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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/24/2007 5:48:02 AM   
CptDan


 

Posts: 14
Joined: 4/18/2006
From: Carmichael, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Well I just got my stik short kit from Laser-works and it looks very nice. Unfortunately for me my better half needa another house (bigger) so we sold my home of 28 years and we are moving across town. More room=More planes. But I have to move my machine shop lathe mill saws drill press and have resetup everything so I don't expect to get to it till late in the summer.

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       Post #: 101

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/24/2007 8:45:30 PM   
carlosponti



Posts: 1132
Joined: 5/14/2003
From: Moore, OK, USA
Status: offline 		got my jenson up and flying for the first time this season. i remember why i wanted one that thing is so smooth.

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       Post #: 102

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/26/2007 10:01:55 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Cptdan, I would just like to have all the tools you have to move!!

Well, I got a good bit of work done this morning. I got the dowels drilled into the wing. I got the rear "hatchstop" glued in place and the hatch part way cut out. I'm modifying the hatch a bit. I wonder how you did yours bob? I also got one aileron complete and ready to hinge. I've decided just to remake the one that warped bad. I have plenty of 1/4" balsa left over for some reason. It will probably be less work to remake it than to try and straighten it. Tomorrow I'll hopefully get the wing bolts in then I can make some real headway. It seems all the little things are done for a while and now I'm on the things that go off in big chunks!

I'll try to post up some pictures later this weekend.

Sean

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       Post #: 103

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/26/2007 10:14:25 PM   
Mustang Fever


 

Posts: 1419
Joined: 11/30/2003
From: Cadillac, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Sean:

I can't remember if the plans said to do it this way or not, but here it is:


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Bob Hunt

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       Post #: 104

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/26/2007 11:50:39 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Bob, That's more or less the way the plans show. I'm going to bolt mine on. I'm using 3/16" balsa with 1/16" hardwood underneath to make it 1/4" total. I'll mortise the screws into the balsa. I'll try to get some shots of it when I'm complete with it.

Dave, (Aerosport) how old is your son in the pictures? He looks about the same as mine. I have a 2 and 5 year old. And by the way, the plane looked good.......in both pics.....

Sean

(in reply to aerospot)
       Post #: 105

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/27/2007 2:16:39 PM   
aerospot


 

Posts: 102
Joined: 10/12/2005
From: Lake City, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Actually he's my grandson, Alex. He was about 7 in that pic. He still flies with me on occasion but somewhat lost interest once he soloed...

Here's last years build with the granddaughter. It too now needs replaced... I'm hard on ugly sticks!

I'm using the remains of a .40 stick wing that had been built with dihedral.
I'm inverting the fuse to make it a low-wing stick. I just couldnt throw away a perfectly good wing!

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       Post #: 106

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/27/2007 4:54:07 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Cool idea. You can do just about anything you want to the Ugly Stick design and it will still fly and fly well!

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       Post #: 107

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/27/2007 7:49:05 PM   
Ilikebipes



Posts: 445
Joined: 8/7/2003
From: Columbia Heights, MN, USA
Status: offline 		I've recently purchased the RCM plans for the Das Ugly Stick. It show dihedral bracing, but no center sheeting. I can't remember how my GP Big Stick built over 10 years ago. Do I need to sheet the center section and glass it, or can I leave it stock, without the center sheeting?

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       Post #: 108

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/27/2007 8:44:04 PM   
skylarkmk1



Posts: 1257
Joined: 9/25/2004
From: Festus, MO, USA
Status: offline 		ILB,

Leave it stock. I am building 2 RCM DUSs with the wing flat, no dihedral, using full length spars (ripped from clear white pine) and the spruce joiners (spar doublers) as shown. I will not be adding any sheeting or glass to #1. I will add some sheeting to #2 because I am modifying it a bit, but no glass, I feel the contruction is strong enough. I am also covering the wings with Koveral and dope, similar to the original (going for that nostalgic '60s look on #1). I will rubberband the wing on #1 and bolt on the wing on #2. My Hanger 9 Ultra Stick ARF has a sheeted center section with cap strips on the ribs, is covered in transparent UltraCote and has a bolted on wing. The plans do not require any glass on the center section joint, just plenty of epoxy during assembly.

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John F Howard (aka skylarkmk1)
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       Post #: 109

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/27/2007 9:31:26 PM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey skylark, I'm leaning toward Koveral too. Ive never used it before but I've heard it's pretty easy compared to the old silk and dope. I've only got experience with Silk and Fiberglassing. The way I understand Koveral is you dope it on and then use heat to shrink it up. Instead of like silk where you stretch it when you apply it and then it shrinks as it dries. How much heat does it take to stretch Koverall and do you stretch it on all the surfaces? Including the solid surfaces like the fuselage etc.?

I've got my wing dowels in and drilled into F2. I just need to install the hardwood for the wing bolts and drill and tap those. Does it matter much on the type of hardwood for the wingbolts? Ive got some cherry, oak, poplar etc. I'm thinking of using some poplar. Ive got a good bit of that in pieces that is about perfect in thickness.

Sean

(in reply to skylarkmk1)
       Post #: 110

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/27/2007 11:06:41 PM   
skylarkmk1



Posts: 1257
Joined: 9/25/2004
From: Festus, MO, USA
Status: offline 		Redwulf,

Take a look at "stickbuilders" method, page 5, post 122 on the WACO YMF thread in Vintage and Antique. On the wings I will probbably go with a couple of coats of Nitrate Dope and then Butyrate Dope for color, similar to the full scale method (I am learning by doing on a full scale plane) since I still use glow engines. The Koveral is put on with Stick-it or other covering "glue" or nitrate dope, smooth and snug with the wrinkles pulled out, it is not stretched. After it has dryed, the covering iron or clothes iron is used to "shrink it" tight.

The fuse of my DUS will probably be "glassed" with acrylic and glass, then doped (to match colors). In the past, I have used "AeroGloss" dope (hard to find) and Hobby Poxy (a pain for me). If it was a gas powered, I would deffinatly go with latex (cheap) with polyurathane covercoat. Leaning more towards dope at this point, but latex would be my next choice.

I have used both maple and plywood for my bolt blocks. Drill, Tap, apply CA to threads, let dry completly and Re-tap, haven't had any problems or failures. The popular should be ok with CA in the threads or you could put blind nuts on the bottom side

< Message edited by skylarkmk1 -- 5/27/2007 11:08:21 PM >

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/27/2007 11:08:21 PM   
Ilikebipes



Posts: 445
Joined: 8/7/2003
From: Columbia Heights, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Cool. I've really gotten proficient with plastic coverings, so I think I'll be using those.

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RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/28/2007 2:14:42 AM   
Redwulf__34



Posts: 471
Joined: 8/29/2006
From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Skylark. His painting process is similar to the methods I've done before. I've always used automotive paint as well. I was not planning on going though all that on the DUS.

Any particular reason your not going to use Koverall on the fuselage?

Sean

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       Post #: 113

RE: Jensen Ugly Stick Build - 5/28/2007 2:43:21 AM