RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF  
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RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/12/2007 9:51:31 PM   
smarkfagan


 

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/10/2005
From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Also Ken here's the fuel filler cap:

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(in reply to smarkfagan)
       Post #: 426

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/13/2007 2:17:37 AM   
Ken Cz


 

Posts: 75
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: Oxford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Hi Smarkfagan,
Thanks for the great photos - extremely helpful.

1. What brand is your remote glow igniter? I bought a Dubro but it comes with a large black plastic housing that does not look too good.

I think I'd like to return it.


Also, I like the looks of the Slimline fuel filler you mentioned previously - think I'll return the GP unit I purchased as well.
2. If I order the Tower part # you provided will I get everything I need for hooking up the Slimline filler?

3. Slimline website says you must put a tee in the vent line and add another filler fitting to act as an 'overflow'.
Is it really required?
IF not, do you watch your exhaust extension for fuel to know your tank is full?

If yes, where do you mount the overflow fitting?

Sorry for all the questions - I really appreciate the help.

Thanks - Ken

(in reply to smarkfagan)
       Post #: 427

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/13/2007 3:51:35 PM   
smarkfagan


 

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/10/2005
From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I used an EMS/JOMAR Glow Driver (Tower #LXPNU4) but I decided not to put the battery on board and am instead just using it as a remote adapter.

As I said earlier, I thought it was worth five minutes to put a deans connector between the engine and the adapter since it's a pain to get the cowl on and off with wires attached.

There are no T fittings in my plane. I've been told T-fittings are unnecessary in a simple setup like this and only invite leaks and I agree with that line of thinking.

The fuel dot pictured goes into a piece of fuel tubing that goes right to the tank. Inside the tank this line has one of the two clunks. The other line with the clunk goes straight from the tank to the needle valve. The third line is a vent that goes straight to the muffler.

The Slimline filler set is meant to be a filler and an overflow - but if you don't use an overflow, you can use the other plug (it's identical) on another plane. It also comes with a T fitting which I threw out. The only other thing you need is fuel tubing.

When the fuel comes out the exhaust it's full. I use a manual hand-crank style pump and I know how many cranks it takes to fill it so I slow down when I'm getting close.

I've only been at the hobby for a few years so I only know what I hear, what I read and what I figure out myself but - one common thread is everybody says when it comes to fuel systems, simpler is better. For me, three lines and no T's is as simple as you can get with a cowled engine.

(in reply to Ken Cz)
       Post #: 428

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/13/2007 5:22:12 PM   
Whistling Death


 

Posts: 1070
Joined: 3/1/2006
From: Alexander City, AL, USA
Status: offline 		I have been using the RAM 1800. The battery is shrink wrapped to the back of the board so it is small. It has been very dependable. I have 30+ plus flights on it. For fueling I use a Dubro fitting with 2 lines, fill/carb and vent. When you put the fitting in it automatically shuts the flow off to the carb. When I see suel drip out of the muffler it's full. I just fuel up, turn on the radio, then hit it with the starter and I am off.

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(in reply to smarkfagan)
       Post #: 429

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/15/2007 12:36:19 AM   
Balsawings


 

Posts: 84
Joined: 6/16/2004
From: Miami, FL, USA
Status: online 		Started putting together my RV-4 today. While shrinking the few minor wrinkles I noticed the trailing edges of the Rudder and Elevators are flat. In my 25 years of flying RC I've never seen this done, especially on control surfaces this thick. Usually they would be rounded.

The question: Is this the way it's done on all of them or is it something new to the run my kit come from? If this is common on all of them, I won't worry about it. The thought is that having flat/square trailing edges on these control surfaces causes turbulance and loss of control effectivness.

Any thoughts or comments?

Thanks

Bob

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(in reply to Whistling Death)
       Post #: 430

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/15/2007 3:48:02 AM   
Whistling Death


 

Posts: 1070
Joined: 3/1/2006
From: Alexander City, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Mine are flat. I think they left the rudder and elevator flat because this plane isn't a speed demon. And let me tell you, it don't matter a bit with this plane because it is a very forgiving, gental plane. Once you put it in the air you will never think about them again.

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(in reply to Balsawings)
       Post #: 431

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/18/2007 5:51:23 PM   
Ken Cz


 

Posts: 75
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: Oxford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Hi,
About to begin the cowl installation on my RV-4 1/4 scale.
Would appreciate any good tips or techniques for how to locate the hole in the cowl for Mixture Adjustment Screw extension.

I had heard of a way that involved taping strips of paper to fuse, rearward of where the cowl edge would be, marking the paper with the correct location - without the cowl in place, then putting the cowl on and transfer the location onto the cowl?
Seems like it might work but looking for any other ideas or pitfalls!

Thanks!Ken

(in reply to Whistling Death)
       Post #: 432

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/19/2007 4:01:53 AM   
Whistling Death


 

Posts: 1070
Joined: 3/1/2006
From: Alexander City, AL, USA
Status: offline 		The paper template method, as you mentioned, is the best way to do this. Make sure you use as wide a piece of paper as you can so it won't flex. Personally I use card stock just to give it little bit more stiffness.


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(in reply to Ken Cz)
       Post #: 433

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/20/2007 7:31:09 PM   
bnflyn


 

Posts: 32
Joined: 1/3/2005
From: Lees Summit, MO, USA
Status: offline 		I tried have the paper strip method, except I used .003" brass sheet stock to get some stiffness and the template method and maybe several others and was not completely satisfied with the results. Heres how I do it now.

I use a Craftsman Laser Trac laser leveler. This laser leveler is the type that transmitts a long line against a wall and the laser beam can be rotated 90 degrees with a thumb wheel.

Set the airplane of the table with the cowl off and the mixture screw in place. Weigh or anchor slightly the wheels so the airplane does not accidently get bumped and moved during the procedure.

Set the laser beam line to horizontal and block the instrument up so the horizontal line crosses the exact center of the mixture screw. Turn off the laser beam but do not disturb its position. Mount the cowl on the airplane. Turn on the laser beam and it will cast a line horizontly on the cowl. Mark the location of the laser line on the cowl using any method you prefer in the approximate location of the mixture screw.. Turn off the laser beam.

Now remove the cowl, turn on the laser beam and rotate it 90 degrees from the first position and place the beam so it crosses the exact center of the mixture screw 90 degrees to the first measurment. Turn off the beam, being careful not to bump it out of position, remount the cowl on the airplane and turn on the laser beam and mark the location where the laser beam intersects the first line made on the cowl. Obviously this is the exact location where the mixture screw is located.

This procedure works especially well on compound curved cowl surfaces.

I just checked the Sears website, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00948251000P?adCell=A3, and the Laser Trac is currently listed at $19.99, down from $34.99 that I bet I paid several years ago.

Hope this helps,

Bernie

(in reply to Whistling Death)
       Post #: 434

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/21/2007 3:05:07 AM   
smarkfagan


 

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/10/2005
From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Ask a hundred people and get a hundred answers, but for me a piece of manilla folder is all the job calls for. It is 1) readily available; 2) extremely cheap; 3) most importantly, extremely reliable; 4) very simple; and 5) start to finish, took less time than it did to type this reply.

Another elegant solution is oversize the hole enough to accept a JR-style round rubber servo mount grommet; the extension rod fits through the hole through the grommet well, isolates vibration, and looks finished. Again, a 30-second job.

(in reply to bnflyn)
       Post #: 435

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/25/2007 8:56:41 PM   
Ken Cz


 

Posts: 75
Joined: 11/1/2006
From: Oxford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Hi Guys,
Getting ready to install the vertical and horizontal stabilizer to the fuse on my RV-4 1/4 scale.

Would like to use 30min. epoxy for strength.
Applying it to the top of horizontal stab is not a problem - I can slide the stab into the slot and apply epoxy from the top through the vertical stab/rudder slot, move the h/stab left to right to spread it.

Problem is how do I apply epoxy to the lower surface of the h/stab? If I apply epoxy to the stab surface and then slide it into the slot in the fuse it will just get forced out the opposite side for the most part. Not effective and a mess to boot!

How about epoxy on the top and wick CA onto to the bottom side afterwards?

Also thought about adding holes/slot to h/stab on centerline adding epoxy/CA through them.

Your thoughts, tips and techniques please.

Merry Christmas,
Ken

(in reply to smarkfagan)
       Post #: 436

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/26/2007 12:00:35 AM   
Whistling Death


 

Posts: 1070
Joined: 3/1/2006
From: Alexander City, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Ken, the regular font works really well. That large font kind of makes my eyes bleed,lol.
I used CA on the horizontal stab. Some guys aren't comfortable with this but once again I trusted GP and followed the directions. After 30 flights it's still there. When you put the Vertical stab. on you can use epoxy and that will help to lock it in.

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AMA# 856000

(in reply to Ken Cz)
       Post #: 437

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/26/2007 12:10:51 AM   
smarkfagan


 

Posts: 32
Joined: 5/10/2005
From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I did the same thing as BBOwen, CA on bottom and epoxy on top. I've only about 10 flights in, but it's still there. There's a lot of contact area there for the CA to bond to. In my opinion the wood will fail before the CA. I mean, hey, those are BIG elevators and rudder for a plane like this and CA's all that's holding them on.

(in reply to Whistling Death)
       Post #: 438

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 12/26/2007 4:21:31 AM   
Arceenut


 

Posts: 98
Joined: 11/14/2005
From: Aldergrove, BC, CANADA
Status: online 		I used CA on it the way GP insrtucted and epoxied the fin. No problems so far after about 20 flights. As smarkfagen says -- there is a lot area for the CA to bond to so there should be no problem.

(in reply to smarkfagan)
       Post #: 439

RE: Great Planes RV-4 .60-.90 ARF - 1/6/2008 2:38:52 AM