Posts: 870
Joined: 5/25/2002 From: Catoosa,
OK, USA Status: offline
Yes, that should do it. You're like me, nothing I had on hand was useable on the MX heli. I even went as far as to use a whip antenna instead of the long, dangling one on the receiver.
Posts: 456
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: Golden,
CO, USA Status: offline
los08 - thanks for the replies, I am already looking for other alternatives in the battery dept.
Lightning Apex Power 2200mAh 3S1P 11.1V pack 12C (Long) $43.00 Thunder Power 3S1P LiPoly Pack 2100 mAh 11.1V 15C $69.95 duralite, kokum, align , etc... That will come later though.
whstlngdeath - How about this, Add a ball link to the servo end as well and utilize these Micro servo arms I found, It won't be the MG servo buy they fit on the 65 HB karbonite.
No z - bends which will reduce slop or not really necessary. ONly 6.00 ea and they have a double arm for the L/R Cyclic Where did you find the whip antenna, does it give instructions for cutting to correct length so you do not lose distance.
Thanks a bunch, Jeff
< Message edited by jw637362 -- 2/13/2007 5:14:01 PM >
Posts: 870
Joined: 5/25/2002 From: Catoosa,
OK, USA Status: offline
jw, If you're getting the Pro version of the heli, it comes with ball ends for all the servo arms except the tail servo. I went ahead and put a ball on the tail servo arm too. I'm using the plastic arms that came with the servos with no problems. The aluminum ones would work just as well. The whip antenna I got is the Revolution brand, that Horizon Hobby sells:
Posts: 456
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: Golden,
CO, USA Status: offline
Well, just for an update on my MX-400.
Here it is so far.
I have taken the advise given. Helimax MX-400 pro T-rex tail boom servo mounts Hitec 65 HB servos Align Heat sink on the motor. Getting better wood or carbon blades, please advise on this what would be best.
Still need the ghyro but that will be last.
I am very impressed with it as they are very intriquite machines, can't wait to fly it. I saw another heli and fell in love with the color schem and thought I would kind of go off of it. Bright Colors and easy to see. Still in the works though.
Posts: 241
Joined: 5/22/2002 From: Orlando, FL, USA Status: offline
Looks nice Jw. I just ordered the 275mm Carbons from Helimax because that is what fits on the stock tail. The longer tail boom is required if you want to move to longer blades..
Posts: 456
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: Golden,
CO, USA Status: offline
los08 - Thanks for the tip on the Blades, never even thought about getting a longer tail boom Is it accurate that the Longer the boom the easier it is to control? I'll put a 3 footer on it................. ................
Also - Just curious as it seems to be a great price - Is this directly compatible with the mx-400 pro or would anyone even recommend it in the first place.
Posts: 510
Joined: 2/23/2005 From: Flushing,
NY, USA Status: offline
According to many the CopterX is a direct clone of the T-rex SE . It is 120 degree swash for eCCPM which means you would have to get the conversion frames (upper frame halves) to run that head. I do not know anyone who has the CopterX yet, but I've only seen good reviews on it. I'm thinking of going with that head and the matching tail on my MX400.
quote:
ORIGINAL: jw637362
los08 - Thanks for the tip on the Blades, never even thought about getting a longer tail boom Is it accurate that the Longer the boom the easier it is to control? I'll put a 3 footer on it................. ................
Also - Just curious as it seems to be a great price - Is this directly compatible with the mx-400 pro or would anyone even recommend it in the first place.
Posts: 295
Joined: 3/28/2003 From: Windsor,
CT, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: whstlngdeath
I went ahead and put a ball on the tail servo arm too.
Sorry to interrupt here: After putting the ball on the tail servo arm how do you attach the ball link to the tail pushrod (which is only threaded on one end)? I bought a threading die but it doesn't make large enough threads for the plastic ball link, it just slides on and off.
Posts: 456
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: Golden,
CO, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Commander_Drake Sorry to interrupt here: After putting the ball on the tail servo arm how do you attach the ball link to the tail pushrod (which is only threaded on one end)? I bought a threading die but it doesn't make large enough threads for the plastic ball link, it just slides on and off.
They want you to use a Z-bend on the servo arm in the book, not the ball link on the arm. But z-bends are horrible. I utilized a dubro EZ Connector on the servo arm, Ball link on the tail end. I have used them for years from my plane stuff. By having the servo on the tail boom, and tilting the servo, I managed to get a perfectly straight connection. Then just cut the rod to length.You will have no slop in the connection and the ball link will not rotate around like the other ball link connections.
Once you have the desired cut and such, flatten the area where the set screw goes and loctite the screw, tighten the heck out of it.
Posts: 456
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: Golden,
CO, USA Status: offline
NY Rebel - thanks for the reminder - I keep forgeting about the mechanical and CCPM thing. I don't want to change over so I'll find something else that will work, just want to upgrade the plastic stuff next but not a necessity. I'll stick with the using the mx450 head unless it is ccpm as well.
Has anyone else noticed the binding on the mx 400 pro stock head unit on the ball links when they pass through the Fly bar metal center arm. My plastic links rub on it and I really do Not like it at all. Maybe it won't make a lick of difference when it is running.
Posts: 510
Joined: 2/23/2005 From: Flushing,
NY, USA Status: offline
The MX450 is eCCPM. There are mCCPM CNC heads for t-rex which will fit our birds but so far the cheapest I've found is $120. If I'm going to spend that much, I'll just convert to eCCPM.
quote:
ORIGINAL: jw637362
NY Rebel - thanks for the reminder - I keep forgeting about the mechanical and CCPM thing. I don't want to change over so I'll find something else that will work, just want to upgrade the plastic stuff next but not a necessity. I'll stick with the using the mx450 head unless it is ccpm as well.
Has anyone else noticed the binding on the mx 400 pro stock head unit on the ball links when they pass through the Fly bar metal center arm. My plastic links rub on it and I really do Not like it at all. Maybe it won't make a lick of difference when it is running.
Posts: 870
Joined: 5/25/2002 From: Catoosa,
OK, USA Status: offline
jw, I noticed the binding on the seesaw that you refer to. I took a dremel tool with a bullet shaped grinding stone and enlarged the cutouts on the seesaw that clear the links. You pretty much have to take the head apart and the flybar has to come out to do the cleaning up. It did improve the elevator control a little bit, but I don't think that it's necessary to do. It will loosen up by itself over time, and I doubt that it makes that much difference. For sure, go over all the screws and bolts that attach to metal and see that they have some thread locker on them. I found some loose screws and no Loc-tite on them. If one screw lets loose on the head while you're flying, it's curtains for the heli.
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Helimax >> RE: Mx-400 purchase 
RE: Mx-400 purchase - 
Is it accurate that the Longer the boom the easier it is to control? 
................ 
