RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II

RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II
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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/5/2007 11:41 AM

jjp735i

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Well I got to take the new Gator out for a spin yesterday. The rudder steering is much nicer, thought diving you also go foward. I like that you can use rechargables without it being to heavy. I got like 45 minutes on a set of 1900 energizers AA. I went to the bottom of the 4' pool just a few times and no lose of signal and if you just stop all commands it floats back to the top. My old seawolf still works but I have lost all distance, I have to be less then a foot away to get it to work, still trying to figure that out. Going to take it apart today and check for leakage and seal everything up. Since I bought 2 new ones I'm going to try and put the guts from one into the seawolf because I like the style better. I'll have to reduce the size of the rudder, but it should work OK. Will post if I get it work.

jjp

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/5/2007 7:02 PM

CrunchyFrog

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Sweet.

At first I was wondering what you meant about rechargeables not being too heavy--because the two kinds I've tried were 2500 and above (sank the sub like a rock, until I packed it with foam) and 1200 (sub went belly up). 1900 sounds like a nice midrange. Must be about equivalent to the weight of alkalines. Ain't that rudder great ?

Regarding your Seawolf with distance problems, I had a problem like that on my scratchbuilt sub (cobbled together from two r/c car boards). Marking the coil position where I started, I tuned the coil--carefully, maybe 1/4 turn at a time--checking reception range at each interval, and suddenly my hard-of-hearing sub was HOH no more. The top of a coil is often covered by grease, but under the top covering on a coil there's typically a slot for a small flat screwdriver.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/5/2007 7:35 PM >

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 5:08 AM

CrunchyFrog

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>Regarding your Seawolf with distance problems, I had a problem like that on my scratchbuilt sub (cobbled together from two r/c car boards). Marking the coil position where I started, I tuned the coil--carefully, maybe 1/4 turn at a time--checking reception range at each interval, and suddenly my hard-of-hearing sub was HOH no more. The top of a coil is often covered by grease, but under the top covering on a coil there's typically a slot for a small flat screwdriver.

Did it again tonight...I think. I'm no expert...but my 27MHz board (I have a 49MHz and a 27 onboard) had not been able to pick up signal, even on fresh transmitter batteries, from more than a few inches. I kind of played with the 27MHz receiver coil until it responded to a 27MHz transmitter. Seems to be holding.

Just one more thing...I've heard it recommended that a nonferrous tool is best, though personally I've always just used a metal screwdriver for lack of having something better.

During the adjustment, whenever I left my metal pliers next to the coil, I never got a response. Sometimes moving the pliers out of the area made the difference.

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 10:39 AM

jjp735i

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quote:

ORIGINAL: CrunchyFrog

>Regarding your Seawolf with distance problems, I had a problem like that on my scratchbuilt sub (cobbled together from two r/c car boards). Marking the coil position where I started, I tuned the coil--carefully, maybe 1/4 turn at a time--checking reception range at each interval, and suddenly my hard-of-hearing sub was HOH no more. The top of a coil is often covered by grease, but under the top covering on a coil there's typically a slot for a small flat screwdriver.

Did it again tonight...I think. I'm no expert...but my 27MHz board (I have a 49MHz and a 27 onboard) had not been able to pick up signal, even on fresh transmitter batteries, from more than a few inches. I kind of played with the 27MHz receiver coil until it responded to a 27MHz transmitter. Seems to be holding.

Just one more thing...I've heard it recommended that a nonferrous tool is best, though personally I've always just used a metal screwdriver for lack of having something better.

During the adjustment, whenever I left my metal pliers next to the coil, I never got a response. Sometimes moving the pliers out of the area made the difference.

Do you mean inside the black box in the sub, there is a screw I can turn to get better range, Sorry I'm just a bit confused. I have no problem opening up the box. Have done it to seal it up, but can also seal it up again if I have to.

Thanks, jjp

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 2:05 PM

CrunchyFrog

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Inside the black box, what receives the radio signal is a little metal bar inside a plastic case. What you'll see is probably copper wire wound a few times around the case. Looks like a little tower standing up from the circuit board. That's the coil.

Again, I'm no electronics tech, not expert in tuning those things. Half the time I break these coils trying to adjust them--ruined a device last night. I only do tuning when there's nothing to lose--like when the sub's dead and I've tried everything else.

Anyway, there's usually a slot in the top of the coil, sometimes covered over (maybe the covering helps keep keep the coil in position where it screws into the plastic casing). These coils rtypically screw into their housings. If you can turn the coil to move it out of the housing or back into it, you might find a sweet spot where the sub responds to the transmitter at its normal range again. (or you might shatter the housing or turn the coil into powdered iron. ) And again, supposedly it's best to use a nonferrous tool, and not leave metal lying around a few inches from what you're testing.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/8/2007 1:51 AM >

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/7/2007 2:10 PM

CrunchyFrog

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By the way--on a Seawolf, the coil has a little circuit board almost of its own. Inside the black box, the narrow circuit board with the coil sticks out at a 90 degree angle from the main board. The coil is on one side of the little board, rightmost as I recall. Hope this helps !

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/8/2007 1:53 AM >

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 12:19 AM

jjp735i

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Hey Crunchyfrog,

It worked. I gain control of the seawolf again. I took it for a spin in the pool and was able to get it down to 3 feet at approx. 15 feet away.

On a side note the foward/reverse motor bit the dust. I figured it was going sometime ago when it got water in it. Has anyone been able to find replacement motors? I do have a few slightly larger motors that I hooked up and they work, I'm thinking of going direct drive for the forward/reverse prop, but I have to figure out a new water tight holder.

On another side note I won a Nikko Ocean Explorer on ebay and was able to obtain a controller from Nikko for 34 bucks. Total cost 64 bucks. Should be a nice project to mess around with.

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 12:30 AM

CrunchyFrog

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Awesome!

Sorry about the forward drive going kaput.

But I've been using "wet motors" outside the dry box in my scratchbuilt sub. I seal them up with either silicone caulk or my version of tool dip.

Silicone caulk, like GE Silicone II, can be had at any Home Depot, or maybe Wal-Mart. A throwaway paintbrush really helps to spread it on, I buy the small tube instead of the version used with a caulking gun.

I've never bought "tool dip," but I had something I think was similar. Tool dip is a liquid rubber used to create handles for tools--the idea is to dunk the tools in the liquid and let dry as many times as it takes to build up a handle. Might cost $7 or $10 for a can of it. I used some molding-type latex, and my motor has been running for the several months since I tried it. One problem, it's super tacky, I suspect it may hold my motor back a bit sometimes if it contacts the shaft.

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 12:32 AM

CrunchyFrog

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>I used some molding-type latex, and my motor has been running for the several months since I tried it.

By the way--this summer the lakes haven't seemed very inviting, and my sub hasn't been in water very much. Five times ?

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 3:13 PM

Crazziee

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I just got a Gator....Can't wait to try it out but first I must resist the temptation and Seal it up and do the radio mod, Hope fully this weekend I will have it running.

Also I have a 18ft water tank to test it out in, I will post some videos of it in action.....

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/9/2007 6:15 PM

CrunchyFrog

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Crazziee,

All the best ! I hope the sealing holds the sub watertight for many missions.

Just don't do what I did early on with Wally boats--laid the sealant goop on so thick I could hardly get my black box back in. I should have used a paintbrush from the start, it really helps get the sealing consistent all over.

Another note for JJP--
My sealed motors that are outside my sub's WTC (watertight cylinder) are the rudder and dive planes motors, not things that run continuously. I don't know if a drive motor might get too hot inside the sealant, if I used a "wet" drive motor.

Congrats on the Nikko !

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/11/2007 6:04 AM

CrunchyFrog

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Am I the first person to report a breakage problem with a Shark?

After my Wally Shark had sat idle for weeks, I'd recharged the batteries and was showing the Shark to a friend, operating the controls from a foot away to demonstrate. We walked back to the kiddie pool and I dropped the Shark in.

It was dead. I was shocked. Having just replaced a set of batteries and found a defective cell with my meter, I was assuming the second set of batteries--or the sub--was also defective. I forgot to check it with the tx held close.

Anyway, looks like my Shark needs tuning.

As did my scratchbuild earlier this week, even though they weren't stored together and I don't see any big hunks of magnet or metal in their haunts. Do other kinds of r/c toys do this too? What causes r/c toys to go out of tune ?

Seems I note this happening more often whenever I've operated a sub, however briefly, with the tx antenna held close to the receiver.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/13/2007 4:20 AM >

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/13/2007 3:25 AM

Safetyman

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Hello, everybody! I've been reading this forum for quite sometime. I have to say I've learned alot from you all. I think I am going to purchase a U.S.S. Chicago soon. But, If I do, I believe I will part with my Akula. I am still not sure if I will even sell my Russian Nuke sub, but if I do would anybody be interested?

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/18/2007 2:53 PM

Captain Nemo12

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This is weird, just played with my Connecticut for about 10 mins today and signal started getting weak (motors only run is short bursts at distance). I could only get the prop to turn normally when the transmitter is about 3 inches from the sub's antenna. No water in the hoses, I've sealed the receiver pretty tight only, dove to about 3 feet. Transmitter and receiver batteries are practically full. Has anyone else experienced this?

< Message edited by Captain Nemo12 -- 8/18/2007 2:54 PM >

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/18/2007 2:57 PM

Wheelnut

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I want to replace the receiver. Mine only has about a 5 foot range on the surface and that is unacceptable. Is it a once piece receiver/esc? if so that sucks even more.

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/18/2007 8:28 PM

CrunchyFrog

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Captain, could your receiver coil have slipped out-of-tune?

Is the performance getting worse--maybe instead of bursts at range, it stops altogether at range?

Seems like I note this problem happening with greater frequency if I've been trying to run the sub with the tx antenna very close.

I have to give up the computer at the moment, but here's a post you might want to look at this post
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6198209 (Wally subs II post 326)
, not about the Gator but the part about his Seawolf--and check the replies.

Tuning the coil may be an option.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/19/2007 2:39 AM >

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/18/2007 10:14 PM

Captain Nemo12

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Thanks Crunchy that really helps.

But the thing that really bugs me is that I didn't even touch the circuits inside the receiver housing. I've only increased the sub's power source by replacing the batteries, maybe that could've cause the coil to slip out of tune...

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/18/2007 11:02 PM

CrunchyFrog

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I'm with you in wondering...I just posted the question recently myself, what causes these coils to go out-of-tune.

In fact I think my scratchbuild is due for another tuning of its primary board (the second tuning in its four-month lifetime so far. Maybe that's what I get for employing two frequencies on the same boat. Although now I'm suspecting the transmitter battery was lower than I'd thought, last outing). Plus my Shark has been waiting on its tuning

This symptom seems really common. Probably the biggest problem that terminates the acceptable performance of Wally subs--and Wally-grade subs--outside of leaks.

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/19/2007 9:02 PM >

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/19/2007 2:39 PM

normanski

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Hello All,

Well, I wonder..... These subs were probably designed to be used with 4 x 1.5V Battery. So 6V would probably the optimum operating voltage. Now I would say almost all of us here run 4 x 1.2V NiXX battery, is 4.8V enough as far as keeping the Radio working properly? May be you can try running with 4 x alkaline just to see if the radio works any better?

Normanski

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/19/2007 2:48 PM

Wheelnut

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good point, I will give that a shot. thanks

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/19/2007 3:33 PM

CrunchyFrog

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Wow, that is a good point. Inductance relates to current, right ? Tuneage must vary with battery charge among other things, so I'll be taking notes every time I charge up now.

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/20/2007 6:00 AM

normanski

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Hello People,

If you think going back to 1.5V alkaline batteries does help, then replacing D2 (a Diode) on the receiver board with a short link may enable you to use Ni-XX batteries again.

The Diode is there to prevent us from damaging the circuit if placing the batteries in the wrong way. However, it does take up about 0.7V to work. If you short out the Diode with a piece of wire, you will get that extra 0.7 V to work with your receiver circuit which may or may not help to improve the performance.

Normanski

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/20/2007 1:57 PM

Wheelnut

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That's not a bad idea as a last resort. These subs are factory tuned (for what thats worth lol) so I will try using Alkaline batteries first and see how that goes.

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/29/2007 7:26 PM

klaben1

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my gator just randomly stoped working and it only goes really slow in reverse nothing else on it works. do you think it is just shot or wat?

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RE: Walmart Submarine = Cool ! Part II - 8/30/2007 11:06 PM

CrunchyFrog

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maybe water has gotten into the circuit boards on the motor or receiver, and made connections it shouldn't? I wouldn't keep running it--if it's salveable, the easiest way to make it unsalveagable is probably to keep running it with wet internals until the boards fry.

In my humble opinion, you might want to open the compartments (motor casings, black box) up and mop with a dry cloth and/or give the circuit boards a chance to dry...maybe whack the boards with a hair dryer. You haven't dropped the transmitter in the water, have you ?

Are your batteries fresh in sub and transmitter?

< Message edited by CrunchyFrog -- 8/30/2007 11:09 PM >

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