Tired Old Man
Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline
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Anyone that strips one out will have done one of three things. Installed it cross threaded to begin with. Used the wrong type bolt, i.e, standard instead of metric. Felt that all the bolts had to weld themselves to the hub metal to be considered "tight enough". All three are owner error.
For those that have never worked with a multi-bolt hub it's not as bad as it appears. First, the bolts only have to be tightened to about 35-40 INCH pounds. Not foot pounds. Don't have a torque wrench, no problem. Just use a torque/tightening sequence that permits you to snug up bolts as they oppose each other. Then go back around the same way a couple of more times until they are "snugged" up Not cranked down, but tight enough that a quick flick of the wrist and allen wrench doesn't turn them futher. If you feel unsure after all that, start the engine and go through a couple of rpm cycles from behind the plane. Shut it down and check the bolts. No need to squash the center of the prop hub all the way to the other side. That's much too tight if you do and the prop will die an early death.
Here's a secret tip. Get a "Tee" handled allen wrench. When the "Tee" snugs up tight using only one hand and wrist action it's tight enough.
Drill all props from the back side, not the front. The holes always line up better and don't "pinch" as they are tightened. If the bolt does not spin into the threads freely and easily, don't force it. Remove the prop and see where you drilled it wrong. Use a thin flat washer under the bolt head. No need for a lock washer. Matter of fact, don't use a lock washer.
< Message edited by Silversurfer -- 3/28/2007 12:18:40 AM >
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If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.
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RE: New 53cc engine now available - 
