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Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/17/2003 6:51:29 AM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Here's how my flaps look now. They were sealed with an airbrushed coat of Deft clear, then airbrushed red with Rustoleum latex. Next they get clearcoated with oil-based polyurethane to gas-proof them. I decided to paint the divebrakes and flaps before permanently mounting them because it would be a real pain to paint the insides later.

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       Post #: 126

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/17/2003 6:57:28 AM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		here's the other side. It's painted with Behr housepaint, also airbrushed on (took several coats).

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       Post #: 127

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/17/2003 6:59:20 AM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Finally got the nerve to start cutting up the canopy. I made a curved frame from 1/4 plywood to support the rear of the windshield.

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       Post #: 128

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/17/2003 6:06:33 PM   
NE0



Posts: 1170
Joined: 7/30/2002
From: Newark, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Tmoth,

Your SBD is lookin' awesome! I plan to paint my flaps before mounting as well. I'll be using metal piano hinges, so they'll go together a little differently than yours. Still need to get the new servos before I can do any more on them. Started on the retracts, but haven't had time to work on them much lately... working a lot of hours at my "real job" tends to cramp my building schedule!

Neo

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       Post #: 129

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/18/2003 5:07:30 AM   
rebells_McLaren


 

Posts: 27
Joined: 3/28/2003
From: HitraTrondelag, NORWAY
Status: offline 		I am also using water based latex paint.
I thought I was supposed to use water based polurethane clear coat and not oil based ?
Actually I have already painted one wing with it allready.
Hmm. I better run outside to the garage and check it out.

Trond.

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       Post #: 130

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/18/2003 5:25:19 AM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		rebells,
I used water-based clear urethane on one plane and have had no problems even with gas spilled on it, but on another plane the latex started to bleed from raw gas spilled on it. I'm not sure what the problem was. I ended up spraying the oil-based urethane on top of the water-based on that one plane. I know from past experience that the oil-based Minwax clear is fuel-proof. The only thing I don't like about it is that it yellows your colors somewhat, especially if you put it on too heavy.

Try making a test piece finished withe the WB poly and drip some raw gas on it to see what happens, maybe you'll be OK. I would let it dry for a couple of days before testing it though.

Jim

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       Post #: 131

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/19/2003 9:49:43 PM   
NE0



Posts: 1170
Joined: 7/30/2002
From: Newark, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Tmoth,

What about your dive brakes? Have you figured out how your mounting control horns onto them? I see that you've got them external on the flaps, sticking out the bottom, but what about the brakes on top?

My horns are all internal on the flaps and brakes both. I'll let the screw heads and back plates for the horns show on the exterior bottom for the flaps since they're not readlily seen. But not sure about the brakes. I really don't want the screw heads and nylon back plates mounted externally on the top exterior side of the 2 brakes. Ideas?

Neo

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       Post #: 132

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/19/2003 10:48:56 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		NEO,
I'm not making my dive brakes functional. They're in the fixed position. I know it would be really neat but I didn't want the extra complexity and extra servos. On my earlier Dauntless I used just the flaps and no upper dive brakes and it worked fine.

If I did do upper dive brakes I would definitely hide the control horns. On the Ziroli plans he shows Robart gear door type hinges, I think. You could glue in 1/8 ply bases for the horns and use short sheet-metal screws to attach the horns. Put the screws in, take the screws out, put a drop of thin CA in the holes and put the screws back in. The horns will not come loose. I've attached control horns that way many times with no problems. If any of the screw pops through the top you can file it off.

Are you going to the MAPS show on Saturday? It looks like the Dauntless is still going to be there. There's supposed to be a P38 there too, which I've never seen fly before.

Jim

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       Post #: 133

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/19/2003 10:55:11 PM   
NE0



Posts: 1170
Joined: 7/30/2002
From: Newark, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Tmoth,

Thanks for the tips. I'm sure I'll work something out.

Yes I'm going Saturday. Show starts at 10AM, so I'll probably head out around 7AM to be there when the doors open. I figure about 2-1/2 to 3 hour drive for me. I'll probably bee-line to the SBD as soon as I get there... We gotta hook up if we can!

Neo

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       Post #: 134

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/19/2003 11:29:18 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Yeah, I'll be on the lookout for ya. I'll follow the trail of drool around the SBD.

Jim

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       Post #: 135

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 6/19/2003 11:42:18 PM   
NE0



Posts: 1170
Joined: 7/30/2002
From: Newark, OH, USA
Status: offline 		CYA THERE!

Neo

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       Post #: 136

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 7/25/2003 6:05:13 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Finally got to the painting stage. All latex housepaint. I used a small gravity feed spraygun for large areas and an Iwata Eclipse airbrush for tighter areas and weathering effects.
Now I have to wait 2 weeks for the latex to cure before doing the clearcoat. Hopefully I'll be able to get a few test flights on this plane before the flying season is over.

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       Post #: 137

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 7/25/2003 7:04:18 PM   
Tempest-RCU



Posts: 180
Joined: 6/2/2002
From: Gaithersburg, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Beautiful job! I know there have been several threads on the use of Latex paint, but do you have any pearls of wisdom regarding using house paint (i.e., thinning ratios, etc.).

Paul

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       Post #: 138

Ziroli Dauntless Project - 7/25/2003 8:18:34 PM   
Tmoth4



Posts: 1358
Joined: 3/14/2002
From: Brecksville, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Tempest,
Thanks for the compliment. It's hard to say about mixing ratios. Some colors need to be thinned more than others. I thin them enough to go through the gun or airbrush without spitting or clogging. The latex has to be thinned quite a bit to go through the airbrush. The latex will build up on the needle tip so I keep a jar of watered-down Mr. Clean and a small stiff brush to dab at the needle tip to get the buildup off. Every once and a while I'll run some of the Mr. Clean solution through to clear everything out if needed. If the paint gets a chance to dry too much it won't come off with the Mr. Clean and I have to use laquer thinner to clean up everything.

Jim

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