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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD >> RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build
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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/6/2007 1:12:38 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
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Nice Sweet Stick sscherin. What's the paint finish? Do I also detect some dihedral in the wing? My sweet stick had a flat wing. I do see a few other modifications. Did you also add dihedral to the wing?

Didnt think about the blue tape vintageflyer. Doping it worked for the cut. It made a real nice cut but when I doped the covering on was when it would string. Your method sounds like it would take care of that problem. Someone also mentioned cutting with pinking shears. Maybe next time I'll try pinking shears and blue tape together.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/6/2007 1:39:08 PM   
skylarkmk1



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Redwulf,

The pinking shears may cause you to have many little bits of Koveral instead of a long string. Suggest trying the shears and tape on some scrap before committing to the plane. I almost always have little threads coming from the pinked points when doing rib stitching. Good luck.

< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 11/7/2007 11:01:50 PM >


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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/7/2007 8:53:38 PM   
Sir Crashalot



Posts: 145
Joined: 6/24/2007
From: , FL, USA
Status: online
Sean
I read through the whole thread, and I don’t think you have said how your Dus has balanced out with your HB .40 PDP. (Nose heavy?) Also, I went to the MECOA site that you posted a link to, and read the specs for that engine. It list the practical rpm’s as 1,800 to 19,000. WOW! That engine is a screamer! (I do believe you mentioned you were using 1/4 inch bolts, tapped into a ½ inch steel plate firewall. Now I know why. ) That's gonna pull that stik around with no problems! Do they still make HB's anymore?
Thanks
Bob J.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/8/2007 1:13:47 AM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
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Hey Bob,
I don't know if they still make the HB or not. I think they do but haven't located them. They were German made I think.

I did an early test balance and it was a tad nose heavy. I figured it would be just about perfect when finished.

Since it's really a .40 but physically it's very close to a .60 I was expecting to find it "tail heavy". I was surprised to see it was nose heavy. I'm thinking by the time I finish out paint and all it's going to be about right. I had this thing on my Sweet Stick and had to put the battery pack just behind the servo tray and behind the last bulkhead in the radio compartment to get it to balance. I'm guessing no trouble with the DUS. Or should I say "hoping" no trouble. It sure did pull my Sweet Stick around well! I hope no trouble with DUS. What size prop would you recommend????

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/8/2007 4:15:56 PM   
Sir Crashalot



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Joined: 6/24/2007
From: , FL, USA
Status: online
Sean
I use a 10x7 prop on my Super Tigre .40, But it’s about 3,000 rpm off the top of your HB. I have no experience with engines that rev that high. I don’t know want the difference would be. As far as what the ideal prop would be. There are a lot of RC’ers out there with more experience than myself. Maybe they could chime in and help out. If not, you might have to do some test trials to see what works best. Sorry I couldn’t help. Good luck, and keep up the good work.
Bob J.

P.S. If you want, you can just mail me the HB. That way you won't have to worry about props. Buy yourself a nice new OS or something. Just trying to help!

< Message edited by Sir Crashalot -- 11/8/2007 4:20:54 PM >


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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/8/2007 5:30:05 PM   
Birman


 

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From: Racine, WI, USA
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They don't seem to make the HB .40 anymore but they do still make to HB .61 at a price of $169.99

http://www.mecoa.com/prices.htm#mecprice

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/9/2007 3:43:45 PM   
Redwulf__34



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Hey Bob,
I actually ran a 10X7 on my sweet stick. It was probably the wrong prop! I'll seek some wise advice when I get to that stage. It probably needs to be an 11X7 or so.

With the HB engines it's the PDP that makes it run on steriods. I checked the link Birman put up. They show the 61 and 61 PDP. PDP stood for Perry Directional Porting. It was like feeding the things MLB grade steroids!!!!!!

Sean

< Message edited by Redwulf__34 -- 11/11/2007 12:53:26 PM >

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/13/2007 11:19:03 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
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Will be painting soon. I got my paint from Warbird Colors. Blue, Red, White, and Black. The blue is a real nice shade. I can't waite to see it.

I know I've never painted properly before. I assume I should start with the light color first? Normally I would pant the base color of Blue all over. Probably I would not paint the tail section. Then I would tape off the tail section and paint it red. Then tape off the white areas on the wings and fuselage paint those, then tape off the crosses. Is that the right way to go about it or should I paint the white areas tape those off and then paint the blue around them?????

If you haven't seen the color scheme go back to post #194. I made a crude photoshop. I'd appreciate any advice!

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/14/2007 3:05:48 AM   
skylarkmk1



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Redwulf,

What color primer are you using? A dark primer will often dull down colors while a light primer can tend to brighten the colors. You are correct, normal painting has the light colors are applied first, masked off, and then the darker colors are applied. Your idea of masking the tail off and painting it separately is good.

Painting the blue first and then painting the white is not a good idea. The blue will show thru the white, requiring more coats of white to cover (more weight).

My suggestion is to (after prep);
1 - Apply a light (white or light grey) colored primer over the whole plane. Check for pin holes, fill if needed and re-check.
2 - Apply white just larger than the areas needed (wing squares, fuselage squares, on the rudder to outline the cross and the red/blue separation line of the fuse).
3 - Mask the white wing/fuse squares and the tail section and paint the blue.
4 - Remove the tail mask and mask the fuselage and cross outline area on rudder and paint the tail red.
5 - Remove the white mask on the wing, fuse and rudder and re-mask for the cross.
6 - Paint the crosses.
7 - If desired, give the whole plane a coat of clear.


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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/14/2007 8:11:05 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
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Thanks for the advice Skylarkmk1. That is very helpful for me. I'm using a grey primer. Dupli Color High Build. Would you tape off the white areas or just paint the area and let it "feather" out? I've always had problems with tape lines. Probably painting too heavy.

Every paint scheme I have ever done was a light base and darker trim. This is sort of a first for me, to have the darker base colors. I'll follow your steps. What kind of clear do you recommend over Warbird Colors? Have you used them before?

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/14/2007 9:08:41 PM   
skylarkmk1



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Sean,

I haven’t messed with the Warbird Colors (I use dope most of the time) and I would use their clear if they have one (the site is a pain to navigate on dial up). Follow their directions (go back and re-read them) on making sure any wood areas to be painted are sealed from moisture.

If they don’t have a clear (they should), I would use another water based polyurethane clear coat (no, I don’t have a suggestion on what brand). DO A TEST on a separate (non-plane) scrap to test compatibility.

Preferably, I would spray the white areas just a little larger than the final size and feather the edges with the spray gun. If the grey primer is dark grey, then maybe give the whole plane a THIN coat (or 2) of white primer, just enough to cover the dark grey. Light grey primer should not need an over coat of white.

Rule of thumb, a few thin coats are better than 1 heavy coat. Build you paint depth (color) in layers of thin paint, don’t rush it. And always TEST on scrap.

You may want to do a search on using polyurethane paints here on RCU or over on RC Scalebuilder for more info.


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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/15/2007 1:12:09 AM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
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Thanks Skylark,
They do have a clear. I thought maybe you had used them before and knew of something else. I consider my primer a light grey. It's not real real light. Probably lighter than dark. There are some pictures of the primed wing back a few posts.

I was planning to get some work done tonite. But man, I get home from work with all the best intentions, but by the time I eat dinner and get some time with the boys, the energy is GONE!!!!

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 11/17/2007 3:53:03 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
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Skylark,
I don't know if your familiar with Dupli Color primers or not. Things are coming out better than expected so far! I've had a thought. I'm using the High Build sandable that is surely going to add more weight than regular primer. It's doing a great job making my seams completely invisible. My thought is to sand just about all of this off leaving only the buildup over the seams and low spots then come back over with the Primer Sealer just before painting. The high build sands very very easy. Is that a crazy idea? Should I just use the High Build as I doing right now, which is sanding it nearly down all the way leaving the low spots built up then hitting it with a second coat and sanding it down almost to the surface and then painting right over that?????

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