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RE: RC Surfer - 10/26/2010 2:24 PM   
skowowski



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Status: offline 		Brett,

4mm threaded prop will fit fine. Solder the hole in the tube, tape and epoxy will not work. Use a prop that is around 27-28mm as you are using a 3600kv motor.

The norm for soldering is 60/40 solder (tin/lead) and a 40 Watt soldering iron.  Remember to always clean the soldering iron's tip between each solder, wire brush will be fine. Goodluck learning to solder, it's a hassle the first 100 times but gets easier after practice. If you are soldering bullet plugs, you should have no problem as they are the easiest to do. Watch a few soldering vids on YouTube before you get started.

Seb


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RE: RC Surfer - 10/26/2010 3:19 PM   
R a i n e r



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Status: offline 		"Solder the hole in the tube"

??

Do you mean soldering the M4 connection thread between shaft and prop?
If you take a right-turning prop the M4-thread automatically tightens while running.

I fear I didn't catch your point.
('might be a language problem ;-))
Thanks for clarification!

Take care!
Rainer

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/26/2010 3:25 PM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Seb,
Does that mean my Octura X431 and Y531props won't fit with the new shaft?

The coupler has arrived but still waiting on the shaft.

I guess I may  have to order some new props before I can run the flexi thingy.

I don't even know how many kv the motors Curlzy sold me are.
So how can I know what prop I will need?


Kev and Brett,
Just tested the modified doll for water, she only leaks around the o-ring posts inside the feet..

I am gonna try and stop that, before I test for self righting quality.

JIMI

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/26/2010 4:04 PM   
skowowski



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Status: offline 		Jimi,

I just checked the length of the propshaft thread and its 12mm, so if you are using a drive dog on your propshaft then yeah, you are going to need to buy some threaded props.

Curly would have sold you a motor around the 3000kv range, so get a prop around the 30mm range. IT MUST BE A THREADED RIGHT HAND M4 PROP! 

Here is a link to where i buy mine, i get the 31mm RH M4:  http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/propellers_2318m4.html

About the water in the leg area.....just cut off her big toe, it lets the water flow out if any gets in.

Rainer,

I honestly have absolutely no idea about what you are thinking i am soldering, but i will try and give an answer.There is a hole in the propshaft tube where you can fit an auto re-greaser to the tube, but given the little amount of space inside the board, you need to seal it or grease will fly out. Sealing it with solder seems to be the only way to keep it sealed. And yes, a right hand prop will tighten as the shaft spins. Saw the pics, Spain does get some waves, the west coast is much better. I suffered the small Mediterranean waves off Mallorca for a long time.

Seb.




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RE: RC Surfer - 10/26/2010 4:09 PM   
R a i n e r



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Status: offline 		"There is a hole in the propshaft tube where you can fit an auto re-greaser to the tube"
===> Now it's clear to me! ;-)

Mediterranean waves might be a little small for real surfing but sure enough for RC-surfing! ;-)


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RE: RC Surfer - 10/26/2010 6:39 PM   
Kevinmham



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Status: offline 		   Jimi.  My o-ring posts also leaked.  I pried off the white o-ring bucket out of the feet and sealed up the back of the post with a bit of urethane.  Silicone will also work.  I also put a little bit in her ankle, so no water could get into her body from there.  Then I epoxied the bucket back on.  Takes ten minutes.  Yeah, you could cut the toe off never thought of thatalso simple !

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 3:32 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Thanks Seb,

I had better order some props too then.
I wish I had known that when I ordered the shaft.
Thanks again mate.

Kev,

It sound like you are onto it.
I have been doing a few experiments and came to the conclusion that removing and sealing the o-ring things was the only way to go.

I tried drilling a hole into ankles and squeezing in some Sikaflek to seal off at the ankle.

I still have one foot leaking and I made a mess of the paint job.

The feet on these dolls are as leaky as the boards they come with, Ha Ha Ha.
But I am determined to get her to seal.

Now I know what to do I might try a second one and this time get it all sealed BEFORE I paint it.

I do prefer the seal rather than drain approach if we can get it to work.
It sounds like you have succeeded.

Well done mate.

JIMI



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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 3:56 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Kev.

I just ripped her feet right off to have a look inside.
The Sikaflek I had squeezed in had only sealed about 3/4 way across the ankle.
She is in the bin.

I am starting another one and now I know what to do I am sure I will be able to get it to seal.

This time I will start by sealing up  the feet before I even melt her.

Cananzi,

If you have not fibreglassed the feet back on your Dudette yet then seal across the ankles before you do.
Otherwise you will have to remove the o-ring sockets and do it and reset them like Kev has done

You can always use Seb's drain hole system, there is a small hole in the feet already and that appears to be for this purpose, maybe you could just drill that out a bit bigger instead of cutting off her toe. Ouch!!!

We are learning.

If I can get a Dudette (Modified Lisa Rider) to seal and stand 9 1/2 tall then I will be happy to use her if she can self right as well as my Dudes.


JIMI

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 4:19 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Kev,

I just did a strength test on that Dudette. She had a layer of epoxy over the entire doll.
Before I threw her in the bin I pulled her arms off, I had to pull them apart quite hard before they broke, they were very strong.

Then I tried pulling her legs apart.
They were extremely strong, I didn't think I would be able to break them. The epoxy putty and epoxy resin coat had made the legs virtually unbreakable.
So I pulled as hard as I could and after a couple of seconds one leg broke off.

If one of these can surf properly they will definately be able to handle any surf I will ever send her out in without breaking.

Now where is that box with all those Lisa's in it?

Was it easy to get the o-ring inserts out?
That will be my first job on Dudette MK II.

Sea Ya,

JIMI



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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 4:35 AM   
skowowski



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Status: offline 		Jimi,

Do you believe me now when I say a Lisa doll can be made to be a hell of a lot stronger than a dude figure....

I put 4oz fiberglass cloth on her main joints and  have never broken a figure since, yet i have been through about 80 o'rings as i pound her in the shore-breaks on a daily basis. (I broke 3 this morning)

Epoxy is good, but it breaks down after a while. Fiberglass on the other hand doesn't and is unaffected by salt water and is a lot stronger. Lisa's total weight with glass is 110g.

The reason I cut off her big toe is the hole under her foot is flat against the board and is harder for the water to escape, water flows out the hole in her toe immediately.

Seb









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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 4:59 AM   
Kevinmham



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Status: offline 		   Jimi,  My o-ring inserts came out fairly easily. They weren't glued in very well at all.  I put a little flat blade screw driver under one edge, and worked it all the way around.  The silver pin that holds the o-ring and screw mount to the white bucket, is wider than the hole in the foot.  A little bit of gentle prying and presto !,  out it came.  Be sure to put some sealer on the pin before remounting the bucket in  the feet. 

      Seeing how poorly the bucket was glued in, I could imagine one decent size wave knocking Lisa off her board quite easily ! I used a good amount of glue when I remounted the buckets.  I also added a leash around her ankle and glued it to the deck, just in case !

   I also think I might do the putty and fiberglass trick to my Dudette.  Yours looks nicer than mine !  Good luck with Dudette MK II ! 

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 5:04 AM   
Kevinmham



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Status: offline 		  I've been trying to find anyone else around here who is into rc surfing. So far no luck. A lot of people have told me that it is the coolest rc product they have seen, but they don't have one either.  So,  anyone on this forum know of anyone around  " Victoria, British Columbia, Canada " who is into rc surfing, let me know.  The more people interested in the hobby, the better it will be !

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 5:55 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Hey Kev,

This will give the crew a laugh!

Dudette  Mk II

I removed the inserts with a stanley blade.
Sealed the ankles with some Sikaflek.
Epoxied the inserts back in.
AND started melting away with my cigarette lighter.

Well, the melt job didn't go too well this time and the knees ended up splitting right open and I ended up throwing her in the bin.
Guess I went too fast with it and the plastic split  and the legs were all wobbly.
The first one did split a tiny bit but I just filled the hole.

Oh well, I still have 2 left.
Next time I think I will do the melt job first and then if it works out well I will do the inserts.
Maybe by the last one I will get everything just right.

I really don't care 'cause it is a lot of fun experimenting.

Bummer Dude!

JIMI
(Gero, West Oz)

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 5:59 AM   
surfcurls



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Status: offline 		AN NQD Girl Can Be Modified For Strength , But The Same Mod On A Kyosho Dude
Would Be Stronger, As They Have SS Wire Thru The Legs And Filled Solid With Foam.



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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 6:08 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Cool Sebski,

My latest Carbon Fibre Dude is also very strong.
He has been getting hammered and shows no signs of stress.
But he still has all his toes.
Ha Ha Ha.
Since I have been using the "Inverted Wingnut Footpegs" I have also notice that I don't break so many o-rings as I did with the standard pegs.
Although I am really sure why.
I was breaking them quite often but now it is very rarely.
Must have something to do with the shape of the pegs.
As you can see, I do run the board often and in decent size waves as far as RC Surfing goes.

Yeah, I guess we all just do whatever it takes to survive and as long as you are having fun that is all that really matters.
Of course, the better your model can surf and the more reliable and consistent it is the more fun you have.

Thanks for sharing mate.

Sea Ya.

JIMI
(Gero, West Oz)

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 6:11 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		I meant to say,

"I am not really sure why."

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 9:51 AM   
R a i n e r



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Status: offline 		"...just cut off her big toe..."

Is that the right way to treat a lady?? ;-)



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RE: RC Surfer - 10/27/2010 10:18 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Hey Dudette Makers,

I am trying a different approach to the melting process.
I just boiled the kettle to make a coffee and I thought to myself,
"Hey I wonder if boiling water will do a more gentle melt job?"

I will let you know what happens.

JIMI
(Geraldton, Western Australia)

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/28/2010 4:07 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Seb,

I ordered 5 x RH 4M 31mm props, do you go through many of these?

I go through heaps of the plastic Octura ones, sometimes 1 a day and I am hoping these will last a bit longer.

Being carbon reinforced nylon I think they should last a bit longer than the plastic ones I currently use.

I am intending to install the new propshaft setup in the Kyosho Lisa and it should fit in with the same modsifications as I use the Kyosho propshaft in my NQD's.

Sea Ya,

JIMI

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/28/2010 4:25 AM   
skowowski



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Status: offline 		 Jimi,

That is the size i use. They last about 3-4 weeks, as long as you don't spin them when you run your surfer up the beach.

Remember to Solder the hole in the shaft tube the you can fit it to the board and run it and see how smooth it runs!

Good Luck


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RE: RC Surfer - 10/28/2010 5:28 AM   
Jimi Findrix



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Status: offline 		Sebski,

Do you just epoxy the shaft in at the tail end?

I have been using epoxy putty and making a bulb around the shaft and plastic keel.
That is how JP showed me and it does work well, it also adds a bit of strength and support to the area I think.

You also said you don't need to fix it in at the motor end, but wouldn't it be better to seal it up anyway.
Just in case water does get inside somehow and goes down to the hull.

Not that that really matters 'cause I have to drain my hull all the time.
I think it gets in through the top of the rudder hole.
I have tried epoxy but it just came off after a few days.
I have tried Sikaflek but it is still leaking.
No matter what I use it only lasts a short while.

There is no other way around the leaking problems.
The hull needs to be taken apart and sealed properly.

Problem is I have two other hulls that are new that are sealed and have tubes puttied in and I don't want to try to take all the putty off.
Even the screws under the deck seal have been puttied over and new seals installed.

So I guess I will be draining boards for quite a while yet.
Once I have used what I have I might try splitting one open.

Sea Ya,

JIMI
(Geraldton, W. A.)



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RE: RC Surfer - 10/28/2010 6:16 AM   
Kevinmham



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Status: offline 		  Jimi, when I got my NQD board, it leaked around the rudder tube. I don't know if yours is leaking here ,but here is how I fixed mine.   Water would leak into the compartment where the rudder adjustment  is made.  I sealed the hatch with grease, to check it.  Still leaked.  Turns out water was coming up the loose fitting rudder shaft.  There is on o-ring on the top and the bottom, but they were not resting on the hull ! 
 
    My solution was to pull the rudder out .  At the top of the rudder shaft, there is a kind of D-section, where the rudder acctuation horn fits over it. The D-section stops the horn from spinning on the rudder shaft.   It appears that the rudder shaft is to long.  I used an olfa knife and cut about  1mm of the top of the rudder shaft.  Not much, I know, but this allows the o-rings to seat in their little notches and seal the rudder tube.  I greased up the seals with thick  car axel grease to lubricate them. My rudder compartment is now totally dry !  If water gets it there, it can travel along the rudder steering rod, and into the board. 
 
    Kind of a long winded explanation, I know, but it might help someone out there !
   
   I have seen other boards with custom made rudder/ fins.  What is the point of changing to a different style ?  Mine has the original  dual fin. Although it is a little flexible, it seems to have excellent steering response. 
   
   Hope this helps. hey, did the hot water help to remold Lisa?  

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/28/2010 6:33 AM   
skowowski



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Status: offline 		Jimi,

Just epoxy the end nearest the shaft, the other end doesn't require it. If you can put epoxy around the end near the motor, give it a try.

Kevin,

Yep, the rudder area is a bit tricky and leaky. I put 1 hour epoxy around where the rudder tube enters the rudder area and i have also done it from the underside with silicone which is easy to do when you separate the hull. I like a nice loose rudder, less tension on the servo and if the rudder has a bit of movement, after a bump on the wave it seems to hang on better and keep a straight line. 

On one board i couldn't work out how water was getting into the electronics areas, and realized water was being forced up the rudder tube, into the rudder bay and then along the rudder pushrod tube. So i just filled the tube with grease and plugged it with an antenna tube end to keep the grease in. Works a charm and i have done it with every board since.

This is why I like separating my hulls, it gives me a chance to seal up everything!

Jimi,

Post pics of your shaft when it's installed.

Seb


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RE: RC Surfer - 10/28/2010 7:48 AM   
Kevinmham



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Status: offline 		  Yeah, the NQD boards deffinatly have their issues !! They are very poorly built, so it doesn't really surprise me that they leak !  That's what you get with most cheap Chinese made products.  I expected to fix a few things when I got mine.  Now, I'm happy with it. 

    I once bought an ARF P-40 warbird kit from an American company. The plane was made in China.  Said so right on the box.  I knew I would have to go over it pretty good, before it flew !!.  The gross part,   the bag containing the screws and other metal parts, smelled like B.O. !!  YUCK !!   It was so bad , that I had to dunk all the metal and plastic parts in hot soapy water to get rid of the smell .   It brought to my mind the stereotypical vision of a  hot Chinese sweatshop, complete with armed gards prodding the employees to work faster !!!  

    I wonder if that is how the NQD Lisas are made !  It would explain a lot !! Ha Ha.

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RE: RC Surfer - 10/28/2010 12:23 PM   
Cananzi



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Status: offline 		guys
I received motor and esc today FAIL. The motors water cooling pipes hit my servo, the shaft is too small for the coupler and the motor doesn't fit the original mount. lmfao!! pity i ordered it before i found this forum, the motor was dirt cheap anyway so im not too worried.

Anyone point me in the right direction for a motor that will fit I dont care about the price expensive or inexpensive? and mount? 



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