Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001 From: Goodyear, AZ, USA Status: offline
Ok OK.....I worked very hard over the last 2 weeks in prep and getting this thing painted. This past weekend got it finished up. Right now its ready to be rubbed out but it looks really good now....
I'm proud of the results and just trying to prove contrary to popular belief building and finishing wood pattern planes was not invented in the South East USA.
The work and effort that goes into the color schemes and the paint work that OXAI produces is beyond anything anybody at present produces. Here is why.....70hrs of work to prep and paint this repair.
Paint masks were from the original OXAI AutoCAD drawings. I had some friends help with that work. Learning to do the paint masks was another thing altogether from how do you cut the material I have, up to how do you paint with it. I can say this...this stuff is professional grade, and I feel I did a professional job in completing it. This was more of a see if I still could build a model, but also I give a big Kudos to OXAI for the model itself.
I can tell you right here and now I will be buying more planes from OXAI. The work and effort it takes to create a masterpiece like this is truly a load.
Weight change is what you are thinking...I added 3.8oz to the fuse from its raw weight it came from OXAI. The model was 9lbs 14oz when new so its still just a hair over a 10lb model. I predict is will finish out using the same equipment at 10lb 2-3oz.
So now that I have caught up with the rest of my chores after a weekend of painting. I can present to you a model that has been fully restored.
Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001 From: Goodyear, AZ, USA Status: offline
And now to get it fixed...as you can see above some cross bracing was installed that kept the stab and wing perfectly alinged. When the sides were completed and the new belly was ready to be attached, the structure was strong enough to remove this extra weight. So the DEPS was re-installed wiht the belly open and the new belly section glued in place.
The side sections were pieced together like a jigsaw puzzle. There was a support structure built inside to connect the old structure to the new sections.
Posts: 2412
Joined: 10/27/2002 From: Woodstock, GA, USA Status: offline
After pics?
Did you paint it back original, or pimp that ride? I'm not sure I could have resisted the temptation
Lotsa work isn't it? Rewarding though, IMHO.
Speaking of painting in the Southeast (we didn't invent it, we just made it better) lots of new planes being painted. Lots of airbrush stuff, it can be just as addictive as anything else! Just artistic expression, that's all. Still nothing wrong with a tasteful 4-5 color job, but what Oxai does with paint really makes those planes.
-M
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Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001 From: Goodyear, AZ, USA Status: offline
Next the belly was glued on the sanding began.
First to get the final shape and then to prep for glass work and painting.
I started with 80grit...worked my way to about 320 grit. Sand and fill sand and fill.
Then glassed the fuse areas. Sanding with 320grit up to 600grit wet. Sand and fill and sand and fill.
Primer K36 with the included instructions for tinting it white. I have done this for years I used DCC 900 which is the base white in the DCC line for the tint. You mix 2parts K36, 1 part DCC, 1 part K201, and then I mixed 4 parts DT885 Reducer.
The model was primered and sanded primer and sanded 4 times.
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Joined: 1/1/2003 From: GLENDALE,
AZ, USA Status: offline
I spent the day over there Monday, learning Troy's painting techniques. Took all day to mask, paint, and clean up for 3 stripes (2 colors) on each side. Painstakingly slow process, but the results I saw were nothing less than amazing. You almost won't be able to tell the plane was ever even damaged.
Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001 From: Goodyear, AZ, USA Status: offline
Now that the fuse is taking shape..we need a new Aileron and there is some damage to the wing... The biggest thing is the aileron was toast...Not even much to re-create from.
The original Aileron was balsa ribs as most of the OXAI models are. They are lighter and stiffer this way.
So you can see in the photos below what was left.
I had a root rib from the inboard wing at the aileron cut out and the tip rib template from the outboard aileron cut out area.
I measured up the aileron "cut out" and draw a set of "drawings/blue prints" for a new aileron. This was just done on paper with a pencil and ruler. Drfting skills are a plus.
The original had ribs place every 45mm or there about so My new one was the same. I made templates from paper to re-create the aileron ribs. All along its length. You have to account for a 1/4" trailing edge. A 3/8" Leading edge, and then you have to account for the 1/16" sheeting.
This photo is the first aileron I built. It was not as strong and I wanted. So I added a couple of spars at diagonals from LE to TE root to tip. Then on the other side I completed the X by going from the TE of the tip to the LE of the root. The spars were 1/8" square balsa ripped from a sheet of contest wood. The aileron is extremely stiff. All up weight glassed and painted to match is 32g. This this is light. Its very strong you could probably stand in the middle of it.
The aileron was fitted in the wing and final sanding was done so it fits perfect. Same gaps on the ends as the other side once it is glassed and painted. A 1/4" med balsa block was installed where the control horn will attach, and one of the ply plates that comes with the MK offset control horns was counter sunk into the aileron for a flush fit.
Then sanded and filled, sanded and filled, primer, sand primer sand.
Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001 From: Goodyear, AZ, USA Status: offline
Painting painting painting.....
Or should I say Masking Masking masking..then a spit of paint, then masking masking masking masking, then a spit of paint.
Remember that the model was primered with K36 Tinted with DCC per the K36 instruction sheet. The Primer was reduced a bunch extra. I don't know how much each time. I don't measure anymore. I dump it in until it sprays right.
has to have the Milk consistency when it runs down the stir stick. For paint colors its a skim milk consistency.
The K36 is a catalyzed primer. It is fuel proof. The DCC tinting it is also fuel proof. I then spray my colors in DBC.....
Not fuel proof colors. These are Base coat colors. It makes it easy to spray..you can mask in about 20mins, and the colors are nearly impossible to run. They go on dry and look dull until the clear comes. You can also wet sand the DBC is you choose before clear, and it work just fine. The DCC paint or Concept is fuel proof. Its like having the clear in the colors. This is what Tony Stillman sells as the Radio South paints. They work really well. However you can do one color a day. You can't mask it for about 6-8hrs safely. Metallics are a paint to get to look right and the paint is pretty toxic at each stage. But if you do it right you need no clear at all. These paints are about the heaviest out there. So you need to reduce them down and do many light coats.
The DBC colors while not fuel proof in the color have no catalyst. The extra you have left over is just reduced, and you can throw it back into the can, no wasted paint. It dries fast and goes on very thin and light. As in super light. All the colors and painting you see before the logo when on added 6g to the total weight of the model after the primer was done. That less than 1/4oz for all these painted colors for the pigment. There are metallics, pearls, and funky colors.
Downside. The color is not fuel proof, I can't say that enough....but I then Spray the clear that is fuel proof. So the primer is fuel proof, and the clear is fuel proof. SO the colors in between are captured on both sides by fuel proof material. If you scratch through the clear you need to fix it...Feul will take off the stripe....but it will only take it off to the primer. The wood and model are still protected.
Another note the K36 being catalyzed you need to sand it everywhere. If you don't it will have a "shell" on it and the paint will not stick well. So you need to to at least 400grit to 600grit everywhere there is primer. It sands very easy. Probably easier than balsa.
Then the paint mask was applied to recreate the exact Zeque logo...The paint was first done with a metallic silver. The same one used for the silver stripes. Then I started adding black to it for a darker and darker mix. I eventually have the top of the letters about 90% black, and bottom of the letters 100% silver. This is very close to the original...Mine is a little darker....but over all it matches the Zeque logo on the wing well. and it looks good.
Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001 From: Goodyear, AZ, USA Status: offline
And finally the clear. I use The PPG 2042 Speed clear. I used the Omni clear for a while but I didn't like it as much. The Speed Clear 2042...is really good.
The idea is not to dip it in clear. This clear is a High solids clear and it will protect better for UV and also it will polisha nd buff out better too.
So spray the parts with clear. I reduce the heck out of the clear. Like 2-3 times the reducer. The Omni call for no reducer and it will get hazzy with some in it. The 2042 can take the DT 885 reducer.
Let the paint set up for about 5-10mins...I then where there are spots that are a little dry after everything is coated well...I dump out all but 1/2oz of clear into one of my mxing cups in case I need it again...I then add about 2oz of straight reducer to the 1/2oz of 2042 that is already in the gun and like water from the extra reducer in the mix. Now you have to be very careful or you will get runs....you are shooting about 70% raw reducer on the model. But put a coat that makes the model look all wet....Not enough to build just to look wet. This will melt any of the 2042 that is organe peel looking. The dry dusty look at the overlaps. In a warm climate the reducer will flash off pretty quick...but be careful you can make a mess. If you do Just stop....wet sand again and try it again.
A body shop guy will call this a Hack Fade. The crappy body shops like Macco will do this in the middle of a fender....but on our models they are so small and the contours changing you won't even see it....It will melt the dry spray into the finish and it will look like glass.
The newly painted area will look better than original.
Posts: 2429
Joined: 12/30/2001 From: Goodyear, AZ, USA Status: offline
Note the photos when they got reduced in size show some jagged lines for the stripes....
So here is one full size.
This is the left side of the model that was missing.
Will post some more photos when I get a chance I don't have one of the wing and aileron together to show the match up lines...But they do just like the fuse.
So after all of this....rebuilding repainting and so on...I have 130hrs in this project...Its not rubbed and buffed out yet. But it is looking really good...
Or that my be just my opinion. I'll let you now to return to your regularly scheduled build threads.
Does this repair count toward the Concourse D'elegance at the NATS?
Troy Newman
PS. I tried to post it all together at one time....but I see that can't happen on RCU...the lurkers are always there. BiG smile....
Its OK...I did the task and its here for all to see. I'm proud of my effort. Took way too long to get it right but I would fly it for sure.
So 130hrs.....at $15 per hour....Which is working cheap for this kind of labor.....$1950 for the repair. At Slave wages.
I think I'll buy another airplane from Sam. Hello Oxai........
< Message edited by Troy Newman -- 5/8/2008 12:36:53 AM >
Posts: 212
Joined: 9/6/2004 From: placentia, CA, USA Status: offline
Great post Troy,
Did you wet sand the whole thing and clear coat everything, or did you just shoot clear over the touch up area and let the stuff fade/blend together with your reduced clear spray?
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