wood props (Full Version)

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burgster -> wood props (2/28/2007 11:13:15 PM)

What blanks do guys use to make wood props. Do they modify an existing prop or carve one from a solid chunk????? I have some terry prather f-1 props, can those be used for q-40. want to make some of my own props just for ****s and giggles, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff



DHG -> RE: wood props (2/28/2007 11:54:06 PM)

Jeff,

The Terry Prather F1 props could work well, at least for giggles as you say. The best blanks I've found are the Rev-up 8-3/4" x 6-3/4". Keep the length between 7-1/4" and 7-1/2", pitch at the tip between 7-1/4" and 8-1/4". Don't thin them too much, balance carefully, wear polycarbonate glasses, etc.

Mr. Raider of the Lost Art



burgster -> RE: wood props (3/1/2007 4:26:13 AM)

Thanks for the help!

Jeff



iamtom -> RE: wood props (3/1/2007 11:42:01 PM)

The following is from Craig Grunkemeyer regarding wood props and blanks;

"The Zinger 8x7 stock #204. The pitch is about 95% as we run on our props.
Last year at Phoenix I turned a 1:01 with one of the Zingers. (Old Motor)
Hub is a little thinner than I like (.410) never had a problem with the old motors at 24,000+."
CG
There was also an article written back in 98 to 99 by Vern Smith. He put to paper how to carve props as suggested by Grunk after he set the record. Our props have changed very little over the years. They still work very well and we had no issues at Phoenix last week . Each of us ran the one prop the entire contest. Between the two us we have had the QM-40 record for the past decade. They work well but do take a little effort. I spent some time talking to Bill Vargas about prop making and his efforts paid off as he saw his personal best time with wood. But then he left us.
Tom



Bill Vargas -> RE: wood props (3/2/2007 1:49:53 AM)

Hi Tom, nope,,, I didn t really leave, I just took a time out right after I lost my last Q40 with my best wood prop,,, HEE!

I still have all my notes about the time we chatted about them,,, even made a few more just for the PHX Race,,, But then heard about the new engine a few days before and coupled along with not being able to get the time off from work,,, things just didn t go my way. Even if I did get the time off, I probably wouldn t have gone because for me it was just to short notice on those new engines to try and get it dialed up.

So until I hear some good news again about the LS and props,,, I can wait for Dave and Fred.

I'd try some wood but not really sure on what measurements to use or go by???


BV



iamtom -> RE: wood props (3/2/2007 3:25:53 AM)

Bill,
I was hoping you would chime in. Your notes are still good. Keep workin it! As always, alittle tweek here and there.
Tom



burgster -> RE: wood props (3/3/2007 6:06:59 PM)

Thanks Tom! I will be racing the CAPS races this year. I will try making some and maybe you will be able to tell me what I did wrong and give me some pionters, if and when I see you at the races.
Thanks,
Jeff Burg



iamtom -> RE: wood props (3/3/2007 7:38:20 PM)

I'll be there Jeff.Happy yo help.
Tom



Tony Pacini -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 4:45:50 AM)

How much lighter (pitch-wise) do wood props have to be for the LS? What is target ground RPM?



iamtom -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 2:00:58 PM)

As mentioned before, our woody's have changed little over the years. So with that said, we still use a progressive pitch configuration with pitch angle at station 7 set at 8 to 8 1/4. Rpm's in the same range as the plastic props. Around 25,500 on the pinch. I can only speak of our experiance at the Phoenix race. I'm sure there is more to learn about with the props and the LS . I won't say it dosen't take a bit if skill in crafting these props but with some trial and error it can be rewarding. It is worth it , We buy planes painted in the mold, engines that run well out of ther box raidio's that work flawlessly and it takes little effort to prepare a racer these racers. The only other things that can make a difference is practice and prop choice. With plastic props your choices are limited but you can race with the same $10 prop everyone else has. Practice is a biggie. So if you can get to the top and want to have an edge of any sort these 2 components can make the difference. Draw your own conclusions.
Tom



daven -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 3:59:20 PM)

Tom,

What kind of tools would you recommend for working on props. I have some extra time right now, without a workshop, and it may be kinda fun working on some woodies to play with this summer. I have some blanks that I got from Darrol, a pitch gauge, Darrols prop template for the tips, and a tool to let me know that both blade lengths are the same. What I'm really interested in are the carving/sanding tools that are used, and any info on how to get started?

IF you want to take this offline, feel free to email me at quickee500@yahoo.com, or give me a call.

Thanks,



Bill Vargas -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 5:59:40 PM)

One of the best ways I found to make a wood prop was to copy a black prop. Then make your own adjustments and tweeks on others to get 23.5K RPM with the older engines. Besure to keep notes so you can duplicate it.

BV



daven -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 6:35:48 PM)

What kind of carving tools / sanding blocks are you using Bill?



Ed Smith -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 8:15:00 PM)

quote:

What kind of tools would you recommend for working on props.


Prop Molds.

I wish I could use them,

Ed S



iamtom -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 11:07:10 PM)

Some hobby shops sell 2"wide rolls of yellow sandpaper with an adhesive back 80 and 120 grit. Cut a few 4 to 6 inch strips of 3/32 or 1/8th 5 ply plywood 1/2 " wide and apply to both sides. Do the coarse work with the 80 grit and rough finish with the 120. this is mostly on the front surface, the airfoil side.Use a single edge rasor blade or an x-acto knife to establish the pitch angle on the back side. If you use the Zinger or other blanks you may not have to do much with the back side. Finish sand with 220. Soak each blade in C/A thin glue a couple of times sanding with 400 between applications and after final sand with 600 polish with Mothers metal polish which will polish the blade and leave a coating of wax. Make sure to balance befor you apply the C/A and dbl. check after finish is complete. If you don't have the yellow paper just use dbl. face tape and your favorite sandpaper.
Good luck,
Tom and Grunk



iamtom -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 11:13:26 PM)

Ed,
You could use your prop molds. Your props would work very well for run up props and for very safe break-in props. If you cut the prop to peak the old engine to say 27K rpm maybe 28K on the LS you can reliably check your motors from motor to motor or race to race. These props being made of continuous carbon fiber they are very durable and safer than the APC plasti, good to well over 32K rpm. These would not be flying props.
Good luck,
Tom



Bill Vargas -> RE: wood props (3/4/2007 11:51:46 PM)

Dave, Tom covered it for you[:D]

What I like to do for that last little tweek for pitch is to use a good heat gun before I apply the coats of CA,,, thanks to Mike Del Ponte for showing me that tip[sm=shades_smile.gif]

Heat the prop blade nice and hot, to point where you are getting that burnt wood smell. For example,,, if your wanting the pitch to be a 5 and the prop is 4.5, twist the hot blade past 5 and let it cool. It now be a 5 when its cooled off(it might take a couple of tries to get the pitch you desire).

For a bigger change in pitch,,, do as Tom suggests above.

To increase RPM, sand the tip back about 1/32 on each blade till your target RPM is reached. I liked mine between 23.5K to 24K with the old engine.

Again, use a 7.4 X 8 black prop as a guide and you won t go wrong[:D]


BV



daven -> RE: wood props (3/5/2007 12:03:15 AM)

Thanks guys.



proptop -> RE: wood props (3/5/2007 12:10:03 AM)

Thank you too [:D][8D]



BUDMAN27 -> RE: wood props (3/5/2007 8:31:21 AM)

Wow you guys are good. [;)]



Bill Vargas -> RE: wood props (3/5/2007 1:42:31 PM)

Oh ya forgot to say,,, when you make a prop and it doesn t work worth a %$#@!, they make the best stir stick,,, like for epoxy and paint[:D]

BV



daven -> RE: wood props (3/6/2007 1:12:45 AM)

Just got back from the hobby store with a bag of wood props, and three rolls of that yellow stick on sandpaper (80,150,and 220 grits). Then I go back and read this, and I got the wrong props, dang.

I picked up 9x8 Zingers instead of the 8x7's. I also saw some rev ups and bought them, but looks like I went too big there also. They had 9-8s and 9-7 1/2 Rev ups, and some pylon rev ups also. Can't remember the Dia, but the pitch was labeled 8-8.5.

This was an older hobby store with lots of old stuff in it. Kinda neat, I'll have to go back tommorrow.



Bill Vargas -> RE: wood props (3/6/2007 1:59:04 AM)

Dave, just because they say 9 x 8,,, doesn t mean thats what they are. Check the pitch on those props and I think you'll be surprised on what they really are.

Also I was told to look for the props with the wood grain running from tip to tip in straight lines ,,, not all wavy like most are.

Nothing wrong with big,,, you just have more to work with[sm=shades_smile.gif]


BV



daven -> RE: wood props (3/6/2007 2:21:24 AM)

I'm heading home this weekend. I'll grab my pitch gauge, balancer, thin CA, and make some blocks for the sandpaper. Not sure if its the price everywhere, but those little rolls of self stick grit, were about $8 each.

Now I just gotta get a dustbuster to clean up the mess I'm going to make in my apartment! When it warms up, I can sit on my deck in my purple Vikings Lawn Chair. I'm sure my neighbors will love that!



daven -> RE: wood props (3/6/2007 2:25:56 AM)

Also, the 9x8's have a 1/2" thick hub.



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