RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: vettedriver
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic >> WildHare R/C Support >> RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Page: <<   < prev  42 43 44 45 46 [47] 48 49 50 51   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: 5... - 6/10/2008 6:56:02 PM   
rctom



Posts: 5148
Joined: 5/8/2002
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas), TX, USA
Status: online 		AR 9000 is fine, same as JR 921 and I've used the 921 a lot, works fine.

The charge lead on the A123s that I sell has 3.3v on teh signal wire, if you plan to plug it into the receiver you should cut the signal wire, it could cause some kind of problem.

In that size plane you don't need the third connection into the receiver, 2 will be plenty.

TF

(in reply to Obee)
       Post #: 1151

RE: 5... - 6/10/2008 8:07:28 PM   
Obee


 

Posts: 26
Joined: 10/2/2006
From: shelton, WA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Tom,
the signal wires are cut on the input to the switches as you sent them. The A123s I got from you are just red / black out puts w Deans and a FMA charge lead.
The third connection I mentioned was is done via a Y connector I built up from deans and wire to take the unused leg of the ignition battery and a lead from the Rx battery into one of the twin switches on the RX side. I think you mentioned doing something similar in a post a while ago.

Thanks
Obee

(in reply to rctom)
       Post #: 1152

RE: 5... - 6/11/2008 5:59:56 AM   
fox6


 

Posts: 15
Joined: 4/2/2007
From: , OH, USA
Status: offline 		Fellas,
I am to the point of installing servos. I installed the choke servo outside the engine box with the electronic ignition module on top of the engine box. Installed the throttle servo on the lower deck in front of the fuel cell (just above the cannister mount. Rudder servo in the slot......... Question.........The servo slot in the aileron appear to be considerably longer than my servo. The rudder servo fit perfectly. What and where is the right mounting method? Will I have to glue in a piece of wood to mount aileron servo. Then, should it be mounted to the back or front of longer slot? For the elevator, which cutout do you use?

(in reply to Obee)
       Post #: 1153

RE: 5... - 6/11/2008 8:34:23 AM   
pupmeister



Posts: 148
Joined: 1/20/2003
From: MaitlandNSW, AUSTRALIA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: fox6

Fellas,
I am to the point of installing servos. I installed the choke servo outside the engine box with the electronic ignition module on top of the engine box. Installed the throttle servo on the lower deck in front of the fuel cell (just above the cannister mount. Rudder servo in the slot......... Question.........The servo slot in the aileron appear to be considerably longer than my servo. The rudder servo fit perfectly. What and where is the right mounting method? Will I have to glue in a piece of wood to mount aileron servo. Then, should it be mounted to the back or front of longer slot? For the elevator, which cutout do you use?


What servos are you using? I used HiTec 5985 for my elevators and ailerons and if I remember correctly the servos were quite a tight fit to get them in the socket. There is a photo earlier on in this thread (I can not remember where) that shows exactly which cutout you should use for the elevator servos.

Cheers
Pupmeister

(in reply to fox6)
       Post #: 1154

RE: ... - 6/11/2008 4:43:40 PM   
rctom



Posts: 5148
Joined: 5/8/2002
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas), TX, USA
Status: online 		Did you cut away the covering yet?

I get a lot of guys that don't understand there is a recess, the servo hole should be the right size for a standard servo.

TF

(in reply to pupmeister)
       Post #: 1155

RE: ... - 6/16/2008 4:08:59 AM   
Flyer Freq



Posts: 906
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Appleton, WI, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Guy's! Just wanted to throw up a few pics of my painted canopy. I'm pretty pleased with it!

Andy

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Lose not thy airspeed, lest the ground rise up and smite thee!
If you want to make God laugh, tell Him your plans

(in reply to rctom)
       Post #: 1156

RE: ... - 6/16/2008 1:42:57 PM   
blownalcohol



Posts: 22
Joined: 9/30/2004
From: , TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Flyer Freq

Hey Guy's! Just wanted to throw up a few pics of my painted canopy. I'm pretty pleased with it!

Andy


Andy, Your canopy looks great! I'm at that stage on mine and I think I will follow your lead. Did you attach it with screws only or with glue and screws? If you have a minute to describe your install that would be great!

Thanks,
Jeff

(in reply to Flyer Freq)
       Post #: 1157

RE: ... - 6/16/2008 6:02:23 PM   
Flyer Freq



Posts: 906
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Appleton, WI, USA
Status: offline 		The canopy is only held on with screws. I drilled the holes through the canopy and the cockpit wood. I had some Sullivan, flexible CF push rod material that I cut into 5/8" pieces. I re-drilled the holes in the cockpit to snugly fit the push rod material. I used CA to glue the CF pieces into the side rails, and Gorilla Glue to glue them into the foam/wood front deck material. This gives me a hole to screw into that will resist the screw backing out from vibration. I may add a couple more screws in the front deck, to make sure wind doesn't get under the canopy.

The paint I used for the canopy is Rustoleum for plastics. I used painters tape and Tamiya pin stripe tape for masking. I got real sharp paint lines!

I am tempted to put a pilot and control panel in the plane, but I think I will fight the urge.

I hope this helps!

Andy

_____________________________

Lose not thy airspeed, lest the ground rise up and smite thee!
If you want to make God laugh, tell Him your plans

(in reply to blownalcohol)
       Post #: 1158

RE: ... - 6/17/2008 8:43:31 PM   
blownalcohol



Posts: 22
Joined: 9/30/2004
From: , TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Flyer Freq

The canopy is only held on with screws. I drilled the holes through the canopy and the cockpit wood. I had some Sullivan, flexible CF push rod material that I cut into 5/8" pieces. I re-drilled the holes in the cockpit to snugly fit the push rod material. I used CA to glue the CF pieces into the side rails, and Gorilla Glue to glue them into the foam/wood front deck material. This gives me a hole to screw into that will resist the screw backing out from vibration. I may add a couple more screws in the front deck, to make sure wind doesn't get under the canopy.

The paint I used for the canopy is Rustoleum for plastics. I used painters tape and Tamiya pin stripe tape for masking. I got real sharp paint lines!

I am tempted to put a pilot and control panel in the plane, but I think I will fight the urge.

I hope this helps!

Andy


Thanks Andy!!!

I've got to get to work!

Jeff

(in reply to Flyer Freq)
       Post #: 1159

RE: ... - 6/18/2008 1:04:52 PM   
Flyer Freq



Posts: 906
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Appleton, WI, USA
Status: offline 		Have fun! It was worth the extra effort!

By the way, for painting, I masked the entire cockpit, installed the canopy, masked the canopy and painted. The cockpit gave the rigidity needed to properly mask the canopy.

_____________________________

Lose not thy airspeed, lest the ground rise up and smite thee!
If you want to make God laugh, tell Him your plans

(in reply to blownalcohol)
       Post #: 1160

RE: 50cc ... - 6/18/2008 5:16:18 PM   
fox6


 

Posts: 15
Joined: 4/2/2007
From: , OH, USA
Status: offline 		Just wanted to pass along something I found two days ago . I was in the process of putting my Honda graphics on the Suk and was trying to find some Rapid Tac. I found a blog from a guy who is in the graphics business who uses his own home brew. He had a buddy who was a chemist and together figured out the make up of Rapid Tac. Through trial and error they put together the right proportions. I have used this concoction as a wet application on half of the plane and am extremely pleased with the results. Here is the recipe:

1/2 CUP RUBBING ALCOHOL ($1.68 for 32oz)
3 1/2 CUPS OF WATER (free)
4 DROPS OF PALMOLIVE DISHWASHING DETERGENT ($1.89 small size)(no more, less is better)

From Lowes get a 32oz empty spray bottle ($1.38) and mix the above ingredients. This will work out to approx. 32oz of fluid. Use this to clean the surface then wet surface thoroughly before applying graphics. With this wet technique, you can move your graphics around until you get the right location (especially helpful on the big "Honda" wing graphic. Then use a mini rubber squeegee (obtained in a window film kit at Lowes or Home Depot) to remove water from underneath grahics. Wait 90 seconds to 2 minutes then spray the concoction on the graphics cover sheet. Use your hand and lightly spread water over entire cover. Wait 10 seconds and slooooooowly remove cover sheet. You may have a few little bubbles after pulling cover sheet. Use your soft rubber squeegee remove these bubbles. This will give you professional results in less time without messing up graphics due to bad placement.

(in reply to roboto65)
       Post #: 1161

RE: ... - 6/18/2008 9:17:56 PM   
rctom



Posts: 5148
Joined: 5/8/2002
From: Flower Mound (near Dallas), TX, USA
Status: online 		Excellent report, do you object to me using this?

TF

(in reply to fox6)
       Post #: 1162

RE: ... - 6/18/2008 10:57:46 PM   
fox6


 

Posts: 15
Joined: 4/2/2007
From: , OH, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: rctom

Excellent report, do you object to me using this?

TF

Tom,

I would be my pleasure for once to be a contributor versus a taker of information. Please use it for whatever!!

< Message edited by fox6 -- 6/19/2008 3:58:36 PM >

(in reply to rctom)