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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/3/2007 5:48:27 AM   
hpi apollo



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anyone been posting this lately? if so it would help keep it at the top of the forum for more to see


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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/3/2007 3:48:26 PM   
turbohardtop


 

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I have seen all this discussion about the HSN and the LSN, what about the midrange needle? How do you tune that relative to the other needles? I have the K4.6 and I am trying to tune it. I was trying to break in the truck earlier and was having a hardtime starting the truck on the ground. If I give it some gas with the wheels off the air then it would start. However, I can never start the car on the ground. The slipper clutch is fairly loose already. I was able to start it with the wheels off the ground then gently push it forward so that it does not stall. BTW, I noticed that the LSN was no where near flush as it should have from factory. All the needles are at flush setting now. I will start leaning out the HSN. Would that help with starting the truck on the ground? Also, I have about 5 tanks through the truck and it has been running PIG rich. Oil has been dripping out of the pipe as the car was running. How much damage could this cause if the car has never been running at the right temperature? I think it has been running at 160ish. thanks.

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/3/2007 5:01:40 PM   
hpi apollo



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your problem sounds like the clutch is dragging, either because of a bad bearing or because your spring came loose, broke, ect, thats why its stalling when its on the ground, then the throttle should be open about 1mm at idle, it doesnt take too much to keep it running, the mid range needle tunes basically like any other needle, i didnt put it in there for the sake of trying not to confuse noobs that have no experience, if you play around with it you will see how it works, when i got my axial it was set just right from the factory, running an engine overly rich during break in is not ideal, lean it out and get it around 220-250


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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/14/2007 3:22:37 AM   
SAVAGEJIM



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This thread has been pretty silent for awhile now, I havent seen any additions or updates to the original recently. Are you guys still working on it? I sure would hate to see this thread die.

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/14/2007 5:15:21 AM   
hpi apollo



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well the forum wont let me edit it anymore than i have so far, i would like to make small revisions but thats about it, we pretty much finished all of our guide work, i did the nitro guide, he did the FAQ guide and since i posted the FAQ guide in here its all here, now im just working on spreading it to as many people as i can to help them, which is all i was really aiming for


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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/14/2007 2:55:43 PM   
71goat


 

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still trying to figure mine out the force.32 runs hot in the warhead not in mgt no matter what i do been trying for weeks ???????????? axial.32 found out carb leaked so sent it back

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/14/2007 3:21:47 PM   
hpi apollo



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you dont need to send an engine back because of an air leak, just seal it yourself, also if you have high gearing in one rc like your mgt then it can make the engine run hot trying to pull the ratio


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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/14/2007 4:04:00 PM   
71goat


 

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tried to seal carb bubbles where coming from everywhere, warhead is running 49/15, mgt 52/15, should'nt I still be able to keep temps down by riching it?

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/14/2007 5:42:10 PM   
hpi apollo



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your engine can run like crap and still overheat if you have too high of a gear ratio, even if it is rich, i dont know anything about the mgt gearing and stuff so i cant really sya if thats high or not


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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 7/30/2007 8:35:28 PM   
beenbreto


 

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man i just read your post, printed it out and I'm now hoping that this gets my car on its feet thanks RC GODZ!!!!

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 8/4/2007 3:34:08 PM   
SAVAGEJIM



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This is a very good thread, and it should be made a sticky. There are way too many people who still ask about break-in and RC care, and this thread has it all.

I did a search using the parameter "break in" and unfortunately, this link was one of dozens; this thread unfortunately was not the first thread to appear on the search result.

We should also "sticky search" this thread also so when anyone uses the search function, they will get this thread first, not the other hundreds of banter threads that do not necessariy go into the details and intricacies of break-in.

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 8/4/2007 6:19:17 PM   
hpi apollo



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well if everyone could PM a moderator to sticky it then it just might get stickied, until then im relying on people posting the URL to it and peoples' posts to act as bumps


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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 8/7/2007 9:35:46 PM   
SFC K



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This is very helpful. Thanks hpi apollo! Please sticky this now!

< Message edited by SFC K -- 8/7/2007 9:36:04 PM >

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 8/11/2007 2:39:50 AM   
hpi apollo



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so far i havent been able to get it stickied, if several people PM the mods it might happen


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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 8/11/2007 4:42:20 AM   
Yankeesuave


 

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What a FANTASTIC POST regarding break in of any engine! I know what I know from break in procedures in instruction manuals and word of mouth, but this takes the cake.

One Problem --->

I'm majorly afraid to dissassemble my engine to seal it.

I'm inexperienced at dissassembling engines:
I've never done it before...but it looks VERY neccessary in prolonging it's life span.
I've seen the instructions; they are fairly clear and consice, but again...very worried.

What would you suggest...

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 8/11/2007 5:15:03 PM   
hpi apollo



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really there arent too many parts to the engine, they are simple if you look, crankshaft, con rod, piston, sleeve, backplate, and cooling head...oh and the start shaft for some engines


just get the right sized hex driver for the head, take it off, take the backplate off (pullstart first but remove it slowly and you wont have a problem) remember which way the one way bearing went on, then youget the sleeve out by just rotating the flywheel or the crank with some pliers (do this to the