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Dauntless.... - 2/26/2003 2:35:43 AM   
warbirdz1


 

Posts: 578
Joined: 8/7/2002
From: Pembroke pines, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Tmoth4.....To resolve your dowel problem........take a piece of aluminum tube and insert dowel inside it and then install ......no further problems......Bill.....

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       Post #: 26

1 of 3 - 2/26/2003 4:40:11 AM   
smchale



Posts: 843
Joined: 6/19/2002
From: Malvern, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Hope these pics come through ok. This is the wing center section outer rib. blind nut is inside on the back side of a ply doubler on this rib. not the second rib in as I originally thought. The slightly larger hole beside it is for the dowel that I left in the outer panel.

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Cheers, Sean McHale
www.strictlyscale.com....and Revver Brotherhood #101

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       Post #: 27

2 of 3 - 2/26/2003 4:43:26 AM   
smchale



Posts: 843
Joined: 6/19/2002
From: Malvern, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Here is the outer wing panel underneath. the hatch is cut in and hinged with some BVM hinges on one side and held with some very small servo sized socket head screws on the other. It's are to make out but the hole is on the rib and an 8-32 socket head screw and washer is fed through and into the blind nut on the inner wing panel. The slight dihedral in the wing helps get at this screw.

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_____________________________

Cheers, Sean McHale
www.strictlyscale.com....and Revver Brotherhood #101

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       Post #: 28

3 of 3 - 2/26/2003 4:45:43 AM   
smchale



Posts: 843
Joined: 6/19/2002
From: Malvern, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Another view of the outer wing panel and you can see the dowel and the screw coming through. I find that if I plug in the wings, do up this screw, it's easy then to put the 2 screws into the wing tube. Everything stays tight and there is no fear of the wing trying to rotate on the tube if a dowel was to fail. I know it's a rare instance, but it only needs to happen once to be the end of the plane.

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_____________________________

Cheers, Sean McHale
www.strictlyscale.com....and Revver Brotherhood #101

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       Post #: 29

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 2/26/2003 9:19:50 AM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Sean,

Thanks loads for the pictures! I'm glad you made this suggestion. I'm definitely going to follow it. I can see how the extra bolt would tighten things down and keep vibration from working the dowel loose in the hole.

Jim

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       Post #: 30

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/3/2003 8:31:42 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Update on Ziroli Dauntless. The fin and rudder have been constructed. I used the "core" method of building the rudder. The hinging is per the plans, a thin wire passes through tubes that are buried in the leading edge of the rudder. It works very smooth and looks scale.

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Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/3/2003 8:39:09 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Here's the fin and rudder after glassing and covering. I'm glassing using water-based polyurethane. The bare wood is sealed first with Deft laquer-based clear to keep the water from raising the grain. The rudder is covered with Sig Koverall and filled with the WB poly.

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Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/3/2003 10:59:43 PM   
NE0



Posts: 1170
Joined: 7/30/2002
From: Newark, OH, USA
Status: offline 		TMoth,

I've got the SIG Koverall to cover my SBD control surfaces too. I planned to use SIG Stixit to apply the cloth to the wood, is that what you used?

I also bought Butyrate Dope to coat the cloth with after covering, then I plan to use WB Latex to paint it with. Ever used the dope on Koverall? That's what the SIG instructions say to use, so that's what I bought.

Neo

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Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/3/2003 11:26:01 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Neo,

I stuck the Koverall down with balsarite. It's probably similar to the stixit. You brush it on the framework edges so the Koverall will stick.

I have used dope with the Koverall but I like the WB poly better. It seals the cloth in 1 or 2 coats. If you have dope already you might as well use it, but be prepared for complaints from your "significant other" about the fumes.

Jim

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       Post #: 34

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/4/2003 2:39:28 AM   
NE0



Posts: 1170
Joined: 7/30/2002
From: Newark, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Tmoth,

Thanks... My shop isn't in my house... it's in my studio (work). My "significant other" there is my flying partner, and he and I have been known to "pass strong odors" in the past! ;-)

I guess it's all part of working with your best friend eh! My wife on the other hand... she'd kick me out if I started using dope! I'll probably wait until the weather warms up enough that I can do it outside anyway. Fumes shouldn't be a problem there.

Have you ever used the Latex over Dope? I'll switch to the WP poly if you think that painting Latex over the Butyrate Dope will be a problem. Do you think I should primer over it first?

Neo

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       Post #: 35

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/4/2003 3:49:38 AM   
pittsdriver



Posts: 820
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Twin Falls, ID, USA
Status: offline 		Neo, I use latex over dope all the time. I use non-tautning nitrate for the base coats. I wet sand with 400 to dull the surface and then spray the color coats. I then spray on a couple of coats of buyterate or lustercoat to seal and fuelproof. Make sure that you get a couple of good base coats of dope and sand or the paint will want to lift with any masking. I like nitrate for a base as it dries quick and is harder than buyterate and sands nicer. Also use non-tautning dope or your plane will look like a pretzel a year or so down the road. Don

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       Post #: 36

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/4/2003 6:40:56 PM   
NE0



Posts: 1170
Joined: 7/30/2002
From: Newark, OH, USA
Status: offline 		So, let me see if I understand this correctly... I can

1) Apply a few coats of non-tautning Nitrate Dope over the Koverall

then

2) Sand and apply Lustrecoat primer coats

then

3) Sand and apply Latex Color Coats.

Will those steps work?
Can I brush the dope on?
Where can I get non-tautning Nitrate Dope? Never seen it.

Thanks,

Neo

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Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/4/2003 7:20:24 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Neo,

I think he means non-tautening dope, which means it doesn't shrink much, and the clear Lustrecoat is sprayed on last to fuelproof the latex. The initial coats of dope are brushed on.

Sig sells nitrate and butyrate dopes depending on how much shrinkage you want. They explain the uses of the two dopes on the cans. Their website might explain the dopes.

Jim

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       Post #: 38

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/4/2003 8:55:14 PM   
pittsdriver



Posts: 820
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Twin Falls, ID, USA
Status: offline 		Neo you don't need to prime after the nitrate, just go right to paint. If you are going to weather it you should paint it with silver first as all fabric jobs have a silver coat as a UV barrier. I just use a spraycan of silver laquer. NAPA auto has the best spray laquer. Don

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       Post #: 39

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 3/4/2003 10:05:37 PM