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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/12/2007 8:38:09 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

Posts: 1201
Joined: 11/30/2003
From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Mine showed the fin as solid 1/4, as well, but I was out of it so I used the built up method. I've had enough solid surfaces warp on me that I've about given up on them. Seems to work ok for rudders and elevators, but even large, solid stock ailerons and flaps can be problem.

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Bob Hunt

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/14/2007 2:01:53 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Bob,
How did you put your wing together? I have seen a couple of different methods suggested but I can see potential issues with them all. The original Jensen said to "block" up the trailing edge and glue the ribs into the lower spar and trailing edge at the same time. The other method I have seen suggested (not from Jensen) is to glue the ribs into the trailing edge laying flat, then glue in the top spar, flip it over and glue in the lower spar.

It seems to met he best method would be Jensen's, blocking up the trailing edge and glue them into the lower spar and trailing edge at the same time. It would be easier to make sure the blocking is straight.

Thoughts?
Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/14/2007 2:15:52 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

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Status: offline 		Sean:

That blocking up of the trailing edge takes place only at the very tip- the top and bottom trailing edge sheeting "taper" to match the wing tip piece. Everything else is flat on the table up to and including the last rib. I would wait until the tip piece is glued on before bending the top and bottom sheeting to match. (Actually, I didn't do it that way. I ended the trailing edge sheeting at the last rib and just used a thicker tip piece. )

< Message edited by Mustang Fever -- 3/14/2007 2:18:38 PM >

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Bob Hunt

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/14/2007 5:44:19 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I'm not sure I'm totally following you Bob. I'll check closer tonite to see but I was pretty sure they show blocking up the entire trailing edge. If I understand you correctly are you saying the rib should fit over the lower spar and sit down on the trailing edge sheeting as is? The angle of the cut out for my lower spar is such that it brings the trailing edge up off the table. I may have to scan or take some pics to explain it correctly..

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/15/2007 9:18:40 PM   
Redwulf__34



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Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I didn't look close enough. Your were right it was blocking up the tip. I think I find an alteranative method there as well. Hopefully time will allow me to start putting the wing together tonite. Did you use spruce for the secondary (frontal) spar too?

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/15/2007 9:51:17 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

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From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Sean:

For a while there I was beginning to wonder if the Jensen plans were different. Sounds like they are the same.

I used balsa for the front spar. (3/16 sq?) Can't remember.



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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/15/2007 11:01:10 PM   
8178



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Joined: 5/25/2004
From: _ , USA
Status: offline 		I’ve built a bunch of Jensen kits and I think there maybe some confusion here. The wing rib is flat from the back edge of the rib notch all the way to the trailing edge cut out. Each wing panel is built by laying the ribs down on the flat area. The block shown on the plans is used to twist the trailing edge at the last rib so it will line up with the wing tip piece. You can do that part after the wing is completely built. Again I highly recommend you build in a small amount of dihedral to avoid the goofy drooped wing look.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/15/2007 11:25:52 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

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Status: offline 		That's what we said, only different. The section "C-C" on the wing plan shows it pretty clearly.

My wing's flat and it don't look droopy, and it flies so much better than it did with the first, dihedraled wing.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/15/2007 11:58:27 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 450
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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks 8178, I do see it exactly the same as you described. I looked at it too quickly and didnt see it all.
Gonna start putting her together tonite. Bob, I was planning on balsa on the secondary frontal spars. I thought I better make sure.

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/19/2007 3:50:47 AM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 450
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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Wow, lots of work today! The spar notches on my rib jig were not right. I thought about correcting it but figured I would just hand notch them. That was a mistake! It took way too long. But they are right. Got it all layed up and she is nice and straight. I have to trim down the center ribs 1/16 for the sheeting yet then I can glue it all up.

I don't know why my spar notches were off on the jig. I had actually spot glued the two sides together when I made them. For some reason when I stacked all the ribs between them and bolted them together they were not lined up square across from each other. They were just a tad undersized and I could have set up my router table with a 1/4 bit and fixed it right up with the ribs in place. But my router table was buried under a ton of balsa. On hind site it would have been easier to dig it out!

I'll get some pictures up when I get the wing all glued up.

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/22/2007 2:21:00 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey guys,
I got the wing all glued up now. Last night I got the top spar, and frontal secondary spars in. I'll get the leading edge in tonite. I have a few pics here before I glued in the upper spars.


I made a slight change to the trailing edge. I got some trailing edge stock and I'm using it for a solid trailing edge. I descreased the thickness of the trailing edge sheeting to 1/16" while doing this. One question, my trailing edge stock isnt' going to be "deep" enough for the wing bolt location. I am assuming filling the section with solid balsa is good? It doesnt need to be hardwood in between the sheeting, does it?

Sean




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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/22/2007 3:51:10 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

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From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Sean:

Lookin real nice. Good call on the TE. You won't regret it. I found I was able to get the LE stub ribs in after all the spars and the LE piece were in place. Don't forget em. I nearly did, had some covering ironed down before I realized it.

Block balsa "between the sheets" will be fine for wing bolts. Just glue it in before the top TE sheet goes on, a little higher than what you need, and sand it flush with the tops of the center section ribs. One thing I do with wing bolts is to counterbore down into the block a with a 5/8 Forstner bit, then glue in a 1/16 or 1/8 ply reinforcing washer so the bolt doesn't crush the balsa every time it's tightened.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/22/2007 8:22:44 PM   
Redwulf__34



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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Bob,
I'm thinking of gluing in those LE stub ribs before the LE. I figured it could be done later but it would probably take a little extra work.

How much do you guys use CA type glue and how much do you use regular wood glue? I'm finding most of my fits are pretty tight and I'm using thin CA for most everything. I'm asuming it holds as well if not better.........Hope I am not making a bad assumption!

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 3/23/2007 2:43:20 AM   
Mustang Fever


 

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Status: offline 		Sean:

The thin CA will work well on balsa to balsa with a tight fit. However, I have developed the habit, after building several SIG kits, of going over each joint several times until the CA starts to build up on the surface. It's either that, or I'll use the thick stuff (with kicker) to form a fillet at every joint. Glue is very light compared to everything else we put in the airplanes. The trick is to make sure every piece is bonded to every other piece. SIG stresses this in their instructions and it sorta took.



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