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RE: RC Surfer - 5/29/2008 9:45:53 PM   
biglenn


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 4/16/2008
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		how do i get the plastic motor coupler off the original prop shaft on the NQD model? Its on super tight - is it glued? Do i need to get a new prop shaft?

(in reply to SURFMIKE4)
       Post #: 176

RE: RC Surfer - 5/30/2008 2:56:14 AM   
jocktime


 

Posts: 13
Joined: 4/28/2008
From: Lahaina, HI, USA
Status: offline 		biglenn,
I used a Dramal tool with a small cutting blade and put a few cuts in the plastic coupler,
then pealed it off. Then bought a new coupler from Tower Hobbies. No need to
change the shaft.
Jocktime

(in reply to biglenn)
       Post #: 177

RE: RC Surfer - 6/2/2008 4:52:35 PM   
wbf1mad


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 1/30/2005
From: bolton, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		i have an orignal lisa - this year decided to up the motor and use a water cooled esc. she works fine and a lot more speed but the minute you hit full throttle the esc kicks in? any sugestions? im using the 19 turn motor by RCSURFER. the power is there just she cuts for a few seconds the minute apply full throttle. yet out the water she runs fine. esc is a high spec to handle the battery packs as learnt after melting me first one, smoke every were

(in reply to jocktime)
       Post #: 178

RE: RC Surfer - 6/2/2008 11:45:58 PM   
dacaur



Posts: 1423
Joined: 4/18/2005
From: midvale, UT, USA
Status: offline 		what ESC is it?

(in reply to wbf1mad)
       Post #: 179

RE: RC Surfer - 6/3/2008 1:09:25 AM   
SURFMIKE4


 

Posts: 5
Joined: 11/3/2007
From: HUNTINGTON BEACH, CA, USA
Status: offline 		here my boardshark rebuild to work it selfright it all good i cut the surfer off the lid an move it forward 19 turn motor mic swicth for power on only an a volts reguerlater 5v for the reciver add lead under the front part of the battery new rudder sevor

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(in reply to dacaur)
       Post #: 180

RE: RC Surfer - 6/3/2008 8:35:32 PM   
wbf1mad


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 1/30/2005
From: bolton, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: dacaur

what ESC is it?




hi its this one

http://www.ripmax.com/item.asp?itemid=P-XTRA-SESPRINT&Category=060-050

cheers

(in reply to dacaur)
       Post #: 181

RE: RC Surfer - 6/3/2008 11:51:51 PM   
dacaur



Posts: 1423
Joined: 4/18/2005
From: midvale, UT, USA
Status: offline 		all I can think of is to make sure you have water going through the heatsink... where is your water pickup? The way you describe it, it sounds like the esc just cant handle the amp draw when you hit full throttle. There is way more resistance to the prop turning in the water than in the air, which would explain why its fine when its out of the water... looking at the specs for the price of that ESC, I would say its probably pretty cheaply made, not cheap like inexpensive, cheap like crappy.... Those are some pretty high numbers for such a low cost esc... If it were made by a reputable company I would expect it to cost $100 at a bare minimum.... So either the esc is not actualy able to handle what its "rated" at, Or you just got a defective one...
You might also try swapping out the motor, but I suspect the esc is the problem,

(in reply to wbf1mad)
       Post #: 182

RE: RC Surfer - 6/5/2008 7:20:55 AM   
BigWaveMax


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 1/17/2008
From: Laguna Beach, CA, USA
Status: offline 		My latest creation, Any Questions?

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(in reply to SURFMIKE4)
       Post #: 183

RE: RC Surfer - 6/5/2008 7:50:50 AM   
BigWaveMax


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 1/17/2008
From: Laguna Beach, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Here are a couple more shots. I finally got this thing perfected and ready for market after 2 years of R&D. Enjoy the learning curve and plan on spending lots of money, if you are as hooked as I am.

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(in reply to BigWaveMax)
       Post #: 184

RE: RC Surfer - 6/5/2008 9:35:51 PM   
wbf1mad


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 1/30/2005
From: bolton, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: dacaur

all I can think of is to make sure you have water going through the heatsink... where is your water pickup? The way you describe it, it sounds like the esc just cant handle the amp draw when you hit full throttle. There is way more resistance to the prop turning in the water than in the air, which would explain why its fine when its out of the water... looking at the specs for the price of that ESC, I would say its probably pretty cheaply made, not cheap like inexpensive, cheap like crappy.... Those are some pretty high numbers for such a low cost esc... If it were made by a reputable company I would expect it to cost $100 at a bare minimum.... So either the esc is not actualy able to handle what its "rated" at, Or you just got a defective one...
You might also try swapping out the motor, but I suspect the esc is the problem,



cheers, ill take it back. i did say if it could not handle the job id be back for a refund.

(in reply to dacaur)
       Post #: 185

RE: RC Surfer - 6/8/2008 8:43:03 AM   
biglenn


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 4/16/2008
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		After the rudder assembly came off and let aload of water in the crappy stock electrics gave up and the motor seized after a week of not using it! so finaly got it together and out with the old and in with the new.

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(in reply to wbf1mad)
       Post #: 186

RE: RC Surfer - 6/17/2008 10:11:43 AM   
007gb


 

Posts: 5
Joined: 6/17/2008
From: bournemouth, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Hi guys, great forum & loads of useful advice.

I too have bought an NDQ on ebay for £25 and was suprised it worked and surfed out of the box - absolutely great fun.....for a while! As expected after only one 3300nimh battery pack the electrics & motor burnt out!!

So following the advice here I've gutted it, waterproofed and have rebuilt with a hitec servo, mtronics marine esc, 19T motor and improved cooling but am having trouble with the motor coupling.

biglenn - notice you are using an NDQ, what coupling did you use for yours?

Ideally I want to use the same motor mount so coupling can't be too big. I have picked up one end of a coupling from a local model shop (similar to the 3.2mm plain coupling insert here - http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/couplings.html) but it's not ideal as the grub screw part attaches to the motor shaft but the other end needs to be glued/fixed to the prop shaft (I have dremmeled the plastic off so just have the ribbed end of the prop shaft).

Does anyone have any suggestions for how to fix this to the prop shaft i.e. what glue / fixing material to use? Alternatively can anyone recommend a coupling that will do the job? Both motor and prop shaft appear to be 3.2mm.

Thanks in advance for your help.

(in reply to biglenn)
       Post #: 187

RE: RC Surfer - 6/17/2008 11:46:17 PM   
biglenn


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 4/16/2008
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		007gb - I have exactly the same problem. i've gutted it and fitted all my nice new gear but the motor coupling kept coming loose on the propshaft end - Its 3.2 both ends attached with grub screws that i picked up in a local model shop. I thought maybe some threadlock or something may do it? Or maybe grinding a flat in the propshaft like the motor? Would this work? Small problem with alignment too, maybe a UV coupling would sort that?

Wheres the best place to get new props in the UK? The model shops where i live only stock out of the box stuff.

(in reply to 007gb)
       Post #: 188

RE: RC Surfer - 6/17/2008 11:59:30 PM   
dacaur



Posts: 1423
Joined: 4/18/2005
From: midvale, UT, USA
Status: offline 		yea grinding a flat on the shaft would definatly solve the problem, I would do that AND threadlocker...

(in reply to biglenn)
       Post #: 189

RE: RC Surfer - 6/18/2008 8:12:22 AM   
MiFi


 

Posts: 9
Joined: 10/22/2007
From: Erftstadt, GERMANY
Status: offline 		grinding a flat definitely works....got this information from german rc-forum....

micha

(in reply to dacaur)
       Post #: 190

RE: RC Surfer - 6/18/2008