RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II
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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/5/2007 11:41:05 AM

jjp735i

Posts: 90
Joined: 2/19/2004
From: PitUSA, USA
Status: offline

Well I got to take the new Gator out for a spin yesterday. The rudder steering is much nicer, thought diving you also go foward. I like that you can use rechargables without it being to heavy. I got like 45 minutes on a set of 1900 energizers AA. I went to the bottom of the 4' pool just a few times and no lose of signal and if you just stop all commands it floats back to the top. My old seawolf still works but I have lost all distance, I have to be less then a foot away to get it to work, still trying to figure that out. Going to take it apart today and check for leakage and seal everything up. Since I bought 2 new ones I'm going to try and put the guts from one into the seawolf because I like the style better. I'll have to reduce the size of the rudder, but it should work OK. Will post if I get it work.

jjp

(in reply to normanski)

Post #: 326

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/5/2007 7:02:11 PM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

Sweet.

At first I was wondering what you meant about rechargeables not being too heavy--because the two kinds I've tried were 2500 and above (sank the sub like a rock, until I packed it with foam) and 1200 (sub went belly up). 1900 sounds like a nice midrange. Must be about equivalent to the weight of alkalines. Ain't that rudder great ?

Regarding your Seawolf with distance problems, I had a problem like that on my scratchbuilt sub (cobbled together from two r/c car boards). Marking the coil position where I started, I tuned the coil--carefully, maybe 1/4 turn at a time--checking reception range at each interval, and suddenly my hard-of-hearing sub was HOH no more. The top of a coil is often covered by grease, but under the top covering on a coil there's typically a slot for a small flat screwdriver.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/5/2007 7:35:02 PM >

(in reply to jjp735i)

Post #: 327

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 5:08:35 AM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

>Regarding your Seawolf with distance problems, I had a problem like that on my scratchbuilt sub (cobbled together from two r/c car boards). Marking the coil position where I started, I tuned the coil--carefully, maybe 1/4 turn at a time--checking reception range at each interval, and suddenly my hard-of-hearing sub was HOH no more. The top of a coil is often covered by grease, but under the top covering on a coil there's typically a slot for a small flat screwdriver.

Did it again tonight...I think. I'm no expert...but my 27MHz board (I have a 49MHz and a 27 onboard) had not been able to pick up signal, even on fresh transmitter batteries, from more than a few inches. I kind of played with the 27MHz receiver coil until it responded to a 27MHz transmitter. Seems to be holding.

Just one more thing...I've heard it recommended that a nonferrous tool is best, though personally I've always just used a metal screwdriver for lack of having something better.

During the adjustment, whenever I left my metal pliers next to the coil, I never got a response. Sometimes moving the pliers out of the area made the difference.

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 328

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 10:39:54 AM

jjp735i

Posts: 90
Joined: 2/19/2004
From: PitUSA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: CrunchyFrog

>Regarding your Seawolf with distance problems, I had a problem like that on my scratchbuilt sub (cobbled together from two r/c car boards). Marking the coil position where I started, I tuned the coil--carefully, maybe 1/4 turn at a time--checking reception range at each interval, and suddenly my hard-of-hearing sub was HOH no more. The top of a coil is often covered by grease, but under the top covering on a coil there's typically a slot for a small flat screwdriver.

Did it again tonight...I think. I'm no expert...but my 27MHz board (I have a 49MHz and a 27 onboard) had not been able to pick up signal, even on fresh transmitter batteries, from more than a few inches. I kind of played with the 27MHz receiver coil until it responded to a 27MHz transmitter. Seems to be holding.

Just one more thing...I've heard it recommended that a nonferrous tool is best, though personally I've always just used a metal screwdriver for lack of having something better.

During the adjustment, whenever I left my metal pliers next to the coil, I never got a response. Sometimes moving the pliers out of the area made the difference.

Do you mean inside the black box in the sub, there is a screw I can turn to get better range, Sorry I'm just a bit confused. I have no problem opening up the box. Have done it to seal it up, but can also seal it up again if I have to.

Thanks, jjp

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 329

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 2:05:00 PM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

Inside the black box, what receives the radio signal is a little metal bar inside a plastic case. What you'll see is probably copper wire wound a few times around the case. Looks like a little tower standing up from the circuit board. That's the coil.

Again, I'm no electronics tech, not expert in tuning those things. Half the time I break these coils trying to adjust them--ruined a device last night. I only do tuning when there's nothing to lose--like when the sub's dead and I've tried everything else.

Anyway, there's usually a slot in the top of the coil, sometimes covered over (maybe the covering helps keep keep the coil in position where it screws into the plastic casing). These coils rtypically screw into their housings. If you can turn the coil to move it out of the housing or back into it, you might find a sweet spot where the sub responds to the transmitter at its normal range again. (or you might shatter the housing or turn the coil into powdered iron. ) And again, supposedly it's best to use a nonferrous tool, and not leave metal lying around a few inches from what you're testing.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/8/2007 1:51:31 AM >

(in reply to jjp735i)

Post #: 330

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 2:10:52 PM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

By the way--on a Seawolf, the coil has a little circuit board almost of its own. Inside the black box, the narrow circuit board with the coil sticks out at a 90 degree angle from the main board. The coil is on one side of the little board, rightmost as I recall. Hope this helps !

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/8/2007 1:53:55 AM >

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 331

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 12:19:17 AM

jjp735i

Posts: 90
Joined: 2/19/2004
From: PitUSA, USA
Status: offline

Hey Crunchyfrog,

It worked. I gain control of the seawolf again. I took it for a spin in the pool and was able to get it down to 3 feet at approx. 15 feet away.

On a side note the foward/reverse motor bit the dust. I figured it was going sometime ago when it got water in it. Has anyone been able to find replacement motors? I do have a few slightly larger motors that I hooked up and they work, I'm thinking of going direct drive for the forward/reverse prop, but I have to figure out a new water tight holder.

On another side note I won a Nikko Ocean Explorer on ebay and was able to obtain a controller from Nikko for 34 bucks. Total cost 64 bucks. Should be a nice project to mess around with.

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 332

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 12:30:59 AM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

Awesome!

Sorry about the forward drive going kaput.

But I've been using "wet motors" outside the dry box in my scratchbuilt sub. I seal them up with either silicone caulk or my version of tool dip.

Silicone caulk, like GE Silicone II, can be had at any Home Depot, or maybe Wal-Mart. A throwaway paintbrush really helps to spread it on, I buy the small tube instead of the version used with a caulking gun.

I've never bought "tool dip," but I had something I think was similar. Tool dip is a liquid rubber used to create handles for tools--the idea is to dunk the tools in the liquid and let dry as many times as it takes to build up a handle. Might cost $7 or $10 for a can of it. I used some molding-type latex, and my motor has been running for the several months since I tried it. One problem, it's super tacky, I suspect it may hold my motor back a bit sometimes if it contacts the shaft.

(in reply to jjp735i)

Post #: 333

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 12:32:49 AM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

>I used some molding-type latex, and my motor has been running for the several months since I tried it.

By the way--this summer the lakes haven't seemed very inviting, and my sub hasn't been in water very much. Five times ?

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 334

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 3:13:34 PM

Crazziee

Posts: 31
Joined: 8/7/2007
From: Signal Hill, CA, USA
Status: offline

I just got a Gator....Can't wait to try it out but first I must resist the temptation and Seal it up and do the radio mod, Hope fully this weekend I will have it running.

Also I have a 18ft water tank to test it out in, I will post some videos of it in action.....

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 335

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 6:15:51 PM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

Crazziee,

All the best ! I hope the sealing holds the sub watertight for many missions.

Just don't do what I did early on with Wally boats--laid the sealant goop on so thick I could hardly get my black box back in. I should have used a paintbrush from the start, it really helps get the sealing consistent all over.

Another note for JJP--
My sealed motors that are outside my sub's WTC (watertight cylinder) are the rudder and dive planes motors, not things that run continuously. I don't know if a drive motor might get too hot inside the sealant, if I used a "wet" drive motor.

Congrats on the Nikko !

(in reply to Crazziee)

Post #: 336

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/11/2007 6:04:18 AM

CrunchyFrog

Posts: 466
Joined: 6/10/2005
From: austin, TX, USA
Status: online

Am I the first person to report a breakage problem with a Shark?

After my Wally Shark had sat idle for weeks, I'd recharged the batteries and was showing the Shark to a friend, operating the controls from a foot away to demonstrate. We walked back to the kiddie pool and I dropped the Shark in.

It was dead. I was shocked. Having just replaced a set of batteries and found a defective cell with my meter, I was assuming the second set of batteries--or the sub--was also defective. I forgot to check it with the tx held close.

Anyway, looks like my Shark needs tuning.

As did my scratchbuild earlier this week, even though they weren't stored together and I don't see any big hunks of magnet or metal in their haunts. Do other kinds of r/c toys do this too? What causes r/c toys to go out of tune ?

Seems I note this happening more often whenever I've operated a sub, however briefly, with the tx antenna held close to the receiver.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/13/2007 4:20:28 AM >

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 337

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/13/2007 3:25:50 AM

Safetyman

Posts: 2
Joined: 8/13/2007
From: West Palm Beach, FL, USA
Status: offline

Hello, everybody! I've been reading this forum for quite sometime. I have to say I've learned alot from you all. I think I am going to purchase a U.S.S. Chicago soon. But, If I do, I believe I will part with my Akula. I am still not sure if I will even sell my Russian Nuke sub, but if I do would anybody be interested?

(in reply to CrunchyFrog)

Post #: 338

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/18/2007 2:53:29 PM

Captain Nemo12

Posts: 784
Joined: 4/26/2004
From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Status: offline

This is weird, just played with my Connecticut for about 10 mins today and signal started getting weak (motors only run is short bursts at distance). I could only get the prop to turn normally when the transmitter is about 3 inches from the sub's antenna. No water in the hoses, I've sealed the receiver pretty tight only, dove to about 3 feet. Transmitter and receiver batteries are practically full. Has anyone else experienced this?

< Message edited by Captain Nemo12 -- 8/18/2007 2:54:28 PM >

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Post #: 339