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RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/23/2008 8:49:46 PM   
Jim Dines


 

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Joined: 2/27/2002
From: Keller, TX, USA
Status: online
The oil mix recommendations in the manual are for the first 2-3 hours of break in. I use a synthetic blend I use in my lawn care engines. It exceeds JASO FC specifications. I use the "extra" oil mix for the first few hours of running, then to a more standard 40:1.

(in reply to mikkeljunker)
       Post #: 326

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/23/2008 9:13:59 PM   
mikkeljunker


 

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From: København, DENMARK
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Okay. I just use normal non synthetic oil.
I wil put som more oil in the fuel container.

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       Post #: 327

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/24/2008 12:33:04 PM   
old git


 

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From: BelvedereKent, UNITED KINGDOM
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My engine just arrived and looks complete and in good condition.

I bought new on Flea-bay from a Japanese? address.

**** CLEARING STOCK **** CRRC PRO GF26I 26CC Gas Engine (300238955792)

I think they have more.




I've not run it yet but so far I am very hopeful. On examination I saw signs that it had been mounted. The Manual tells of it having been test run and settings arrived at.

Everything about the motor and packaging looks pristine as does the silencer. I have a non contact tacho on order and will give figures when I eventually run the motor.



old git - - - - aka John L.

(in reply to mikkeljunker)
       Post #: 328

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/24/2008 1:20:54 PM   
jimcork1



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Joined: 1/29/2002
From: Slidell, LA, USA
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Just update on the ccrc 50. The manual states 100 octane. This week I used premimum 93 octane no ethanol and 3 oz of Belray premimum synthetic oil. The mixture for Belray states a specific oil mix for under 100 cc engines.

I test ran this mix in my quadra 52 yesterday. Starting and power did not seem to be affected. I am getting close to completing my new bird and using the ccrc 50. Hope to have results soon.

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(in reply to old git)
       Post #: 329

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/24/2008 4:12:06 PM   
Ravivos


 

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Joined: 8/16/2006
From: Center, ISRAEL
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quote:

ORIGINAL: old git

My engine just arrived and looks complete and in good condition.

I bought new on Flea-bay from a Japanese? address.

**** CLEARING STOCK **** CRRC PRO GF26I 26CC Gas Engine (300238955792)

I think they have more.




I've not run it yet but so far I am very hopeful. On examination I saw signs that it had been mounted. The Manual tells of it having been test run and settings arrived at.

Everything about the motor and packaging looks pristine as does the silencer. I have a non contact tacho on order and will give figures when I eventually run the motor.



old git - - - - aka John L.


Hi John.
I bought the same one
I am very pleased with the packing and quality of the engine, no signs of damage or problem.
my engine had a strong gas smell and it seems it has been run but for a very short time - the plug has only minor signs of operation.
i mounted the engine on a test stand (16X8MA), closed the choke and gave it a go with my starter - the crankshaft was loose and the entire think fell off (spinner+prop+crankshaft+nut).
I tightened the crankshaft pin (needed to insert a cloth or a roop down the plug hole to prevent the engine from rotating) and bolted the spinner and prop back to place.
fired it up easily and let it work at approx 2000rpm with the pre-set needles (didnt tried to adjust them), after about half an hour of running at aprox 2000-3000rpm i tried to open up the throttle, it seems the needles are set to a very(!) rich mixture and the engine didnt spool up currectly and was vibrating like crazy ... topped at a very low rpm.
also, the exhaust was spitting burt oil - another symptom to a very rich mixture.
it seems that the factory setting of the carb will be fine for the initial running, but the needles have to be adjusted (a long way) for a currect operation of the engine.
i didnt tried to adjust the needles because i want to continue with the break-in for atleast two more hours.
will report back with some numbers when ill re-adjust the carb.

all in all, it seems like a very good little engine, high performance (comparing to other low cost brands out there), low fuel consumption and rather nice peripheral accesories set.

(in reply to old git)
       Post #: 330

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/24/2008 4:59:43 PM   
mesaflyer


 

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From: Calimesa, CA, USA
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littlera,
You posted: "Another question: Has anyone had to incorporate a remote vent for the carb diaphragm due to cowl pressure variation from static pressure (either positive or negative pressure - depends on the configuration of the cowl. If so, did you solder to existing hole on diaphragm cover, or drill new hole in center and close original hole at the edge? Did you vent back to inside fuselage or to static port on side of plane? I would be more inclined to go to static source on side of plane, instead of inside plane - you never know if inside plane has static, plus, or minus pressure."

Did you ever get an answer to your questions? I have purchased one of these motors (my first gasser) as well, but it is still in the box. It will be going on a Top Flight Sea Fury, so it will be covered with a cowl. I am 3-4 months away from mounting the motor on the plane, but would like to know the answer to your questions. If you (or anyone) has any info, I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks

(in reply to littlera)
       Post #: 331

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/24/2008 5:03:27 PM   
Jim Dines


 

Posts: 1373
Joined: 2/27/2002
From: Keller, TX, USA
Status: online
My manual says the factory settings are H:1 1/2, L: 1 1/3 turns. These worked very well on mine. I haven't optimized the needles until more break in, but they are good as a starting setting. My idle screw was set at around 3000rpm, however, I was able to get over 8500 rpm with an APC 16X8 on the first tank (and over 9000 rpm on a 16X6 prop). If you are getting a lot of vibration, it might be a good idea to lean it out a bit, as vibration is not a good thing.

(in reply to Ravivos)
       Post #: 332

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/24/2008 10:11:09 PM   
littlera


 

Posts: 49
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Advance, NC, USA
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Mesaflyer,

No, I did not receive a direct post to my questions about the vent, but did some further research and reached some decisions:

(1) I have located other postings where modelers have modified the diaphragm cover by adding a vent tube over the existing vent hole. I believe this is better than trying to drill another hole in the cover, near the center for example. Putting it over the existing hole ensures that the vent tube does not interfere with the movement of the diaphragm or the needle assembly (rivet) in the center of the diaphragm. A brass tube, end shaped with a Dremel tool to fit closely over the vent hole, is silver soldered over the hole pointing out radially. Center line of tube will point to center of cover, and will be in same plane. Don't forget to remove the zinc plating on the cover in the area to be silver soldered. The Dremel with grinding bit will be good for this. You will not have success soldering to zinc plating. Of course remove the cover from the carburetor before grinding or soldering on the cover. Failure to observe this will heat damage the diaphragm and ruin your whole day.

(2) After due consideration, I have decided to create a static port on the side of my plane, aft of the cowling. This will be a flush disk, maybe the size of a dime, with a hole in it of about 1 mm. A brass tube will be soldered over this hole on the back side and I will attach the vent line to this. There is precedence for this from full scale aircraft. which use such static sources and to provide reliable static pressure to air speed indicators and other instrumentation. They are used in this way in combination with pitot tubes (for total or dynamic pressure.)

Second best to this would be to run the vent line into the inside of the fuselage. This PROBABLY is at true static pressure, or very close to it, due to such side vents as pushrod exits, etc. This may not be the case, for example, if a high static pressure (fuel line hole in firewall into cowling area) is feeding the volume inside the fuse faster than it can vent through various leak points. Gaps at the bottom of a windshield can be a source for very high pressure air into the fuselage. It all just depends where openings are located on the fuselage as to their effect on the static pressure inside the plane.

A flying buddy advised me do try the engine without mods before creating the vent scheme, but I don't want to suffer a problem and have to retrofit. It is easier to do it up front for me. Anyway, I am an aerospace engineer and like the thoughts of such a functional relatively scale detail!

Engineers tend to worry about physical things, modes and effects that others of different disciplines are blissfully unaware of. Usually the concerns turn out to be of little or no consequence, but sometimes ...............

(in reply to mesaflyer)
       Post #: 333

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/24/2008 10:58:40 PM   
mesaflyer


 

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From: Calimesa, CA, USA
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littlera,
Thanks for the reply, I think! I see on Brillelli's site that he provides his engines with the static nipple. I believe that I have seen pictures of engines were other people have just JB welded theirs on. I hope JB weld will work, as I only own a soldering gun, and I am not really sure how to solder that little brass pipe (or nipple) on. Very small torch? 25 years ago I did some tig and mig welding, as well as a fair amount of brazing. I can still solder copper water pipes without a problem, but the small detail type stuff is not my area of expertise. I understand exactly what you are saying, just don't have the experience. Maybe I will order an extra carb plate to practice with. I would love to learn, as I always like to try something new.

(in reply to littlera)
       Post #: 334

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/25/2008 1:24:16 AM   
MarvinE255


 

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From: Boynton Beach, FL, USA
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I used a small piece of brass tubing matching the hole in the cover. Cut it on a bevel and tried to match the shape on the cover. Cleaned both part well and used a tooth pick placed through the cover to support the brass tube while I silver soldered the two together. It has lasted through many flights a one crash.

_____________________________

DOC

(in reply to mesaflyer)
       Post #: 335

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/25/2008 4:51:16 AM   
mesaflyer


 

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From: Calimesa, CA, USA
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I have a soldering gun, and have soldered several linkages to control rods without a problem (KOW). But, can you please tell me how and what did you use to apply the heat? Also, I have two rolls of solder. One is a Bernz O Matic silver bearing lead free solder. The other is a Radio Shack silver-bearing solder high-tech rosin core. Can I use either one of these?
Thanks

(in reply to MarvinE255)
       Post #: 336

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/25/2008 12:12:33 PM   
Ravivos


 

Posts: 82
Joined: 8/16/2006
From: Center, ISRAEL
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well, just a little update -
went back to the factory settings (H1.5 L1.5) and started the engine.
after and additional half an hour of running at 2K-3K, i opend up the throttle,
on a 16X8MA, a vibrating test stand (very bad) and a high oil percent in the fuel - i get 8400rpm... that is a very good number, my EVO 26GT2 runs at the same numbers and cost more than double...
the engine idles at a steady 1800rpm without a problem.
i think the mixture is still very rich and there is a need to lean it a bit... this engine will turn a 16X8APC prop at aprox 8800 rpm, great engine.

(in reply to mesaflyer)
       Post #: 337

RE: CRRC PRO GF26I - 7/25/2008 2:07:00 PM   
littlera


 

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Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Advance, NC, USA
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mesaflyer

Either of the solders you mentioned should work. Really, almost any solder will work so far as attaching the tube. Everyone is recommending a silver solder because the resulting joint is much stronger than any led bearing solder can provide. It is important that you remove all of the zinc plating in the area you are soldering, otherwise the steps outlined by MarvinE255 are ideal.

A successful solder joint is made when the joint is brought to the proper temperature. The steel plate here is relatively small and thin, so hopefully a solder gun (large, pistol type) can work. A small, 10 - 15 watt pencil type probably wont. When I do mine, I will definitely use my Bernz-O-Matic torch. If you don't have one, you can pick up at the big box stores (H. Depot) for less than $10.

I always keep solder flux (Kester brand or equival