Yucholian

My Feedback: (7)

I've acquired NIB OS 61 rear exhaust Hanno Special. Any recommendation on a pattern kit besides the Chaos? Has anyone run this engine with anything other than the Hanno Special tuned pipe? I have a normal tuned pipe and was wondering if it'll work. Thanks.

s. wallace

My Feedback: (24)

The Hanno's were great engines. Take a look at the website for Precision Aero Composites- you will find several nice choices for 60 size engines. LA-1, Jekyll, Conquest etc...these were the premier pattern planes of the day before the 1.20 YS came along.
If you decide to go with a Bridi design choose the Great Escape over the Kaos for that engine.

Yes, you need a long chamber pipe. The Hatori 650 will work great if you can find one. Try a "want ad" before you spend the money on a new OS pipe. Lots of guys that have been in pattern for a while should have a serviceable pipe they would part with for a reasonable price.

Scott

Yucholian

My Feedback: (7)

Ah, I guess I need to measure up the pipe I have and see where it falls for a 60 size engine. Thanks Scott.

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

PAC makes many excellent Fiberglass/foam kits - the
Conquest 6/7, too.
Dick Hanson of DHModels makes the Runaround and Elite kits. Henry Piorun may still make the Meridian, though I've heard it can sometimes take a while to get a kit from him.
I've flown the LA-1, Conquest 6, Conquest 7, Runaround and ELite. The last 4 were powered wth Hannos. My personal favorite was the Runaround.
You can also get some great all balsa kits from MK.
Go to: www.hobbynet-jp.com and look under balsa kits. I have the SUper VR-90 kit (not built yet). It looks perfect for the Hanno and is a new design. I have bought kits from them and can recmmend them highly. The kit prices with shipping are expensive, but most glass/foam kits will cost at least $300 and the MK kits include complete hardware which is excellent.
Good luck. Let us know what you decide to build.
-Will B.

Yucholian

My Feedback: (7)

Anyone have links to these companies?

turbines

My Feedback: (9)

you might start at these two sites:

www.nsrca.org and

http://gcbmrc.com/index.htm

look at the T2A MkIV on the gcbmrc site. i get weak knees looking at that plane!

lk2fly

Yucholian

WHAT DID YOU DECIDE TO GET/ BUILD? I JUST GOT LUCKY AND FOUND ONE WITH THE MATCHING PIPE NEW IN THE BOXES AT THE LOCAL SHOP. I TOO WOULD LIKE TO BUILD A PATTERN. I HAVE A C.G. SUPER CHIPMUNK WITH A 61RF P. IT FLYS LIKE IT IS ON A RAIL.

Yucholian

My Feedback: (7)

I haven't decided yet. I've been busy with other planes, haven't had the time. I'm leaning towards good old Bridi Chaos. I already have a set of plans and there aren't too many commercial options for 60 size engines anymore. And when you do find one, they are a lot of money. Considering I got this engine for $60 new in box, I want to stay cheap.

Anthony-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Lots of options here. In addition to what was mentioned.
If you want to go cheap Bridi Great Escape is the most modern of his .60 size designs.
If you can scratch build RCM plans you could do a Gitano or Loaded Dice. Both excellent flierers and simple balsa and foam construction. Also Salients Boxer series which may have a built up wing option for the .60. Scratch building is not that hard and can be done pretty cheap if you are careful.
You might even find a Calypso ARF or ARC wich will work well also. Of course the Tai Ji and World models F3A if you want an ARF.

Anthony

Henniekuyper

Hi Everyone

Does anyone have a photo of the blue pipe? That was for the 61RF. Was it the Hatori # 601?

Thanks
Hennie

Jon Wold

E-mail singahobby and buy the Joker 60. Hanno engine in a Matt design is the ultimate combo. Trust me :-)
Or better yet, buy the EZ Mystic 90 ARF and fly the 1993 WC setup...[&:]

Henniekuyper

Hi Jon

Thanks for the reply. I do have a #601 Hatori and would like to use it with my 61 RF.

Hennie

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

This is my understanding:
The Hatori 601 is a 10cc Short Stroke pipe...In theory it should not be compatable with the Long Stoke RF engine but I have no practical experience to back that up...(I do know the baffle spacing is significantly different between the 601 & the 650)

The Hatori 650 is a 10cc Long Stroke pipe and will be sutiable for the RF engine...There is also a Hatori 700 which is listed as a 10cc long pipe, I assume it should be compatable also but again no practical experience with the 700...(I've only used the Hatori 650 or Bolly EQ 62 pipes)

If your engine is a Hanno Special version I think you'd wanna check into the Hanno Special pipe...

Here is a thread with a little more information:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_73...tm.htm#7306311

Hope that helps...

Chuck

Henniekuyper

Hi Chuck

Thanks for the info. I do have two Hanno's, but this is for the 61 RF without the pump. According to Tower Hobbies web you cannot use the RF with the Hanno pipe. O.S. made a Blue pipe which did go with this engine. I'd like to get information regarding that. If I study the pictures available the Hatori 601 looks identical. If there is someone with one that could measure it, then I'll know for sure. The number given by O.S. for that pipe is 72101110.


Regard
Hennie

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

Hennie,

OS blue pipe:

Overall length = 432mm

Divergent cone length = ~150mm

Max diameter = 40mm for 170mm constant legnth after divergent cone

First baffle = ~225mm from pipe entry or ~40mm from the first constsant diameter after the divergent cone.

Pipe inlet ID = 18mm

Stinger ID = 10mm


MACs Quiet pipe:

OAL = 460mm

Divergent cone length = ~120mm

Max diameter = 41mm for ~220mm constant

First baffle = ~280mm from inlet or ~120mm after the divergent cone

Inlet ID = 18mm

Stinger ID = 9mm

I'd bet any long stroke/large volume before the first baffle pipe would work by adjusting the header length.

HTH,

Terry in LP

Henniekuyper

Hi Terry

Thanks for the feedback!!

Do you have a nice pic of it?

Love to get a copy of that.

Hennie

Henniekuyper

Hi Terry

Just measuring the Hatori 601 pipe and found the following:

Overall length = 395mm

Divergent cone length = ~128mm

Max diameter = ~40mm for 180mm constant legnth after divergent cone

First baffle = ~225mm from pipe entry or ~40mm from the first constant diameter after the divergent cone.

Pipe inlet ID = 18mm

Stinger ID = 10mm

I think this could work!

There is some difference however.

Also see the attached pic.

Hennie

Dave Kelly

here's a link to a 2nd hand Hanno Pipe in the UK

http://www.gbrcaa.org/smf/index.php?topic=1134.0

hope it helps
Dave

dhal22

wow! a 6 1/2 yr thread bump!! don't see that a lot.

david

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

I wish I were smarter...I know there is allot of "tuned pipe theory" sort of information out there...I have never taken the time to study all the webpages I have bookmarked or I'd be a tuned pipe expert..he he

I have just done allot of research by reading old posts on the OS and YS engines 2 stroke engines trying to figure out what guys were doing back in the day...I'm just learning...

I always here "The first baffle"...Everything seems to be referenced off the first baffle for tuning purposes...

But I see a difference in the spacing of the second & third baffles on the Hatori 601 and 650 pipes... (I've never heard what that really means)

I've read guys were running the 601 for short stroke engines...The 601 use to be listed on Singapore Hobbies website as a "10cc" pipe

I've read guys were running the 650 for long stroke engines...The 650 is listed on Singapore Hobbies website as a "60L (Long)" pipe

I'm assuming the spacing between the second and third baffles must be what makes the pipe either a short or long stroke pipe??

I wish I knew more about that stuff...

Just my observations...

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

Several factors determine which pipe is best suited to each engine. When comparing pipes for 10cc S vs L engines it is the volume before the first baffle that is probably the most important difference. Notice how much more constant diameter pipe there is on the 650 pipe than on the 601 pipe. Also look at the RF Hanno red pipe compared to the SF/RF blue pipe. The red one has a much greater volume ahead of the first baffle. The multiple after chambers are more for noise abatement than boost. The rpm the engine will run at is also an important consideration. As in the well known tuning parameters of longer for lower rpm and shorter for higher rpm.

Terry in LP

Henniekuyper

Hi Everyone

Thanks Terry for the pic of the O.S. Blue pipe. Definitely different than the Hatori 601!

See the attached picture of the MAC pipe and O.S. blue pipe.

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks for posting the pic, Hennie.

Notice the position of the first baffle on these two pipes (ends of D-cones lined up) and compare the blue pipe to the 601 pictured above. The small black Sharpie mark on the blue one marks the approximate location of the 1st baffle. The 4 roundish, slightly dark spots (upper) on the MAC pipe near the stinger end are the 'weld' joints for the baffles in it. The MAC has about 2.5 x as much volume ahead of the 1st baffle than the OS and the OS pipe's volume is very similar to the Hatori 601.

Terry in LP