Sig Koverall

Sig Koverall
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Sig Koverall - 3/6/2007 10:51:55 PM

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From: Clovis, CA, USA
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I am looking to recover an Aronca Champ looking kit I have purchased from a friend. It is a 50-60 size plane I am going to put a 52 four stroke on it. I have done a lot of work with monokote but I would like to give this plane a different look.

Has any one used Koverall and Stix-It?

What do you think of it?

How easy was it to mask and paint?

Does it give the fabric finish to it?

Is there some thing better?

Thanks
Brian

RE: Sig Koverall - 3/6/2007 11:07:16 PM

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I have been using Koverall for about 20 years now, and there is nothing better for a scale finish. For a look, go to the Vintage and Antique forum, and open the WACO YMF thread. Lots of information and pictures. It finishes extremely well, but there is some work involved. It ain't an iron it on and hope for the best option like the plastic film.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 1:53:57 AM

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Listen to the Master Chief. Once you've used Koverall, and done the extra work to finish it, you'll want to use it on everything. It ain't a cut-it-out-and-iron-it-on covering, there's definitely work involved; but it is strong, shrinks up tight, and will never sag or wrinkle in the sun. Too many ways to seal it and paint it to mention here, but I think the traditional nitrate and butyrate dope method is still the best. Here's two done in Koverall. Both are doped; the L-4 is painted with Rustoleum and polyurethane, the Bristol is painted with LustreKote

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 3:07:46 AM

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Here are a few examples dpme in Koverall. The WACO Biplane is new, the Corben Super Ace and the Cub are over 10 years old. The PT-19 is done in dress liner (unshrunk) and is 25 years old. This stuff lasts forever (I think) The WACO is finished in Automotive paint. The rest are done with Butyrate dope over Nitrate dope.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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It's easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesn't look like an airplane.

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 4:24:13 AM

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From: Richmond, TX, USA
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Bill,

I am very impressed with your finishes, and you have inspired me to try the coverall. I have only covered my trainer with monocoat, and I have never been happy with the finish. It just looks like plastic, and planes are not plastic!

Is there a good resource for me, where I can learn about how to apply the coverall to the air frame (dope, hairspray, bubble gum, waddle and daub?) to filling the weave to types of paints or other finishes for it?

I browsed thru your WACO thread, and it is just overwhelming. I guess that is another one on my list that must be built. I just love the classic planes from WWI to WWII and all in between.

(in reply to Stickbuilder)

RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 5:31:46 AM

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From: Castle Rock, CO, USA
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I'd posted a question over in QA about koverall and other painted options but it's not getting much action..

what are the options other than dope for attaching and sealing? I know nitrate dope is king but I was hoping for low odor options.

I was going to practice using koverall on my Midwest Sweet Stik that used to be done in Coverrite..

After I get some practice I'll do my Nosen 40 Citabria then re-cover my Aristo-Craft PT-17 thats currently covered with film.

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 5:45:50 AM

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From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
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Search this forum for "koverall" and you should find quite a number of threads regarding the use of Koverall and fiberglass cloth with Minnwax PolyCryllic. It is a water based acryllic that works very well for attaching and filling the cloth. Being water based, clean up is a snap and it doesn't fume you out of the house. You can paint over it with latex paints (basically house paints...) for almost unlimited color options and choices. For gas engines, the latex is fuel proof as is, for glow a clear coat of laquer or other fuel proof paint is required to protect the latex paint.

Mark

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 10:42:10 AM

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The only problem with using the Minnwax, or other poly-based acrylics is that the Nitrate dope does continue to shrink the covering, while the acrylics do not. I use the spray booth at the dealership so that I don't fume the house out, or do it outside. These may not be an option for you though. You can also adhere the cloth to the framework using SIG Stix-it. This is a thermal activated product. Best of luck.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

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It's easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesn't look like an airplane.

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 2:51:30 PM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Stickbuilder

The only problem with using the Minnwax, or other poly-based acrylics is that the Nitrate dope does continue to shrink the covering, while the acrylics do not. I use the spray booth at the dealership so that I don't fume the house out, or do it outside. These may not be an option for you though. You can also adhere the cloth to the framework using SIG Stix-it. This is a thermal activated product. Best of luck.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Bill, that is a valid point. I have not used the PolyC yet, but I do have a Kadet Sr. wing I covered with Koverall and dope close to 15 years ago and it is still as tight as a drum today. My problem with the dope is that I must do it in the garage and it is too cold through the winter to do much out there, especially not painting.... The PolyC will allow me to finish an airframe right up to the clearcoat inside the basement, then simply add the clear in the garage when spring comes. Much better for production that way.

Mark

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 3:38:32 PM

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From: Dayton, OH, USA
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I too have been wanting to try using Koverall and have done alot of searches on it. The one question that I cant find the answer to is how to apply it to the cut outs for the ailerons. Do you do it the same as if you were using monokote by cutting strips and applying those first or do you just go to the edges of the openings and then use the dope to seal the wood where the hinges are mounted.
About the strong odor of doping in the house, during my searches a fellow suggested using the sented oils that you can by in drug stores and add a few drops in it and it will cover the smell. I believe he was referring to those little glass bottles that women use when they make hard tack candy.
Thanks

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 3:50:01 PM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ginsco75

I too have been wanting to try using Koverall and have done alot of searches on it. The one question that I cant find the answer to is how to apply it to the cut outs for the ailerons. Do you do it the same as if you were using monokote by cutting strips and applying those first or do you just go to the edges of the openings and then use the dope to seal the wood where the hinges are mounted.
About the strong odor of doping in the house, during my searches a fellow suggested using the sented oils that you can by in drug stores and add a few drops in it and it will cover the smell. I believe he was referring to those little glass bottles that women use when they make hard tack candy.
Thanks

You can do either for the cutouts. I have done it by folding the edges over and by adding pieces separately, but because you are painting it you can really just let the dope seal it and the paint cover it. Unlike films, where you have an open edge seam if you cover them with a separate piece, the painting will seal that edge nicely.

It's not just the odor, there are lots of volatile organics in dope and I am not really interested in subjecting my family to that particular health risk. Interesting idea for small doping jobs, though.

Mark

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 5:20:23 PM

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fly4,

Something better? In a word, Solartex. If you can use Monokote, you'll love this stuff. Goes on with less heat, covers curves better, shrinks tighter. Best of all, it IS A FABRIC, and can take any dope, paint or varnish finish you like. I've done Koverall and stixit, and it works very well, but this stuff is the absolute best in my book. A really neat job with a lot less work and stink.

papermache

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 7:14:25 PM

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Thanks for the reply. Thats what I was kinda thinking about the paint and the dope sealing the edges and the wood but wasnt sure.
Thanks for clearing that up.
Scott

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RE: Sig Koverall - 3/7/2007 9:39:56 PM

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Actually, you can run the Koverall full Chord, and then cut from the corner of the aileron pocket at a 45 degree angle, and wrap the opening as you would do a box. Seal the material down with the dope, and you wind up with a nice finish.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

_____________________________

It's easy, just glue all the pieces together, and sand off everything that doesn't look like an airplane.

(in reply to ginsco75)

RE: Sig Koverall - 3/8/2007 12:25:20 AM

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Guys, I'm getting ready to cover my Cox WACO in the next week or so, and will be using Koverall. I have been posting my mods to this ARF over on Stickbuilder's thread in the Antiques forum, and will be more than happy to post the covering and give commentary as I go. Would you prefer it to remain on his thread, or would you like it here, as a separate thread on using Koverall? I use the Stix-It and dope method. I can cover the rudder and elevators first to show the basics, or whatever you'd like to see first. If you'd like, I can try to put the audio on, so you can hear my wife complain about the stink

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