RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs
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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/26/2007 12:12:05 AM

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apparently it is opening it too much when you adjust the throttle trim, adjust the throttle linkage instead of trying to on the radio and try to tune it, other than that, its hard to explain without being there, its a trial and error type thing

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/30/2007 9:25:54 PM

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I had something weird happen yesterday. I recently broke-in the engine on my NTC3. It has been starting and running fine. I an through one tank. Then after I refueled, the car it started acting strangely: accelerating from dead stop, the car started yawing violently to the right, in a circle, not quite spinning in place, but making a very tight circle. I tried steering the wheels to the left (visibly pointing hard left) before accelerating, but the car was still pulling fiercely to the right, circling. I picked up the car, hit the throttle and everything looked normal (no debris jammed on one axle, etc.) I couldn't for the life of me figure out why it was behaving like this.

I took it into my local hobby store (LHS) and a friendly tech checked my car out, advising me that the rear differential was fine. We started it up in front of the store, without making any adjustments, and the car ran just fine without any of that crazy yawing to the right. I was dumbfounded.....The only thing that the tech suggested might have explained the problem I had was weak receiver batteries. he advised that I replace them, but they still seem to have enough 'oomph...; when steering. So I don't think that was the problem.

One other thing problem that I have is that my throttle doesn't move the car until the trigger is depressed by at least 1/3rd. One other forum member suggested that I try leaning out the low speed needle, but after turning it a full 1/4 clockwise, I am not seeing any appreciable difference in how my throttle responds: It only revs up for the first 1/3rd of the pull... Any other ideas or explanations? Thanks folks.

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/30/2007 9:32:27 PM

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well on the turning issue, obviously something is creating a speed difference in the wheels, one side is ither locking up or getting all of the power, sounds like the doofs or some sort of broken part to me

about the car not moving, can you hear the engine revving up before it starts to move? sounds like the clutch is the problem to me, i'd take it apart, clean it, put it back together carefully

then again the first problem could cause the second problem, something in the drivetrain in binding, causing the engine to have to rev higher to get more power and overcome the drag

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/30/2007 10:22:37 PM

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'about the car not moving, can you hear the engine revving up before it starts to move? sounds like the clutch is the problem to me, i'd take it apart, clean it, put it back together carefully'

The engine definitely revs up and finally the car starts to move. I have never really taken apart anything mechanical before. Can you recommend a how-to-guide? Or is taking apart and reassembling a R/C clutch basically a straightforward/idiot-proof task?

Is the 'doofs' the name of a part?

'then again the first problem could cause the second problem, something in the drivetrain in binding, causing the engine to have to rev higher to get more power and overcome the drag'

Which part is the drivetrain? By 'binding', do you mean that two parts are sticking together? Could you give me any links to photos of a drivetrain, clutch and other relevant parts? THanks!

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/31/2007 2:52:51 AM

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sorry, i was typing quickly and i meant to type "diffs" but it came out very badly, you are going to have to get your manual and learn to take apart things and put them back together, there is only one way to learn and you cant be shy about it, the drivetrain is anything involving the system used to move the car (engine, gears, shafts, ect) you have to learn to take apart your own rc and soon enough you will be able to without even needing a guide

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/31/2007 5:20:49 AM

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Ok, fair play, I understand your point about having to spend time in the trenches to learn, so to speak. But where specifically does an absolute newcomer actually begin to experiment? I see that an assembly manual for the 'kit version' came enclosed with my car when purchased. So maybe I can just follow the instructions in reverse to take apart my car; does this sound like a sensible way to start?

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/31/2007 5:44:18 AM

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yep, exactly the way to do it, cant take out the transmission before you take out the stuff that was put on after it for example, usually the engine is one of the last things to go in

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 12/31/2007 9:33:53 PM

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Thanks. I also notice that even with sporadic use of wide open throttle (WOT), my engine doesn't get above 195 degrees. I'm not experiencing 'bogging' or any of the usually cited indicators of running too rich. Will this wear my engine out prematurely (running below 210 to 220 degrees)? Should I still richen my high speed needle even if I am not experiencing any performance problems? Thanks.

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/1/2008 5:15:37 PM

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how cold is it where you are running? can you still lean it out more to raise the temp a little and not receive any sort of bogging, you want to get the engine at least above 200

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/1/2008 11:38:04 PM

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With intermittent high speed, alternating between WOT and lower to mid-speeds, my temp gun fives me 165 to 170 degres. If I really try to open it up and use more WOT, the engine still doesn't get much above 190. I will cross my fingers and take your advice to try leaning the high speed needle a bit next time I run even though this makes me nervous. This will sound strange, but I have been kind of afraid to change any of my settings lest I foul up something. Up until now, I have been happy with with my car running reasonably well and not burning out my engine

But if I understand you and the other experienced members, running not hot enough is just as bad as running too hot. This forum is a great resource: nowhere else did I read about the dangers of running too cool....

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/1/2008 11:58:32 PM

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Oh and the temp outside is in the high forties to low fifties when I run my car. I don't know if that makes much difference.

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/2/2008 4:18:27 AM

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i bought anew truck off the web i'm a frist timer. my truck cut off after i drive it trying to break it in what can be wrong .

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/2/2008 3:56:59 PM

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sturmgrenadier: LEAN IT OUT, the factory settings on engines are way more likely to cause damage to something and foul plugs up than your settings, that it why i wrote this guide on how to tune and said to tune while breaking in engines, your engine should make quite a bit more power when you get it up to temp, and use less fuel, i'd also say with those temps outside to get it around 240ish, remember, its not an exact science so im just throwing an approximate number out there

mightydogg: have you even read the entire guide on the first page? i wrote this guide for a noob that knows nothing and it tells you everything you need to know to break in and tune an engine, the FAQ guide is on page 2. the reason i am reluctant to just answer your question is because after seeing hundreds of these similar questions i decided to write a guide and put an end to it, if you are determined enough you will read the entire guide and apply it, then ask questions once you have tried with the guide several times

i dont mean to sound rude but i didnt spent alot of my time writing this guide only to answer simple questions like my engine cut out, what could be wrong

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/2/2008 9:47:43 PM

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Hard for me to quantify this since I haven't been timing, but it does feel like I am going through fuel pretty fast. Improved fuel economy would be welcome

I know that I am not getting fifteen minutes of run time per tank. Also, my engine doesn't bog when I accelerate, but I do notice that it feels a little restrained (like it isn't going as fast as it could) when I hit WOT (plenty of smoke and noise though).

After reading your guide and a reprint of the 'Drake method' on another thread, I am still not clear on whether 'pinch' is good? If pinch is caused by the sleeve fitting tightly around the piston, why would one want to heat the sleeve to expand it? Wouldn't that lessen the 'pinch' (assuming pinch is a desirable attribute). Once when I was having trouble starting my engine, I took it to my local hobby shop (LHS) and a tech helped me get it started. He suggested that I just let it idle through a tank (which I now know is incorrect). When it got near the end of the tank, the engine started revving up high so he killed it by pinching the fuel line. I thought all was well, but then when I got home, I realized that my starter cord wouldn't pull out at all (not even 1 mm) and the flywheel wouldn't rotate the slightest bit.

When I came back and explained to a different tech what I was doing before the cord/flywheel got stuck, he disassembled the engine and told me that it was just a 'pinch' and that this sometimes happens to new engines. He explained to me that if it happened again, the solution was to simply take a flathead screwdriver to force the flywheel free with brute force. My question is whether this 'pinch' was caused by my not setting my flywheel to the so-called 'bottom dead center'? Or does pinch just sometimes occur? To reach bottom dead center, do you mean that you rotate the flywheel counter-clockwise (the only direction mine will turn) until just after it gets over that stiff resistance hump (and then it becomes easy to rotate)?

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/3/2008 12:32:59 AM

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this is pulled directly from the first page of the guide

Side note: Pinch will make your engine hard to turn over. This is why your engine always seems to get stuck, the reason it happens is the cylinder is smaller at the top than it is at the bottom; therefore it’s harder to push the piston through at the top. The reason for pinch is compression, since nitro’s don’t have piston rings, we have to use pinch.

the reason your piston got stuck was because it was at the top of the cylinder when it cooled and contracted, set your flywheel at bottom dead center (bdc) when you are done running, pinch isnt a bad thing

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RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs - 1/3/2008 12:57:55 AM

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OK. From now on, I will make sure that my piston is at bottom dead