RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> Quique's Aircraft Support >> RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54
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RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/8/2008 2:50:16 PM   
icebox44


 

Posts: 41
Joined: 9/3/2004
From: gfdr, AK, ISRAEL
Status: offline 		Hi guys

I am using the Quique's engine mount and an os 120ax with stock muffler.
the batt is located on the CG point (i am using 5 cell 2500 mah nimh pack) and still it is nose heavy. I had to add 200 grams at the tail to balance it to 6.75".

< Message edited by icebox44 -- 7/9/2008 9:41:50 AM >

(in reply to Walter_Mitty)
       Post #: 326

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/8/2008 4:55:50 PM   
Walter_Mitty


 

Posts: 17
Joined: 6/24/2006
From: CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Hi Icebox,
I am using a 4200 ni-mh,and had to make a new plate, below and behind the rudder servo tray! It's still a little nose heavy,but i've got about 1" to play with, so should be no problem!!

(in reply to icebox44)
       Post #: 327

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/9/2008 12:06:37 AM   
octanehuffer



Posts: 672
Joined: 7/15/2006
From: Lakeland, MN, USA
Status: online 		So why dont you move the battery to balance the plane?

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(in reply to icebox44)
       Post #: 328

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/9/2008 1:38:58 AM   
Texas_Flyer


 

Posts: 84
Joined: 9/13/2005
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Phil,

Thanks for the tip on the ball-links. I'll see if my local hobby shop has these or something similar.

Alan

(in reply to octanehuffer)
       Post #: 329

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/9/2008 9:40:31 AM   
icebox44


 

Posts: 41
Joined: 9/3/2004
From: gfdr, AK, ISRAEL
Status: offline 		Well...
I think i will add another plate for the pack as walter suggested and try to get rid of those 200 grams.

(in reply to Texas_Flyer)
       Post #: 330

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/9/2008 10:47:06 AM   
Walter_Mitty


 

Posts: 17
Joined: 6/24/2006
From: CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Icebox,
Sent you a PM
Cheers,
Phil

(in reply to icebox44)
       Post #: 331

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/9/2008 11:22:43 AM   
icebox44


 

Posts: 41
Joined: 9/3/2004
From: gfdr, AK, ISRAEL
Status: offline 		Hi phil

Don't know why but i can"t reply to the PM.
Anyway i will appreciate a pic of the new plate location area.

Thank you
Rony

(in reply to Walter_Mitty)
       Post #: 332

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/9/2008 12:44:02 PM   
Walter_Mitty


 

Posts: 17
Joined: 6/24/2006
From: CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Rony (Icebox)
I've sent you an e-mail!!
Hope this works
Cheers
Phil

(in reply to icebox44)
       Post #: 333

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/9/2008 8:39:54 PM   
gbarnes


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Mooresville, NC, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Guys, can somebody tell me how they are mounting their wheel pants. Mine appear too thin to fit the length of the bolt and as shown in the picture are bound up hard against the side of the pant. I don't think you could sand enough off of the pant to relieve the wheel. Much less get in there and tighten the nut. Also am curious if everybodies gear is as toed in as mine is. Any info would be appreciated.

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(in reply to icebox44)
       Post #: 334

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/10/2008 1:20:15 AM   
rajul



Posts: 6218
Joined: 6/18/2002
From: Missouri City, TX, USA
Status: offline 		The toe-in looks bad. Is the toe-in angle on the right side more than the left, or is it due to the camera angle?

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(in reply to gbarnes)
       Post #: 335

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/10/2008 3:22:22 AM   
gbarnes


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 3/22/2007
From: Mooresville, NC, USA
Status: offline 		Rajul,
Must be the angle of the camera. They are both about the same and I would say that the right side is probably more realistic. It looks bad!
Thanks

(in reply to rajul)
       Post #: 336

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/10/2008 4:52:05 AM   
Texas_Flyer


 

Posts: 84
Joined: 9/13/2005
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Walter_Mitty

Hi Texas (Alan),
Hmmm, I must admit that some ball links are a little on the tight side.I always use the "loosest" ones on the closed loop. How's about swapping them out for ballraced ones e.g http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/products/product.php?prodID=175&manID=&keyword=&catID=6&subCatID=266
Now you can't go wrong with these!! I've got them all over my 80" (with a DA50 natch!!)
Let me know what you think!!

Cheers
Phil



Phil,

My LHS didn't have MK, but they did have DuBro and they work fantastic - just like I would expect: low friction movement with no slop at all. Thanks for encouraging me to do that; I feel much better about it now.

Alan

(in reply to Walter_Mitty)
       Post #: 337

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/10/2008 10:08:01 AM   
Walter_Mitty


 

Posts: 17
Joined: 6/24/2006
From: CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Yay Alan!,
Glad i could be of help,It's what the hobby's all about,Just remember, take off's are optional, Landings are MANDATORY!!
Cheers
Phil

(in reply to Texas_Flyer)
       Post #: 338

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/14/2008 7:00:50 PM   
Texas_Flyer


 

Posts: 84
Joined: 9/13/2005
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		The new rudder arm is different from the one pictured in the manual. The new one has holes which are offset from the center hole. Which direction does it go?

Thanks,

Alan

(in reply to Walter_Mitty)
       Post #: 339

RE: New Somenized (TM) 69", Yak-54 - 7/16/2008 2:58:24 AM   
Texas_Flyer


 

Posts: 84
Joined: 9/13/2005
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Is there anyone out there who has build one of these with the new rudder servo arm that can answer my question? Reza? Just in case my question wasn't clear and you didn't know how to answer it, let me describe it differently.

The rudder servo arm has two holes for the balllinks for the pull-pull configuration. If you drew a line from one to the other, it would intentionally miss the center hole by about 3 mm. I assume this is to ensure proper tighness of the wires through-out the deflection. Should the ballink holes be closer to the front of the plane or back? I really don't want to install this backwards as you only get one chance to crimp the wire in the right place...

Thanks for the help,

Alan

(in reply to Texas_Flyer)