Midwest AT-6 engine recommendations  
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Midwest AT-6 engine recommendations - 2/12/2002 8:02:38 PM   
WGRoper


 

Posts: 89
Joined: 2/12/2002
From: Cartersville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I'm planning on building a Midwest AT-6 and I'm seeking information on gas engines for the plane. Some fly G-23s, some fly G-38s, maybe a BME.... Anyone tried or know someone who has tried a Fuji 34cc? Price seems reasonable, weight is comparable to the G-23 and power is a little better. Seems like the way to go if it's reliable.

Also, anyone using Rich Uravitch's fiberglass parts and "cosmetikit" for the AT-6? These parts seems to be high quality and inexpensive.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Greg Roper
[URL=http://bcma.rcclubs.com]Bartow County Model Aviation[/URL]
       Post #: 1

Midwest AT-6 engine recommendations - 2/13/2002 11:50:20 AM   
mselby



Posts: 378
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Bangkok, THAILAND
Status: offline 		Rich's parts kit is quite useful and as you mentioned inexpensive. I had a G23 on my Midwest and found that it was more than enough power. I haven't used the Fuji 34, but it would probably give more vertical performance. On the other hand the AT6 was not known for unlimited vertical.
Mike

(in reply to WGRoper)
       Post #: 2

Midwest AT-6 engine recommendations - 2/13/2002 5:43:25 PM   
WGRoper


 

Posts: 89
Joined: 2/12/2002
From: Cartersville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the advice. I agree that the AT-6 wasn't a powerhouse, but if I can get a fractional increase in power for the same weight and cost, I'd do it. Nothing like a little extra power to get you out of trouble when you need it, eh?

Did you build yours with flaps? I'm looking for some ideas on how that is done. Everyone says it's easy enough, but I haven't seen one that has had them added. I guess I'll pick up the kit and start figuring it out....

Thanks,
Greg

(in reply to WGRoper)
       Post #: 3

Midwest AT-6 engine recommendations - 3/7/2002 10:09:52 PM   
Thomas B.


 

Posts: 8
Joined: 3/7/2002
From: Taby, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		I made my flap afterwards but I strongly recommend that you build it in from the beginning. The flap was made 75 mm x 435 mm (approx. 3" x17" . I placed the Hitec HS84BB servo about 60 mm (2,4" in front of the flap and mounted the servo with servo tape on the 55 x 60 mm (2,2" x 2,4" hatch.

I made the flap from two sheets of 0,040" plywood laminated together with epoxy. With the 90-degree flap the model almost stopped in the air with the nose pointing almost strait up! I gradually lowered the extension and now I have 35mm (1.38" , that’s about 40 degrees.
I have mixed in a down compensation on the elevator of 6mm (0.25" and this makes lowering the flaps uneventful.

I have three pictures but they where too large to include. E-mail me privately if you want copies.

Best regards
Thomas

(in reply to WGRoper)
       Post #: 4

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