain.
These lines keep you from cutting too deep into the wood.
Using the chisel with the bevel side down to remove the waste.
You'll have to cut the lines and chisel down several times until you are 1/8" deep for the plate.
The chisels are Stanley available at any home improvement store for about 25 bucks for a set of three different widths.

pic 6:
Flap done.

pic 7:
The aileron is much easier with a foam core.
Just cut the balsa sheeting and the waste will just pop out.
No need to cut in the foam because it will compress with the plate on it and a clamp to hold it while drying.
(there was enough foam stuck to the bottom of the sheet waste anyway to make any foam removal a moot point).

Wing tips:

pic 8:
These are FG made of the same material as the fuse.
I drilled 1/8" 'rivet' holes in the wing tip ends for better adhesion.
Some masking tape on the wings to keep excess epoxy off the top/bottom sheeting.

pic 9:
Set on end to insure the wing tips don't move.



samparfitt -> RE: Yellow P-40 build thread (1/4/2007 7:57:40 PM)

Wing Tips (continued)
pic 1:
Only needed a little sanding to get them flush with the wing.

Main Gear Doors.
pic 2:
Twelve 4mm screws and washers bought at the local Ace hardware store.
I find they have a good selection of #2 and up size screws versus the big box home improvement places.
NOTE: fairing in picture is on the wrong wing (small door toward the fuse).

pic 3:
Gear fairings and doors.
Center four doors comes at two pieces and must be cut apart.

pic 4:
Gussets needed for support of rear of fairing is on the plans.
I Xeroxed them, cut them out and traced them on 1/8" scrap ply using a scroll saw.

pic 5:
Hard mount pieces made from 1/8" scrap ply to hold the fairing to the wing.

pic 6:
The outline of the fairing is traced to the wing.
The four inside hard mounts are epoxied into the wing after the waste sheet balsa is cut away.
The outside hard mounts have no foam under the sheeting so 1/2" pine was epoxied under the sheeting and to the vertical foam.







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