RE: Royal-FW190A8  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: Royal-FW190A8
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RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 6/7/2007 5:08:07 AM   
Baldeagle


 

Posts: 1423
Joined: 2/2/2002
From: Lakeside, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Tim I have made a wing jig using aero shaft and two blocks of wood. Drill 2 holes in the wing ribs front and rear, Stack the ribs so you can drill all the ribs at one time. Make your blocks and drill holes to match. Measuring from the bottom of the block make the rear hole app 1/2 in higher than the front hole, This is on the wing tip block only. The root block will be level . That will give you washout. I hope this makes sence. Rich

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Rich

(in reply to bigtim)
       Post #: 26

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 6/7/2007 5:23:34 AM   
G.F. Reid



Posts: 741
Joined: 12/5/2001
From: Palmetto, GA, USA
Status: offline 		A wing jig is pretty simple to make although I've never used one, you used to see them a lot in the modeling press and "how-to" books.
Basically, it's a wooden base a little longer than one half the wing span of the largest model you plan to use it with. Lets' say 4 ft for the sake of discussion. A wooden base 4 ft long and say, 12" in width. On each end of the base, there is an upright the same width as the base and maybe 6 inches high.
This is tough to describe so I did a google search and came up with this. Halfway down the page-
http://www.nextcraft.com/importanceofgoodtools.html

(in reply to bigtim)
       Post #: 27

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 6/7/2007 6:05:18 AM   
SMUGator



Posts: 1347
Joined: 10/28/2003
From: Sammamish, WA, USA
Status: offline 		Interestingly, the only warped wing I ever built was laid up on a jig in the mid 80's. I abandoned that approach and went back to building on flat surfaces with shims where needed.

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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair

(in reply to G.F. Reid)
       Post #: 28

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 6/7/2007 6:37:05 AM   
bigtim


 

Posts: 2225
Joined: 5/31/2004
From: san francisco, CA, USA
Status: offline 		super guys, that makes perfect sence to me my FW 190 doesn't have any references to a jig at all and says to build flat at the trailing edge but the ME 109 has a big section recomending one being used I think I will mess with some wood and rods to see if I can get something I feel is workable.
I can see the potential for warpage especially if the rods used can flex at all I will search for some stiffer type of tubing or solid steel.
the royal kits are nice there is some old school stuff that can use some upgrading like the 109's solid balsa cowl but the plans look sweet.
the FW is first in line.

(in reply to SMUGator)
       Post #: 29

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 6/7/2007 12:31:09 PM   
grumman-cats



Posts: 123
Joined: 11/2/2005
From: leslie, MI, USA
Status: offline 		I've used the great planes wing building jig which was basically described earlier except that it uses 1/4" steel rod. I personally have had great success with using them, I even used them for the fuselage which worked rather well on my bearcat. It allows you to build both sides of the wing before removing the rod. When your done with one side you just flip it and do the other. I will say this, when you go to remove the rods its' easier to use a drill to spin the rod while your pulling it out. It makes a loud noise but it's easier none the less.


_____________________________

Jim Norton
flying: grumman F8F bearcat, X-TREME aerobat, goldberg SU26, Top flite Seafury

(in reply to bigtim)
       Post #: 30

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 8/7/2007 5:43:56 AM   
pauser98


 

Posts: 127
Joined: 7/25/2002
From: bsb,
Status: offline 		I started building this Marutaka FW190A way back in 2003. Now have got a RCV90CD
engine for it (it just fits ino the crowl upright).

Here are some pictures.

Chris


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(in reply to grumman-cats)
       Post #: 31

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 8/7/2007 8:09:20 AM   
bigtim


 

Posts: 2225
Joined: 5/31/2004
From: san francisco, CA, USA
Status: offline 		chris your FW looks looks great I am planning to go with a OS91fs for mine,are you going to put retracts in it,if so which ones.
I am going to use the Century Jet's in mine, as well as installing flaps,when you get it flying then please post some info.
I am still painting my P-47 and am seeing the finish line ahead, so I will be starting the build this fall I figure.

(in reply to pauser98)
       Post #: 32

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 8/7/2007 1:58:02 PM   
Baldeagle


 

Posts: 1423
Joined: 2/2/2002
From: Lakeside, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Chris your Royal FW looks great. I sure brings back some memories of mine. Best flying warbird I ever had. Rich

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Rich

(in reply to bigtim)
       Post #: 33

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 8/7/2007 3:02:24 PM   
pauser98


 

Posts: 127
Joined: 7/25/2002
From: bsb,
Status: offline 		Thanks. I hope it will fly as well and it's not overweight. I used a simple mechanical retracts, but make it scale. It turned out to be too long and too thin. Ground handling would be interesting. Also I cut out the ribs for flaps. That cost me a year.
I just put in a cockpit kit from Top-Flite FW190D.

Chris

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(in reply to Baldeagle)
       Post #: 34

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 8/7/2007 5:00:20 PM   
aghost



Posts: 352
Joined: 5/7/2002
From: Amarillo, TX, USA
Status: offline 		bigtim: Regarding CJ retracts, I don't know which CJ retracts you plan to use, but several folks, including myself, had problems with the CJ retracts for the TF FW-190. The connector between the strut and the retract mechanism bends too easily. There are lots of good comments about other models of CJ retracts, but this particular retract seems to be a problem. There's a thread with folks experience with them.

Brian

(in reply to pauser98)
       Post #: 35

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 8/8/2007 12:29:54 AM   
bigtim


 

Posts: 2225
Joined: 5/31/2004
From: san francisco, CA, USA
Status: offline 		CJ makes a particular retract for the Royal FW190A8 as well.
I also have read about the bending issue and I happen to have another set for the TF FW190D9, I purchased the plane and retracts as a set,.I have read that CJ has improved the connecting pin.
but havent contacted them yet about getting replacements.
the gear I am using for my jug are pretty stout and I am pleased with the scale look,I havent purchased the gear for the Royal so my options are still open.
the thing that I liked about the CJ's is there axel positioning,skyshark recomended the robart retracts but the struts are strait so you end up with a tilted wheel that doesn't look all that scale.
its one of the reasons I started this thread was to get more info it helps alot to see what others have done and are doing.

(in reply to aghost)
       Post #: 36

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 8/8/2007 1:41:01 AM   
LDM


 

Posts: 4843
Joined: 5/29/2003
From: Denver, PA,
Status: offline 		try lenn from shinding , he make oleo struts for this type of plane ,heavy duty for about $80.
I have used CJ gear and love them , emial Bruce your concerns he will reply

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LDM

(in reply to bigtim)
       Post #: 37

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 9/12/2007 3:22:05 AM   
bigtim


 

Posts: 2225
Joined: 5/31/2004
From: san francisco, CA, USA
Status: offline 		in the interest of keeping this thread alive untill I can start this plane I found this kit on ebay and my eyes poped out when I saw the price 6 days and aproching 300$.makes me think of selling (not really) but its entertaining watching the prices
another thing I did was to get a fiber glass cowl so I can double cut this kit from my templates.
all I need now is to either find or make my own canopy, I am not to confident in my vac forming skills but if I can,t find one I might have to give it a try.

(in reply to LDM)
       Post #: 38

RE: Royal-FW190A8 - 9/13/2007 1:41:33 AM   
LDM


 

Posts: 4843
Joined: 5/29/2003
From: Denver, PA,
Status: offline 		The Royals kits demand great money on Ebay , more then the pica kits

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LDM

(in reply to bigtim)