rcplaneworld
Posts: 12
Joined: 6/17/2006
From: Kissimmee, FL, USA
Status: offline
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I have about 30 planes in my hanger and I have been flying for over 30 years. I have come to the realization that more power is better. You do not have to fly at full throttle all of the time. I would put a nice 45, 46 50 or 51 engine on the plane. I am disappointed in the new OS engines, the remote needle valves are touchy, and the LA series is sleeved and works better as a paper weight. I do have an AX 46 that is reliable and fast, about 5 clicks and you’re out of tune big time. The Super Tiger, Thunder Tiger, are economical and just as fast and reliable.
4 strokes cost way too much, yet I own Saitos, YS and Magnums, and you think well I will save fuel and recoup the costs.... 4 strokes burn about 1/3 the amount per flight compared to 2 strokes. Check on the cost of 25% nitro fuel, yes you can use 15% but the 4 strokes idle more reliable and at a lower RPM with the higher nitro content. Now figure your weekly fuels cost double when you go to the higher nitro content.
I also fly, Rossi, Dub Jett, Webra, Neson, Norvel and some old Como engines. All of these engines have their own merits.
Always make sure your engines bolts are tight including the mount and prop, yes your new engine may have loose bolts from the factory. Make sure the carb is seated all of the way down on the O-RING. Your engine should die when you put your finger over the carb intake at idle. If not you have an air leak. Many pilots do not understand that there is a low idle adjustment on the arm side of the carb. Set your engines needle valve rich then start it. At full throttle pinch the fuel line and let go, it should pick up RPM, if not your too lean, if there is a large swing in RPM turn the needle valve in a few clicks (3 to 5) and try it again, you should have a minimum of 400 rpm increase if your new at this, richer is better for new engines (higher swing in RPM).
Now bring the engine down to idle, most engines at this point have a problem, the factory sets them too rich. Let the engine idle and listen to it, if it starts to sputter and or drop rpms the longer it idles then the rich engine is loading up on fuel. It builds up in the crank housing until the engine has trouble pushing the fuel around the crank. Try turning the low idle screw in 1/8th of a turn at a time, this screw is located on the arm side, mainly located inside the arm pivot of the carb; some carbs have a second needle valve instead of a screw head. Now restart the engine and bring it up to full throttle to clear the engine of access fuel. Now back to idle, and repeat until it will idle on its own for at least 3 to 4 minutes. Now quickly go to full throttle from idle. If the engine goes "RAP" and dies then it could be too lean at low idle, if it slowly picks up RPM or sputters it has built up fuel as it is still too rich. If it transitions quickly and runs smoothly then you’re done. Otherwise again 1/8 turn in to lean it out a little, 1/8th turn out to go richer, repeat full throttle then idle for a few minutes and test again by going quickly to full throttle.... you get the idea. If you don’t idle for a few minutes you don’t give the engine a chance to load up. Examples of this in real life is sitting by the runway waiting to taxi or building up your nerve take off!!!
Tuned pipes are prone to this, ever watch them run them up to full throttle and taxi quickly out? That’s why.......
As to the EVO engines, same rules apply, but they have mechanical limits installed to keep novices from ruining the engine by running it too lean. After you are done playing around with your EVO and want a reliable strong motor to get your inexperienced flying out of trouble? Then pull the prop and go to a 10x6 2 blade and spinner. Next pull the stop pins from the low and high idle screw and needle valve, also take the nut and bolt out of the length of the muffler and pull the baffle out of the middle of it and throw it away. Make sure you use lock tite when you screw the muffler back together, the rear part of the muffler has threads in the casting, put the bolt in tight first, and then put the lock nut on last, kind of a cheap double nut type design even though you only have 1 nut.
Re tune the engine per the above instructions, and be totally amazed how well the EVO runs now smooth, fast, and no more dead stick landings.
LASTLY!!! It is so much easier to land if your engine will idle at a LOW RPM and not die. Follow these instructions and dead stick lands will only happen from running out of fuel as your will enjoy flying so much more that you might stay up too long and run out of fuel.
< Message edited by rcplaneworld -- 3/18/2007 4:20:24 PM >
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Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> NitroModels Support >> Pole Cat 50 - 51" ARF 
Pole Cat 50 - 51" ARF - 
I bought one of these, but mine was the previous one that is all red and looks almost identical. The model is assembled in a cost efficient manner. Directions have no writing (only pictures) which makes it almost impossable for inexperienced modelers. Dont follow the tail wheel directions, I would toss the included tail wheel. I was just taken by a crook from Nevada on a OS 46 AX that I was going to put in mine, went by the user name RENOHELIPRO. Ordered the OS 46 AX from 
