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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD >> RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build
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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/16/2008 6:07:37 AM   
starcad



Posts: 228
Joined: 12/8/2001
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Sean, just a suggestion. You could route the nose gear control rod out through the bottom of the tank area and thus eliminate the tank problem. I used to do this many years ago as I didn't want to have the fuss with removing the tank every time I wanted to adjust the nose gear. I could never get those dawg gone steering arms tight enough even with a flat.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/16/2008 1:41:08 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Glad to see you "Sticking" again Bob!!!!!! Good to have you back in the fold!!!!!!!!!!

Thought about that Starcad. I really don't wanna plug more holes etc. I've already got the nose wheel mounted inside etc. I think I can get it low enough with a little work.

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/16/2008 11:50:14 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

Posts: 1419
Joined: 11/30/2003
From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks, Sean.

Did the balancing and battery installation today. With that .91 FX up front, she was real nose heavy, and that after I shoved the engine right up against the back of the mount.

It took 2 each 600 mAh 4.8V Rx batteries and 4 each 230 grain round nose, .45 ACP TMJ bullets (8.7 ounces) right below the LE of the fin to get the balance to just forward of the maximum aft recommendation. (4.5 inches, about 29% of MAC) The batteries had to be stood on edge, so I made a somewhat aerodynamic cover to hide and protect them. I wanted to get near the aft CG limit on this one, as I balanced the previous bird near the forward point, and it made some stuff not so fun, like flying inverted, and it absolutely would not spin.

The pumped 91 with a 15x6 MAS Scimitar prop is too awesome to believe. With 10% fuel at 1200 feet above sea level, it spins at just over 10,000rpm. There is so much vertical thrust that the airplane would be gone in a heartbeat if I let go of it. The upline on this one will be something to see.

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< Message edited by Mustang Fever -- 9/16/2008 11:56:12 PM >

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/20/2008 12:29:21 AM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Howdy Guys,
I have a picture here showing my current tank location. I understand where it's supposed to be if the engine is upright. With the spray bar and I know where the spray bar is. However I'm still a bit confused on if the engine is sideways. The top of this yellow line indicates center of my fuel tank. It's a fat line so it is the top of the line not the bottom. Is this close enough? Do I need to consider moving it lower? I think it's ok where it's at. Am I right?

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/20/2008 1:17:47 AM   
Mustang Fever


 

Posts: 1419
Joined: 11/30/2003
From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Sean:

That looks good to me.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/20/2008 9:22:15 AM   
flying pastor


 

Posts: 57
Joined: 10/30/2007
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Sean.
That should be good. The ideal is, I believe, to have the centre line of the tank on the centre line of the crankcase, (and therefore also the spraybar). You may find that you need to set the engine a bit rich to start the flight and it will lean out a little during flight.You should have plenty of power available.
There is an old saying that is something like this...........Rich mixture = slow flight
Lean mixture = no flight.
All the best,
Chris.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/20/2008 9:57:15 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Howdy Guys,
I went ahead and moved the tank down. She should be much better now. I've got the nose gear rods low enough I can move the tank lower than I actually will need. I will set it up on the center line like you said Chris. That's where I felt it should be anyways. I will fly her upside down as much as upside right.

Do you guys have any comments on the best type/brand of fuel tank? I really wanted a Hayes but they don't make a 12oz. They make 11 and 13. I hate to go as small as 11 and I hate to go as big as 13. I have a Sullivan slant but it really needs to come out square to go into the firewall correctly. I don't like having to bend those brass tubes on the sullivans anyway. I see Dubro has brass tubes as well.

I've always used Kraft tanks which are identical to the Hayes. I always liked them and never had trouble. I guess with the sullivan or Dubro tanks if the tubes come out straight from the front they dont' need much bending. However you have to bend the pressure tube.

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/21/2008 1:51:58 AM   
Mustang Fever


 

Posts: 1419
Joined: 11/30/2003
From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Sean:

Hayes makes a 12oz. I just put one in my Mustang.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK835&P=ML

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/21/2008 2:07:03 AM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Saw that one Bob. I'm afraid it's too long though. I'll check it again tomorrow. It's over 6-1/8" in length and I think I calculated I couldn't go any more than 5-3/4".

How much flytime you think I can get on 11 oz? I usually don't care to fly much longer than 10-15 minutes.

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/21/2008 2:32:05 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

Posts: 1419
Joined: 11/30/2003
From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		With a 60, 10 oz will give you 15-20 minutes as long as you're not constantly at full throttle.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/21/2008 7:59:23 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I tend to fly her pretty much wide open most of the time. I may go for the 11 oz and see how she goes. I could change my flying style a bit too. If i can get 10 minutes of flying time that's enough. I dont' like to fly much longer than that at one time anyways.

Sean

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/21/2008 9:17:25 PM   
skylarkmk1



Posts: 1257
Joined: 9/25/2004
From: Festus, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Sean,

Get a stop watch and time a full throttle flight until dead stick (stay high enough to glide to a landing), that will be the minimun amount of time on a full tank. Throttle management can help extend a fuel supply quite a bit. Fly at 50%-75% power for straight and level, power up to climb into a loop and at the top, throttle way back and let the prop slow you down on the down side. Same thing with hammer heads, tail slides etc. power up entering, throttle back near the top (maybe a blip of power to get it to turn) and power off on the down side. Do the same for other climbing manouvers, full power to climb, cruise power to get from point A to B and reduced power (near idle) on down lines or to land. You may find you can get up to 50% more flight time and you manouvers will look better, it just takes practice.

< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 9/21/2008 9:18:14 PM >

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 9/23/2008 6:22:07 AM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Howdy Skylark!
Good to hear from you again! I do use throttle in manuevers but it's point A to B that I tend to fly full throttle. You've got some good advice there for me. I'll have to learn to work it a little more. I definately can do better at flying slower before the manuevers. Flying at 50% or 75% and powering up before the maneuver is good advice. I'll work at that a bit more. I'm an old recycled pattern guy that feels like I need to get around too quick!!!!!!!! This .60 is going to be more than enough engine. The .40 was enough when she was running well.

I think I put the 11 oz tank in and fly her for 8 minutes and then pop the hatch to see how much fuel is left. I've had number of "unplanned" deadsticks already. I would rather avoid intentional or unintentional ones!!!! If you know what I mean!

This engine I got is an older engine. I need to run some fuel with castor in it. The manual calls for 5% nitro. That seems a bit low. I'm debating on 5% or 10%. I don't know why I'm second guessing the manual. I guess 5% just doesnt' seem like much. You guys think 5% is enough for an older engine? She is a .60 FP

Sean

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