RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide  
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RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 3/18/2008 4:43:55 PM   
meester lewis


 

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Joined: 2/18/2008
From: blacklick, OH, USA
Status: offline
Hey I had a similar concern with Steve's website, but now he's back, and when he says he'll get it done,he gets it done! All the products and service i've received from him have been top notch. Have you considered the recharge kit? I just got one,and it includes the 2100nimh batteries,the charger,and all wiring harnesses to charge both the transmitter and the receiver! The price is right at 59 bucks. I think it would be about the same price if you went out and got the pieces yourself,but the zebra radio uses a different connector than other hitec radios. Anyway i'm rambling!
quote:

ORIGINAL: gpinto

I guess i just hit the site at the wrong time, between updates. The price structure and offerings has changed. Now they offer the original model ("Riginal" for $159, and added a new model ("Choice" for $229. The choice comes with the Hitech electronics and the sheet shield installed.

I just placed the order ("Choice" and cannot wait to get her in my hands.

Gui


(in reply to gpinto)
       Post #: 51

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/4/2008 4:20:14 PM   
nodoog


 

Posts: 16
Joined: 5/4/2008
From: Winter Park, FL, USA
Status: offline
Excellent post, TC! I concur that the tips in Steve Lang's club membership pretty much cover tuneup for the NirvanaII.

I just purchased the "Choice" (blue boat) model along with the upgrade to the radio gear. Worth every penny in my opinion.

Here's another tip: Worrying about the warning from Steve about the rubber O rings weakening because of the sunlight and heat, I went to a store which sells just about everything, including the same size O rings, though they are just a tad skinnier than the one that come with the Nirvana. The important thing is that they must be very snug on the boom. I then gave them a double dose (spray) of Armor All (low gloss) which normally I use on my car. This product is excellent for preserving rubber and preventing it hardening or drying out and becoming brittle. Too soon to report that it is a permanent solution to the problem, but I like the advantage of quickly changing sail shape.

I know Steve promotes winding string around the booms and using that system, so I always have that to fall back on if the Armor All fails me.

In order to cut down on sheet wear, I also purchased tiny eyelets which exactly fit the holes in the booms where the sheets must go through before inserting into adjustment holes. One eyelet on top and one on bottom. I even found eyelets that will fit the hole on the starboard side of the electrical box wall where the sheets go into the box. I plan on re-rigging the boat entirely with 80# braided fishing line and will put those eyelets in at that time.

I have only one problem at one of the three ponds at the retirement center where I live: one beautiful pond is congested with weeds, especially out about 10 yards from shore. Out in the middle, not so bad. But, I'm worried that I get my boat out in the middle and it picks up so many weeds I would have to go swimming to retrieve it. I'm thinking of building an electric tug or the like with a hook on the aft end to grab my Nirvana's fore stay. Another alternative is to hook up a weighted treble hook (cut off the barbs!) and then casting for the boat. Scared I would damage the boat, though.

Lastly, does anyone have any great ideas for building marks, or buoys, which could be tossed out for practicing racing? Thus far, I'm the only guy here with a sailboat but I do need some racing experience. The marks would need some sort of anchoring method to keep them in place, an attached line to retrieve them, and the retreiving line back to shore probably would have to be monofiliment fishing line so it would sink and not get in the way as we round the marks. Any suggestions?

Bill
Winter Park, Fl
wecline@cfl.rr.com

(in reply to Templus_Catticus)
       Post #: 52

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/4/2008 8:19:21 PM   
nodoog


 

Posts: 16
Joined: 5/4/2008
From: Winter Park, FL, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Templus_Catticus


I have rigged and adjustable jib pivot with O-ring connector to the jib boom so that I can slide her back in light winds to move the boats center of effort more astern.

In medium to heavy winds do the opposite to varying degrees. Ex: In 10-15mph winds I leave hardly any slack in the sails...pull the outhauls back near the end of the boom.

Hope this helps and good sailing. ~TC




TC: Could you post a photo showing your new adjustable jib pivot? Not clear to me what you are doing with the O-ring.

Thanks. Bill

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       Post #: 53

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/4/2008 11:22:06 PM   
Zeta 7


 

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Joined: 3/4/2005
From: Clearwater, FL, USA
Status: offline
Nodoog, curious as to what lake in Winter Park you are sailing in? I grew up in that area. Sounds like Winter Park Towers maybe.

(in reply to nodoog)
       Post #: 54

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/5/2008 12:15:33 AM   
nodoog


 

Posts: 16
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From: Winter Park, FL, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Zeta 7

Nodoog, curious as to what lake in Winter Park you are sailing in? I grew up in that area. Sounds like Winter Park Towers maybe.



No, not the Towers. The Mayflower, off Aloma Ave, a few blocks East of Lakemont. We have three beautiful ponds here and I can sail in each of them. However, the one pond I really wish to sail is the one filled with weeds to the top of the water and I'm simply afraid my boat might get stuck out there. The Mayflower has been here since about 18 years and really is a wonderful home. My wife and I moved here from Maaitland about two years ago.

Bill
Winter Park, FL

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       Post #: 55

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/5/2008 2:08:48 AM   
jaelon


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 8/1/2007
From: , AR, USA
Status: online

quote:

ORIGINAL: nodoog
...
I'm thinking of building an electric tug or the like with a hook on the aft end to grab my Nirvana's fore stay. Another alternative is to hook up a weighted treble hook (cut off the barbs!) and then casting for the boat. Scared I would damage the boat, though.
Lastly, does anyone have any great ideas for building marks, or buoys, which could be tossed out for practicing racing?
...

Here's a link I saved awhile back.
http://www.vac-u-boat.com/Towing_Recovery.htm

(in reply to nodoog)
       Post #: 56

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/5/2008 2:36:37 AM   
jaelon


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 8/1/2007
From: , AR, USA
Status: online

quote:

ORIGINAL: nodoog
...
TC: Could you post a photo showing your new adjustable jib pivot? Not clear to me what you are doing with the O-ring.

If you don't hear from TC, here's a pic of a large O-ring I found in my tool box for a jib pivot.


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RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/5/2008 2:41:30 AM   
hiljoball


 

Posts: 54
Joined: 3/11/2008
From: Parksville, BC, CANADA
Status: offline
quote:



Lastly, does anyone have any great ideas for building marks, or buoys, which could be tossed out for practicing racing? Thus far, I'm the only guy here with a sailboat but I do need some racing experience. The marks would need some sort of anchoring method to keep them in place, an attached line to retrieve them, and the retreiving line back to shore probably would have to be monofiliment fishing line so it would sink and not get in the way as we round the marks. Any suggestions?



To make a retrievable throwing mark. ( I can throw one of these about 20 to 30 feet from shore)

parts for 1 mark
1 bleach or detergent jug (with scew top and moulded handle)
40 feet of line ( nylon washing line or braid camping line works - fishing line is too thin and would tangle, polly line will work but wants to float and may need a heavier sinker)
1 heavy bolt or fishing weight
1 small fishing weight (2 oz)
1 winding handle
1 8 inch nail (ground spike)

Tie a jug to the end of the line. Tie a heavy weight at water depth plus about an extra foot to two. Tie a light fishing weight on the line (about half of the throwing distance - this is the line sinker). Tie a handle to the bitter end and to the spike.

Throw the heavy weight and bottle out as far as you can. Anchor the bitter end with the spike. To retieve, coil the line around the handle as you pull in the mark.

Make three or four (triangle plus stating gate).

(Note I changed the instructions to tie the jug to the line end. . sorry for the error)


< Message edited by hiljoball -- 5/5/2008 3:35:15 PM >


_____________________________

John - IOM CAN 229
Summer Vancouver Island, BC: winter, Yuma, AZ

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       Post #: 58

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/5/2008 3:42:57 PM   
nodoog


 

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Joined: 5/4/2008
From: Winter Park, FL, USA
Status: offline
Jaelon,

Looks good but you can't really move the pivot point much can you, except forward? Both the wire forestay and the string forward of your O-ring would prevent moving the pivot point aft. But then, I really don't know why you replaced the original hook and line that came with the boat. BTW, I found some O-rings the same as in your photo. They are kind of massive, so I cut them through the middle recessed track and got two for one that way.

Please let me know if your jib pivot is adjustable. Probably too short to use a bowsie in there.

Bill

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       Post #: 59

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/5/2008 4:54:58 PM   
nodoog


 

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From: Winter Park, FL, USA
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Thank you, John. Very useful. My only problem will be that I have a large screw holding my right shoulder together and I now throw like a girl. But I will certainly give it a try.

Bill

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       Post #: 60

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/5/2008 5:39:29 PM   
jaelon


 

Posts: 10
Joined: 8/1/2007
From: , AR, USA
Status: online

quote:

ORIGINAL: nodoog

Jaelon,

Looks good but you can't really move the pivot point much can you, except forward? Both the wire forestay and the string forward of your O-ring would prevent moving the pivot point aft. But then, I really don't know why you replaced the original hook and line that came with the boat. BTW, I found some O-rings the same as in your photo. They are kind of massive, so I cut them through the middle recessed track and got two for one that way.

Please let me know if your jib pivot is adjustable. Probably too short to use a bowsie in there.

Bill

The O-ring can be moved(slid) to different positions along the boom forward or back to adjust the boom pivot point. Adjusting the bowsie for the foresail wire may also be needed when moving the O-ring. I never really experimented enough with pivot point changes to see if it did any good, but it's simple to install...

(in reply to nodoog)
       Post #: 61

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/6/2008 12:43:14 AM   
hiljoball


 

Posts: 54
Joined: 3/11/2008
From: Parksville, BC, CANADA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: nodoog

Thank you, John. Very useful. My only problem will be that I have a large screw holding my right shoulder together and I now throw like a girl. But I will certainly give it a try.

Bill

You can throw the weight and mark by using a slingshot technique. Just whip the weight around and release. . .!

_____________________________

John - IOM CAN 229
Summer Vancouver Island, BC: winter, Yuma, AZ

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       Post #: 62

RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 5/6/2008 6:25:05 AM   
gpinto


 

Posts: 3
Joined: 3/5/2008
From: Walnut Creek, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:


The O-ring can be moved(slid) to different positions along the boom forward or back to adjust the boom pivot point. Adjusting the bowsie for the foresail wire may also be needed when moving the O-ring. I never really experimented enough with pivot point changes to see if it did any good, but it's simple to install...


I have not played with moving the jib pivot yet, but I found that I had to reduce the length of my forestay (above the jib) in order for the bowsie to have enough room to move and give tension to the forestay.

In the original position, I'd move all the way up, and it'd touch the ring through where the forestay runs (above the jib) and there was not enough tension (forestay and jib pivot line). By moving the bowsie down, I was able to give enough tension to my forestay. I think, I'll move it down once more it now has enough tension, but is still touching the ring. If i move down, I can give it that extra tension if needed.

(in reply to jaelon)
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RE: nirvana II tips and tuning guide - 6/1/2008 11:04:55 PM   
alexrobust


 

Posts: 2
Joined: 6/1/2008
From: Elizabeth, NJ, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: dandelave

I lost my switch a couple of timesdue to water getting in it. I sail in saltwater and that is really bad for electronics. I am still trying to figure out the best thng to do for that. One of my thoughts is you have a magnetic reed switch that can be turned on when a magnet is removed and off when the magnet is present. Then seal off the top with something that adheres to the top under the tupperware like lid. For now I am trying a toggle switch with a screw on rubber cover to keep the water out. The other thing you could do is treat the switch with some dielectric oil or grease. It is a silicone based oil that repels water.

To seal the lid a bit better take some vinyl electrical tape and run it on the out side of the lip where the top is supposed to seal on. Try just one layer I think you will get a very tight seal.

Later,
Dan


I threw away switch , cut off ribs and shifted cradle with batteries toward star board and installed two reed switches and low voltage latching relay (switches @ relay are imbaded into plastic boxes and sealed by silicon). So I apply magnit for 1 sec on start board to turn servos and reciver on and to port to turn off (sinse it is latching relay it works only for 1 sec and consumes less then 40 mA and
stays in set or reset condition with out power consumtion untill it will be changed) It works!!!

PS
Relay and Swithces cost around $11 without shipping and handling. I bought them from www.mouser.com

RELAY: 769-TK1-L2-5V
MFG PN: TK-L2-5V
PANASONIC ELECTRIC WORKS SIGNAL RELAYS

SWITCHES: 816-RI80GP0515
MFG PN: RI-80GP0515
ULTA MICRO REED
GOTO TECHNOLOGY DRY REED SWITCHES


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