Skyshark P-40N Build

Skyshark P-40N Build (Full Version)

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fockewulf37 -> Skyshark P-40N Build (1/10/2007 1:29:18 PM)
I know there has already been a build on this plane but there was not alot of info or pic's on changes or actually putting it together. So here Mine. I bought my Kit off E-Bay about 2 weeks ago. I came in and of course Fedex punched a hole right throught the top of the box and it also had a couple other minor creases in the box. But the plane was packed pretty well and the only thing damaged was the wheel weel covers. I called and talked to Mike at Skyshark and he was very nice and said he knew the Gentleman that sold the kit and had replacement wheels wells and would get then in the mail...He would also handle the claim with Fedex.

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/10/2007 1:32:12 PM)
While i was talking to Mike I also ordered some of the touch up paint and also stars and bars decals for the plane. I hate to do it but I plan to paint over the sharks mouth to apply a diffent paint scheme... Ty

Connery -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/10/2007 2:12:43 PM)
Since it's a little TOO green, I'm thinking of repainting mine completely with warbird colors paint.

rrudytoo -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/10/2007 2:21:24 PM)
Hey Ty, I personally think it's a great idea to change out the paint scheme on any ARF. A large part of my shying away from them is the "belly button" image they all share.............everybody has the same, exact plane lined up on the flightline. Where's the pride in that? Your decision to alter the scheme into something unique will set your bird apart from the herd in short order. I haven't seen a P-40 in those markings before. What group, squadron and theater was that assigned to? I like it! This will prove to be an interesting series of posts that I'm looking forward to watching. Thanks, Ty. Al

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/10/2007 5:44:52 PM)
I ran across this one on the internet: P-40N of 502nd Fighter Squadron in 1942, Napier, AL. It was a Training Squadron I have been told... Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/10/2007 10:17:47 PM)
I am planning to go along in the steps the plans have but make changes as needed. First I took the wings out and ironed all the wrinkles out of the covering. Next I went ahead and cut away the covering over the servo holes and the wheel well. Make sure that you iron all the edges before you cut away any covering. I checked the fit of all the servo bays and found that I need to widen one side or the other about a 1/32 to 1/16" to get them to fit. I am using all standard servos on this plane except for the elevators and i'll use 1 high torque each side and one on the rudder. I trial fitted the alierons and flaps. It says leave about 1/16" gap. I found the surfaces were hard to move whan I got them in the right position without any alteration to the surfaces. I then did what I do all my control surfaces. I took the dremel tool and made small pockets for the hinges. Once i got this done all surfaces moved freely and had very little gap... TY

Connery -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/11/2007 1:58:18 AM)
Just noticed on the other build thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4394947/mpage_4/tm.htm that one of the guys just received his desert camo version and it came with the correct ROUNDED landing gear fairings!!! I'm going to talk to Angie tomorrow and see if they have and "replacement parts" available that I can swap mine with.

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/11/2007 4:36:11 AM)
I have now gotten all teh wing surfaces hinged but not to the wing yet. On the plans it tell you to put a drop of oil on the pivot point to keep the hing from getting glue in it. Well I have a different way. I have been doing this for years. I take a piece of plastic. A zip lock bag is good. I cut it into strips . about 1/2"x 1". I then take an exacto tool with a round point on it and I pierce the center of the plastic piece. The hole is still small. I then insert the side of the point hinge that is going into the surface. I now have a guard to keep glue off of the hinge. Some plastics work better than others. I then glue the hinge in. Once it is dry just pull the plastic out..Here is an example. TY

Corsair 29 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/11/2007 3:55:28 PM)
Hey Ty, Can you check the length of the wing tube on yours? Mine seems to be short by 2". one inch per wing.In order for it to meet with the inner rib. I measured the pipe included, and I got 1 3/16" OD, 1 1/16" ID, I need about 22" to 22 1/4" in length. Thanks

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/11/2007 4:04:41 PM)
I think I saw an earlier post on this by you elsewhere. I was going to do what you said and mark the center and only push it in that far. Also if anyone is interested I just talked to Skyshark and that more scale fairing for the gear fairing Is not available. The lady I talked to is not sure if they are going to stock it as a replacement part. It does come on the new Camo version of the plane though... Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/11/2007 7:32:32 PM)
I was fitting the flaps in their place and still could not get the flap to seat into place. So I took the same dremel tool and just barely touched the trailing edge of the wing where the flap hinges go. This allowed the hing and flap to seat into position with a gap of about the 1/16" it calls for.

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/11/2007 7:40:32 PM)
I then installed the control horn. I was reading in the instructions that if you placed to servos as shown when you went to install your control horns there was hard wood to allow you to run screw into. They do provide metal control horn with srews that will go all the way through the control surfaces. You won't see the top on the flap so I went ahead to installed as stated in instructions.. I did find that the control horn does bottom out by hitting the wing surface . It does aloow the 2" flap throw they recommend. But I did have to grind away a little of the bottom part.... Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/11/2007 7:47:19 PM)
I fitted the alierons and they were fine. I went to install the same control horn. I did not want anything showing on top of the wing. I took a pin and checked for hard point to install the screws into, but could not finad any. So I installed the control horns like I do on my own planes. I took a 5/16 dowel. An cut it to my desired length. I drilled a 5/16" hole into the leading edge of the alieron. I then trail fit teh dowel. The then removed the dowel and drill a 3/32" hole in the center of the dowel. I then took a ball link set and installed it into the dowel. After it all fit I then epoxied teh dowel into the alieron... I have way more than called for control surface travel. Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/12/2007 4:19:17 AM)
Well, I have both wings to the same point with all the control surfaces hinged. I was going to follow along with teh instructions but I usually have a hard time with that and like to do my own thing. I felt since teh wing was easier to handle in 2 pieces I would go ahead and install the Landing gear. I bought the Sierra Gear for this plane and they look great and will and work very well. Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/12/2007 4:32:24 AM)
I had read in other post that the aluminium spar would have to be knotched to get the gear in. I figured if i went ahead and installed the gear now I could just cut the fiberglass tube first and then the Aluminium one later. First you have to remove the small piece of covering right at the end of the gear mount. The you will see a spar. A piece of the spar has to be removed. Then you can try to fit the gear. When you try to lay the gear in it hits the rounded part of the shear web of the wing. I took a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and made that piece straight across. The gear still would not go in. I then had to take the cutoff wheel and go about 1/8" deeper and straight across. The gear was in but now hitting the Tube. I knotched the tube a little at a time and got the gear to lay in the proper place. I then marked the correct location for the 6-32 machine screws and drill and tapped right into the wood. The gear was very easy to install. I just now have to run all the airlines. Before I put the wing halves together I will mark the wing tube and grind out the proper area. I may do as discussed before and slip a wood dowel into the tube just in the area that had been ground out... Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/13/2007 4:30:51 AM)
I am glad I decided to go ahead and install the gear first. This allowed me to get the spar Knotched before I glues it in. Once I had it all set up I Marked the center of the tube. As posted in other threads teh spar does not touch each end of teh spar tube. So I found the center of the tube and slid it into place. I the marked all the way aroud the tube with a pencil. I then marked the tube at the wing and tube to make sure I pu it back in at the correct location. I then Marked the tube where it had to be knotched out. I did this on both sides at once. I removed the tube and I took a dremel cutoff wheel and cut out the correct area. I then reinstalled the tube and checked for Gear clearence. It fit just fine. When I had the tube in hand I pondered about puttin a wood plug in the knotched area. I came to a conclusion the tube is just mot under alot of stress especially at this point inthe wing. So I just left it alone. Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/13/2007 4:41:28 AM)
It was almost time to Join the wing halves. One thing I did do Is, I took CA and ran across all the rib/sheeting joints I could reach in teh mid section and in the wheel wells. I just don't know what kind of glues is used in these models and want to make sure nothing comes apart. I then drilled out the hole on the side of ribs #1 with a 1/4" BIT. I cut a small piece of 1/4" dowel and glued it into one half. This made my alignment perfect. I took 30 minute epoxy and applied it to half of the wing tube and slid into place. I then applied to the other half and to the rib#1. I slid the wing together and use a large clamp to hold it together. Be carefuk not to apply too much pressure if using a clamo.

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/13/2007 4:53:06 AM)
Now it time to mate the wing to the fuse. The ABS template is pretty thin and I worried about getting this right. I does not tell you but you should find the center of the ABS piece and mark it. You should laso find the center of the fuse where the wing plugs into. Once I had the center I held it into place with clothes pics. I marked the locations using the template and removed and drilled out the holes. I them took My template and placed it onto the wing. You could not see the center so I used my cutoff wheel to open a slit so I could center this on the wing. Once it was centered I held in place and drilled out the holes. While drilling I discoverd there is not hardwood in teh leading edge. I usually put a piece in there but there is no way into this area. I did cut new dowels and didi not use the one that came with the kit. I made mine about 5 " long. I left the part sticking out of the wing about an 1.25 long. I did this in case I messed up the location in the fuse. I could drillout the fuse hole larger and use 1" round donuts to correct the location. But it all fit perfectly.

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/13/2007 4:59:53 AM)
I then fitted the wing onto the fuse. The instructions say drill 1/4 hole through the wing into the hold down plate and then use blind nuts. I don't like using blind nuts so I drill out the hole with 13/64 bit. I drill one and leave the bit in place so i don't mess up any alignment. I then drill the other side. I then remove the wing. I made 2 1"x1" ply blocks and glues them to the top side of the wing holddown plate. I then drill through with the 13/64 bit. I then drilled and tapped the block with a 1/4x20 thread bit. I then drill out the wing with a 1/4" bit. The wing fits up very nicely.

Meschmidt -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/14/2007 4:21:36 AM)
Want to add a note of observation since you are on the wing dowels at this point. As fockewulf37 stated, there is no hardwood on the leading edge of the wing. I replaced the supplied 1/4" dowels with 5/16" dowels on the initial build and glued in with 30 minute epoxy. These worked loose on the second flight. I replaced them again with 3/8" dowels about 4" long. They worked loose again after about 8 flights. Looks like I'm going to have to cut into the wing and put some plywood there to support the inside end of the dowels. Evidently it's rocking the glue joints loose since the wood is so soft. I'll let you know how it turns out! Paul

samparfitt -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/14/2007 12:12:48 PM)
Last Fall, a pilot lost his plane when the wing came off. The front dowels came out. Unless this has been corrected, it seems best to cut an access through the wing sheeting and reinforce this area.

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/15/2007 12:20:16 PM)
Thanks for the input Paul and Samuel. I think this is standard pratice for the ARF planes. My KMP 96" OV-10 also has the dowels glued into a balsa leading edge. I reinforced those areas as I built the OV-10. And after I drilled into this one I became concerned. I don't knock Skyshark though because I do think this is standard pratice and since the ARF's are getting larger they may have to take this into account in the future.

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/15/2007 1:23:05 PM)
The Dowel issue was an easy fix. It took me about 30minutes to remedy the issue. It would have been easier if I had done it before installing the dowels though. While the wing was on the fuse I cut a small area to access the back side of the dowel on the bottom of the wing. I was lucky and no epoxy had gotten all over the back side of the leading edge. I cut 2- 1.5" plywood squares out. I then slide them in and marked them so I could drill hole for dowel to go through. I also had to clean out any glue from the building process so the ply would be flush with back of leading edge. Once I drill out the holes for the dowel thsy fit in place pretty well. Once I had them both fitting like I wanted I used epoxy and clamped both in place. Once the epoxy dry I applied more epoxy to the back side. I had to drill out the hole in the ply to 9/32's to fit over the dowel....Even though this will not be seen I cleaned up the installation with 2 pieces of balsa. You can install these and still drill dowel holes using the template provided... Ty

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/15/2007 1:59:38 PM)
Next thing I did was to put on the belly pan. If you lay the bellyypan on the wing you will notice that the lip of the pan is turned up a little. It advise you to heat it with a hot air gun and rub it down and hold with tape. I found this very hard to get it to stay down. It really wanted to keep turning up. Well I fixed it by heating it up and holding the lip downward until it was cool and it stayed that way. The way I did it was I applied clothes pins along the area I need to bend downward. I then took the hot air gun and heated until the weight of the colthes pins made the lip bend. I then left them on unitl it cooled. The lip stayed in the downward position. I did this all the way around the belly pan....

fockewulf37 -> RE: Skyshark P-40N Build (1/15/2007 2:10:47 PM)
Once the lip was where I wanted it I traced the outline onto the wing. The bellypan still wanted the spread a little. I also look at the instructions and saw that they use weights to hold the pan into place until the glue dried. I tried this in a dry run and it too made the pan spread too much causing the new downward tured lip to turn up with the weight. So I decided to hold it into place with #2 button head screws. I drilled the hole in the pan where I wanted them and then I used pushpin to make holes in the wing in the right place. I needed to give the screws something to hold too. So I installed a piece of 1/16" ply in the location of the holes. This would have been easier if i had done it before joining the wing, but i still got it in the right area.. I then followed the instructions and I put pin holes along the teh area I was to glue the pan to. I mixed up the 30 minute epoxy and applied to both sides. I put the pan in place and screwed it down. The screws held the pan in place without having tho add any weight. Don't be tempted to use 5 minute epoxy. You won't have enough time to get the screws in place. TY

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