RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!  
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RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/15/2007 7:16:26 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		If I really wanted to have no doubt that I could cut a servo opening and make it work There's no need for any of that though. The inside decking already has the opening for the rudder servo and the cable openings are in the aft fuselage under the covering. Did I mention that the covering appears to be Ultracoat and is VERY red? Bottoms of all the wing panels are white.

The cowl is proportionally a lot lighter than the one on the bigger Suk. Also fits better. It fits "end on" to the fuselage with no overlap which makes for a very clean look to the fuselage. I'll do some more pics in the morning covering the cowl attachment and some holes inside the fuselage intended for those that use those long funny tubular things for a muffler.

The 3mm-53 fits completely inside the cowl. I haven't checked the clearance for the plug and cap yet but will get to that as well tomorrow.

_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to mstroh3961)
       Post #: 26

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/15/2007 3:28:49 PM   
rctom



Posts: 5038
Joined: 5/8/2002
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas), TX, USA
Status: offline 		Pat, I'm sorry about not sending the manual, it's a work in progress but I could have sent it and saved you a little time.

I have some good news/bad news on the cowl ring.

The good news is the design was changed and should be a few ounces lighter and more durable. That 4 piece angled cowl ring looks good but is a little heavy and very hard to build.

So the bad news is those hooks on the bottom have been eliminated and the cowl mount us almost like the 102" Sukhoi. It's lighter, stronger because it's one piece, the lower attaching screws go in from the rear through tabs thet protrude slightly into the tunnel.

I also worry about the threads in the aluminum gear. I am working on a way to attach some nuts with JB weld as a backup to the aluminum threads, just in case.

The gear does not attach to the fuse sides likethe bigger Sukhoi, so it does not need that little strap on the bottom.

TF

(in reply to mstroh3961)
       Post #: 27

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/15/2007 6:04:24 PM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		For those using a cannister ---here's a picture of two predrilled holes just above the fiberglass tunnel. They are not drilled through the tunnel itself so that will be up to you if you need them. Some will use mufflers and not want the through openings. In any case, they will provide a support location for your cans that do not require additional support. Nice touch and shows that the manufacturer is thinking about his customers.

No worries about the manual Tom. You know I wouldn't have used it anyway. It's my way of giving you a hard tie once in awhile

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_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to rctom)
       Post #: 28

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/15/2007 6:16:35 PM   
rctom



Posts: 5038
Joined: 5/8/2002
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas), TX, USA
Status: offline 		RTFM (read the manual). You do not need to drill anything to mount a canister.

I have found (tested on the first plane) that it's possible to glue a piece of silicone tubing into the fiberglass belly pan with black RTV. I then added more RTV to make a "bed" for the muffler.

This makes a perfect fit, is very secure, does not rattle or burn anything, costs almost nothing, and the fuselage is completely sealed off from the muffler. Use a tie wrap to hold the muffler in.

I have the silicone tubing in stock, and it comes with the canister/header kit.

TF

< Message edited by rctom -- 5/15/2007 6:26:25 PM >

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 29

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/15/2007 7:31:44 PM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks.

_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to rctom)
       Post #: 30

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/15/2007 7:43:32 PM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Engine Mounting

Tom sent me this note the other day that applies to mounting the 3mm engine. The same information is in the manual but I thought I would post it here as well. Mounting the 3mm-53 really is this easy in the Sukhoi.

I made the mounting template and marked the firewall last night so the engine is just about ready to go on. The firewall center line is in the middle of the firewall pass through cut out so you'll need to use a couple of pieces of masking tape to mark on. Too easy. I'll post some pics of the process a bit later.

Copy of note:

I mounted the 3mm 53 on the Sukhoi today.

You will need 1" standoffs to get about 1/4" clearance between the prop
and the cowl. I just cut 4 1" pieces of 3/4" hardwood dowel and
drilled
the center. I also put a washer between the engine and the dowel to
keep it from compressing.

Make a template of the engine with the 4 mounting lugs and a small
hole where the centerline of the crank is. You can find a little bump
in the center of the rear bearing carrier, that's the centerline.

Find the center of the firewall and make a mark 1/4" to the left
(*right when looking at the front).

Mount the template to that mark through the mark to the right of
centerline. Drill your holes.

It took me about 15 minutes. I love this engine, it's so easy to work
with.

The standard muffler will fit with plenty of room.

TF

Back to mounting the engine.

I used Tom's method of having wood dowels for stand offs. Using wood has been my way from the first 28% Extra I had a few years ago and it still works great. So off to the hardware store to obtain a 48" length of 3/4" poplar wood dowel. I think it cost me a grand total of about $4.00. You can buy and use aluminum standoffs if you really feel the need but the wood ones work as well or better with no weight penalty.

Tom's plane has 1/4" clearance between the prop and the cowl, but I wanted a little more for a slightly more scale appearence. So I elected to make 1-1/4" stand offs to obtain 1/2" prop to cowl clearance. The length of the engine bolts will be determined by the lengtrh of the standoff. I had some 10-32 x 3" bolts here that worked just fine. If you elect to go shorter or longer on the prop to cowl distance be sure to consider what you can easliy obtain for mounting bolts for the local hardware store. There's always Microfastener.com or "all thread" if you can't come up with something locally.

When hanging the 3mm-53 the template method works just great. Just don't get in a big hurry like I did and miss the engine's height relationship with the firewall when you mount the engine. This one is a touch below center. Won't make any difference but the spinner may look a little funny. That's what happens when you don't follow the directions to stand the plane on it's tail to "sight" the engine and leave it laying down to make it easier.... It took about 30 minutes but I went back and raised the engine 3/16" to center it correctly. Next time I'll do it right the first time The last picture is there as proof that I did indeed go back and fix the engine height

In any case, anyone remember where in the 3mm engine thread I noted that the carb tuning screws were in a good place? Here's the proof of that. You can't get an easier to adjust carb location. Servos for the choke (if you use a choke servo) and the throttle will be mounted on the right side of the plane. The engine box will be a good place for them when you see how the linkage runs. Tom sent me a picture of a choke servo installation so it's included here for those that go that route.

One pic here is to show the way the cowl fits the fuselage lines. Nice.

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< Message edited by Silversurfer -- 5/16/2007 4:53:15 AM >

_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 31

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/15/2007 10:35:19 PM   
Greg Cothern



Posts: 587
Joined: 1/7/2002
From: Seagoville, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Tom could you post PICs of the silicon tubing for the canister mount??? Thanks.

_____________________________

Some of the products I like
Smart-Fly Hangar 9 Wild Hare MVVS & DA Engine''s Futaba Radio Hitec Digital Servo''s

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 32

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/16/2007 1:38:58 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Greg,

Here's what Tom sent me earlier.

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_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to Greg Cothern)
       Post #: 33

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/16/2007 3:01:55 AM   
Greg Cothern



Posts: 587
Joined: 1/7/2002
From: Seagoville, TX, USA
Status: offline 		So run a zip tie through the silicone tubing then around the canister?? Wont the canister melt the zip tie???

_____________________________

Some of the products I like
Smart-Fly Hangar 9 Wild Hare MVVS & DA Engine''s Futaba Radio Hitec Digital Servo''s

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 34

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/16/2007 3:06:38 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I don't do cans so you'll have to direct that to Tom.

_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to Greg Cothern)
       Post #: 35

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/16/2007 3:16:25 AM   
Jake Ruddy



Posts: 2944
Joined: 5/22/2005
From: Newark, DE, USA
Status: offline 		Now I don't mean to nit pick... but looking at that throttle servo linkage install it looks to me like that is asking for trouble? What happens if that screw comes loose and then you have metal on metal vibration along with no throttle?

Maybe I am too cautious but that doesn't look like the best solution? I am sure it has loctite on it.. just wondering if that's how you do all your planes?

**disclaimer: I am asking for knowledge.. not to knock your work

(in reply to Tired Old Man)
       Post #: 36

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/16/2007 3:19:27 AM   
Jake Ruddy



Posts: 2944
Joined: 5/22/2005
From: Newark, DE, USA
Status: offline 		ps. you are right... that is very RED

(in reply to Jake Ruddy)
       Post #: 37

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!! - 5/16/2007 3:35:33 AM   
Tired Old Man


 

Posts: 11367
Joined: 2/25/2002
From: Central, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Now go back and read what's in there about that choke connection. That's not the throttle. Tom provided the pic of the choke servo. There's a nylon clevis on the end of the choke rod. The choke lever is metal, the throttle lever is plastic. Both are secured to the carb via set screws against a flat cut into the throttle/choke actuator rods.

Personally, the only place I'll use an EZ connector is on a foamie. EZ connectors and gas giants are a no-no and would not be acceptable at any IMAA meet.

_____________________________

If you can''''t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

(in reply to Jake Ruddy)